Fibres And Fabrics Flashcards
(119 cards)
1
Q
Cotton properties
A
Strong Cool to wear Creases easily Easy to sew/handle Non-stretchy
2
Q
Cotton uses
A
T shirts
Denim
Bed sheets
Canvas
3
Q
Linen properties
A
Strong
Cool to wear
Creases easily
Easy to handle/sew
4
Q
Linen uses
A
Bed sheets
Suits
Upholstery
Tablecloth
5
Q
Wool properties
A
Strong
Insulator
Crease resistant
6
Q
Wool uses
A
Jumpers
Blankets
Insulation
Carpet
7
Q
Silk properties
A
Good handle
Good lustre
Crease resistant
Difficult to handle/sew
8
Q
Silk uses
A
Evening wear
Gowns
Ties
Bed sheets
9
Q
Polyester properties
A
Non-absorbent
Durable
Crease resistant
Easily metlts
10
Q
Polyester uses
A
Clothing
Wadding
Rope
Sails
11
Q
Nylon properties
A
Non-absorbent
Very strong
Durable
Abrasion resistant
12
Q
Nylon uses
A
Seat belts
Tents
Tights
13
Q
Acrylic properties
A
Water resistant
Quick drying
Strong
Good insulator
14
Q
Acrylic uses
A
Ski jacket
Outdoor furniture
15
Q
Viscose properties
A
Absorbent
Good insulator
Creases easily
Weak especially when wet
16
Q
Viscose uses
A
Table cloths
Sportsweat
17
Q
Elastane
A
Non-absorbent
Elastic
Quick drying
18
Q
Elastane uses
A
Swimwear
Jeans
Tights
Leggings
19
Q
Why do we mix/blend fibres
A
Benefits of properties from more than 1 fibre
20
Q
Polycotton benefits
A
Polyester- strength, durability, cheaper, stain/crease resistant
Cotton- drape, cool to wear, absorbency
21
Q
Cotton elastane
A
Cotton- drape, absorbency, cool to wear
Elastane- crease resistant, stretchy
22
Q
Acrylic wool
A
Acrylic- fast deying, strength, cheap
Wool- insulator, crease resistant, absorbency
23
Q
Two types/origins of natural fibres
A
Natural proteins (wool/silk/cashmere) Natural cellulose (cotton/linen/hemp/jute)
24
Q
Synthetic fibres from petrochemicals
A
Coal/oil —> hydrocarbon monomers —> polymer chains
Finite/unsustainable
25
Regenerated fibres
Natural polymers, plant based sources
| More sustainable
26
Technical textile
Altered polymerisation process, achieve a certain characteristic
Eg. Kevlar - parrallel, strong bonds
27
Cotton source
```
Cotton grown
Seed pod harvested
Ginning (circular saws separate seed from fibre)
Dried (prevent clumping)
Baled and shipped
Cleaned/bleached
Spun into yarn
```
28
Linen source
```
Stem of flax plant
Uprooted NOT cut
Retted (rot) away outside layer
Stems broken
Cleaned
Spun into yarn
```
29
Wool source
Sheep sheared
Grades (Eg coarser: insulation, finer: clothes)
Scoured (remove grease)
30
Silk source
```
Silkworms bred in captivity
Silkworm cocoons
Silk fibre forms
Boiled NOT cut
Pull silk fibre, wind onto bobbins
Cleaned/dried
```
31
Three types/scales of fibres
Staple
Filament
Micro
32
Staple fibre
Short
Crimped
Mesh well
Natural fibres
33
Filament fibre
Long
Smooth
Dont mesh well
Synthetic and silk
34
Microfibres
Drape
Breathability
Durability
Synthetic polymers
35
Woven fabric with an example
Warp (vertical/stronger) and weft (horizontal/weaker) yarns
| Cotton
36
Three types of weave
Plain
Twill
Satin
37
Plain weave
Versatile
One vert, one horiz
Eg. muslin
38
Twill weave
Diagonal pattern
Heavier
More durable
Eg. Denim/canvas
39
Satin weave
```
Weft woven under warp
Larger surface area —> shiny
Smooth, lustrous, good handle/drape
Weak
Snags/frays easily
```
40
Non woven examples and properties
```
Eg. Felt
Uses: surgical masks, wet wipes, craft uses
Short and crimped fibres
Mesh well
Bonded with oressure/heat/adhesive
Doesnt fray
Weak especially when wet
Bad environmental footprint
```
41
Two types of knitted fabrics
Weft
Continuous yarn, interlocking loops
Hand/machinery
Socks
Warp
Machinery
Sportswear
Doesnt unravel
42
Ecological imapct of natural cellulose
Intensive farming, meet demand
Excess water
Pesticides/fertilisers (kill wildlife, pollute water/air)
43
Ecological impact of natural protein fibres
Overgrazing
Deforestation
Insecticides- pollution
Methane
44
Ecological impact of synthetic fibres
Finite resource, crude oil, greenhouse gases
| Water pollution/contamination
45
Social/ethical textile issues
Poor working conditions
(Long hours/low pay/no safety equipment/no lighting/heating/air con)
Child labour
46
Life cycle natural textile vs synthetic
Natural- biodegradable, carbon dioxide, dyes/chems pollute
| Synthetic- very slow to biodegrade, toxins, greenhouse gases
47
Three levels of recycling textiles
Primary- pass on
Secondary- upcycle
Tertiary- broken down to original state, uses energy, not infinitely possible
Thermoplastic: cleaned, shredded, melted, reformed, spun
Natural: shredded, bleached, spun
48
Drill
Cotton
| Upholstery
49
Jersey
Cotton/wool/polyester
| Tshirts
50
Denim
Cotton/elastane
| Jeans
51
Voile
Silk/cotton
| Mosquito nets
52
Tweed
Wool
| Jackets
53
Gaderdine
Wool
| Suits
54
Felt
Wool/acrylic
| Craft
55
Broadcloth
Cotton
| Dresses
56
Sheeting
Cotton/polyester
| Bed sheets
57
Damask
Silk/cotton/polyester
| Napkins
58
Muslin
Cotton
| Sheer curtains
59
Satin
Silk/polyester
| Occassion dresses
60
Crepe
Silk/polyester/viscose
| Blouses
61
Velvet
Cotton/polyester/viscose
| Evening wear
62
Corduroy
Cotton/polyester
| Trousers
63
Four types of thread
Machine threads
Tacking thread
Embroidery thread
Monofilament
64
Machine thread
Strong
| Move smoothly through machine
65
Tacking thread
Strong
Thick
Hand sewing
66
Embroidery thread
Thick
Luxurious
Decorative work
67
Monofilament
Very strong
Usually clear
Invisible stitching
68
Fastenings and an example of use
```
Button (shirt)
Poppers (baby clothes)
Zips (cushions)
Velcro (shoes)
Hook and eye (bras)
Toggle (coats)
```
69
3 factors to comsider about thread
Weight
Strength
Texture
Appearance
70
3 factors to consider fastenings
Aesthtic
Function
Safety
71
3 structural components
Boning
Petersham
Interfacing
72
Boning
Metal/plastic strip
Reinforce seams
Give shape
Corsets
73
Petersham
Heavyweight ribbon
| Stiffen/reinforce button bands
74
Interfacing
Medium weight bonded fabric
| Stiffen collars/cuffs
75
Bias binding
Strip of fabric finish seam edge
76
Elastic
Various weights/widths
| Waist bands, underwear
77
Decorative components
Ribbon
Sequins
Beads
78
Cutting lines
Guide cutting
79
Fold lines
Symetrical doubled fabric pieces
80
Balance notches
Match pieces
| Increase accuracy
81
Darts/pleats/tucks/bust/hip placements
Lines brought together
82
Grain line
Directionnof straight grain
83
Adjustement lines
Lengthened/shortened
84
Dots
Placement of components (buttons)
85
Four types of cutting, properties and uses
Scissors: easy, cheap, bespoke
Roller blade: sharp, cheap, bespoke
Laser cutter: quick, expensive, complicated patterns (lace)
Band saw: requires training/equipment, efficient, industrial production
86
4 types of seam
Plain seam
French seam
Flat felled seam
Finishing seams (top stitching, biased binding, piping)
87
Plain seam
Low strength
Not enclosed/ visible edges
1 line of stitching
T shirts
88
French seams
Medium strength
Lingerie
Enclosed/hidden edges
2 lines of stitching
89
Flat felled seams
High strength
Jeans
Enclosed/hidden edges
2 lines of stitching
90
Pleats
Fold fabric back on itself
Narrows width
Adds shape/body
91
Gathers
Sew along edge
Thread ends pulled
Narrows width
Fullness
92
Darts
Improve shape/fit
Taper to a point
Bust/bodice
93
Clipping seam
Seam along curve
Little triangle cut ohts
Lie flatter
Neckholes/armholes
94
Boning
Structure
| Corsets
95
Interfacing
Non woven
Bonded
Sewn/ironed
Stiffens necklines/cuffs/collars
96
Interlining
Layer of fabric
| Insulation/structure
97
Lining
Lightweight fabric
| Comfort/aesthetics
98
Underlining
Beneath sheer fabric
| Opacity
99
Toiles
Test/adapt pattern
| Cotton/paper (cheap material)
100
Product testing
Small samples (tension/dyes)
Swtaches (abrasion/stain resistance/strength/weight
Stakeholder feedback/opinions
101
5 times to dye
Polymer- liquid solution, no fade/transfer
Fibre- raw fibre, consistency
Yarn- inconsistent, can create stripes/tartan
Piece- length of fabric, inconsistent
Garment- range of colours
102
Mechanical finishes (2)
Brushing- wire brush, soft, can weaken fabric
| Calendering- pressing, smooth
103
Chemical finishes (4)
Mercerising- swell, lustrous, absorb more dye
Crease resistant- resin, stiffens, dries faster
Flame resistant- durbale, high risk products
Bleaching- removes colour, consistency
104
Biological finishes (1)
Stone washes- denim, distressed, add stones to industrial washing machines
105
4 smart finishes
Thermochromic
Photochromic
Microencapsulation
Surface decoration
106
Thermochromic
Inks change colour acfording to temp
| Baby clothes
107
Photochromic
Changes according to natural light
| Summer clothing
108
Microencapsulation
Tiny capsules contqin fragrance/chemicals
| Repellents/ perfumed fabric
109
Surface decoration
Applique, embroidery, patchwork, quilting, laser etching
110
Rapid prototyping
Laser cutter + 3D printer
111
Digital manufacture
Digital fabric printing- Large inkjet printer
Sublimation- heat + pressure, crisp, washable
Laser cutting- 2D CAD, etch/cut, accurate
112
Interpretations of plans
Digital lay planning- software, decrease waste
CAD- evaluate prototypes
CAM- semi/fully automatic machines, increase consistency, decrease error
113
Scales of manufacture
One of/bespoke- inefficient, wedding dress, 100 garments
Batch- production line, seasonal lines, 10,000 garments
Mass- constant production, cheap, 100,000, t shirts
Just in time- quick response, little storage, little waste
114
Large scale production processes (6)
Band saw- templates, chainmail, skilled workers, efficient
Flatbed printing- conveyor, variety of patterns
Rotary screen printing- converyor, fast, continuous pattern
Industrial sewing machines- constant use, heavy duty
Automated presses- remove creases, efficient, heat and pressure
Steam dollies- press abstract shapes
115
Manufacturing specificiation (ppcc)
Details of product, pattern, components, construction
116
Quality control checks
```
Critical points
Ensure consistency, remove faults
Material (snags/patterns/holes/stains)
Components (size/colour/damage)
Seams (tolerance/oreintation/holes)
Construction (pockets/buttons/zips/sleeves/alignment)
```
117
Correcting faults
```
Name - misaligned button
Appearance - button/holes dont match
Cause - error in measurement
Effect - hem doesnt meet
Repair - unpick, resew
Action - change specification
Prevention - check specification
```
118
Why is quality control important
Good qaulity, good reputation, more sales
119
Tolerance/minimisng waste
Seam allowance/room for error
| Lay plans/pattern cutters
