hair coloring Flashcards
(39 cards)
contributing pigment
also known as undertone, refers to the varying degrees of warmth exposed during a permanent color or lightening process. Generally, when you lighten natural hair color, the darker the natural level, the more intense the contributing pigment.
cuticle
outermost layer; protects the interior cortex layer and contributes up to 20 percent of the overall strength of the hair; when damaged, color fade is problematic; non-oxidative haircolor deposits hair dye molecules only on this layer.
cortex
middle layer; gives hair strength and elasticity; contains the natural pigment called melanin that determines hair color; oxidative hair dye molecules are deposited here.
medulla
innermost layer; no scientific explanation of its role in hair or hair color
hair texture means
is the diameter of an individual hair strand. Small, medium, and large diameter hair strands translate into fine, medium, and coarse hair textures.
(primary colors) blue
is the strongest primary color and is the only cool primary color. In addition to coolness, blue can bring depth or darkness to any color.
(primary colors) red
is the medium primary color. Adding red to blue-based colors will make them appear lighter; adding red to yellow colors will make them appear darker.
(primary colors) yellow
is the weakest primary color. When you add yellow to other colors, the resulting color will look lighter and brighter.
Tone (tonality)
Tone, or tonality, refers to color balance. The tone answers the question of which color to use, based on the client’s desired results. These tones can be described as warm, cool, or neutra
warm tones
Warm tones reflect more light, making them look lighter than their actual level. These tones are gold, orange, red, and yellow.
cool tones
Cool tones absorb more light, making them look deeper than their actual level. These tones are blue, green, and violet. Some people describe cool tones as smoky or ash to the client.
base color
Base color is the predominant tone of a color.
intensity
strength or color
Dimensional haircolor
Dimensional haircolor can be achieved by contrasting darker and lighter shades or highlights.
aniline derivatives
Permanent haircolors contain uncolored dye precursors, which are very small and can easily penetrate the hair shaft. These dye precursors, called aniline derivatives
Metallic haircolor
also known as progressive haircolor, contains metallic salts that change hair color gradually. They treat the hair with a progressive buildup of haircolor, resulting in a dull, metallic appearance. Metallic hair dye tends to be flat, matte, with little reflection.
Conditioner fillers
recondition and equalize porosity on damaged hair. They condition, strengthen, help extend haircolor longevity, and make the haircolor formulation cover hair evenly from scalp to ends.
Color fillers
equalize porosity and deposit color molecules in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment. Regardless of why the hair needs to be filled before applying a haircolor, the goals are always to provide a layer of balanced contributing pigments that support the desired finished haircolor.
hydrogen peroxide
H
2
O
2
, is an oxidizing agent. When mixed with an oxidative haircolor, it supplies the necessary oxygen gas inside the cortex to develop the color molecules and change the natural hair color.
developers
have a pH between 2.5 and 4.5. Keep in mind that there are different forms of peroxide.
volume
The volume measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide.
20 volume
6% hydrogen peroxide
30 volume
9% hydrogen peroxide
