Hair Design Flashcards

(244 cards)

1
Q

Hair design is a temporary change in

A

Fo4m texture and direction that is achievable through wet and thermal design as well as long hair design techniques

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2
Q

Reasons to get hair design

A

Weekly service
special occasions
completion of another service

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3
Q

The two areas of hair design services are

A

Wet and thermal design

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4
Q

Hair design analysis includes

A

Levels of observation basic detail abstract

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5
Q

The two categories of surface texture are

A

Known as unactivated smooth, and activated rough

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6
Q

Tighter curl pattern added to increase layered forms create the illusion of

A

Shorter lengths

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7
Q

Rectangle shapes are usually used to move hair

A

Move in one direction

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8
Q

Curvature shapes used in hair design include

A

Oblong

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9
Q

The half circle is most often used to move hair

A

Half toward half away from the face

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10
Q

The temporary nature of hair design services provides clients with

A
Styling options
Flexibility 
Try new designs
Fun
Freedom to change without  chemical change
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11
Q

Wet design

A

Refers to area of hair designing in which the hair is manipulated into the desired shapes and movements while wet and then allowed to dry

Wet styling

Structured longer lasting

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12
Q

Thermal design

A

The technique of drying or designing hair by using a hand held dryer while simultaneously using your fingers a variety of brushes pressing comb and thermal irons

Thermal styling

Softer casual finish

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13
Q

Basic

A

Form/shape
Volume
Indentation

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14
Q

Detail

A

Texture

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15
Q

Abstract

A

Direction

Where hair moves in relation to face

Forward/toward face
Back/away
One side

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16
Q

Texture pattern

A
Straight 
Waves 
Curls
Spiral curls
Crimped
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17
Q

Inactivated surface texture

A

Straight

Flat iron & pressing comb

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18
Q

Activated surface texture

A
Waves
Air forming with brush
Curls
Rollers
Spiral curls
Curling iron
Crimped texture 
Crimping iron
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19
Q

Length reduction

A

Shrinkage factor that result from various size tools used in the same length hair

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20
Q

Texture speed

A

Activation

The dimension of the texture pattern
Ranges from slow to fast waves highly activated curls

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21
Q

Lage diameter tools on longer lengths

A

Produce large waves and are considered slow

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22
Q

Small diameter tools

A

Produce tighter curls considered fast

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23
Q

Direction within the design

A

Lines that can be straight curved or angled

Impression of motion

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24
Q

Hair design technique allow

A

Temporary alter shape
Texture
Direction of client sculpted form

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25
Solid form
Unactivated surface texture Perimeter weight line Addition of curls shifts weight area upward creating the illusion of a layered form
26
The tighter the curl pattern
The tighter the curl pattern the more expansive the form becomes
27
Graduated form
Combination of unactivated and activated texture | Tighter curl pattern produce wider silhouettes and emphasize the triangular shape of the graduated form
28
Increase layered form
Oval shape No discernible Weight Curls cause illusion of shorter lengths
29
Uniformly layered form
Activated | Round shape no weight
30
Combination forms
Smooth activated | Defy gravity
31
Straight shapes
Create straight directional movement either away from face or toward Rectangles Triangles
32
Rectangles
Hair moves in one direction
33
Triangles
Disperse outward from the narrow end of the triangle Or disperse from wide end toward the point
34
Curvature shapes
Create curved movement in the hair either in a clockwise or counterclockwise Circle Oblong
35
Circles
Subdivided into half or quarter circles Half circle shown here is set with rollers to move half the hair away from face and half towards Creates side fringe
36
Oblong
2 or more oblong that alternate directions create wave patterns Molded or set with rollers or pincurls
37
The type of comb that is used for distribution molding scaling and parting the hair is called
Fine tooth tail comb
38
Type of comb that is used to backcomb the hair separate curls and define texture
Wide tooth tail comb
39
Brush that allows the greatest airflow hair can be dried faster while directing them into the lines
Vent brush
40
Round brushes may have a core that is made out of
Wood metal or plastic
41
Tool used to relax a set backbrush or smooth the surface of the hair is
Cushion brush
42
Conical rollers are used within curvature shapes and create
Progression of diameters
43
Examples of thermal design tools
Flat irons Blow dryers Curling iron
44
Blow dryer attachment that spreads airflow gently over a large area
Is called a diffuser
45
Flat irons consist of 2 flat plates that include
Metal
46
The characteristics of styling products include
Viscosity Level of shine Level of hold/control
47
Molding comb
Distribute and mold hair Used for fingerwaves Wide spaces teeth distribute Fine spaced refine lines of distribution
48
Master sketcher comb
Used for backcombing and smooth surfaces | Used to detangle
49
Fine tooth tail comb
``` Drawing comb Used for distribution Molding Scaling Parting ``` Fine spaced teeth distribute hair smoothly
50
Wide tooth tail comb
``` Rake comb Used for backcombing Finishing techniques Create texture patterns Detangles Separate curls defines texture ```
51
Lifter comb
Teaser and lift comb Used for backcombing Details surface texture Lifts and adds volume
52
Brushes consists of
Brushes can consist of nylon or boar bristles
53
7 - 9- row brush
Air form smooth textures Creates directional emphasis Create volume Curved end texture
54
Vent brush
Greatest airflow so hair can be dried quickly | Directs hair into lines of the design
55
Round brushes
``` Create volume Curved end texture curls Available in different diameters Bristles are nylon or boar May have metal core retains heat Wood or plastic core ```
56
Cushion brush
``` Used to brush hair Relax Dry mold Back brush Smooth surface Soft padded base Type and density and length influence surface appearance ```
57
Rollers
Applied to wet or damp hair More structured finish Gripper type surfaces or metallic
58
Cylinder straight rollers
Create uniform curl formation across length width Used with straight shapes (rectangles, and triangle) Faster way to set hair using volume stand up pincurls
59
Conical cone shaped rollers
Consist of a progression of speed because of their wide and narrow ends Progression curl diameter Used in curvature shapes Circles oblong
60
Blow dryer and attachments
Used to aid form wet hair Concentrators Diffusers
61
Concentrators
Focus on airflow to a small area
62
Diffusers
Spread a gentle airflow over larger areas and are used for creating scrunched textures
63
Curling iron
Temporary curvilinear texture pattern | Marcel irons
64
Pressing combs
Used to apply heat and tension to temporarily straighten hair
65
Flat iron
Two plates Temporarily straightens hair Plates can be ceramic or metal
66
Crimping iron
Angular serrated plates | Create crimped zip zag pattern
67
Undulating iron
Two undulating curved irons | Creates s pattern
68
Hot comb/brush
Used to dry Smooth Curl Air waving
69
Hot rollers
Dry hair quickly | Add volume and texture
70
Self adhering rollers
Reinforce curl during or after blow dry | Add soft textural movement
71
Characteristics of styling products
Viscosity Level of shine Level of hold/control
72
Viscosity
Liquid to solids
73
Level of shine
Matte to high shine
74
Level of hold/ control
Light to super firm
75
Picks
Secure rollers in place ribbed surface
76
Double prong clips
Secure rollers smooth surface in place
77
Single prong clips
Secure pincurls
78
Wave styling clamp
Holds fingerwaves on place
79
Neck strip
Protects client from skin contact
80
Spatula
Used to remove product
81
Gel
``` Creates maximum control Support Structure Used for wet looming finishes Wet setting Molding Styling Firmer hold ```
82
Spray gel
Supports volume and movement Used for wet looking finishes Enhances and defines
83
Mousse
Supports volume and movement Used to define texture and patterns Foam consistency Contain conditioners
84
Cream lotions
Smooth and soften Control frizz Define curls Contains moisturizer
85
Oils/sebum
Control frizz | Smooth cuticle
86
Pomade
Creates sleek smooth finishes
87
Wax
Creates natural spiky rough textures
88
Paste
Adds styling control Texture definition Separation
89
Fiber
Adds styling control texture definition and separation
90
Putty
Creates chunky texture separation
91
Clay
Adds texture definition and support
92
Powders dust
Add volume hold and texture
93
Non aerosol hairspray
Holds finished design in place | Liquid dispensed through a pump
94
Aerosol spray
Holds in place
95
Pressing oil cream
Prepares and protects hair Helps prevent scorching and breakage Conditions Adds shine
96
Thermal protectant
Protects against heat styling Conditions Adds shine
97
Place where motion begins
A point of origin
98
Straight or curved lines that originate from a single point of origin and radiate outward in any direction like the spokes of a wheel
Radial distribution
99
Used to move the hair in equal proportions from a cente point if origin
Half circle
100
Second direction of bottom half of the oblong shapes moves toward
Concave end
101
Two or more alternating oblong create
S shape pattern
102
Used with a circle
Triangle shaped base
103
The size of curl will be determined
Diameter of tool or pincurl
104
Determines the amount of movement
Arc
105
The finishing procedure that reinforces the established lines of the design
Dry molding
106
Technique used to increase height and control form by creating a cushion or mesh at the base
Backcombing
107
Setting procedures that lead to predictable results
``` Distribute Mold Scale Part Apply ```
108
Distribution
The direction the hair is combed or dispersed over the curve of the head Begins from one of several points of origin
109
Point of origin
Place where the motion begins | Beginning of the movement within a shape or design
110
Mold
Shape | Designing we hair in straight or curved lines to create a pattern
111
Parallel distribution
Straight or curved lines Distributed from multiple points of origin Travel at an equal distance Curved parallel lines result from distributing hair in curved motion
112
Radial distribution
Straight or curved lines that originate from a single point of origin Radiate outward in any direction like spokes of a wheel Distributed and then curved
113
Hair wrapping
Setting pattern Smooth curvature finish Reflects curves of head
114
Scale
Section Carve out shapes in proper size and proportion to establish the direction and the lines of design Blueprint for design
115
Straight shapes
Create straight directional movement away from the face toward the face ``` Rectangles Triangles Trapezoid Diamond Kites ```
116
Rectangles
Parallel straight distribution
117
Triangle
Radial distribution Single point of origin Parallel distribution used within triangle
118
Trapezoid
Straight shapes includes two parallel and two non parallel Parallel distribution Not scaled used to blend
119
Diamond and kite
Combined to encompass larger area Back to back triangles Narrow to wide with radial distribution Wide to narrow Parellel distribution
120
Curvature shapes
Motion used to create curvature directions or waves Clockwise Counterclockwise Circles oblong
121
Circle
Closed curve Equal radii from point of origin Half circle used mostly
122
Half cicle
Moves hair in equal proportions from center of origin Straight radial lines single point of origin Curved radial lines molded to create half circle shape clockwise/counterclockwise Scaled according to size1
123
Expanded circle
Encompass larger area Same distribution R Subdivided radial and parallel distribution
124
Oval
Unequal radii from point of origin
125
Half oval
Move hair unequal proportion from off center ppint of origin Unequal radial lines produce fast to slow speeds unequal movements Shorter radial lines faster speeds Longer radial lines slower speeds Distributed in straight lines from off center
126
Expanded oval
Extension of half oval Encompass larger area Scolded according to area
127
Oblongs
Elongated curvature shape with parallel c lines Convex( close end) Concave (open) Multiple point of origin 1st and second direction 1st top half moves toward convex end 2nd bottom half moves toward concave end Two oblong shape alternate result in s shape pattern
128
Parting line
Parting are lines that subdivide shapes or sections to help distribute and control the hair
129
Parallel horizontal partings
Rectangle shaped bases | Triangle and trapezoid shaped bases
130
Rectangles shaped bases
Parallel horizontal parting used | Create rectangle shaped bases
131
Triangle and trapezoid shaped bases
Parallel horizontal parting used | Used withing triangle shape to create trapezoid bases
132
Radial parting
Triangle shaped bases | Trapezoid shaped bases
133
Triangle shaped bases trape shaped bases
Radial parting used Circle shape create triangled shaped vases in inner circle and trapezoid shaped bases in outer circle triangle shaped bases are created in an oval
134
Parallel diagonal partings
Rhomboid shaped base
135
Rhomboid shaped bases
Straight shapes with 2 set of parallel line no right angles Parallel diagonal 45 ° used to create rhomboid shaped bases with oblong
136
Components of a curl
Base Stem (arc) Circle
137
Base
Area between straight or curved oartings within a shape or section of hair which the roller thermal iron or round brush is placed
138
Stem(arc)
Hair between the scalp and the first turn of hair around the roller determines the amount of movement Longer stems create more movement Shorter stems create less movement and more base
139
Circle
The hair that is positioned around the roller Determines size of curl Diameter of tool you choose determines size of circle Closed Small circle strong wave fluffy effect Open circle wider wave pattern with uniform curls
140
Straight volume
Creates lift and fullness
141
Straight volume
Position of tool in relation to base will affect the lift or volume achieved as well as amount of base strength Base controls are same
142
Straight Base control
Size of the base in relation to diameter of tool and position of the tool in relation to base Affects volume lift fullness mass Closeness flatness Straight and curvature shapes
143
Base size
Width and length Width measured by diameter of tool Length measured by length of tool
144
Base width
Measured by diameter tool
145
Base length
Measured by length of tool
146
Most common base sizes
1 diameter 1x 1 1/2 diameters 1 1/2x 2 diameters 2x
147
Pincurls
Size of base is related to diameter of circle
148
Straight volume On base
``` Full base 1x 45° above the center rotation base Sits completely on base Maximum volume Maximum base strength ```
149
Straight volume Half off base
``` Half base 1x 90° from center of base Sits half off and half on from bottom parting Less volume Less base strength ```
150
Straight volume Off base
``` 1x 45° below center of base Tools sits completely off bottom parting Least volume Least base strength ```
151
Straighf volume Underdirected
``` 1 1/2x 90° center of the base Sits in the lower portion of the base Not below Reduced volume and base strength ```
152
Straight volume Overdirected
``` Volume base 1 1/2x 45° above center of base Sits in upper portion of base not on or above parting Exaggerated direction and volume Reduced base strength ```
153
Backcombing
``` French lacing Teasing Ratting Matting Ruffing Performed underneath Cushion created at the base expands the form and concept the bases for more structured Large tooth comb to blend creates detailed texture finishes with airy effect ```
154
Backbrush
Performed on top of strand light airy effect | Brush and Wide tooth tail comb
155
Straight indentation positions
On base Half off base Off base Underdirected
156
Straight volume tool positions
``` On base Half off base Off base Underdirected Overdirected ```
157
Straight indentation
Position of tool and size of base influence the amount of hollow or flatness achieved Strength of base and mobility of curl
158
Straight indentation on base
``` 1x 60° below center Sit completely within base Rolled upward Maximum base strength and volume ```
159
Straight indentation half off base
``` 1x 30° below center Sits half off half on base Rolled upward Medium base strength Allows more mobility ```
160
Straight indentation off base
``` 1x 0° below center Sits completely off its base Rolled upward Minimum base strength Maximum mobility ```
161
Straight indentation Underdirected
``` 1 1/2 x 45° below center Sits within the base glose to the bottom of the parting Rolled upward Medium base strength Strong flare ```
162
Base size and tool position determine
Determine amount of volume or indentation in hair design
163
Straight shapes
Cylindrical rollers are used
164
Rollers set in straight shapes
Achieve directional movement
165
Rollers are chosen
According to desired curl patterns repetition alternation progression or contrast
166
The smaller the roller
The curlier the effect
167
Why rollers instead of pin curls
1 roller sets the same amount of hair as 4 pincurls Setting time reduced Allows set hair with tension Results in firmer longer lasting set
168
Rectangles set
Achieve straight directional movement Used as fill in or blending For volume on sides Multiple points of origin Base control chosen according to desired effect Straight indentation used for flip effect near perimeter hairline Horizontal partings
169
Rectangle
Rollers are all same length Diameter determines base width Diameter varies to achieve progression speeds
170
Rectangle bricklay
Used on larger area | Various length rollers used stagged alternating patter of vase divisions to avoid splits
171
Triangle shapes
Used to achieve straight movement in any direction Progression of tool lengths is used to accommodate narrow to wide shape Bricklay pattern can used Horizontal partings
172
Triangle
Radiate upward from one point of origin | Texture movement radiates outward diminishes toward perimeter
173
Diamond kite
Back to back triangles Achieves maximum texture at widest area of shape Gradually tapers toward narrow points of shape
174
Trapezoid
Parallel distribution Used as a fill in when curvature shapes are used on sides Stagged or bricklay
175
Air forming volume or indentation
Position direction and continual motion of brush controls amount of volume and indentation achieved Volume = underneath Indentation = on top
176
Keeping bases consistent
Allows equal amount of hair in each pincurl | More consistent results
177
Pincurls in straight shapes
``` Used on straight permed or naturally curly hair Not recommended for tightly curled hair Temporary effects Specialized closeness Allow wide range of movement ```
178
Forming pincurls
Relies in dexterity to create clean smoothly wound curls without tools Smooth controls consistency
179
Pincurls are one of many ways
To temporarily change direction and texture of hair
180
Base shape for pincurls
Various shaped bases used | Avoids splits
181
Straight pincurl base shapes
Square/ rectangle | Triangle
182
Square/rectangle pin curl base
Used within square or rectangle shape
183
Triangle
Used within straight shapes along hairline | Alternates triangles yo avoid splits
184
Base control foe pincurls
``` Size of base in relation to size of circle Position of curl relative to base Effect length of stem Length determines movement Size of pincurl related to diameter ```
185
Straight volume pincurl base controls
On base Half of base Off base
186
Pincurl on base
``` No stem pincurl 1x Circle positioned on base Produces lift Strong curl effect Creates wave line ```
187
Pincurl half off base
Half stem pincurl 1x Half circle is positioned below base Equal degree of predetermined direction or volume
188
Pincurl off base
``` Full-time pincurl 1x Stem and circle are positioned below base Closeness and mobility Nape area or along hair line ```
189
Straight volume pincurls
Are large stand up pincurls that achieve a similar effect of hair wound around a roller Weaker volume Used within straight shapes create fullness and height
190
Transitional/semi stand up pincurls
Create a blend or transition from areas of volume to areas of closeness Not Stand up or flat
191
Curvature volume
Creates lift mass Base and strand are lifted Ends turn under
192
Curvature indentation
Create areas of hollowness and depression Strand is flat end turned upward Adds flare and interest
193
Curvature volume and indentation are set
Counterclockwise and clockwise
194
Three common shapes used
Circle oval and oblong
195
Curvature base control
Size of base in relation to the diameter of tool and position of tool in relation to base Effects volume or closeness
196
Base shapes used for curvature volume
Triangle Trapezoid Rhomboid
197
Base size includes
Width and length of base
198
Base width is measured
Diameter of tool
199
Base length is measured
Length of tool
200
Base size include
1x 1 1/2x and 2x
201
Large end of the roller is used to
Measure base size
202
Curvature volume positions
On base Underdirected Half off base Off base
203
Curvature volume on base
1x 45° above center Maximum volume
204
Curvature volume half off base
1x 90° from center Maximum volume
205
Curvature volume Underdirected
1 1/2x 90° from center Medium volume
206
Curvature volume off base
1x 45° below center Least volume
207
Curvature indentation tool position
Base controls are the same | Roller is positioned on top of hairstrand rolled upward toward base
208
Roller shaped used to set curvature shapes
Cone shaped
209
Cone shaped rollers
Progression of speeds Small end large end Create stronger curvature movements than cylindrical
210
Rollers within a half circle
Moves and directs the hair equally away and the toward face Equal radial lines Fringe area or sides Single center point of origin
211
Rollers within expanded circle
``` Extension of half circle Larger areas Equal radial lines Fringe area or sides create curved movements that extends to back Same distribution and molding rules Set using inner and outer technique ```
212
Rollers within a half oval
``` Positioned in front or sides Direct greater amount of hair off the face Unequal radial lines Only a portion is used Off-center point of origin Unequal length rollers Shorter rollers =fast speed Longer rollers = slow speed Positioned 1 diameter away from point of origin ```
213
Rollers within an expanded oval
``` Extension of half oval Larger areas Unequal radial lines On top or sides travels back Indirect technique Off center point of origin Each subsequent roller is established at the front bottom corner if each previous roller One diameter away from point of origin To close plartings are taken from original point of origin ```
214
Rollers within an oblong
Two or more oblong alternate directions Create a strong wave pattern Anywhere on head Diagonally within rhomboid shaped based When combines with indentation "flipped " effect achieve
215
Oblong distribution
1st direction toward convex end | 2nd direction toward concave end
216
Pincurls in curvature shapes
Wide range movement Not recommended for tightly curl hair Curved crescent shaped partings used Size of base and position determine volume and indentation
217
Pincurls in curvature shapes
Wide range movement Not recommended for tightly curl hair Curved crescent shaped partings used Size of base and position determine volume and indentation
218
Curvature shapes
Half circle Half oval Oblong
219
Base controls for curvature pincurls
,on base Half off base Off base
220
Three common types of curvature pincurls
Flat Volume Indentation
221
Flat pin curls
``` Carved Sculpturw curls Are used for closeness Hair doesn't travel any distance form base before stem No stem curl Base stem and circle are flat Begin at concave 2nd direction ```
222
Volume pincurls
``` Create fullness and height Positioned anywhere on head Base and stem are lifted away Circle turns under 1st direction Begin at convex ```
223
Indentation pincurls
Create hollow space and flare Base if flat and stem and circle lifted Followed by volume curls 2nd direction begin at concave
224
Fingerwaving
The art of shaping and defending the hair in graceful waves Creates s shape pattern Created by molding 2 complete alternating oblong that are joined and connected by a ridge
225
Oblong may be created
Clockwise or counterclockwise | Molded into a series of equal or Unequal curved lines
226
Oblong shapes are
Foundation of wave patterns
227
Concave
Open end lower half
228
Convex
Close end upper half
229
Each wave movement consists
Hollow recess area and a ridge high ledge
230
Pinching or pushing ridge
Creates overdirection of wave and is not recommended
231
Shadow waves
Low ridge fingerwaves
232
Skip waves
``` Variation of fingerwaves Composed of 2 alternating oblong and two pincurls Connected by a ridge First oblong molded second set Strong wave pattern Wide deep flowing waves Diagonally or vertically ```
233
Ridge curl
One oblong followed by a row of pincurls
234
What determines size of circle of a curl
Tool diameter
235
The driectionthe hair is combed or dispersed over the curve of the head is referred
Distributing
236
Manipulation of thermal iron when styling involves
Rolling the iron Quick clicking movement Opening and closing clamp
237
The hair type that generally requires lower temperature and less contact time when using and electric curling iron
Chemically altered hair requires lower temperature and less time
238
Which type of hair is the least difficult to press and requires no additional precautions
Medium hair
239
Fine hair
Treated gently | Less heat and pressure to avoid breakage
240
Medium hair
Least difficult to press | No precautions
241
Coarse
Resistant | Tolerate more heat
242
Texture character
Shape of texture pattern
243
Five wet setting provedires
Distribute mold scale part apply
244
Upper half of oblong shape
1st direction