Lecture 18: Lesbian Women's Fashion Flashcards
(42 cards)
What stereotype about lesbians is rooted in cultural prejudices?
That lesbians have poor fashion sense, tied to the idea of the mannish woman as unnatural and ugly.
Is lesbian style exclusively about masculine attire?
No, but the idea that lesbians dress like men persists in popular culture.
What shaped lesbian subjectivities in the early 20th century?
Butch-femme identities, which function as stylistic codes and gender markers.
Has there ever been just one type of lesbian style?
No, there has never been just one type.
What happened in the second half of the 20th century that influenced lesbian fashion?
Movements like sexual minorities, feminism, feminist studies, queer theories, post-feminism, and cyber/eco-feminism.
What major event in 1969 symbolized resistance?
The Stonewall riots.
Who were early cultural figures representing lesbian identities in cities like London and Paris?
Middle-class women, financially independent and active in literary/artistic circles.
Who was the ‘lionne’?
A precursor to the mannish lesbian in France, with aggressive temperament and love for novelty.
How did the lionne defy gender norms?
By engaging in male-coded activities like sports, smoking, and drinking.
What does “garconne” mean and symbolize?
Tomboy; it symbolized freedom and anti-conformism in 1920s France.
What was the international equivalent of the garconne?
The flapper.
What did flapper style represent?
Liberation from traditional gender constraints, not sexual preference.
What were key elements of the 1920s mannish style?
Tuxedos, cravats, monocles, cigars, and men’s formal dress.
Where was this style popularized?
Onstage by entertainers like Marlene Dietrich and Judy Garland.
What happened to lesbian style by the late 1920s?
The masculine style declined and more feminine looks emerged.
Where did self-fashioning lesbians create communities?
Paris, Berlin, and New York.
What were lesbian bars in the 1940s/50s known for?
Being essential meeting places and safe spaces.
What did the butch-femme roles organize?
Sexual identity and relationships in lesbian subculture.
Describe the butch and femme roles.
Butch: aggressive, pleasing her femme. Femme: passive, focused on own pleasure.
What were ki-kis and how were they treated?
Women with fluid gender identity, often ridiculed.
What did femmes wear in the 1940s and 50s?
Heels, dresses, blouses, makeup; followed straight fashion but with glamorous hair.
Did femme style change much across these decades?
No, it changed very little.
What did butches wear in the 1940s?
Starched white shirts, pants, short hair—usually just on weekends.
What changed for butches in the 1950s?
Some began wearing butch attire full-time, limiting job opportunities.
