midterm 2 pt. 2 Flashcards
(53 cards)
cucurbitaceae
very large and complicated family
includes summer squash, winter squash, cucumbers, pumpkins, gourds, watermelons, cantaloupe, honeydew melons, marrows …
worldwide this family is very important economically ; edibles and ornamentals
native to warmer regions of the world but several species can be grown here ; over a hundred cultivars can be grown here
warm season crops ; will not tolerate cold soils / freezing temperatures ; tender annuals
many MUST be started indoors and later transplanted to the garden when soil temperatures have warmed ; 15°C + measured at 10 cm depth
some have short growing season (cuc) and can be ‘direct seeded’ while others must be transplanted (melon) (long growing season) ; can transplant shorter growing season cultivars and extend growing season ; cost, expertize vs yield
ideally start 4 to 6 weeks before transplanting to garden ; often transplant to garden in early June ; depends on many factors ; don’t want plants too large when put into field ; shock
do not disturb roots when transplanting
cucurbitaceae 2
really benefit from floating row cover / tunnels / mulch and trickle irrigation
most are vines but can be bush plants ; many require a large space to grow
variation within flowering / pollination
most in family are monoecious - having separate male and female sexes on different flowers but on the same plant ; male flowers ; female flowers
not all flowers produce fruit ; first flowers are often male ; usually many more male flowers formed than female flowers
cross-pollinated ; benefit from bees in area – transfer pollen
some newer cucumber cultivars have a larger proportion of female to male flowers ; higher yield
in particular with cucumbers – new cultivars can be all-female / (90%+) are female ; gynoecious types / predominantly gynoecious ; pollen supplied by male flowers from a monoecious pollenizer which comes in same package of seed ; ‘cultivar blend’ ; pollenizer fruit edible ; pollenizer has both male and female flowers ; need male and female to set fruit
cucumbers can be parthenocarpic - have no seeds ; do not need pollen to set fruit ; all female flowers - all produce fruit ; non-fertilized fruit is seedless ; many are greenhouse cultivars ; $$$$ ; can get seedless field cuc cultivars
most commonly if parthenocarpic cucs are pollinated by bees, the resulting fruit will be seeded ; if growing parthenocarpic cucs in field, must isolate from other cucs ; some parthenocarpic cultivars are simply harvested when very young before seeds can form
cucurbitaceae 3
stored for a few days / many months
plant growth during hot weather can be VERY fast ; 20 - 30 cm / day ; fruit can enlarge very fast ; may need to harvest daily up to every third / fourth day for some types of crops
cucumber
grown worldwide ; very popular vegetable
slicing cucumber is most common garden type
skin can be thicker (need to peel) or ‘non-peel’ / ‘thin skin’ – just eat as is
can be ribbed or not ribbed ; can have spines or not
shape, width and length is extremely variable
pickling, field (slicer / garden), English / European / Greenhouse types ; specialty - Lemon, Armenian, Persian, Gherkin, many Asian types, African cucs, ….
cocktail / snacking (beit alpha) cucs – package of 5 or 6
full sun ; warm season ; soils 15C + ; late May / early June
well drained soil ; high organic matter content best ; tolerates most soils – sandy dry fast so need more moisture ; like compost
need moisture ; will be bitter if droughted especially when fruit forming
average fertility ; within row 30 cm ; between row 1 m
respond well to mulch and FRC
can direct seed ; early June ; mature in 50 days + ; can start as transplant 4 weeks early – no earlier / smaller plants
mostly vine cultivars - patio cultivars are very dwarf vines
patio types do not yield like vine types
respond well to trellis ; especially long cultivars ; no need to support fruit
rotate one year in four ; disease control
pickling types – shorter ; some will grow to be large (15 cm long ; 4 cm wide) but best to harvest when younger (10 cm long ; 2 cm wide) ; may require harvesting daily - grow fast under ideal conditions
first harvesting in mid July
Gherkin type (Cornichon) - specific cultivar ; ‘Parisian Pickling’ Cucumber ; ‘Paris pickling cuc’
any cuc can be pickled ; smaller and seedless better
cucumber harvest
better to harvest immature than over-mature ; may need to harvest daily
can used FRC in autumn to extend season
harvest in the morning ; highest turgor ; cool ASAP to remove field heat ; store at 5-10°C ; will store 2 + weeks ; the more immature - the shorter the storage (moisture loss) ; long slicers – shorter storage ; gh – very short storage (very thin skin)
If harvest when over-mature, rind will be thicker and can store for a few months ; can remove seeds and use flesh
field / slicers = most common type ; MANY cultivars
muskmelon
two categories; ribbed skin, smooth skin
ribbed skin = muskmelon ; technically cantaloupe is different
smooth = honeydew, crenshaw, casaba melon, Persian melon
many types of melons ; most are long season crops
muskmelon - sweet orange flesh ; musky aroma ; round to slightly oblong
immature fruit has smooth skin ; will develop a ribbing with maturity ; rough skin can be contaminated with salmonella ; always wash with water before cutting
treat like vine cucumber ; longer growing season
monoecious
need space (within row 30 cm ; between row 1.5 m)
thrive on heat ; good moisture ; average soil fertility ; full sun
choose cultivar carefully ; long growing season
start indoors 4-6 weeks early ; to garden early June ; warm soil ; respond well to mulch, FRC, trickle irrigation
use FRC in autumn to extend season in autumn ; best to be mature before picking
muskmelon harvest
melons = climacteric fruit = will ripen after picking, but may not mature properly (develop ultimate taste), will soften / ripen
often picked slightly immature (firm) so can be shipped ; will sweeten more if harvested mature on the vine ; BIG difference locally grown vs transported
should be left on plant as long as possible - will not produce ethylene and will not mature / ripen properly
http://www.fao.org/docrep/008/y4893e/y4893e04.htm - REALLY good website - storage & post harvest physiology
how to tell if ripe and ready to pick - non-stem end should be slightly soft, should smell musky, fruit may be starting to soften
skin turning yellow colour
http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/2011/7-29/melons.html
best stored at cool room temp (10°C) ; 15°C if picked slightly immature
once cut, can store in fridge (5°C) ;
buy from a local source – not shipped
can grow on trellis but fruit needs supporting
honeydew melon
C. melo inodorus ; round-oblong ; typically larger than muskmelons
smooth green / yellow rind ; green flesh ; sweet juicy flesh ; fairly thick flesh ; thin rind ; centre filed with seeds
treat same as muskmelons ; remove new flowers mid Aug ?
watermelon
Citrullus lanatus
native to southern Africa ; brought to the US with slaves
sweet, juicy red / yellow / orange flesh
leaves look different than other melons
long growing season ; start as transplants (4-6 weeks early) ; responds well to mulch / FRC and trickle irrigation ; THRIVES on heat ; check cultivar for length of growing season - some will not mature in this area
climacteric - will ripen, but may not develop ultimate flavour / sweetness
slow to grow / mature ; faster in hot temperatures
seedless / seeded cultivars ; seedless are hybrids (triploids) ; must have seeded cultivar present for pollen or will not get fruit ; don’t save seed
seedless often sweeter than seeded
rind can be solid colour (dark green, yellow) or stripped
fruit varies in size / weight - 2 kg to 10 kg + ; shorter growing season = smaller fruit
watermelon harvest
harvest when
fruit produces a hollow thump when tapped
tendril opposite the fruit is dry
fruit surface looses shine - becomes dull
harder to puncture rind with thumb nail
squash
informally divided into two categories:
summer squash - consumed when immature
- zucchini, scallop, straightneck, crookneck, …
winter squash - consumed when mature
- hubbard, buttercup, butternut, acorn, pumpkin, turk’s turban, spaghetti, marrow, ….
http://whatscookingamerica.net/squash.htm
bush types / vine types
vine types much more aggressive plants ; require more spacing than cuc ; cannot stake / trellis due to weight of fruit
within row 60 + cm ; between row 1- 2.5 m
summer squash
Zucchini, patty pan, scallop, crooknecks, straightnecks, …..
Cucurbita pepo ; mostly bush type
commonly consumed immature before rind hardens ; immature = short storage ; if allowed to mature, may store for months ; if allowed to mature, use differently in cooking
full sun
well drained soil ; high organic matter content best ; tolerates most soils
need moisture ; average fertility
most commonly direct seeded ; early June ; start harvesting early Aug ; can start as transplant 4 weeks early – no earlier ; extend harvest season
within row 45-90 cm ; between row 1 m
fruit can grow rapidly ; may need to harvest daily
four plants usually sufficient for a family ; will produce until killing frost
summer squash harvest
harvest in morning, store cool, use ASAP after harvesting – will loose moisture easily – especially when immature
cut or twist fruit to harvest ; damage very easy ; handle with care ; skin very thin and easily damaged – disease entry & dry out
immature summer squash usually do not store more than a week (or so) ; 10°C (cool room temperature) (loose moisture, soft rind)
winter squash
eaten when rind is hard ; mature ; harvest Sept ; store for several months / eaten in winter
mostly vine type - longer growing season therefore transplanted ; start indoors 4 weeks early (no earlier) ; can direct seed ; to garden early June – after risk of frost
large plants ; within row 60 + cm ; between row 1+ m
full sun ; need moisture ; 1 inch/week +
well drained soil ; high organic matter content best ; tolerates most soils – sandy dry fast so need to water more often
average fertility
generally, the larger the fruit, the smaller number of fruit harvested per plant
Cucurbita maxima - winter squash
VERY variable group of squash ; many cultivars
Boston marrow, buttercup, hubbard, Turk’s turban,
generally large fruit ; winter squash ; long storage
readily hybridize within cultivars
if save seed, need to isolate from all other squash / cultivars
Cucurbita moschata - butternut squash
VERY variable group of squash ; many cultivars
Butternut, calabaza, West Indian pumpkin, Cheese pumpkins, Golden cushaw, ….
generally medium fruit ; both winter and summer squash
readily hybridize within cultivars
if save seed, need to isolate from all other squash / cultivars
Cucurbita pepo - field pumpkin
VERY variable group of squash ; many cultivars ; acorn, crookneck, pumpkins, patty pan / scallop, straightnecks, vegetable marrows, zucchini, delicata, spaghetti, dumpling, ornamental gourds, ….
generally small to medium fruit ; both winter and summer squash
readily hybridize within cultivars
if save seed, need to isolate from all other squash / cultivars
winter squash harvest
winter squash harvested in late autumn when rind has hardened ; some will store for 8 + months (10°C, low RH)
BIG difference in taste / sweetness / texture - experiment - try each of them
average yield / unit area, tasty, easy to grow, require a lot of space
beets
Beta vulgaris ; beet, beetroot
Chenopodiaceae ; native Mediterranean, Europe
same as Swiss chard and sugar beets ; chard = silver beet
sugar beets have 15-20% sugar content ; ≈ 5 % + in beets ; some new hybrids 12% +
garden beets grown for edible root ; leaves are also edible ; thinnings are used as edible leaves
easy to grow ; annual, cool season, fairly short season veggie (50 - 55 days)
full sun, tolerates most soils (clays can compact and restrict root development) ; prefers sandy loam with high organic matter content ; neutral pH, average to good water, average soil fertility, good drainage essential
succession seed every two weeks to ensure tender beets all summer / autumn
beet seeding
seed mid May ; soil temp 10C + ; seeding into cold soil may result in seed stalks forming ; vernalization ; biennial crop in warmer areas
Other stresses may do the same
5 mm deep, scatter row, 30-45 cm between rows ; thin to 5-7.5 cm within row – eat thinnings ; thin before roots start to swell – less damage done when removing thinnings
germination is variable ; ‘seed’ is actually a multiple fruit ; can get a few plants per seed ; germinate over a period of time
sensitive to soil crusting and dry soil during germination
can grow in raised beds ; easy to modify soil with organic matter ; allow deeper penetration (cultivar specific)
often harvested when roots are about 5 – 7.5 cm wide, but can grow much larger
soil crusting? formation of a hard layer on soil surface usually following a heavy rain common on soil with high clay content prevents weak seedlings from emerging
add OM!
beet growth
LEAF HIGH FIBRE
ROOT HIGH SUGAR
ok if root pushes out of ground ; feeder roots are below ground ; no need to ‘hill’
harvest starting at 5 cm - tender young roots ; cut petioles at least 4 cm above the top of the root (prevent bleeding) ; do not cut the root at the bottom ; desiccate
will tolerate some autumn frost ; sweetens with cool autumn temps ; July / Aug planting for autumn harvest (succession seed)
use FRC to extend season in autumn
store at 0°C and high humidity ; will store for a couple of months at these conditions if the tops are removed ; if store drier, cover to prevent excess drying
not many problems ; beet leaf miner ; birds eat seedlings ; slugs & mice eat roots
if no roots formed but lots of leaves – excess fertility (N) ; over crowded
small, tough roots – excessively hot & dry, lack of fertility (slow growth) ; light coloured rings inside root caused by excessively dry soil (& heat) or stoppage of growth
yield – 150 pounds + / 100 foot of row
depends on size of root when harvested
sold as ‘beet bunch’ and beet ‘root’
Carrot
Daucus carota
a favourite garden veggie ; second in sweetness to beets
easy to grow, cool season annual veggie
good storage ; high yield per unit area
can eat right in the garden ; kids love them
various colours, sizes and shapes available
rich orange colour achieved with cooler temps ; 15-20C
full sun ; will tolerate clays but can restrict growth of the root and yield deformed roots (or roots push out of ground and get green shoulders) ; good water ; average fertility ; good drainage essential
soil should be dug deeply - allow root to penetrate deep in the soil – roots up to 30 cm long ; loamy soils ideal especially with high organic matter ; stone free
forked / bent roots caused by hard pan or obstructions or compact soil or drought or check in growth or flooding
do well in raised beds ; allow deeper penetration
carrot growth
treat like beet ; can succession seed - depending on cultivar
wide row, scatter seeds, 5 mm deep, rows 30 cm apart
weak seedlings ; crusted soil will prevent emergence - careful watering
how to seed shallow and thin when seeds are tiny? ; mix with sand or peat moss to increase volume - scatter over wide row ; keep somewhat moist to promote better germination
soil temp 10C + ; SLOW to germinate - 2-3 weeks ; warmer temp will speed up germination ; need to be kept fairly moist ; especially if using raised bed
thin to 2 cm + between plants , VERY time consuming and often difficult to do w/o damaging remaining seedlings ; cut with scissors
seedlings are not competitive with weeds ; hard to pull weeds out in a carrot patch - weak seedlings
if roots start to push out of ground, can hill to prevent shoulders from greening
harvest when roots are mature size ; dig rather than pull as roots may break
roots sweeten with cool temps ; more orange - more flavour