Module 7: Understanding Residential Construction – Mechanical Systems Flashcards
1
Q
Voltage
A
This is the potential energy of any electrical system, and it is measured in volts. Most houses are equipped
with a 240-volt system that provides 240 or 120 volts.
2
Q
Resistance
A
This is the tendency of any material (such as copper) to resist the flow of electricity, and it is measured
in ohms. Conductive materials are those with low resistance.
3
Q
Current:
A
: This is the rate at which electricity is flowing, and it is measured in a unit called ampere, simply known as
amp
4
Q
Watts
A
The power is measured in watts and is calculated by multiplying the voltage by the current
5
Q
Electrical service entrance cable (overhead or buried)
A
he electrical service entrance cable brings electrical
service to the property from the street. A typical house
has 240 volts brought in through an overhead cable or
buried wires from the street supply. The size of the
electrical service is largely determined by the diameter
of this cable.
Older electrical systems were 60 amp, while modern
ones will be 100 or 200 amp. 60amp systems may
have problems running modern appliances (such as
dryers, microwave ovens, computer systems, and so
on) because the amperage required to run the
6
Q
Electrical main disconnect
A
The electrical main disconnect is the first switch that
the electrical service entrance cable connects to. It is
used to shut off all power to the structure. Frequently,
the electrical main disconnect is incorporated into the
distribution panel. There are two types of distribution
panels. One contains fuses and the other contains
circuit breakers, but they both serve the same purpose
(and will be discussed later).
7
Q
Distribution panel
A
The distribution panel distributes electricity through
individual circuits to various parts of the house. A
circuit is an unbroken loop of conductive material
(such as copper wire) that allows electricity to flow
through. Each circuit will have one or more outlets
(such as wall outlets, light fixtures, and so on)
connected to it.
8
Q
Outlet
A
Electrical outlets are where electrical appliances
connect to the electrical power supply. The two types
of outlets are:
Ungrounded outlets: These older types of plugs
contain two slots of equal size and are not grounded.
Grounded outlets: Grounded means that the plugs
have an extra wire to send current to earth (or ground)
in the event of a power surge or other fault. Grounded
plugs became common after the 1960s.
9
Q
Ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI)
A
A ground fault circuit interrupter is a device that shuts
off the power to a circuit when a small amount of
current (as little as .005 amps) is leaking or flowing out
of the circuit. This could cause a harmful electric shock
to anyone standing nearby. The ground fault circuit
interrupter compares the electricity flowing from both
the wires. If the difference is more than .005 amps, the
system will be shut off.
These devices are normally used anywhere within
three feet of water to avoid electrocution. So, they are
often used in bathrooms and kitchens, and with
exterior outlets. They have a reset and a test button on
them.
10
Q
Circuit breakers and fuses
A
Circuit breakers and fuses are safety devices found in
the main distribution panel and are designed to
prevent an overload of the electrical system.
In a typical modern home, most of the circuits are
rated at 15 amp using wire that is able to safely supply
that level of electricity. If two appliances were plugged
into the same circuit (and combined, they drew more
than 15 amps), the fuse would blow, or the circuit
breaker would trip and cut off the electricity to that
circuit.
11
Q
Aluminum wiring
A
Aluminum wiring can present problems. For example,
aluminum is softer than copper and, when being
installed, it may be nicked or crushed by the installer.
This damaged wire will create local hot spots that can
lead to overheating.
Another problem is known as creeping, which is when
the aluminum wire creeps out from under the terminal
screws that hold the wire in place on the electrical
outlet. Each time an appliance is turned on, electricity
flows through and heats the wire; when the appliance
is turned off, the wire cools.
When heated, aluminum wire expands more than
copper, so the daily use of electricity in a home will
result in repeated expansion and contraction of the
wire. The creeping of the aluminum wire results in a
loose connection and overheating.
12
Q
Ungrounded outlets
A
Ungrounded outlets can cause several problems, such
as:
• Electrical fire – Without a ground wire, a problem
with an outlet could cause arcing (electricity
jumping between a loose wire and a terminal) or
sparks, which could result in a fire with nearby
combustible material.
• Risk of shock – A person operating electronics or
appliances plugged into an ungrounded outlet
runs the risk of receiving a shock if there is a
problem with the outlet.
• Damage to appliances – Faulty ungrounded
outlets can short out appliances and make them
useless
13
Q
Ungrounded outlets can cause several problems, such
as:
• Electrical fire – Without a ground wire, a problem
with an outlet could cause arcing (electricity
jumping between a loose wire and a terminal) or
sparks, which could result in a fire with nearby
combustible material.
• Risk of shock – A person operating electronics or
appliances plugged into an ungrounded outlet
runs the risk of receiving a shock if there is a
problem with the outlet.
• Damage to appliances – Faulty ungrounded
outlets can short out appliances and make them
useless
A
Knob-and-tube wiring has several problems:
• It cannot accept three-pronged appliances
because it has no ground wire.
• It poses a fire risk because it has no ground wire.
Therefore, there is no protection when a fault
occurs.
• As it ages, the insulation becomes brittle and may
come off if something is stuck against it.
• It poses a fire hazard when bare wire is near
combustible material.
• There is a very real danger of shock or
electrocution to anyone who comes into contact
with bare wire.
14
Q
Frequently blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers
A
If the fuses or circuit breakers in the distribution panel
are frequently blown or tripped, this is an indication
that something is wrong in the electrical system. This
can indicate:
• Overloading – a circuit is trying to draw more
current than it can handle. This can happen when
appliances with high amperage ratings are being
used on the same circuit.
• A short circuit – caused by the hot wire and
neutral wire in a circuit touching each other. They
could be the result of one or both wires coming
loose from a terminal.
• A ground fault – occurs when the hot wire and
ground wire come into contact. This could be the
result of one or both wires coming loose from a
terminal.
15
Q
Hot or charred electrical outlets
A
If electrical outlets are hot or charred, this is an
indication that there is a problem with the wiring in or
near the outlet. This could be caused by aluminum
wires creeping out from under the terminal screw
resulting in arcing
16
Q
Flickering/dimming lights
A
Flickering or dimming lights indicate a serious problem
with the wiring system, possibly caused by a heavy
load on the circuit (such as dining room lights dimming
as soon as the microwave is turned on). The wires may
be creeping out from under the terminal screws
resulting in a loose contact.
17
Q
Electrical shocks when plugging in appliances
A
Shocks from a faulty appliance is one of the five
common causes of an electrical shock. Faulty
appliances do not always channel electricity as well as
they used to. When an appliance has damaged
circuitry, frayed wiring, or broken cords, electrical
currents become unstable. When you plug one in, the
unstable electricity can ruin your appliance, as well as
shock you
18
Q
Light bulbs burn out quickly
A
There are many possible reasons why a light bulb
burns out quickly. The more common could be the
power supply voltage may be too high, bulbs may be
loose or connected improperly, excessive vibrations
may be causing the filament to break to name a view
19
Q
Too many extension cords in use
A
If there are a number of extension cords used in a
house, it is an indication that there are insufficient
outlets to meet the homeowner’s needs. Extension
cords are designed for temporary use, not as a
permanent solution.
20
Q
Benefits of solar panels
A
Solar panels are an excellent way to supplement a
conventional electricity service. Benefits include:
• A renewable energy source with minimal
environmental impact
• Low maintenance costs and lower utility bills
• Usability in areas without access to the energy
grid
21
Q
Financial incentives for using solar panels
A
here are also financial incentives for using solar
panels:
• Homeowners can install a net metering system to
produce their own clean renewable energy.
• During periods when excess energy is produced
that isn’t needed by the homeowner (such as
summer when there are longer periods of
sunlight), the excess energy can be fed back to
the consumer electrical grid. Credits will be
provided, which can be used to buy electricity
when needed (such as on cloudy days or during
the winter season with shorter periods of
daylight)
22
Q
Houses that aren’t suited for solar panels
A
Some houses may not suit solar panels, including:
• Houses that are surrounded by shade trees that
may not receive enough sunlight for effective
operation
• Houses with inadequate roof space
• Houses without enough south or southwest
facing roof space
• Houses with old roofs in need of continual repair
23
Q
Heating and Cooling Systems
A
the primary requirements of any heating system are:
• Size: Large enough to provide adequate heat on the coldest day
• Reliability: Reliable and safe
• Cost: Economical to install and operate
• Equal heating distribution: Capable of heating all parts of the home equally
24
Q
Capacity
A
Input capacity: This tells us how much fuel energy
is consumed for every hour of operation. It is
measured in British Thermal Units (BTU) per
hour. A BTU is the amount of heat required to
raise the temperature of one pound of water by
one Fahrenheit degree.
• Output capacity: The output capacity tells us how
much usable heating or cooling the unit provides
to a home. Any system will have inefficiencies in
it that lead to it turning less energy into heating.
For example, many furnaces take quite a lot of
energy to get them started without producing
any heat. Heat can also escape up the chimney.
25
Efficiency
The efficiency of a heating system takes the input
capacity and output capacity into account. Given as a
percentage, it tells us how efficiently a system actually
heats the home. If the input capacity and output
capacity of a system were the same, that would make
it 100% efficient. Most heating systems are
considerably less than 100% efficient as inevitably,
energy is lost somewhere
26
Efficiency ratings
Efficiency ratings tell us how well the energy put into a
heating system heats the home. It is based on the
Annual Fuel Utilization Rating (AFUE) rating, which
measures how much fuel is converted to heat in a
heating system.
If a heating system has an AFUE rating of 60%, then 40
cents of every dollar spent on heating are being
wasted.
27
Forced air
A forced-air central heating system is one which uses air
as its heat transfer medium. It relies on metal ductwork
and vents to distribute air, separate from the actual
heating and air conditioning systems. The supply duct
directs air from the central unit to the rooms that it is
designed to heat. The return duct carries air back to a
central air handler for reheating. A thermostat is used to
control the temperature in a forced air heating system.
Advantages:
• Can heat the house more quickly than radiant
systems
• Can use the same ductwork as air conditioning
systems
Disadvantages:
• Less energy-efficient than a steam or hot water
system due to heat being lost as it travels through
ductwork to different parts of the house
- May require more regular maintenance than radiant
systems
• Bad for people with allergies due to circulation of
allergens and dust, which become airborne and are
released from the vents
28
Steam
In a steam heating system, a boiler furnace heats water
by means of a gas or oil-fired burner and turns it into
steam. The steam travels through pipes to cast iron
radiators or convectors, which give off heat and warm
the room. As the steam cools, it condenses back into
water and returns to the boiler by gravity to be heated
again. Steam is rarely used in new construction.
Advantages:
• Quiet and provides consistent heat
• Good for people with allergies due to not involving
the movement of air
Disadvantages:
• Less energy-efficient than some systems due to
heat being lost as it travels through pipes to
different parts of the house
• Expensive to install
• Components often insulated with asbestos, which
have serious health and safety concerns
• Air conditioning unable to be added to the system
29
Hot water
A hot water system is a system that heats water and
distributes it throughout the house by way of piping to
cast iron radiators. Even though a boiler may be used
to heat the water, it is not actually boiled but heated to
approximately 71°C.
Common in older houses, hot water systems can use
gravity or force to circulate heated water through the
system. The system may have one pipe or two.
In a one-pipe system, the hot water passes through
each radiator, returns to the main, and mixes with the
hot water as it goes to the next radiator. The cooler
water returning reduces the temperature of the main
water.
The two-pipe system has a separate pipe for the return
of the cooler water from the radiator to the boiler.
Advantages:
• Quiet and provides even heat
• Doesn’t circulate allergens like a forced air
system does, which is good for people with
allergies and sensitive skin
Disadvantages:
• More expensive to install than forced air systems
• Can become blocked over time with rust and
mineral deposits
• Components often insulated with asbestos,
which have serious health and safety concerns
30
Electric.
Two main types of electric heating systems are found
in homes, baseboard resistance heater and radiant
heating cables or coils that are placed in the ceiling or
floor. This type of heating allows for a thermostat to
control each room’s temperature individually.
Advantages:
31
Radiant
Radiant heating systems supply heat directly to the
floor, or to panels in the wall or the ceiling of a house.
The systems depend on the transfer of heat directly
from the hot surface to objects in the room via
infrared radiation. Radiant heat warms the house by
circulating water through pipes embedded in the floor.
32
Ground source heat pumps
Aground-source heat pump or geothermal system
uses the earth, groundwater, or both as the source of
heating the winter and as the sink for heat removed
from the home in the summer. Liquid (usually
antifreeze) circulates through a loop under the ground.
The heat collected from the ground is distributed
through the house with an air handling system.
33
Air source heat pumps
An air-source heat pump is a system that transfers heat
from outside to inside a building, or vice versa. Air
source heat pumps work similarly to ground source
heat pumps, except that they extract heat from the air
rather than the ground and use it to heat the house.
The heat collected from the air is distributed through
the house with an air handling system. Their
advantages and disadvantages are similar to those of
ground source heat pumps.
Advantages:
• Environment-friendly
• Low maintenance once installed
• Can save money on heating bills
Disadvantages:
• Expensive to install
• Significant disruption during installation similar
to ground source heat pumps
34
Electric furnace
An electric furnace converts electricity to heat and as a
result does not need a heat exchanger, burner, or
chimney. These components are replaced by electric
heating elements sitting directly in the air stream. The
blower simply forces air across the heating elements
and the warmed air returns to the rooms via ductwork.
Advantages:
• Lower upfront costs than gas or oil furnace
systems
• Quiet
• Low maintenance
Disadvantages:
• More expensive to operate than gas or oil
furnace systems
• Takes longer to heat up the house than gas or oil
furnace systems
35
Gas furnace
A gas furnace burns natural gas, which heats up a heat
exchanger. Cold air passes through the heat exchanger
and is blown through the heat exchanger and into the
ductwork. Products of combustion are released
through the side of the house via an exhaust pipe.
There are four levels of efficiency for gas furnaces:
conventional, mid-efficiency, high-efficiency, and highefficiency pulse. As of 2010, all gas furnaces must be of
high efficiency. In areas where no gas is available,
propane is often used.
Advantages:
• Lower operation costs than electric or oil furnace
systems
• Heats up faster than electricity
• More energy-efficient than electric furnace
Disadvantages:
• Can be expensive to install
• Natural gas network not available in every area
• Emits low levels of carbon monoxide, which need
to be vented to the external environment
36
Oil furnace
Similar to gas furnaces, oil-fired furnaces have a
burner and combustion chamber, and emit exhaust
through a flue pipe in a chimney
Advantages:
• Last longer than gas furnaces
Easier to service than gas or electric furnaces
• Not dependent on pipeline infrastructure
Disadvantages:
• Large storage tank necessary
• Can take up prime space if located in the
basement
• Can cause environmental problems if buried in
the yard
• Less energy-efficient than gas furnace
• Fuel price higher than gas furnaces
• Generates more pollution than gas and requires
more cleaning and maintenance
• Tank replacement necessary every 10 years at a
cost of about $3,00
37
Gravity furnace
A gravity furnace (sometimes called an octopus
furnace) is found in older houses and is no longer
installed in new builds. They work similarly to a
conventional furnace except that there is no fan to pull
house air into the furnace, blow it through the burner,
and push it out through the air registers. It may be
fueled by either gas or oil.
Instead, the system works on gravity—on the principle
that hot air rises and cool air falls. Warm air rises
through the supply ducts and cool air settles back
through the return ducts to the furnace. As a result,
gravity furnaces are the least efficient form of furnace.
38
Boilers
Open boilers: Open boiler systems, which are no longer commonly used, use an expansion tank
located above the highest radiator in the structure. This tank allows space for water
to expand when water is heated and has an overflow pipe. Open systems use
gravity rather than a circulating pump to move the water.
Closed boilers: In closed boiler systems, there is water in the boiler, piping, and radiators. The
water is pressurized a few pounds higher than what is required to force it up to the
highest level within the structure. Closed systems typically have a circulating pump
to force the water through the system.
39
Central Air Conditioning Systems
Central air conditioning systems distribute cooled air throughout a structure. The basic function of any air
conditioning system is that a refrigerant is put under pressure by a compressor until it becomes liquid, which is
cooled by a condenser and then evaporated again. This evaporation process cools the air around it, which provides
a cooling effect. This cooled air is distributed throughout the structure via ductwork
40
Ductless Air Conditioners
Homeowners can also put individual air conditioning units in different rooms, each of which cools the room directly.
These units work on the same principles as central air conditioning systems, but do not distribute cooled air through
ductwork. Like a central system, they have an outdoor component containing a compressor, fan, and condenser
coils, and an indoor component that cools air by blowing it over an evaporator coil.
41
Clogged filters
All heating and cooling systems are dependent on an
intake of air to function correctly. Dirty or clogged
filters can restrict the flow of air and reduce the
effectiveness of a system and, if not cleaned or
replaced regularly, can lead to costly repairs. Another
problem can be ice developing on the evaporator coil
on the air conditioner.
42
Faulty thermostat
Thermostats can malfunction, leading to over-heating
or under-heating the house. If they are battery
powered, a low battery will affect their performance.
43
Cracked heat exchanger
A cracked heat exchanger can leak carbon monoxide,
which can be fatal, and soot, which is injurious to
health. It is important to schedule regular maintenance
to check for a cracked heat exchanger.
44
Undersized or broken fan in distribution system
If a fan is not large or powerful enough to distribute air
through a heating/cooling system or is broken in some
way, it can lead to poor or inefficient operation.
45
Leaking refrigerant
Leaking refrigerant will cause inefficient cooling, since
the refrigerant can no longer absorb as much heat
from the outside, causing warmer air to come from the
vents. It will also lead to elevated electricity bills due to
the need to turn the air conditioning up higher to
achieve the same effect.
46
Leaking refrigerant will cause inefficient cooling, since
the refrigerant can no longer absorb as much heat
from the outside, causing warmer air to come from the
vents. It will also lead to elevated electricity bills due to
the need to turn the air conditioning up higher to
achieve the same effect.
If there are holes in the ductwork or gaps where it
connects, this will reduce the efficiency of the system,
leading to higher energy bills. All ductwork should be
sealed, caulked, and free of holes. Leaking ducts also
suck up debris and distribute it throughout the house,
creating air quality problems and dust.
47
Leaks or drafts in the walls, windows, and doors of the house
The house itself must be sealed well and free of drafts
and leaks for heating and air conditioning to work
effectively and efficiently
48
Gas and Propane Fireplaces
A traditional wood-burning fireplace is generally viewed as more recreational than functional in that the warm air
that goes up the chimney typically represents more heat loss than the heat gained from the flames.
Gas and propane fireplaces consist of incombustible logs covering gas vents, and the fire itself burns behind glass
doors. They can provide the same recreational benefits as a wood fireplace but have several advantages over them:
• They are more energy-efficient.
• They draw air for combustion from outside, so they don’t use the heated air in the room.
• They don’t burn wood, so they don’t deplete forests.
• They can cost less to run as gas is often a cheaper fuel than wood.
• There are no ashes or soot to deal with either in the fireplace or the chimney.
• There is no annual chimney cleaning required.
• The direct vent will lose less heat than a chimney.
49
Venting and Gas/Propane Fireplaces
Another thing to consider about gas/propane fireplaces is insurance. While wood-burning fireplaces can increase
your home insurance premiums, most gas/propane fireplaces do not pose as much risk to an insurance company. In
some cases, replacing a wood-burning fireplace with a gas/propane one can reduce your home insurance
premiums.
50
Traditional wood fireplace
Wood-burning fireplaces surrounded by masonry may
be aesthetically pleasing with the direct view of flames.
However, they are very inefficient due to heat loss and
require regular cleaning and maintenance.
51
Zero clearance fireplace
Zero clearance fireplaces are pre-manufactured gas
fireplaces that can be placed directly within a couple of
inches of combustible materials, such as walls, wood,
or paneling. They can be used in tight spaces and have
no need for hearths. Some are often vented to the
outside rather than chimneys and so can be used to
add a fireplace to houses without a chimney.
Advantages:
• Typically, much more energy-efficient than
traditional wood fireplaces
• Can be placed in tight spaces
• Cheaper to install than traditional fireplaces
52
Wood stove
Wood stoves can be used to replace wood-burning
fireplaces. They consist of a closed metal firebox with a
glass window in the front. Paper or kindling is used to
start the fire, then fresh air enters the stove through
intake vents to help fuel the fire.
53
Gas stove
Gas stoves can also be used to replace wood-burning
fireplaces. They look similar to wood stoves, but are
fueled by gas.
Advantages:
• Don’t pose as much fire risk due to being
enclosed
• More energy-efficient than traditional fireplaces
and wood stoves
• Produce less harmful emissions than woodburning fireplaces or stoves
54
Fireplace insert
Fireplace inserts are inserted into an existing masonry
fireplace, just like a wood stove can be. They are a way
to make masonry fireplaces more efficient and can be
powered by electricity, gas, propane, wood, or pellets.
They consist of a firebox surrounded by a steel shell.
Advantages:
• More efficient than a traditional fireplace
because of the closed design
• Reduce harmful emissions
55
Pellet stove
These stoves use electricity to burn specially designed
pellets made from compressed sawdust and wood
shavings. The pellets are inserted into a hopper that
drops them into the burn pot area, producing a
constant flame. Their flame is not as large and pleasing
to look at as a traditional fire, and they can be costly to
install.
56
Chimney
The WETT inspection will inspect the given
components:
• Chimney and cap
• Chimney liner and flue tiles
• Smoke chamber
• Proper flue pipe installation and venting
• Overall condition of the woodstove, fireplace, and
its chimney
57
Fireplace
The WETT inspection of a fireplace covers:
• Dampers
• Firebox and firebricks/linings
• Hearth and floor protection
58
Clearances
The WETT inspection of fireplace clearances covers:
• Mantle and clearances to combustible walls and
ceilings
• Heat shield construction for reduced clearances
• Clearance to combustible exterior items
59
Requirements of WETT Inspections
A Wood Energy Technology Transfer (WETT) inspection includes a thorough inspection of all wood-burning
appliances, such as stoves and open fireplaces, by a certified WETT inspector. Wood-burning technologies can pose
a threat to the well-being and health of those in the home. A WETT specialty inspection is a requirement when
securing insurance
60
Minimum Clearances for Wood Stoves
For homeowners to obtain a home insurance policy, the home will need to pass wood stove inspection, performed
by a WETT-certified technician. The WETT technician will check the given:
• The stove must meet minimum clearances from the bottom, top, sides, front, and back. If not, it poses a
serious fire risk.
• The minimum clearance to anything that could burn or overheat must be met.
• Minimum clearances of 152 cm from the top to the ceiling and 123 cm from each side must be met. With
shielding installed, the side clearance is reduced to 91 cm.
61
Zoned heating/cooling systems
Zoned heating/cooling systems use a centralized
furnace controller, motorized dampers, and sensors
that communicate with the controller to allow for
different temperature settings for different rooms.
For example, a homeowner might set their living room
to 23°C but keep an unused spare room at 16°C
62
Motion sensor air conditioning
Motion sensors can sense when rooms are unoccupied
| and turn off the heating and cooling in that room.
63
Smart control of heating/cooling
Smart control of heating and cooling allows
homeowners to control their home’s temperature
remotely using their mobile device, or locally using
their mobile devices or voice-activated devices such as
Google Home© or Amazon’s Alexa©.
This means a person can control the heating in their
house wherever they are in the world. This has many
benefits, from saving money on fuel bills to the
convenience of arriving to a warm home after a trip.
64
Smart geofencing thermostats
Smart technology can be used to control the heating
and cooling based on how far occupants are away
from the house. For example, it could set to a lower
temperature when a homeowner is more than three
miles away from the house and be automatically
turned up when the homeowner returns within that
distance. It does this based on a mobile app and a
mobile’s GPS.
65
Water supply
Once inside the house, cold water travels in pipes to
fixtures, such as taps and toilets, and to a water
heater. The heated water is then piped to hot water
taps in kitchens and bathrooms, and to a washing
machine and dishwasher if present in the property
66
Water disposal: drainage (waste)
Drainage is when pipes bring waste material from water fixtures to
sewers or a septic tank. This involves bringing sewage from toilets
or used water from showers and sinks.
67
Water disposal: venting
For waste and water disposal to work, there must also be a
venting system. Venting consists of a series of pipes leading from
waste pipes to the outdoors, usually through the roof. Venting
allows:
• Air in front of the waste to be pushed out of the way so that
the waste can move through the pipes
• Air to be re-introduced to the piping after the water has
passed so that there are no vacuums in the piping
• Sewer gases to escape outside via a venting stack so they do
not remain in the system
68
Service Pipe Materials
Lead - was used for service pipes until the 1950s. It should be replaced as it can
contaminate the water supply.
Galvanized steel-was used for service pipes until the 1950s and can still be found in
many older homes.
Copper- used for service pipes since the 1950s. It lasts a long time but can
need replacing in harsh water or soil conditions.
69
Service Pipe Materials
Lead - was used for service pipes until the 1950s. It should be replaced as it can
contaminate the water supply.
Galvanized steel-was used for service pipes until the 1950s and can still be found in
many older homes.
Copper- used for service pipes since the 1950s. It lasts a long time but can
need replacing in harsh water or soil conditions.
Plastic piping- Plastic piping has become more common in recent years and is a less expensive
option than copper
70
Lead service pipes
Lead municipal pipes have largely been replaced over
the years. However, the service pipe is the
homeowner’s responsibility, so sometimes lead service
pipes can still be found in homes. Lead pipes can
contaminate water in ways that are hazardous to
health. They are usually replaced with more modern
forms of piping
71
Galvanized steel service pipes
Over time, galvanized steel pipes rust on the inside
due to the presence of water. When that happens, the
diameter is reduced resulting in low water pressure
and brownish coloured water when a tap is first turned
on. Rust at the joints where two pipes meet can result
in leaks.
Insurance companies are reluctant to insure homes
with galvanized steel plumbing and will likely charge an
increased premium.
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Over time, galvanized steel pipes rust on the inside
due to the presence of water. When that happens, the
diameter is reduced resulting in low water pressure
and brownish coloured water when a tap is first turned
on. Rust at the joints where two pipes meet can result
in leaks.
Insurance companies are reluctant to insure homes
with galvanized steel plumbing and will likely charge an
increased premium.
Kitec plumbing consists of flexible aluminum pipe
between an inner and outer layer of plastic pipe (PEX
pipe) with brass fittings. Once thought to be a cheaper
and easier to install alternative to copper piping, Kitec
has several problems. Its most common problems
include:
• Its custom brass fittings have a high zinc content
that can cause corrosion. This can restrict water
pressure or cause fittings to fail, leading to
flooding and water damage.
• The pipes can leak or even burst if the hot water
system is run at too high a temperature or too
high a pressure level.
Kitec plumbing is often bright orange (hot water) and
bright blue (cold water).
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Leaks
Leaks in service pipes can go undetected because the
pipe is buried and difficult to see. The most obvious
signs are water accumulation in the basement or a wet
spot on the lawn. Leaks should be addressed by a
professional.
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Obstructed or partially closed shut-off valve
If the main shut-off valve is partially closed or
obstructed in some way, this will cause low pressure in
the whole water system. This can also occur in the
street shut-off valve.
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If the main shut-off valve is partially closed or
obstructed in some way, this will cause low pressure in
the whole water system. This can also occur in the
street shut-off valve.
Galvanized steel piping was originally made as a replacement for lead piping. It is made by dipping steel pipe in a
protective zinc coating to prevent corrosion. However, today we know that the coating degrades over time and
releases zinc and other metals (including lead) into the water. It was used almost exclusively for water distribution
until approximately 1950.
Water distribution
It is usually best to replace galvanized steel pipes in older houses when they are used for water distribution. Since
the corrosion occurs inside the pipe, it is difficult to determine when they are corroded. A telltale sign that the pipe
has rusted is reduced water pressure as the pipe closes in on itself. Also, when a tap is first turned on, the water will
be brownish in colour from the rust in the pipes. Galvanized steel pipes are prone to leaking at the joints where two
pipes meet, because of the buildup of rust.
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If the main shut-off valve is partially closed or
obstructed in some way, this will cause low pressure in
the whole water system. This can also occur in the
street shut-off valve.
Galvanized steel piping was originally made as a replacement for lead piping. It is made by dipping steel pipe in a
protective zinc coating to prevent corrosion. However, today we know that the coating degrades over time and
releases zinc and other metals (including lead) into the water. It was used almost exclusively for water distribution
until approximately 1950.
Water distribution
It is usually best to replace galvanized steel pipes in older houses when they are used for water distribution. Since
the corrosion occurs inside the pipe, it is difficult to determine when they are corroded. A telltale sign that the pipe
has rusted is reduced water pressure as the pipe closes in on itself. Also, when a tap is first turned on, the water will
be brownish in colour from the rust in the pipes. Galvanized steel pipes are prone to leaking at the joints where two
pipes meet, because of the buildup of rust.
Drainage and venting
Today, because of rusting and contamination problems, galvanized steel piping is only used for the purposes of
venting – letting air and gases escape from the plumbing system.
Hot and cold water
Galvanized steel pipes can be used for both hot and cold water, though hot water increases their rate of corrosion.
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Copper Piping
Copper piping has been in use residentially for water distribution since approximately 1900. Following the mid1950s, copper became the predominately used material, but it is gradually being replaced with plastic piping, such
as PEX, where it is allowed by the building code. It is very resistant to corrosion and has a long lifespan, however, it is
expensive.
Water distribution
Copper is still most commonly used for water distribution. It does not degrade with long exposure to water and is
safe for use with potable (drinkable) water. It is also used in shorter lengths to connect PEX piping to boilers as PEX
cannot do so direct
Drainage and venting
Copper piping is becoming rarer for drainage and venting since the 1970s as PVC is less expensive. PVC will be
discussed later in this lesson.
Hot and cold water
Copper can tolerate high temperatures, and as a result, it is useful for distributing hot water.
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Galvanized Steel Piping
Galvanized steel piping was originally made as a replacement for lead piping. It is made by dipping steel pipe in a
protective zinc coating to prevent corrosion. However, today we know that the coating degrades over time and
releases zinc and other metals (including lead) into the water. It was used almost exclusively for water distribution
until approximately 1950.
Water distribution
It is usually best to replace galvanized steel pipes in older houses when they are used for water distribution. Since
the corrosion occurs inside the pipe, it is difficult to determine when they are corroded. A telltale sign that the pipe
has rusted is reduced water pressure as the pipe closes in on itself. Also, when a tap is first turned on, the water will
be brownish in colour from the rust in the pipes. Galvanized steel pipes are prone to leaking at the joints where two
pipes meet, because of the buildup of rust.
Drainage and venting
Today, because of rusting and contamination problems, galvanized steel piping is only used for the purposes of
venting – letting air and gases escape from the plumbing system.
Hot and cold water
Galvanized steel pipes can be used for both hot and cold water, though hot water increases their rate of corrosion.
79
PEX Piping
PEX is a form of cross-linked polyethylene piping that has many advantages. It is cheaper than copper and won’t
corrode even in areas with acidic water. It is also quicker to install than copper. It is flexible and can be bent around
obstacles. Modern houses are increasingly using PEX piping in preference to copper.
Water distribution
PEX is becoming more common for water distribution, for both its corrosion-resistant properties and its flexibility. Its
flexibility makes it a great option for retrofitting older homes.
Hot water uses
PEX can tolerate high temperatures and so is excellent for hot water distribution, but it cannot connect directly to
a boiler; it needs at least a metre of copper pipe in between.
Drainage and venting
PEX is cheaper than copper and is increasingly being used for both drainage and venting purposes.
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PVC Piping
PVC, or polyvinyl chloride, pipes are used in a variety of municipal and industrial applications. They are notably
lightweight, low-cost, and generally low-maintenance, though the fittings used can be more expensive than those
required for copper pipes.
Water distribution
In the 1970s, plastic supply piping was approved and is now reasonably prevalent in new home construction. PVC is
affordable and does not corrode over time. They can degrade when exposed to UV light, so are best used for indoor
applications. They are great for most warm and cold-water applications, although they can be noisy when water is
passing through them.
Hot water uses
PVC pipes cannot be used for hot water as they will warp.
Drainage and venting
PVC piping is the most commonly used material for waste plumbing and venting.
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CPVC Piping
CPVC pipe is made from PVC that has chlorine added to it during manufacturing. It has all the same benefits as PVC
but with added durability. It is less noisy when water is going through it due to its smooth interior, more flexible
than metal tubing, and fire-resistant. However, it is more expensive than PVC.
Water distribution
CPVC can be used for all water distribution in all the same ways as PVC.
Hot water uses
CPVC can handle temperatures up to 93°C and so can be used for hot water applications where PVC cannot.
Drainage and venting
CPVC piping is commonly used for waste plumbing.
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Reduce buildup/corrosion
Corrosion of pipes and fittings can lead to reduced
water pressure and quality. When the tap is first
turned on, brown water may need to be flushed from
the system before usable water can be obtained,
resulting in inefficient use of water.
83
Fix leaks
Fix leaks
84
Install efficient appliances
When replacing older water appliances, such as
dishwashers and washing machines, it is an
opportunity to replace them with more efficient
models that use less water per wash cycle.
Look for appliances with the Energy Star symbol on
them; this symbol indicates the most energy-efficient
products in the marketplace.
85
Energy star symbole
this symbol indicates the most energy-efficient
| products in the marketplace.
86
Install low-flow fixtures
Modern faucets, showerheads, and toilets use about
40 per cent to 50 per cent less water than those made
prior to 1995. They do so by restricting the water flow
to a maximum amount, making a compelling argument
for updating fixtures in older houses to more modern
versions.
87
Install dual-flush toilets
Dual-flush toilets have two buttons to flush different
amounts of water. This is an improvement on older
toilets that may use several gallons/litres for each flush
regardless of how much is needed.
88
Install greywater systems
Greywater is the relatively clean wastewater from
baths, sinks, washing machines, and other kitchen
appliances. Most houses simply expel it once it is used.
Installing a greywater system enables homes to use
this water for tasks that don’t require perfectly clean
water. With a greywater system, up to 60% of
household water can be reused for tasks, such as
watering the lawn or flushing toilets.
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Install pressure control valves
Often, municipal authorities boost the pressure of
their water systems to ensure that it can adequately
supply places like high-rise buildings and elevated
areas. High water pressure can lead to wasted water
because more water passes through a high-pressure
system
Installing a pressure control valve allows occupants to
reduce the pressure of the water as it enters their
house so that it meets their needs without wasting
water.
90
Install cisterns
Many people install cisterns, which are large plastic or
metal tanks that collect rainwater for use in outdoor
tasks such as watering the garden, washing the car,
and so on. They can increase water efficiency and
lead to reduced water bills
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Water Heater Efficiency
Problems and concerns
• Water heaters are dependent on burners or elements, which can burn out over time, leading to loss of
efficiency or malfunction.
• Modern high-efficiency gas or propane-fired water heaters are usually vented through the wall using
specialized piping. Electric water heaters do not require venting.
• Water heaters can also leak and severely damage property.
• Over time, sludge can accumulate in the bottom of the tank. This limits water pressure in the system and can
lead to low volumes of hot water. Five to ten litres should be drained out of the system monthly to prevent
this.
• In areas with hard water, lime can build up inside the tank and lead to a need for early replacement. Homes in
areas with hard water often install water softener devices to reduce the level of minerals in the water. There
are many such products available at costs between $1,500 and $3,000.
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Tankless Water Heaters
Advantages:
• They cost less to run as they only heat water when needed.
• There is no storage tank, so they can be wall-mounted and need less room.
• They don’t run out of hot water.
• They have a longer lifespan.
Disadvantages:
• There is a slight delay when turning on a hot tap.
• They have a limited flow of hot water.
• They need a minimum flow to engage the burners.
• They can take six to 12 years of use to cover the extra costs.
• Gas-fired tankless burners need higher pressure gas to function correctly, and they can become clogged with
lime scale more easily in hard water areas.
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Renting a Water Heater
Installing a new water heater can be quite expensive. As a result, some homeowners feel that renting a water heater
is more cost-effective. In general, renting a water heater can save money for homeowners whose families are
growing and who may look to move out and into a bigger property in the near future
A salesperson should be able to advise sellers and buyers about the implications of renting water heaters when
buying and selling houses. Salespersons should advise homeowners that when renting a water heater,
homeowners should take time to compare rental plans from different companies and read the contracts to
understand the terms and conditions.
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Dripping faucets
Dripping faucets waste water, which is bad for the
environment and leads to higher water bills. A leaky
faucet that drips at a rate of one drip per second will
waste up to 20 litres a day.
95
Leaky pipes
Pipes commonly begin to leak near the joints, so a
salesperson should look for wet spots on the ground
or ceiling. Water damage can cause rot, mould, and
mildew and be very costly to repair for homeowners.
96
Running toilets
Like dripping faucets, toilets that are continually taking
in and expelling water can waste large amounts of
water invisibly. This increases water bills
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Low water pressure
If taps produce a weak flow of water, this could
indicate a problem with low water pressure. Low water
pressure can indicate that there are leaks, blockages,
or corrosion in the system. It can also indicate that the
pipes in the system are too small. Sometimes low
water pressure could be caused by a problem with the
municipal water supply
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Slow drainage
Slow drainage and blocked drains can cause flooding
and property damage. Slow drainage can be the result
of pipes on the property that have become blocked
with food or waste matter. However, it is possible that
pipes in the municipal system outside the property are
the problem. In this case, the proper authorities will
need to deal with the problem.
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Excessive water bills
Excessive water bills are a good indication that
something is wrong in the system somewhere,
whether from leaks in the system, pipes, or problems
with fixtures, such as the toilet flapper not sealing.
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Excessive water bills are a good indication that
something is wrong in the system somewhere,
whether from leaks in the system, pipes, or problems
with fixtures, such as the toilet flapper not sealing.
If there are offensive smells coming from drains and
other plumbing fixtures, it could indicate a blocked
sewer vent stack. Sewer gases can be dangerous and
unhealthy, and problems should be dealt with
immediately by a professional.
101
Installation of wells
Well installation is regulated under the Ontario Water Resources Act.
Any contractors or technicians that work on wells must be licensed
by the Ministry of the Environment, Conservation and Parks. They
must also meet certain minimum construction requirements.
102
Maintenance of wells
The well owners are responsible for maintaining the quality of their
wells and its water over time.
For routine testing of bacteria (E. coli and coliform), the local public
health authority will do the testing free of charge. If the presence of
other contaminants like heavy metals, is suspected, the tests should
be done by the Ministry of the Environment, Conservation and Parks
lab in Toronto
103
Decommissioning wells
If the well is no longer used as a well—or is temporarily
not being used and is being maintained for future
use—the owner is responsible for decommissioning it.
A well that is not properly decommissioned can:
• Pose safety problems for adults, animals, and
children
• Contaminate groundwater
• Affect the water quality of neighbouring wells
Once a well is abandoned, a well record must be sent
to the Ministry of the Environment, Conservation and
Parks.
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Dug wells
Dug wells are made by digging down to the water table
with a hand shovel or a backhoe until the water enters
faster than it can be bailed out. They are usually no
more than 10 feet deep and are normally lined with
cement and capped in concrete to reduce potential
contamination by surface water draining into the well.
They are found in older properties and are rarely
constructed in new homes.
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Drilled wells
Drilled wells are made using cable tools or rotary drilling
machines. As drilling can disturb loose material, they need a
casing and screen to ensure that they do not collapse or collect
sediment.
The depth of drilled wells will depend on the location of the
underground water source. A typical well for residential use
will be anywhere from 100 to 500 feet deep but could be as
much as 1,000 or more. They are usually sealed with grouting
material made of cement or clay, which prevents well water
from getting contaminated by surface water draining
downward.
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Bored wells
A bored well is a kind of well that is created using a largediameter bore or drill. Bored wells can be deeper than dug
wells and can get water from less permeable materials, such as
clay, fine sand, or silt. They can have a large diameter and thus
be exposed to a larger area of the soil that contains the
groundwater.
However, they tend to be shallow, making them subject to
running dry when water drops below the water table – that is
the level below which the ground is saturated with water.
Bored wells also do not have continuous casing or grouting,
which means they can be contaminated by surface water.
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Point (driven) wells
Point wells are the simplest type of well. A small
sharpened pipe is driven into shallow water-bearing
sand or gravel. Driven wells are economical and easy
to construct. However, they can only use shallow water
sources and so are susceptible to contamination from
surface sources, such as fertilizers used on nearby soil.
If driven by hand, they can only be around 30 feet
deep, but machine-driven wells can be up to 50 feet
dee
108
Point wells are the simplest type of well. A small
sharpened pipe is driven into shallow water-bearing
sand or gravel. Driven wells are economical and easy
to construct. However, they can only use shallow water
sources and so are susceptible to contamination from
surface sources, such as fertilizers used on nearby soil.
If driven by hand, they can only be around 30 feet
deep, but machine-driven wells can be up to 50 feet
dee
Wells can be shared among multiple houses with the well located on one property and the water pumped to each
house.
When shared wells are used, there are some considerations to ensure that they are used fairly and maintained
properly:
• There should be a formal well-sharing agreement between the users of the well, which may be registered on
title.
• Normally the well is located on one property with a submersible pump. One of the properties (usually the one
where the well is located) is billed for the electricity to run the pump.
• Neighbours who share access to the well are typically expected to equally share the costs of maintenance,
repairs, and a contribution to the electricity costs.
• Once the water reaches each property, owners are often responsible for their own individual water treatment
and pressure systems for each property
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Lake and River Water
Another way of providing water to a home is to pump river or lake water through an above-ground or below-ground
pipe from the water to the building. This is often done in rural cottages and is less common in permanent
residences.
There are several things to consider when using lakes or rivers as a source of water:
Lake water can easily become contaminated. To avoid this, water supply pipes should extend as far out into
the lake as possible to avoid brackish shoreline water, which has more salt than fresh water.
• Lake or river water may look and taste clean but still contain microorganisms that make people sick. This can
be treated in several ways, from boiling it to treating it with reverse osmosis, ultraviolet light, chlorine dioxide,
and chlorine tablets.
• Year-round homes with pipes that are close to the surface will require a heated water line to prevent freezing
in the winter months
110
Lake water can easily become contaminated. To avoid this, water supply pipes should extend as far out into
the lake as possible to avoid brackish shoreline water, which has more salt than fresh water.
• Lake or river water may look and taste clean but still contain microorganisms that make people sick. This can
be treated in several ways, from boiling it to treating it with reverse osmosis, ultraviolet light, chlorine dioxide,
and chlorine tablets.
• Year-round homes with pipes that are close to the surface will require a heated water line to prevent freezing
in the winter months
Drilling a well:
Drilling a well is an exploration of the quantity and quality of water available. It is common to drill holes that turn out
to be dry or low-yield. Low yield can be caused by a low water table, which can be seasonal but might be natural.
Low yield can also be caused by interference from other wells and geological conditions.
Minimum distances:
They should, however, be aware
that wells should be a certain distance from existing buildings, public roads, septic tanks, and leaching beds where
liquids are absorbed into the soil, which form part of the septic system to distribute waste water into the ground.
For example:
• Salt used on roads can seep into wells if they are too close.
• Septic effluent can enter wells.
• Streams can contaminate wells when they flood.
111
Dug wells
Sandy and gravelly
areas
Considerations:
Dug wells are shallow but can be made deeper than point wells. They
need to be in areas with a high yield of water as they can run dry
easily due to shallowness. They do not require any special machinery
to make but are labour-intensive.
112
Drilled well
Rock and hard soil
areas
Drilled wells can go deeper than the other forms of well but are more
expensive to construct. Their small diameter means they can’t store
much water.
113
Bored wells
Gravelly, sandy, or
silty areas
Bored wells can be made deeper than dug wells and can hold more
water because of their large diameter, so are useful in low-yield areas.
They are more expensive than point or dug wells.
114
Point (driven) wells
Sandy and gravelly
areas
Point wells are shallow and very simple and inexpensive to install.
They are either driven or jetted (inserted using high-pressure water)
into the ground. Well points are usually only installed where the
aquifer has a shallow water table and contains few or no stones.
115
Well caps
The casing of the well is topped by a well cap. It should fit tight to the casing to keep
out debris, surface water, insects, and so on.
116
Casing
A well casing is a pipe, tubing, or other material installed in a well that provides
support for the wall of the well so that loose rock fragments or unconsolidated sand
and gravel through which the well has penetrated do not collapse into the well shaft. The casing also protects the electrical wires, pull cable, and water tubing/
piping that is connected to the submersible pump
117
Pumps
• Jet pumps are installed above ground and are used for shallow wells. They pull
water up using suction.
• Submersible pumps are installed underwater down inside wells. They can be
used for shallow or deep wells. They push water up from below.
118
Well screens
Well screens filter out sediment from the water as it enters the well. They are
installed at the bottom of the casing.
119
Pitless adapter
Pitless adapters connect the well casing with the water line that discharges the
water from the well into the house. T
