Northern Rhone Flashcards
(214 cards)
Paul Jaboulet Aine
Important rhône Valley merchant and wine producer, whose most famous wine is Hermitage la Chapelle. The house was founded in the early 19th century by Antoine Jaboulet and takes its name from the older of his twin sons. Jaboulet’s own vineyard holdings in production, which provide between a quarter and a third of the firm’s needs, totalled more than 115 ha/2,85 acres in 2014, in every northern Rhône appellation. Recent acquisitions included additional holdings in Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage, a stake in Condrieu (first vintage 1996), Domaine St-Pierre in Cornas (1994), most of Domaine Raymond Roure in Crozes-Hermitage (1996), Domaine des Pierrelles in Côte Rôtie (2006), and Domaine de Terre Ferme in Châteauneuf-du-Pape (2007). Of the raw materials bought in, from 150 growers the length of the Rhône valley, two-thirds is wine rather than grapes, and in the late 1990s quality was notably variable. The firm was based in its old cellars in Tain l’Hermitage from 1834 until 1984 when a modern winery and warehouse was built in La Roche de Glun just south of the town. Jaboulet sell a range of more than 20 different wines, most of them in the firm’s own deep-punted bottle, and the best are their own special cuvées. Their crozes-hermitage, Domaine de Thalabert, was some of the earliest proof offered to wine drinkers outside France that this appellation could produce serious, age-worthy wine. The firm’s La Chapelle 1961 is an acknowledged classic. The white Hermitage, Chevalier de Stérimberg, demonstrates the late Gérard Jaboulet’s admiration for the roussanne grape. In 2005, after years of under-performance, the company was sold to the Frey family, owners of Ch La Lagune in Bordeaux and investors in Champagne Billecart Salmon.
Chapoutier
Family-owned merchant-grower based at Tain-l’Hermitage in France’s northern rhône. One of the Rhône Valley’s great names established in 1808 and with 32 ha/80 acres of precious hermitage vineyard, it languished somewhat in the late 20th century. During the 1980s, when Chapoutier’s peers (guigal and jaboulet, for example) and numerous small growers were catching the imagination of the wine world with the improving quality of their wines, Chapoutier wines stood out precisely because they seemed unexceptional by comparison. This situation changed dramatically in 1990 when Max Chapoutier’s son Michel took over the running of the company, with outspoken passion and an early devotion to biodynamic viticulture. In 1996, the firm became the first wine producer to have labels in Braille. But what really distinguishes the company is its combination of high quality, often vineyard designated, and almost restless vineyard acquisition. By 2014 Chapoutier had a total of 260 ha/642 acres of vineyard in France alone, plus 428 ha of land as yet unplanted. These included vineyards the length of the Rhône Valley, nearly 100 ha in Roussillon, and three characterful Riesling vineyards in Alsace. Chapoutier also control 15 ha of vines in the Douro Valley and a total of 58 ha in the Australian state of Victoria together with a much greater area of unplanted land, some of these ambitious projects being joint ventures. In 2014 further possibilities in the Gard département in the southern Rhône and in georgia were under review.
Guigal
Family-owned merchant-grower based at Ampuis, côte rôtie, in the northern rhône. Although established as recently as 1946 by Étienne Guigal, Établissements Guigal is the most famous of any of the Rhône valley’s merchants or growers with collectors and investors. This is very largely due to the efforts of its manager since 1961, Étienne’s only son Marcel, a man of exceptional modesty and a gifted, meticulous winemaker. Guigal owns slightly more than 30 ha/75 acres of prime vineyard in Côte Rôtie, and it was the wines made from three of its best parcels, extravagantly praised by influential American wine writer Robert parker in the early to mid 1980s, that first drew international attention to Marcel Guigal. It would be fair to say that the quality of Guigal’s top wines, along with Parker’s persistent enthusiasm for them among many other Rhône wines, spearheaded a resurgence of interest in the whole region. Guigal’s so-called cru wines (La Mouline, La Landonne, and La Turque) are dark, dramatic, mouth-fillingly rich and oaky expressions of the syrah grape (supplemented by up to 11% of co-planted viognier in the case of La Mouline); made from low yields of very ripe, late-picked fruit aged for three and a half years in 100% new oak, and bottled without fining or filtration. They are particularly impressive when young and their quality is beyond question, but opinions are divided about their style; purists in particular feel that their character is masked by excessive oak. Reputation and rarity combined (only 400 to 700 cases of each are made each year) have also made them extremely expensive and therefore game for criticism, fair or not. More recent offerings include the more plentiful Côte Rôtie Ch d’Ampuis, La Doriane, a special condrieu, and, from the 2001 vintage, Ermitage Ex Voto. Because of the ballyhoo over his top wines, it is easy to overlook the fact that Guigal’s négociant wines, made substantially from bought-in grapes, are also very good and deservedly popular. In 1984 Guigal bought and revitalized the firm of Vidal Fleury, the company where Étienne Guigal worked at 14 years old (from 1923 until 1940) before founding his own. Vidal Fleury is run quite independently of Guigal although Marcel, helped increasingly by his son Philippe, makes its Côte Rôtie wines.
Chateau Grillet
One of France’s smallest wine appellations and one of the few with a single owner. Ch Grillet’s few hectares of vineyard represent an enclave within the condrieu zone in the north of the northern Rhône (see map under rhône). A virtual amphitheatre carved out of the granite shelters the narrow terraces of viognier vines from the north winds which can so seriously prejudice both quantity and quality in Condrieu. Already appreciated by Thomas jefferson in the late 18th century, Ch Grillet has always been in single ownership. Until it was bought by François Pinault, owner of Ch latour, in 2011 it belonged to the Neyret-Gachet family and descendants. Annual production was barely 2,000 cases of Ch Grillet’s distinctive brown bottle, one of the last to grow from 70 to 75 cl. Since the 1970s, the wine maintained its high price more by its rarity than because it was obviously one of France’s finest wines. The new team in charge of the original 3.5 ha estate make a second wine, sold as Côtes du Rhône, and are refining rather than changing the style which is more austere and less headily perfumed than the best Condrieu. The result is a restrained, taut, longer-living wine which, unlike Condrieu, may improve in bottle for a decade or even two. The potential of the vineyard is undoubted, as earlier eulogies testify.
Northern Rhone production…..
High reputation and prices, but only 5% of local Rhone production.
Topography- Northern Rhone
Narrow and steep, vines mostly planted on the western slopes of the Rhone
Soils- Northern Rhone
Granitic soils prone to soil erosion
Climate- Northern Rhone
Dominate feature is the Mistral, a strong, cold north wind that cools the climate but inhabits disease. Summers are hot, but not stifling. Risk of frost in early spring and delayed ripening. Rain usually in early spring and late autumn. Hail an occasional problem.
Viticulture- Northern Rhone
Little mechanisation due to slope, production costs high. Eroded soil often to be put back on the slopes, pulled up the slopes by a pulley system. Vines tend to be individually staked to combat the affect of the Mistral.
Vinification- Northern Rhone
Red winemaking mostly still traditional, lengthy maceration and barrel ageing for up to 3 yrs. Partial carbonic maceration used for cheaper wines. White wine generally cool fermented in stainless steel and bottled within 6 months. Fine condrieu and white hermitage may see some oak ageing.
Syrah- Northern Rhone
Dominant red grape. Deep colour, tannin and has long ageing potential. Aromas and flavours of blackberries, blueberries and pepper. Takes on gamey characters when aged. Only red grape permitted for AC wines.
Viognier- Northern Rhone
Low yield, opulent wine with exotic fruit aromas. Plantings increasing.
Rousanne- Northern Rhone
Planting declining, poor resistance to disease and wine. Adds fruit and acidity to a blend.
Marsanne- Northern Rhone
Similar to Rousanne, but less aromatic.
Rhone Blends- Northern Rhone
Marsanne and Rousanne often blended. Viognier never blended with other white varieties.
Cote- Rotie AC- Northern Rhone
Most Northernly vineyard area, translates as ‘roasted slope’. Steep narrow terraces, impossible for mechanisation. Vines trained to a teepee to stabilise against the mistral. Only red production, with up to 20% viognier added. Deep coloured reds, full bodied spicy and complex.
Condrieu AC- Northern Rhone
Viognier production only. Unique floral perfume, best drunk young. Best from low yielding old vines. Steep vineyards and tiny production pushes up prices. Chateau Grillet AC is a single vineyard producing oak aged viognier.
Saint- Joseph AC- Northern Rhone
West Bank of the river. Mostly Syrah, small quantities of Marsanne and Rousanne. Syrah has raspberry and pepper characters and is the largest bodied northern Rhone red. Terraced vineyards near Tournon produce the best quality. Large volume production from flatter sites.
Crozes- Hermitage AC- Northern Rhone
Situated around the town of Hermitage. Highest production, lighter bodied wines made from high yielding flatter sites, concentrated complex wines from steeper slopes. Some expensive wine aged in oak. Most wine medium priced due to large volume and less prestigious reputation. White wine from Marsanne, fruity with medium body and to be drunk young.
Hermitage AC- Northern Rhone
Production of two of the world’s greatest wines with premium prices. Located on a steep, south facing hill, on the east bank of the river behind the town of Tain- l’ Hermitage. Syrah fermented with up to 15% white grapes is complex, full bodied, with ageing potential up to 50 years. A fifth of production is white; a blend predominated by Marsanne. Full bodied, long ageing capacity developing honey and hazelnut flavours.
Cornas AC- Northern Rhone
Undervalued. Sun baked sheltered location gives deep, full bodied wines to rival Hermitage. Cornas must be 100% Syrah, unlike other Northern Rhone appellations where a small percentage of white can be blended.
Jean- Louis Chave: Region of Production
Hermitage; Saint-Joseph
Jean- Louis Chave: Winery Location
Mauves
Jean- Louis Chave: Summary
One of the legendary wine families of France, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave has, since 1481, been passed down from father to son for 16 generations. The family initially grew Saint-Joseph wines before phylloxera wiped out their vineyards on the hillsides above the domaine at Mauves. A wise ancestor chose to purchase land on the hill of Hermitage and rebuild the domaine there. Now widely considered the greatest grower on the hill, Chave makes world-class white and red Hermitage with exceptional ageability. One of the keys to the Chaves’ success is their ability to blend across multiple climats to create the best possible wine in any given year. To maintain this enviable track record, they do not produce single parcel “reserve” wines, believing that the blended wine is the best expression of the terroir of Hermitage. However, in top vintages they do produce 200 cases of a red, barrel-selection “Ermitage Cuvée Cathelin” that is as expensive as it is rare. Gérard Chave took over the domaine in 1970 and brought it to worldwide fame; his son Jean-Louis Chave is now in charge with a CV that includes studies in the United States. Jean-Louis has also built up the family’s négociant business, J.L. Chave Selection, presenting a more affordable opportunity to experience the family’s winemaking skills as their domaine wines have become increasingly rare and expensive.