Performave Characteristics Of Woven Fabrics

Question 1

Woven fabrics

Answer 1

Produced in a loom by interlacing yarns at right angles to one another
Warp yarns fixed to loom and run length of fabric
Weft yarns run across fabric from selvage to selvage

Question 2

Plain weave characteristics

Answer 2

Simplest and cheapest weave

Maximum interlacing points so makes a strong fabric

Fabric has plain firm surface which is good for printing

Looks same on both sides

Dyed yarns in weave can make decorative effect

Highly twisted yarns create crepe fabric

Question 3

Plain weave examples

Answer 3

Broderine anglaise(lightweight fabric all over design with holes)
Calico(med weight slightly stiff handle)
Canvas (firm stiff fabric slightly ribbed )
Chiffon(lightweight sheer highly twisted and continuous filament yarns )
Muslin (lightweight loosely woven fabric )
Shirting (med weight crisp fabric can be produced in stripes checks and plain)
Taffeta(smooth slightly stiff made from filament yarns )
Voile(lightweight open textured fabric highly twisted yarn )
Winceyette (med weight soft warm cotton fabric)
Chambray (light weight speckled appearance )
Flannel(soft handle slightly raised surface)
Organdie(chemically treated to be stiff transparent finish)
Poplin (med weight soft seen and fine rib made using weft thicker than warp )

Question 4

Twill weave characteristics

Answer 4

Less interlacing points than plain weave

Hardest wearing weave

More complex to make so more expensive

Interlacing of west and water is offset to get diagonal pattern

Fabric is firm but frays due to fewer interlacing points

Definite right and wrong sides

Uneven fabric but shows less dirt

Question 5

Twill weave examples

Answer 5

Cavalry twill (firmly woven wards twist raised and pronounced diagonal lines on front)
Denim(warp faces twill made with white weft and blue warp )
Drill(similar to denim usually bleached heavy weight strong cotton fabric)
Gabardine(warp faces fabric distinct steep twill line smooth appearance on front )
Tartan(twill woven fabric made in Scotland each Scottish clan having own pattern and colours to give check pattern overlaid with warp and weft stripes)
Dogtooth check(2colours make a star effect)
Herringbone (reversing direction of twill at regular intervals to give zig zag striped effect)
Serge (closely woven slightly raised originally Italian)

Question 6

Satin weave characteristics

Answer 6

Warp yarn floats over 4 or more west yarns before going under one

Fabrics have right and wrong sides as weft yarns almost completely hidden by warp

Fabric isn’t hard wearing it frays and snags easily due to least interlacing points

Use filament yearns and longer floats to give fabric great lustre

Question 7

Satin weave examples

Answer 7

Satin(warp faces different weights front has lustre smooth back is duller )
Sateen(weft faced lustrous surface less than satin though spun yarns make short fibres noticeable on surface
Lighter weight satins for linings and lingerie
Duchesse satin(med weight slight stuff drape form garments)
Heavy bridal satin (textured multi filament heavy weight shorter floating yarns slightly less lustre than standard satins holds shape good for formal designs

Question 8

Variation in weaves
Jacquards
Warp pile weave
Weft pile weave
Uncut loop pile weave

Answer 8

Jacquards
Produces complicate patterns designed and controlled by computer programmers
Intricate curved patterns floral with textured surface
Takes long to make
Expensive
Eg formal wear or furniture

Warp pile weave
2 fabrics woven face to face knife moves back and forth and cuts third pile to separate the two fabrics
Difficult to work with
Expensive due to third yarn and fabric wastage
Not durable as third yarn can easily fall away from background weave leaving bald patches
Heavy warm soft fabric creates with good drape
Eg velvet in furniture

Weft pile fabric
Cut weft loops produces during weaving to create ribbed pile that runs parallel to salvage
Cords vary in width
Expensive like velvet with similar characteristics and challenges
Can be machine washed inside out
Eg corduroy in garments and even furniture

Uncut loop pile weave
Loops are uncut making it stronger than pile weave
Expensive due to amount of yarn used
Usually made of cotton so it’s soft very absorbent due to extra yarn makes it thermally insulated
Fabric frays when cut weight can be challenging to work with
Eg towels

Question 9

Special woven effect
Different coloured weft and warp creates patterns

Answer 9

Stripes-two or more blocks of colour in warp and one in weft creates stripes
Checks-blocks of different colours in both warp and weft creates checks
Gingham-equal blocks of coloured yarn in both warp and weft creates gingham even sized check
Tartan-alternating different sized bands of coloured yarn interlaced in warp and wedges using plain or twill weave creates large check tartan
Madras-same as tartan just brighter colours used and a plain weave

Question 10

Fabric effects created by using fibres and yarns

Answer 10

Boucle fabric
Creates bulky plain woven fabric that can have different colours and textured hairy knotty surface often wool or acrylic or can be blend of both
Crepe fabric
Highly twisted unbalanced yarns creates soft fabric that drapes well has irregular crinkle appearance often silk wool or polyester
Crinkles and permanent creasing
Achieved using thermoplastic fibres fabric is set to random pleats or creases using heat when cools creases remain usually polyester
Metallic effect
Sandwiching sheets of aluminium foil between clear classic film laminate them cut into flat ribbon like yarn