R2104 - Understanding Plant Propagation Flashcards

1
Q

1.1 What is a seed?

A

A seed is the product of sexual reproduction Formed from ovules as a result of fertilisation. Method by which plants reproduce.

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2
Q

1.1 What are the benefits to the plant of sexual reproduction?

A

Adaptation – survival of the fittest; strongest plants will thrive

Variety – mixing of characteristics gives chance of new and better plants

Survival – can survive harsh conditions as a seed

Volume

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3
Q

Phaseolus vulgaris - Common bean

1.1 Describe the internal external structure of a dicotyledonous seed.

A

Phaseolus vulgaris (Common bean)

Embryo - consists of a radicle, plumule, hypocotyl, epicotyl, cotyledon

Testa - (seed coat) waterproof and airtight. May contain germination inhibitors which enable the seed to stay dormant over winter.

Cotyledon - (seed leaves) food store for the embryo (1 monocot, 2 dicot)

Radicle - develops into first root to take up water and nutrients

Plumule - develops into the shoot system, (bearing leaves for photosynthesising and flowers for seed and fruit production)

Hypocotyl - region between the cotyledon and radicle (connects cotyledon to radicle)

Epicotyl - short length of stem between cotyledon and plumule (connects cotyledon to plumule)

Micropyle - weakness in the test where water uptake occurs triggering germination

Hilum - scar on Testa where seed was attached to the fruit

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4
Q

1.1 What are the benefits of propagating plants from seed?

A
  • Produces variation from which new cultivars can be developed
  • Only method for some species
  • Can get large numbers from one plant
  • Easily stored
  • Can avoid virus transmission
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5
Q

1.1 What are the limitations of propagating from seed?

A
  • Some plants may not produce viable seed
  • Lack of uniformity
  • Difficult germination
  • Some seeds don’t store easily
  • Time to maturity
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6
Q

1.1 State examplesof plants that are usually propagated from seed.

A
  • Daucus carota (carrot)
  • Phaseolus vulgaris (green/French bean)
  • Solanum lycopersicon (tomato)
  • Lobelia erinus
  • Nigella damascena
  • Lolium perenne (lawn ryegrass)
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7
Q

1.1 State the main horticultural uses of seed.

A
  • production of vegetables
  • annuals
  • bedding plants
  • making lawns
  • green manure crops
  • wild flower meadows and prairies
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8
Q

1.2 What is meant by ‘seed viability’?

A

Seeds which contain a living embryo and will germinate when conditions are right.

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9
Q

1.2 List the requirements for seeed germination.

A
  • moisture
  • temperature
  • oxygen
  • light/dark
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10
Q

1.2 State the meaning of seed ‘dormancy’.

A

When viable seed fails to germinate even when all germination requirements are met.

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11
Q

1.2 Describe the changes that take place in a
germinating seed.

A
  • First the seed takes in water setting off a series of chemical reactions
  • Respiration rate rises
  • Food store breaks down
  • Rapid cell division
  • Testa (seed coat) splits
  • Radicle emerges
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12
Q

1.2 What is epigeal germination?

A

In epigeal germination the hypocotyl extends and the cotyledons come out of the ground.
Phaseolus vulgaris (common bean) is an example of a plant that has epigeal germination.

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13
Q

1.2 What is hypogeal
germination?

A

Hypogeal germination the epicotyl extends and the cotyledons stay in the ground.
Vicia faba (broad bean) is an example of a plant that has hypogeal germination.

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14
Q

Common/French bean

1.3 Describe the preparation and storage of Phaseolus vulgaris.

A

harvesting - at the dry stage before first frost

drying - if bad weather threatens, uproot plants and hang upside down somewhere warm until pods are completely dry

separation - large seed taken from dry pods by hand, let seeds dry completely

cleaning - remove chaff and debris

packaging - Lidded airtight container with silica gel

storage conditions - Cool/fridge

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15
Q

Love-in-a-mist

1.3 Describe the preparation and storage of Nigella damascena.

A

harvesting - seeds are ripe and ready when the pod turns brown and papery
drying - allow seed heads to dry upside down in a paper bag
separation - shake pods and seeds will collect at the bottom of the bag
cleaning - remove chaff, insects and other debris
packaging - ensure seeds are completely dry, store in paper bag, envelope, airtight container
storage conditions - cool dry place

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16
Q

1.3 What are orthodox seeds? Name some examples.

A

Orthodox seeds require cool, dry storage. Humidity can be lowered in the air by using dehydrating agents like silica gel. Cool temperatures minimise respiration and therefore deterioration.

  • Daucus carota
  • Phaseolus vulgaris
  • Lobelia erinus
  • Nigella damascena
  • Lolium perenne
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17
Q

1.3 What are recalcitrant seeds? Name some examples.

A

Recalcitrant seeds require cool moist storage. The seed contain high levels of moisture or oils and
need to be kept moist and cool until sowing, as drying out can kill the seed.

  • Quercus robur (Oak)
  • Aesculus hippocastanum (Horse Chesnut)
  • Mangifera indica (Mango)
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18
Q

1.3 State the effect that storage factors have
on the ability of seed to germinate.

A

Temperature: Warmer conditions will cause seed viability to lost more quickly. Cool temperatures minimise respiration and therefore deterioration.

Moisture/Humidity levels: Moisture and heat speed up loss of viability.

Storage time: Some seeds can be stored longer that others before they lose viability.

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19
Q

1.3 Describe preparation and storage of Solanum lycopericum (tomato) fruits for seed storage.

A
  • Harvesting collect healthy, free from damage, ripe fruit
  • Maceration gently mash the using an implement like a table fork
  • Separation seeds should now be visible, and can be teased out to separate them from the pulp
  • Cleaning seed should be thoroughly washed under running water in a sieve, this removes any germination inhibitors that may be in the pulp
  • Drying seed should then placed on a non-absorbent surface to dry thoroughly before storing
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20
Q

2.1 Describe the method of sowing; pricking out; potting off; aftercare: for fine seed,** Begonia semperflorens**

A

Bergonia semperflorens
Use a seed compost which has 50% grit/perlite or vermiculite to improve drainage. Ensure compost has no large lumps and firm. Water with an upturned rose.

Mix seed with fine sand, this makes it easier to distribute evenly and see where you have sown.

Firm the seed into the surface of the compost. Label and date.

Can cover with clear plastic and put in a warm place away from direct sunlight.

When seedlings are large enough to be handled, prick out and potted off into prepared individual containers or plug trays.

Once pricked out and **potted off **, seedlings will need particular attention to watering and being kept out of direct sunlight or heat for a few days. As they grow, it will be possible to give them more light.

If seedlings have been in a protected environment up to now they need to be acclimatised to conditions outside before planting out.

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21
Q

2.1 Describe the method of sowing; pricking out; potting off; aftercare: for medium seed, Lactuca sativa (lettuce)

A

** Lactuca sativa (lettuce)**
Use multi purpose (crumble or sieve lumpy) or seed compost. Use a clean pot or tray. Firm the compost before sowing.

Sow seeds thinly over compost. Firm the seed into the surface of the compost.

Cover the seed to twice its depth with compost or vermiculite, gently firm and water carefully with upturned rose. Label and date.

Can cover with clear plastic and put in a warm place away from direct sunlight.

When seedlings are large enough to be handled, prick out and potted off into prepared individual containers or plug trays.

Once pricked out and **potted off **, seedlings will need particular attention to watering and being kept out of direct sunlight or heat for a few days. As they grow, it will be possible to give them more light.

If seedlings have been in a protected environment up to now they need to be acclimatised to conditions outside before planting out.

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22
Q

2.1 Describe the method of sowing; pricking out; potting off; aftercare: for large seed, Cucurbita pepo (melon)

A

Cucurbita pepo (melon)

Best sown in individual containers, or plug trays with large cell sizes. New or thoroughly cleaned.

Use multi purpose (crumble or sieve lumpy) or seed compost.

Seed can be sown individually but sowing 2 or 3 to every container means you can thin out the weakest seedlings.

Cover with compost to a depth roughly equivalent to the size of the seed. Water carefully with an upturned fine rose. Label with name and date planted. Can cover with clear plastic and put in a warm place away from direct sunlight.

Do not allow compost to dry out
When seedlings emerge remove lid or bag and allow maximum light without direct sunlight

Prick out strongest seedlings with a dibber, lift gently by leaves, pot off to a larger pot with more space (ready made hole in compost), gently firm and water in.

Seedlings will need particular attention to watering and being kept out of direct sunlight or heat for a few days. As they grow, it will be possible to give them more light.

Then can be potted on to a larger container or planted out, when acclimatised and if the conditions are correct.

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23
Q

2.1 List important things to remember when pricking out.

A
  • never hold seedlings by the stem, as if you crush this you will kill the seedling; hold or pull them by their leaves,
  • try to break up the interlocked root mass of young seedlings
    as carefully as possible by gently teasing them apart at the
    roots,
  • pricking out when small reduces damage, and seedlings are
    less likely to have interlocked roots.
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24
Q

2.1 Describe methods of avoiding pest and disease problems when sowing seeds.

A

Hygiene is most important.

seedlings are very vulnerable to a range of fungal diseases including ‘Damping off’

All tools, containers, composts
and water used should be as clean as possible and ideally sterile.

Containers and tools can be sterilised
in a suitable disinfectant or by using water at near boiling point.

The growing environment, such as propagators, should also be clean.

Sow seeds at correct density, over crowding spreads disease quickly and makes pricking out harder.

Water with clean tap water

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25
Q

2.2 Describe the ground preperation of an outdoor site for seed sowing.

A
  • Break up the soil surface into lumps with a fork or spade - remove any weeds - Add organic matter such as well rotted farmyard manure
  • Break up the lumps into smaller lumps, the tilth; this can be done by hand with a fork or with a rotovator. Ideally, the tilth should have the consistency of coarse breadcrumbs.
  • Level with a rake. Stones and other debris can now be collected and removed.
  • Ideally the soil should be left for some time to partially consolidate
  • Water ground and allow to drain before sowing
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26
Q

2.2 Name 5 different ways of seed sowing, with a named plant example for each.

A

Broadcast - lolium perenne (grass)
Drills - Daucus carota (carrot)
Station - in groups of 3 or 4 pastinaca sativa (parsnips)
Trench - pisum sativum (peas)
Individual - Phaseolus vulgaris (beans)

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27
Q

2.2 What is broadcast sewing?

A

Broadcast sowing - the aim is the even distribution of seed over an area
e.g lawns and wildflower seed

Prepare ground

Choose a non windy day as seed will blow away

Can be tricky to get an even distribution, one way is to mix the seed with sand

Divide it into two equal batches then with the first batch walk backwards and forwards in parallel lines one way scattering seed

Then walk at right angles sowing with the second batch

Sowing thickly has no advantage unless you have a severe bird problem

Gently rake the soil surface to cover the seed, if the conditions are dry water regularly to keep the soil moist and encourage the seed to germinate.

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28
Q

2.2 What is drill sowing?

A

Drill sowing - sowing in shallow trenches with a V profile

Prepare the soil

Make a shallow trench with a V profile

Filling the drill with water and letting it drain before sowing is a good way of ensuring seedlings have enough water for the first few weeks at least.

Sow the seed into it, and then gently rake the soil from the side into the drill.

The aim is to get the seed at the right
depth as directed by the packet.

Gently firm with the back of a rake.

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29
Q

2.2 What is station sowing?

A

station sowing – groups of seed at one location

Useful for plant varieties known to have a low rate of germination, such as Pastinacea sativa (parsnips) .

3 to 5 seeds are sown at each location, so at least one should
germinate.

30
Q

2.2 What is trench sowing?

A

Very similar to drill sowing but using a shallow trench with a flat botton not a V profile/

Useful for large seeds such as pisum sativum (peas).

This technique allows the sowing of a narrow band of plants rather than a strict row.

31
Q

2.2 What is individual sowing?

A

Individual sowing is useful for seeds which are large and which
are known to have a high rate of germination, such as Phaseolus vulgaris (beans).

32
Q

2.2 Describe sowing - lolium perenne (grass) Include when, aftercare, watering, thinning and on-going weed control.

A

lolium perenne (perennial rye grass)

sowing time: You can sow grass seed in spring or autumn. If sowing in autumn, the seed will germinate quickly as the ground is warm and moist. Germination may be slightly slower in spring.

sowing rate: Sow grass seed at rate of approx 43g per square metre.

sowing method: Broadcast sowing is used for lawns.

Aftercare: water the site regularly to keep the soil moist and encourage seeds to germinate.

33
Q

2.2 Describe sowing - Daucus carota (carrot) Include when, aftercare, watering, thinning and on-going weed control.

A

main outdoor sowing season is April to early July

Prepare ground

Sow in drills as thinly as possible, 1cm deep, in rows 15–30cm apart S

Seedlings can be vulnerable to slugs and snails, so put protection in place.

Thin out the seedlings if necessary, aiming for plants 5–7.5cm apart.

Sowing small batches every three to four weeks will give you continuous harvests.

Carrots are drought resistant, so rarely need watering. However, in long dry spells they will benefit from a soaking.

Fast-growing weeds can crowd out carrots, so hand weed regularly between rows.

34
Q

2.2 Describe sowing Pastinaca sativa (parsnips) - Include when, aftercare, watering, thinning and on-going weed control.

A

Sow March, April, and early May

Station sow 3 seeds at 15cm intervals, 13mm deep, in rows 30cm apart

Warm the soil before sowing with cloches or similar, and leave in place until the seedlings have developed two true leaves.

When seedlings are about 2.5cm high, thin out to leave one every 15cm.

Keep the soil weed free by hand weeding.

Keep the soil evenly moist to prevent roots splitting

35
Q

2.2 Describe sowing pisum sativum (peas) - Include when, aftercare, watering, thinning and on-going weed control.

A

Sow Feb to July dependent on variety.

Never sow into cold, wet soil. if necessary warm the soil with polythene or cloches before sowing, then protect seedlings with horticultural fleece.

Peas generally prefer cooler weather and grow well in a cool spring.

Make a flat-bottomed trench 5cm deep and 15cmwide

Sow the seeds evenly in the trench about 7.5cm apart, cover with soil, then lightly firm. If you sow a second row, space it at a distance equal to the height of the crop.

Water the plants when they start to flower and two weeks after.

Keep the soil weed free by hand weeding.

Add a thick mulch around the base of the plants to help prevent the soil drying out.

Most peas, apart from dwarf cultivars, need supports to climb up

36
Q

2.2 Describe sowing - Include when, aftercare, watering, thinning and on-going weed control.

A

Sow outdoors once all risk of frost has passed, usually late May or early June

Prepare the ground

Sow the seeds individually, 5cm deep and 15cm apart

Climbers need tall, sturdy supports to climb up

Dwarf varieties best sown in blocks rather than rows, so they support each other.

Dwarf beans, insert short twiggy sticks between plants to keep them upright

Water regularly, especially once they start to flower and form pods

Mulch plants from July to keep soil moist

keep the soil weed free by hand weeding

37
Q

2.3 Describe propagation of ferns by spores.

A

In summer examine back of fronds (leaves) to see sporangia (where spores are formed).

Cut off a frond and lay on a piece of paper in a warm dry place. Spores will shed looking like brown dust.

Sterilise a pot of seed compost by pouring boiling water over or putting in microwave and allow to cool.

Sow spores thinly over surface of pot and cover with cling film or heated propagator.

Mist spray regularly with cool boiled water.

Remove film when moss like Prothali appear. Lift small pieces of moss into new pots of sterile seed compost.

Spray with cooled boiled water. Cover again and wait for plantlets to appear spraying daily with luke warm water.

Once they become crowded, clumps
of sporelings can be transplanted into seed trays or plug trays.

They should be regularly misted until small but recognisable fronds are identified.

38
Q

3.1 what is meant by the term ‘vegetative
propagation’?

A

Vegetative propagation involves asexual reproduction and results in a clone. The propagule and new plant are genetically identical with the parent and with each other.

Propagules - a vegetative structure that can become detached from a plant and give rise to a new plant, e.g. a bud, sucker, or spore.

39
Q

3.1 What is the benefit to the plant of asexual
reproduction?

A

Fertilisation is unnecessary, so even in conditions where there are no pollinators, the plants can continue to spread and multiply.

40
Q

3.1 What are bulbs?

A

An underground modified shoot, consisting mainly of food storage leaves (scale leaves).

Narcissus ‘February gold’ (daffodil)
Tulipa ‘Spring green’ (tulip)

41
Q

3.1 What are corms?

A

Swollen and compressed underground stems which act as food storage.
Crocosmia ‘Firebird’

42
Q

3.1 What are rhizomes?

A

Creeping swollen root-like structures that are actually adapted stems.
Iris ‘Superstition’

43
Q

3.1 What are stolons/runners?

A

A creeping horizontal plant stem or runner that takes root at points along its length to form new plants.

Fragaria × ananassa ‘Hapil’ (strawberry)

44
Q

3.1 What are suckers?

A

Suckers are growths that appear from the root systems of many trees and shrubs.
Syringa vulgaris (Lilac)

45
Q

3.1 What are stem/root tubers?

A

Swollen, usually underground, parts of a stem or root used to store food by the plant. They have buds that can produce new plants.

Solanum tuberosum (potato)
Cyclamen coum

46
Q

3.1 What are layers?

A

A way of encouraging shoots to form roots whilst they are still attached to the parent plant, by being bent down
and pegged to the ground or into compost in a container.

47
Q

3.1 What are cuttings?

A

A stem, root, or leaf that is cut from a plant and induced to form roots and/or shoots, thus producing a new plant.

48
Q

3.1 What are divisions?

A

Perennial plants that grow in a clump are easy to propagate by division. The clump can be teased apart or chopped up using a sharp knife or a spade, to make new plants. Spring and autumn are the ideal times to lift and divide many perennial plants.

49
Q

3.1 State horticultural benefits of propagating plants by vegetative means.

A
  • new plants are clones and they retain the characteristics of the parent plant; this means that the new
    plants can be given the same cultivar name as the parent
  • there is often a shorter time to maturity
  • problems with seed dormancy and other germination problems are avoided
  • it is the only possible method for some plants.
50
Q

3.1 State limitations of propagating plants by
vegetative means.

A
  • disease, especially viruses, may be transmitted,
  • with some species there will be a limited availability of material,
  • sometimes there is a need for specialised propagation equipment and environments
  • different skills and knowledge are needed compared to seed sowing
51
Q

4.1 What is meant by the term ‘juvenility’?

A

Young plant growth - juvenile stage is the period after germination where the plant capable of rapid vegetative growth.

52
Q

4.1 What is meant by the term plant health?

A

Healthy plant material is:
* free from pests and disease

  • in nutritional balance, with no obvious nutrient deficiency problems
  • has had the correct light levels for the species
53
Q

4.1 Describe the effect of juvenility and plant health on successful propagation.

A

Juvenility, i.e. young growth, and plant health, are crucial for successful propagation, as older growth, or stressed or diseased growth, is often unable to form new** roots or stems**.

54
Q

4.2 State the characteristics of materials used in growing media for vegetative propagation.

A

A high rate of respiration is required for rooting cuttings. Use sterile peat-free compost as a base material.

The compost needs to be well aerated with good drainage minimise the vulnerability to fungal disease. Add perlite, sandor grit to increase aeration and drainage.

55
Q

4.2 Describe how and when to collect and prepare: softwood cuttings. Name 2 examples.

A

E.g. Pelargonium, Fuchsia

When: spring to early summer (Apr-Jun) Cuttings from young plants root more easily.

Collection:Early in the day is best, when turgid. Collect non-flowering shoots, as they will root more readily.

Preparation: Using a sharp knife trim below a node to make a cutting about 5-10cm long.

Remove the lower leaves. Pinch out the soft tip and dip the base in hormone rooting powder or liquid.

Make a hole in the compost and insert the base of the cutting with the first pair of leaves just above the level of the compost.

Label the pot and water it from above to settle the compost.

Place the pot in a closed propagator or cover with a plastic bag and place somewhere warm. Remove the bag to ventilate the cutting at least twice a week for 10 minutes.

Cuttings should be placed in good light but not direct, scorching sunlight.

Ensure the compost is moist until the cuttings are well-rooted which takes about 2 to 4 weeks.

Once rooted, harden off the cuttings for about two weeks and pot them on.

56
Q

4.2 Describe how and when to collect and prepare semi-ripe cuttings: Name 2 examples.

A

E.g. Chamaecyparis spp., Hebe, Camelia

**When: **Take from summer to mid-autumn (Jul-Sep) from healthy stems grown this season. The base of the cutting is firm, while the tip is still soft.

Collection & preparation:Select cuttings from this season’s growth, cut using sharp secateurs.

Prep cuttings by trimming to 10-15cm, cutting just below a leaf node.

Remove lowest leaves and soft tips. Usually approx four leaves remaining.
On large-leaved shrubs, cut the leaf in half to reduce water loss.

Dip cutting in fresh hormone rooting powder, ensuring bottom is well covered. Tap gently to remove the excess.

Insert the cuttings into suitably-sized containers filled with compost – use 50% free-draining potting compost mixed with 50% sharp sand or perlite.
Water well and allow to drain.

Place in a greenhouse or cover pots with a plastic bag and put in warm, light position, out of direct sunlight.

Remember to remove excess moisture, but keep compost damp.
Cuttings taken in summer seldom need bottom heat but by autumn cuttings root more quickly in a heated propagator.

57
Q

4.2 Describe how and when to collect and prepare hardwood cuttings: Name 2 examples.

A

E.g. Cornus spp. Buddleja spp
.
When:Dormant season (mid-autumn until late winter) after leaf fall, avoiding periods of severe frost. Ideally just after leaf fall or just before bud-burst in spring. From vigorous healthy shoots of the current year’s growth - this will be woody but pliable.

How:often grown outdoors in the ground in a prepared trench. a Smaller numbers, can be container grown. Some, dogwoods, benefit from protection with cloches or coldframe.

Collection & preparation:Select vigorous healthy shoots that have grown in the current year and remove the soft tip growth

Cut into sections 15-30cm, cutting cleanly above a bud at the top, with a sloping cut to shed water and as a reminder which end is the top

Cut straight across at the base below a bud or pair of buds and dip the lower cut end in a hormone rooting compound

Prepare a trench outdoors in a sheltered site with well-drained soil. Dig in a bucketful of garden compost or other organic matter every sqm

Insert the cuttings into the ground or pot with two-thirds of the cutting below the surface, with a layer of sand in the base. The roots will form along the stem. A few buds remain above the ground to allow the plant to grow away in spring.

Allow 10-15cm between cuttings and 40cm between trenches

Check the trench after frosts and firm back if required

Leave in place until the following autumn ensuring they do not dry out in summer

58
Q

4.2 What does ‘sticking’ mean?

A

Salix (willow), Populus (poplar) root very easily from hardwood cuttings. ‘sticking’, simply pushing a rod or stick, cut from the current season’s growth, up to 1.5m long, into the ground, as deeply as possible. Roots and new shoot growth will be produced in the spring.

59
Q

4.2 What does ‘wounding’ mean?

A

Ilex (olly), Camellia and Rhododendron, require wounding to encourage root production. It is thought that wounding creates a root promoting stimulus, perhaps of a chemical nature.

Prepare your cutting then remove a thin slice of bark near its base. The length of the wound will depend on the size of the cutting but a rough guide of 1cm can be applied. This creates a larger surface area for forming roots.

60
Q

4.2 What does ‘heel cutting’ mean?

A

Useful for woody plants that have pithy stems Sambucus (elder), or old plants in less than peak condition. Not very effective on broad-leaved trees.

Pull away a cutting-sized shoot from the main stem, to retain a small tail of bark, or heel, at the base. The heel contains high levels of growth ‘hormones’ (auxins) that help promote rooting.

61
Q

4.2 Describe how and when to propagate by division. Include example.

A

Alchemilla mollis, Pulmonaria

Time of year: Autumn or Spring.

**Lifting: **Remove the old flowers and leaves. Removing the old leaves encourages the plant to produce more new ones, and limits the amount of water that the plant is losing through the leaves. Dig the entire plant up with a shovel.

Dividing: With a sharp knife or spade, split the root ball into the desired amount of plants. Make sure there is a good amount of vegetation attached to each part.

Use of the divisions: If you already know where your plant is going, simply take it to its location and plant at the same depth as before. You could also replant the part of the plant in the same location or into pots. Don’t keep it out of the soil for too long and water frequently when planted

62
Q

4.2 Describe ‘air layering’ how and when, with examples.

A

Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Cotinus (smoke bush) When - autumn or spring

Choose a one- to two-year-old stem that is straight, healthy and vigorous.

Trim off side shoots and leaves from a 30cm section. Do not leave any snags.
Wound the stem, making a 2.5cm cut through a leaf bud, angled towards the shoot tip. This will create a tongue that can be lifted.

Apply hormone rooting compound to the surface of the wound.

Pack a small amount of moist sphagnum moss under the tongue of the wound.

Wrap the wounded stem section loosely with black plastic, sealing it at one end with weather-proof adhesive tape.

Pack the wrapping sleeve with moist sphagnum moss, to a thickness of 7.5-10cm

Seal the other end of the wrapping sleeve with weather-proof adhesive tape.

Leave the wrapping in place for up to a year. Open and check it occasionally for signs of rooting.

When strong new roots are visible through the moss, remove the plastic sleeve. Cut through the stem just below the rooted section

Pot up the rooted stem in potting
compost. Do not attempt to remove the moss from the roots.

63
Q

4.2 Describe ‘simple layering’ how and when, with examples.

A

Cotinus, Forsythia suspensa

When - autumn or spring

Choose flexible young shoots on the outside of the plant that can be bent down to ground level

Mark the point where the shoot touches the ground with a bamboo cane

About 30cm from the shoot tip, make a 2.5-5cm incision (wound) along the stem, running through a leaf bud (remove the leaf first if the plant is in leaf). This will create a wedge that is propped open with a small piece of wood

Apply hormone rooting compound to the surfaces of the wound

Make a shallow trench in the soil, 10-15cm deep, back from the bamboo cane towards the parent plant

Peg the wounded section of stem into the trench with a loop of thick wire

Secure the tip of the shoot to the bamboo cane, so that it is growing upwards

Fill up the trench with soil, firm in and water if dry

64
Q

4.2 Describe ‘serpentine layering’ how and when, with examples.

A

Lonicera (honeysuckle), Clematis montana

When: autumn/spring

Aim is to produce multiple plants from one stem.

Involves looping the stems of climbers in and out of the soil to encourage roots to form at several points along the same stem.

Stem is laid down on the ground and wounded in several places, each of which is pegged down, with a bud visible on the section left above ground; there must also be a final bud at the tip of the stem left above ground.

Thin-stemmed climbers need not be wounded.

65
Q

4.2 Describe how and when to propagate by leaf lamina
cuttings. Name example.

A

Sansevieria trifasciata (snake plant)

When - spring/summer

Leaf lamina cutting (The flat and expanded portion of the leaf in its entirety is known as the lamina)

Sansevieria: Select a full-grown leaf and cut in half along the midrib (central leaf vein), which should be discarded. Using a seed tray make a shallow trench and insert the leaf, cut side down and firm in.

Water and allow to drain. Place in a
propagator or a clear plastic bag in a light place out of direct sunlight.

Leaf cuttings from tropical plants must be kept in high humidity at about 20°C (68°F).

When plantlets form, remove covers and allow them to grow on until large enough to pot up individually.

66
Q

4.2 Describe how and when to propagate by leaf petiole
cuttings. Name example.

A

Saintpaulia spp. (african violet), Peperomia

When: spring/summer

Select young leaves.

Cut the leaves with the leaf stalk (petiole) intact from the parent plant.

Insert into compost with the leaf petiole pointing downwards. The leaf base should be just touching the compost surface. Firm in.

Leaf lamina cutting (The flat and expanded portion of the leaf in its entirety is known as the lamina)

Sansevieria: Select a full-grown leaf and cut in half along the midrib (central leaf vein), which should be discarded. Using a seed tray make a shallow trench and insert the leaf, cut side down and firm in.

Water and allow to drain. Place in a
propagator or a clear plastic bag in a light place out of direct sunlight.

Leaf cuttings from tropical plants must be kept in high humidity at about 20°C (68°F).

When plantlets form, remove covers and allow them to grow on until large enough to pot up individually.

67
Q

4.2 Describe how and when to propagate by leaf bud
cuttings. Name examples.

A

Camellia spp., Clematis spp.

When: spring /summer

Leaf bud cuttings are a form of stem cutting. They are comprised of a leaf, a bud in its leaf axil, and a very short piece of stem.

The leaf provides food to support the cutting whilst it establishes roots, the bud provides the starting point of the new stem system and the lower piece of stem is where the first roots form.

Select a new stem with an undamaged leaf and a viable bud in its axil, later in the season.

Make an angled cut just above the bud. Make a straight cut 2 - 3cm at the bottom.

Roll or trim a large leaf. Dip cutting in rooting hormone.

Plant in pot with bud level with compost surface. Firm well and water in.

68
Q

4.2 Describe how and when to propagate by root cuttings. Name examples.

A

Papaver orientale, Primula
denticulate.

When: late autumn or winter

thick sections of root near to the crown are selected and cut into
3-5cm lengths.

Cut the top square and the
lower part cut on a diagonal to easily identify top and bottom.

Important not to plant upside down as this prevents establishment. The cuttings are

Inserted vertically into compost.

Lightly water and place in a cold frame. Shoots should appear from the top of the roots in the spring.

thinner rooted species such as Phlox, are placed horizontally on compost and then covered with a thin layer of compost.

69
Q

4.2 Name examples of pests that can do damage during the rooting process.

A
  • slug and snail
  • rabbits
  • vine weevil
  • sciarid fly
70
Q

4.2 Name 2 diseases that can damage plants during the rooting process.

A
  • botrytis
  • damping off
71
Q

4.2 Name ways to avoid pest and disease during propagation.

A
  • select healthy plant material
  • Remove dead leaves and plant material
  • use sterile potting media
  • use clean water
  • use clean tools and equipment
  • keep hands clean
  • ventilate adequately
  • monitor for pest and disease
  • take cuttings from top of plants
72
Q

4.2 What is a misting bench?

A
  • Popular with commercial growers in greenhouse/polytunnels
  • bursts of very fine water droplets (a mist) is occasionally released
  • Cuttings are kept open, so that they
  • are in an atmosphere which is both humid and well-ventilated.
  • Inspection to removed dead leaves or tidy up is very easy.
  • The mist unit may be controlled by a humidity, temperature, time or a light monitor, so that bursts of mist are more frequent or more prolonged in conditions where drying out is more likely.