Types Of Waves

Question 1

What causes waves

Answer 1

Wind strength
How long the wind blows for-fetch

Question 2

What are the waves like in summer

Answer 2

Construction waves
They have a strong swash which transports sand up the beach
The gentle slope means that the backwash is slow so sand is deposited
Positive sand forms a bank or berm

Question 3

What are the waves like in winter

Answer 3

Strong, taller winds closer together called plunging waves
They have a strong backwash eroding sand from the beach
The backwash flows under the next incoming wave forming a rip current. These can be strong and drag swimmers out to sea
Waves like this create a steep beach
The sand is carried away and deposited offshore forming a bar

Question 4

What are waves that erode beaches

Answer 4

Destructive waves