Waves Flashcards
Define a wave
The oscillation (back and forth movement) of the water surface
What shapes waves?
Wind blowing over a smooth sea surface, causing ripples which grow into waves.
What 2 factors can also influence waves?
- Tides
- Earthquakes
What controls wave energy and size?
- Wind strength & duration
- Fetch
- Depth of seabed
What direction do waves move in once created?
The direction of the wind that created them
What part of the wave moves?
The wave form
Describe the movement of water and energy within a wave
Wave particles simply rotate in a circular or elliptical movement as the wave passed through. It is the energy of the wave that moves towards the shore
What happens to the waves energy when a wave breaks?
It translates into the movement of water towards the shore.
What is a wave of translation?
Water that reaches the shore
What happens when a wave base comes into contact with the seabed?
Friction slows down the wave advance which causes the wave front to crowd together.
Define wave shoaling
The shortening of the wave which causes an increase in wave height - creating a breaker.
What are the 3/4 main types of breaking waves?
- Plunging
- Surging
- Spilling
- Collapsing
Define trough
The lowest part of the wave
Define crest
The highest part of the wave
Define wave length
The distance between two successive crests
Define circular motion
Waves have a circular orbit or motion
Define wave height
The vertical difference between the trough and crest
What is the still water level
The level the sea would be at if there was no wind and therefore no waves
Define wave period
The time taken for a wave to complete one cycle
Define wave velocity
The distance travelled by a wave per unit of time
Define wave frequency
The number of waves breaking on a beach per minute
Define wave steepness
The ratio of the wave height to the wave length
Define wave energy
The transport and capture of energy by ocean surface waves
Define swash
The rush of seawater up the beach after the breaking of a wave
