Waves

Question 1

What characterizes a wave signal?

Answer 1

a disturbance transferred through a medium at a recognizable speed.

Question 2

How does a bird demonstrate wave propagation?

Answer 2

A seabird floating on the ocean surface is carried toward the shore by a passing wave while mostly staying in the same spot.

Question 3

What is a wave’s crest?

Answer 3

The crest is the highest point of a wave.

Question 4

What is a wave’s trough?

Answer 4

The trough is the lowest point of a wave.

Question 5

How is wave height defined?

Answer 5

Wave height (h) is the vertical distance from crest to trough.

Question 6

What is the formula for calculating wave phase speed in deep water?

Answer 6

The phase speed (cp) in deep water is calculated as (cp) = √(gL/2π)

Question 7

What differentiates shallow water waves from deep water waves?

Answer 7

Shallow water waves occur in depths that are small relative to their wavelength, while deep water waves occur in deeper water relative to their wavelength.

Question 8

What happens to wave speed when moving from deep to shallow water?

Answer 8

Waves slow down and their height increases as they approach shallow water.

Question 9

What is the significance of the ratio H/L?

Answer 9

determines whether wave is classified as shallow or deep water, based on depth of water relative to its wavelength.

Question 10

What is the phase speed of a tsunami in deep ocean water?

Answer 10

The phase speed of a tsunami in deep ocean water can be approximately 200 m/s.

Question 11

At what speed can a tsunami propagate across the Pacific Ocean?

Answer 11

A tsunami can cross the Pacific Ocean in about one day at a speed of around 200 m/s.

Question 12

What is capillary wave and what causes it?

Answer 12

small waves usually generated by the wind and maintained by cohesion of water molecules.

Question 13

How are wind waves generated?

Answer 13

when wind transfers energy to ocean surface.

Question 14

What are the typical wavelengths of wind waves?

Answer 14

60-150 meters (200-500 feet).

Question 15

Define rogue waves.

Answer 15

unusually large waves that exceed steepness ratio of 1:7.

Question 16

How does wave refraction occur?

Answer 16

when waves approach shore at an angle, causing them to change speed and direction.

Question 17

What happens to waves in the shoaling process?

Answer 17

As waves shoal, they slow down and their height increases while energy is conserved.

Question 18

What role does fetch play in wave generation?

Answer 18

Fetch is the distance over which wind blows, influencing wave size and type.

Question 19

What is the period of deep-water wind waves?

Answer 19

approximately 20 seconds.

Question 20

What is the definition of wave crests and troughs?

Answer 20

Wave crests are the highest points, while troughs are the lowest points of waves.

Question 21

What is meant by wave dispersion?

Answer 21

the phenomenon where longer wavelength waves travel faster than shorter ones.

Question 22

How does the depth of water affect wave behavior?

Answer 22

Wave behavior changes depending on whether the water depth is small or large relative to the wavelength, affecting phase speed.

Question 23

What is a seismic sea wave? (aka tsunami)

Answer 23

caused by abrupt sea floor activity such as earthquakes or volcanic eruptions.

Question 24

How fast can seismic sea waves travel?

Answer 24

upwards of 210 m/s (approximately 470 miles/hour).

Question 25

How does wave height change in the surf zone?

Answer 25

In the surf zone, waves slow down, and their height decreases.

Question 26

What causes whitecapping in ocean waves?

Answer 26

when steepness of a wave exceeds a 1:7 ratio, causing top to blow off.

Question 27

What defines a wind wave's size?

Answer 27

A wind wave's size is controlled by wind velocity, wind duration, and fetch.

Question 28

Describe the method of wave generation caused by atmospheric pressure changes.

Answer 28

Changes in atmospheric pressure can generate seiche waves, which are influenced by gravity.

Question 29

What can be used to predict other wave properties if one is known?

Answer 29

If the phase speed (cp), wavelength (L), or period (T) of a wave is known, the others can be calculated.

Question 30

What happens to wave speeds in shallow water?

Answer 30

phase speeds dependent on water depth and affected by bottom friction.

Question 31

What is the critical distinction between deep water waves and shallow water waves regarding periods?

Answer 31

Deep water waves have periods of around 20 seconds, while shallow water waves have longer periods, often around 20 minutes.

Question 32

Why is the understanding of tsunamis important?

Answer 32

crucial for predicting their behavior and mitigating risks associated with their impact.

Question 33

What is the average wavelength of a seismic sea wave?

Answer 33

The average wavelength of a seismic sea wave is about 200 kilometers (125 miles).

Question 34

What happens during wave diffraction?

Answer 34

when waves propagate around an object, causing changes in their direction.

Question 35

How does the velocity and duration of wind affect wave generation?

Answer 35

Increased wind velocity and duration lead to larger waves with greater heights and longer wavelengths.

Question 36

How is wave energy conserved during shoaling?

Answer 36

Energy is conserved during shoaling as waves slow down, causing an increase in height.

Question 37

What is the effect of ocean temperature on wave behavior?

Answer 37

can influence wave energy and propagation