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Geography Term 3 > Waves And Deposition > Flashcards

Waves And Deposition Flashcards

1
Q

What is the wave period?

A

The time that it takes for two successive waves to pass a particular point.

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2
Q

What is the wave frequency?

A

The number of waves per minute.

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3
Q

What factors influence how big waves are?

A

1) How strong the wind is
2) How long the wind blows for
3) How long the fetch is
4) The depth

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4
Q

Why do waves break?

A

When the waves near the coast the bottom of the wave is slowed by friction with the seabed. The speed of the waves depends on the depth. Because the top of the wave is experiencing less friction it topples over the bottom of the wave and breaks.

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5
Q

What is swash?

A

The movement of water up the beach.

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6
Q

How is the direction of swash determined?

A

It is determined by the direction of the wind.

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7
Q

What is backwash?

A

The movement of water back down the beach.

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8
Q

What is the direction of backwash determined by?

A

Gravity.

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9
Q

What are destructive waves?

A

1m+ waves with weak swash and a strong backwash and erodes material from the beach. They also have a high frequency (10-12 waves per minute).

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10
Q

What are constructive waves?

A

Waves less than 1m tall with a strong swash but a weak backwash. Constructive waves deposit materials on the beach. They also have a relatively low frequency (6-8 waves per minute).

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11
Q

What is longshore drift?

A

Longshore drift is where a waves hits a beach at an angle. The direction of waves and swash is determined by the prevailing wind direction. The wave carries sediments up and along the beach and then the back wash flows straight back down the beach. Overtime sediment is moved along the beach.

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12
Q

How does a spit form?

A

Longshore drift happens in the direction of the prevailing wind. When the coast bends longshore drift does not stop and continues out into the sea. If the sea has low energy and deposition is greater than erosion, overtime a spit will build up. The end of the spit is usually hooked due to a storm.

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13
Q

What is a spit?

A

A spit is a long, thin stretch of sand connected to the mainland but stretching out into the sea. Spits are formed in areas of calm water where the sea has less energy.

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14
Q

How is a marsh formed?

A

Salt marshes are typically found behind spits, in estuaries or on long energy coastlines. Because they have low energy, deposition is greater than erosion, so over time mudbanks are formed.
Cord grass often grows in these salt marshes.

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15
Q

What is a bar?

A

A bar is a spit that connects two headlands or runs across the mouth of a small bay.

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16
Q

Where is an example of a bar?

A

Slapton bay, UK

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17
Q

What is a tombolo?

A

A spit that joins the mainland with an island.

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18
Q

What is a beach?

A

A beach is the accumulation between the lowest neap tide and the highest spring tide.

19
Q

Where do beaches get their material from?

A

Beaches get their material from: longshore drift, constructive waves, cliff erosion and river sediments.

20
Q

What is a sand dune?

A

A sand dune is a depositional feature.

21
Q

How are sand dunes created?

A

Sand dunes are created when vegetation succession and aeolian transport interact (work together).

22
Q

What is vegetation succession?

A

Vegetation succession is a biological concept where plants succeed (outgrow) smaller plants until a climax community is reached.

23
Q

What is aeolian transport?

A

Aeolian (wind) transportation is the movement of sand by the wind.

24
Q

What is saltation?

A

Saltation is where grains of sand ‘bounce’ in the wind.

25
Q

What is traction?

A

Traction is where grains of sand ‘roll’ in the wind.

26
Q

What is a pioneer species?

A

Spinifex. Spinifex catch sand by slowing the wind.

27
Q

What are small starting sand dunes called?

A

Embryo dunes.

28
Q

What plants are found on sand dunes?

A

Marram grass and knobby club rush.

29
Q

Where is an example of sand dunes in New Zealand?

A

Muriwai beach, West coast.

30
Q

What materials can beaches be made out of?

A

Beaches could be made out of sand, shingle and/or pebbles.

31
Q

What does the CASH acronym stand for?

A

C - corrasion
A - attrition
S - solution
H - hydraulic pressure

32
Q

What is corrasion?

A

Corrasion is rocks being thrown into cliffs by waves and when they break bits off the cliff.

33
Q

What is attrition?

A

Rocks, sand and stones being thrown into each other by the sea current and waves.

34
Q

What is solution?

A

The slight acidity of sea water causing bits of the cliff to dissolve.

35
Q

What is hydraulic pressure?

A

Where sea water and air become trapped in cracks in a cliff. The increasing pressure causes the rock to crack.

36
Q

What is wave pounding?

A

Wave pounding is where waves crashing into cliffs cause them to become weaker.

37
Q

Where is an example of a headland?

A

At Otakamiro point.

38
Q

Where is an example of a stack?

A

At Motutara stack.

39
Q

Where is an example of a stump?

A

At Daia island.

40
Q

How are coves formed and what are they?

A

Coves are a costal feature that is formed when rock along the coastline has a varying hardness.

41
Q

What is an example of a cove?

A

Lulworth cove, Dorset, England.

42
Q

What conditions does coral need to form?

A

1) Tropical conditions
2) Water 20C to 30C roughly
3) Unpolluted and clean water
4) Sunlight
5) Water less than 50 metres deep
6) Saltwater

43
Q

What is wave refraction?

A

Wave refraction is a process which amplifies other wave erosion processes. It is also where waves ‘bend’ around the headland.

Geography Term 3 (5 decks)

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