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milady esthetics > ch 13 - vocabulary / terms > Flashcards

ch 13 - vocabulary / terms Flashcards

1
Q

alpha hydroxy acids

A

-abbreviated AHAs
- acids derived from plants (mostly fruit) that are often used to exfoliate the skin
- mild acids: glycolic, lactic, malic, and tartaric acid
- exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix
- acids also stimulate cell renewal

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2
Q

alcohol

A
  • antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents
  • SD alcohol is a special denatured ethyl alcohol
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3
Q

algae

A
  • derived from minerals and phytohormones
  • remineralizes and revitalizes the skin
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4
Q

allantoin

A
  • anti-inflammatory compound isolated from the herb comfrey
  • used in creams, hand lotion, hair lotion, aftershave, and other skin-soothing cosmetics for its ability to heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue
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5
Q

aloe vera

A
  • most popular botanical used in cosmetic formulations
  • emollient and firm-forming gum resin with hydrating, softening, healing, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties
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6
Q

alpha lipoic acid

A
  • natural molecule found in every cell in the body
  • powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil
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7
Q

alum

A

compound made of aluminum, potassium, or ammonium sulfate with strong astringent action

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8
Q

ampoules

A

small, sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in a water or oil base

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9
Q

anhydrous

A

describes products that do not contain any water

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10
Q

aromatherapy

A
  • therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes
  • involves the use of highly concentrated, nonoily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service
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11
Q

astringents

A

liquids that help remove excess oil on the skin

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12
Q

azulene

A
  • derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color
  • has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties
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13
Q

benzyl peroxide

A

drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne

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14
Q

beta-glucans

A

ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen

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15
Q

beta hydroxy acids

A
  • abbreviated BHAs
  • exfoliating organic acid
  • salicylic acid
  • milder than alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
  • dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin
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16
Q

binders

A

substances such as glycerin that bind, or hold, products together

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17
Q

botanicals

A

ingredients derived from plants

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18
Q

calendula

A

anti-inflammatory plant extract

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19
Q

carbomers

A
  • ingredients used to thicken creams
  • frequently used in gel products
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20
Q

carrot

A
  • rich in vitamin A
  • commonly derived from seeds and as an oil
  • used as product colorant
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21
Q

certified colors

A
  • inorganic color agents aka. metal salts
  • listed on ingredient labels as D&C (drug and cosmetic)
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22
Q

chamomile

A

plant extract with calming and soothing properties

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23
Q

chelating agent

A

chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative

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24
Q

chemical exfoliation

A

chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or “glue”, that holds them together (desmosomes)

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25
Q

clay masks

A

oil-absorbing cleansing masks that draw impurities to the surface of the skin as they dry and tighten

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26
Q

cleansers

A

soaps and detergents that clean the skin

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27
Q

coenzyme Q10

A

powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalizes skin cells

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28
Q

colorants

A

substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color

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29
Q

comedogenicity

A

tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a buildup in the follicle, leading to the development of a comedo (blackhead)

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30
Q

cosmeceuticals

A

products intended to improve the skin’s health and appearance

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31
Q

cosmetics

A

as defined by the FDA: articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance

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32
Q

delivery systems

A

systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis

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33
Q

detergents

A

type of surfactant used as cleansers in skin-cleansing products

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34
Q

DMAE

A
  • dimethylaminoethanol
  • antioxidant that stabilizes cell membranes and boosts the effect of other antioxidants
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35
Q

echinacea

A
  • derivative of the purple coneflower
  • prevents infection and has healing properties
  • used internally to support the immune system
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36
Q

emollients

A

oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturize, and precent water loss

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37
Q

emulsifers

A
  • surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion
  • an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend
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38
Q

enzyme peels

A

enzyme products that dissolve keratin proteins (dead skin cells) and exfoliate the skin

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39
Q

essential oils

A
  • oils derived from herbs
  • have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche
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40
Q

exfoliants

A

mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin

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41
Q

exfoliation

A

peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin

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42
Q

fatty acids

A
  • emollients
  • lubricant ingredients derived form plant oils or animal fats
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43
Q

fatty alcohols

A
  • emollients - fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen
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44
Q

fatty esters

A

emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols

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45
Q

fragrances

A

give products their scent

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46
Q

fresheners

A

skin-freshening lotions with a low alcohol content

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47
Q

functional ingredients

A
  • ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel
  • preservatives are also functional ingredients
48
Q

glycerin

A
  • formed by a decomposition of oils or fats
  • excellent skin softener and humectant
  • very strong water binder
  • sweet, colorless, oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams
49
Q

glycoproteins

A

skin-conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing

50
Q

gommage

A
  • aka. roll-off mask
  • exfoliating creams that are rubbed off the skin
51
Q

grapeseed extract

A

powerful antioxidant with soothing properties

52
Q

green tea

A
  • powerful antioxidant and soothing agent
  • antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and a stimulant
53
Q

healing agents

A

substances such as chamomile or aloe that help to heal the skin

54
Q

herbs

A
  • hundreds of different herbs that contain phytohormones are used in skin care products and cosmetics
  • they heal, stimulate, soothe, and moisturize
55
Q

horsechestnut

A
  • extract containing bioflavonoids; aka. vitamin P
    -helps strengthen capillary walls
  • used for couperose areas or telangiectasia
56
Q

humectants

A
  • ingredients that attract water
  • draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dryness
57
Q

hydrators

A

ingredients that attract water to the skin’s surface

58
Q

hydrophilic agents

A

ingredients that attract water to the skin’s surface

59
Q

jojoba

A
  • oily widely used in cosmetics
  • extracted from the bean-like seeds of the desert shrub
  • used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer
60
Q

keratolytic

A

agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing, of skin cells

61
Q

kojic acid

A

skin-brightening agent

62
Q

lakes

A

insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material

63
Q

lanolin

A
  • emollient with moisturizing properties
  • also an emulsifier with high water-absorption capabilities
64
Q

lavender

A

antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing, and healing

65
Q

licorice

A
  • anti-irritant used for sensitive skin
  • helps lighten pigmentation
66
Q

lipids

A
  • fats or fat-like substances
  • lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin
67
Q

liposomes

A

closed-lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release

68
Q

lubricants

A
  • coat the skin and reduce friction
  • mineral oil is a lubricant
69
Q

mask

A
  • aka. pack or masques
  • concentrated treatment products often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish and treat the skin
70
Q

mechanical exfoliation

A

physical method of rubbing dead cells off of the skin

71
Q

methylparaben

A
  • one of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential
  • combats bacteria and molds
  • noncomedogenic
72
Q

mineral oil

A

lubricant derived from petroleum

73
Q

modelage masks

A
  • aka. thermal masks
  • thermal heat masks
  • facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient
74
Q

mositerizers

A

products formulated to add moisture to the skin

75
Q

noncertified colors

A
  • colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts
  • they can also be natural mineral pigments
76
Q

oil soluble

A

compatible with oil

77
Q

olfactory system

A

gives us our sense of smell, which is the strongest of the five senses

78
Q

papaya

A

natural enzymes used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels

79
Q

parabens

A
  • one of the most commonly used group of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries
  • provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against a diverse number of organisms
80
Q

paraffin wax masks

A

mask used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients though the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin

81
Q

peptides

A
  • chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen, and improve skin’s firmness
  • larger chains are called polypeptides
82
Q

performance ingredients

A

ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin

83
Q

petroleum jelly

A
  • occlusive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding in water
  • used after laser surgery to protect the skin while healing
84
Q

pH adjusters

A

acids or alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products

85
Q

phytotherapy

A

use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits

86
Q

polyglucans

A

ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate the metabolism
- also hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin

87
Q

polymers

A
  • chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers) into long chain-like structures
  • advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin’s surface at a microscopically controlled rate
88
Q

potassium hydroxide

A

strong alkali used in soaps and creams

89
Q

preservatives

A
  • chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations
  • kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling
90
Q

propylene glycol

A

humectant often used in dry- or sensitive-skin moisturizers

91
Q

quaternium 15

A
  • all-purpose preservative active against bacteria, mold, and yeast
  • greatest formaldehyde-releaser among cosmetic preservatives
  • may cause dermatitis and allergies
92
Q

retinol

A
  • natural form of vitamin A
  • stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells
93
Q

rose

A
  • credited with moisturizing, astringent, tonic, and deodorant properties
  • found in the forms of rose extracts, oil, and water
94
Q

salicylic acid

A
  • beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties
  • natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen
95
Q

seaweed

A
  • derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties
  • known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness
96
Q

serums

A

concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions

97
Q

silicones

A

oil that is chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and leaves a noncomedogenic, protective film on the surface of the skin

98
Q

sodium bicarbonate

A
  • baking soda
  • an alkaline inorganic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer, and a pH adjuster
99
Q

sorbitol

A

humectant that absorbs moisture from the air to prevent skin dryness

100
Q

sphingolipids

A
  • ceramides, or lipid material, that are a natural part of the intercellular matrix
  • glycosphingolipids and phospholipids are also natural lipids found in the barrier layer
101
Q

squalane

A
  • derived from olives
  • desensitizes and nourishes
  • an emollient
102
Q

squalane

A
  • derived from olives
  • desensitizes and nourishes
  • an emollient
102
Q

squalane

A
  • derived from olives
  • desensitizes and nourishes
  • an emollient squalene
103
Q

squalene

A
  • originally from shark liver oil
  • also occurs in small amounts of olive oil, wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil
  • found in human sebum
  • lubricant and perfume fixative
104
Q

stem cells

A
  • derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells
  • for health and antiaging benefits
105
Q

sulfur

A
  • sulfur reduces oil-gland activity and dissolves the skin’s surface layer of dry, dead cells
  • commonly used in acne products
106
Q

sun protection factor

A
  • abbreviated SPF
  • ability of a product to delay sun-induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage
  • SPF rating is based only on UVB protection, not UVA exposure
107
Q

tea tree

A
  • soothing and antiseptic
  • antifungal properties
108
Q

tissue respiratory factor

A
  • abbreviated TRF
  • ingredient derived from yeast cells that functions as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizing ingredient
109
Q

titanium dioxide

A

inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation

110
Q

toners

A
  • aka. fresheners or astringents
  • liquids designed to tone and tighten the skin’s surface
111
Q

urea

A
  • properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances
  • anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin’s surface and helps maintain healthy skin
112
Q

vehicles

A

spreading agents and ingredients that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective

113
Q

water soluble

A

mixable with water

114
Q

witch hazel

A
  • extracted from the bark of the hamanelis shrub
  • can be a soothing agent or, in higher concentrations, an astringent
115
Q

zinc oxide

A
  • inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UVA radiation
  • also used to protect, soothe, and heal the skin
  • is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial

milady esthetics (46 decks)

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