207: Cosmeceuticals and Skin Care in Dermatology Flashcards
(110 cards)
What are the four main facial skin issues focused on in a phenotypic approach to skin care?
The four main facial skin issues are: 1. Skin hydration 2. Inflammation 3. Pigmentation 4. Skin aging risk factors
What is xerosis and what are its characteristics?
Xerosis, or ‘dry skin’, is characterized by: - Dull color (gray white) - Rough texture - Elevated number of ridges - Sensation of tightness or itching - Poor reflection of light due to rough surface - Multifactorial etiology, with the stratum corneum (SC) skin barrier being the most significant factor in its development.
What are the primary components of the stratum corneum (SC) bilayer lipid membrane?
The stratum corneum (SC) bilayer lipid membrane is composed of three primary groups of compounds in a (1:1:1) ratio: 1. Ceramides 2. Fatty acids 3. Cholesterol
How does transepidermal water loss (TEWL) affect the skin?
TEWL leads to: - Decreased water content in the SC - Abnormal desquamation of corneocytes - Visible clumps of keratinocytes, making skin appear rough and dry - Localized changes in pH affecting skin care product efficacy
What factors can impair the lipid bilayer of the stratum corneum?
Impairment of the lipid bilayer of the SC can be caused by: - Ultraviolet (UV) radiation - Detergents - Acetone - Chlorine - Prolonged water immersion - Incorrect choice of skin cleansers and moisturizers - Overzealous use of exfoliating methods
What is the role of sebum production in skin health?
Sebum production provides an occlusive layer on the skin surface that: - Retards transepidermal water loss (TEWL) - Contains wax esters, cholesterol, triglycerides, squalene, and vitamin E, which protect the skin from environmental insults and free radicals.
How does sebum production change throughout different life stages?
Sebum production changes as follows: 1. Low during childhood 2. Rising in the mid- to late teens 3. Generally stable for decades until it starts to decline in the 7th and 8th decades of life due to decreased androgen production.
What is the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) and how is it produced?
NMF provides intracellular hydration and is derived from the breakdown of the protein filaggrin. It is broken down into free osmotically active amino acids, including histidine, glutamine, and arginine, which bind to water. The breakdown pace is regulated by aspartate protease (cathepsin), influenced by external humidity levels.
A patient with oily skin complains of dryness on their arms and legs. How should you address this?
Treat the oily facial skin with appropriate products but use barrier repair moisturizers on areas with fewer sebaceous glands, like the arms and legs.
What are Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and their role in skin hydration?
Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), such as hyaluronic acid and heparan sulfate, bind and hold water, providing skin hydration and structural integrity. They play a crucial role in skin hydration and aging, although their exact mechanisms are still being researched.
What is the significance of Hyaluronic Acid (HA) in skin hydration?
Hyaluronic Acid (HA) can bind 1000 times its weight in water, contributing to skin volume and plumpness. It is produced mainly by fibroblasts and keratinocytes and has an estimated turnover rate of 2 to 4.5 days in mammals, playing a vital role in maintaining skin hydration.
How does Heparan Sulfate (HS) contribute to skin health?
Heparan Sulfate (HS) serves primarily as a humectant, bringing water to the skin surface. It is linked to skin rejuvenation by increasing the skin’s ability to hold onto water and restoring skin homeostasis, although it is too large to penetrate the skin when applied topically.
What is Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) and its role in skin hydration?
Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is a water channel that facilitates fluid transport in the skin. It helps maintain transepidermal water permeability, protecting the skin against desiccation and potentially treating skin disorders related to hydration.
What are the ideal characteristics of skin according to the skin care parameter?
Ideal skin is characterized by balanced sebum secretion, an intact stratum corneum (SC) with an unbroken barrier, sufficient levels of Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) and GAGs, and normal expression of AQP3.
What types of ingredients are recommended for moisturizers for topical skin care?
Recommended ingredients for moisturizers include: 1. Barrier Repair: Ceramides, Cholesterol, Fatty acids, MLE technology 2. Occlusives: Oils (Argan, Safflower, etc.), Silicones, Petrolatum, etc. 3. Humectants: α-Hydroxy acids, Glycerin, Hyaluronic acid, Urea, etc.
What type of cleanser is preferable for oily skin types?
For oily skin types, a foaming cleanser containing surfactants is preferable to effectively remove excess lipids and provide a clean feeling to the skin.
What type of cleanser is recommended for dry skin types?
For dry skin types, a nonfoaming cleanser such as an oil, cream, or milk cleanser is recommended, as it helps deposit fatty acids on the skin, thereby repairing the skin barrier.
What role does the pH of a cleanser play in skin barrier function?
The pH of the cleanser plays a crucial role in skin barrier function. Soap cleansers that exhibit a high pH have been consistently shown to perturb the skin barrier. In contrast, dry skin types need a neutral or acidic cleanser, while oily skin types that do not exhibit inflammation can tolerate a higher-pH soap-type cleanser.
What are the effects of mechanical exfoliants on the skin?
Mechanical exfoliants, such as crushed shells, sugar, or aluminum particles, promote an immediate visual improvement of the skin. However, overuse can lead to barrier impairment, making it essential to combine them with barrier repair moisturizers for lasting benefits.
What is the recommended moisturizer for oily skin types?
Oily skin types should use a lighter lotion or serum-type moisturizer. They may also prefer humectant-containing moisturizers, such as those with hyaluronic acid and heparan sulfate analog, while avoiding heavy creams and oils.
What is the function of emollients in skin care?
Emollients are substances added to immediately soften and smooth the skin. They function by filling the spaces between desquamating corneocytes to create a smooth surface, which enhances light reflection and provides immediate visible improvement.
How do occlusives affect skin hydration?
Occlusives coat the surface of the skin and provide an emollient effect, helping to increase the penetration of previously applied ingredients and decrease transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Ingredients with high occlusive properties include petrolatum and oils.
What are humectants and how do they function in skin care?
Humectants are ingredients with high water absorption capabilities that attract water from the atmosphere. They are most effective in high humidity conditions and can help hydrate the skin, but their effects are temporary, usually lasting less than 24 hours.
What impact do medications have on skin type and sebum production?
Medications can affect skin type by changing sebum production rates or disrupting the skin barrier by affecting lipid production. For example, oral ketoconazole and spironolactone have been shown to decrease sebum secretion, while some cholesterol-lowering medications may increase the risk of dry skin.
