3.2- Sources of energy at the coast- systems and processes Flashcards
(105 cards)
The energy to drive the coastal system is provided by
Waves, wind, tides and currents
Describe wind
Wind is the movement of air from one place to another. Air moves from areas of high atmospheric pressure to areas of low atmospheric pressure- this movement is known as wind. The greater the pressure gradient between 2 places, the stronger the wind
Variations in atmospheric pressure primarily reflect differences in surface heating by the
Sun
Wind is a vital input into the coastal system as it is a primary source of energy for other processes, but is also an important agent of
Erosion and transportation
What are the features of wind as an input into the coastal system
- fetch
- wind is an agent of erosion
- wind is an important agent of moving sediment
Explain how spatial variations in energy result from variations in the strength and duration of the wind
Where wind speeds are persistently high and uninterrupted, wave energy is likely to be higher. Although local weather patterns may influence short-term changes in wind speed and direction, most coastlines will have a prevailing wind direction. That is, the wind will generally reach the coast from one direction. This is important as it is one factor that controls the direction that waves approach the coastline and also the direction of the transport of material in the coastal zone.
Explain fetch
Refers to the distance of open water over which a wind blows interrupted by major land obstacles. The length of the fetch helps to determine the magnitude and energy of the waves reaching the coast. The longer the fetch, the more powerful the waves
In the U.K. The prevailing (most usual) direction is from the ____-____. Before reaching our coast, the winds have blown over the broad expanse of the Atlantic Ocean- this means that the wind has blown over 3000 miles of open water
South-West
Explain how wind plays a vital role in wave formation
Waves are created by the transfer of energy from the wind blowing over the sea surface, referred to as the frictional drag of the wind.
The energy acquired by waves depends upon the strength of
The wind, the length of time it is blowing and the fetch
Wind is also an agent of erosion as
It can pick up and remove sediment e.g. sand from the coast and then use it to erode features- the most common type of wind erosion is abrasion
Wind is an important agent of moving sediment along the coast or further inland and beyond the shoreline as
It can pick up and transport material
How are waves formed?
As air moves across the water, frictional drag disturbs the surface and forms ripples or waves. In the open sea there is little horizontal movement of water. Instead, there is an orbital motion of the water particles
What are key wave characteristics?
- wave height
- wavelength or amplitude
- wave frequency or wave period
What is wave height?
Height difference between a wave crest and the neighbouring trough
What is wavelength?
Difference between successive crests
What is wave frequency?
The time between one crest and the following crest passing a fixed point
Why do waves break?
- as waves approach shallow water, the circular orbit of the water particles changes to an elliptical shape
- the wavelength and the velocity both decrease and the wave height increases due to friction with the seabed also increasing causing water to break up from behind and rise to a point where it starts to topple over (break)
- the water rushes up the beach as swash and flows back as backwash
Once waves have been created by the wind they are the main agent that shapes the
Coastline. Waves breaking at the coast can build up or remove materials depending on their characteristics
What are constructive waves?
Waves with a low wave height, but with a long wavelength and low frequency of around 6-8/min. Their swash tends to be more powerful than their backwash and as a consequence, beach material is built up
What are destructive waves?
Waves with a high wave height with a steep form and high frequency (10-14/min). Their swash is gradually stronger than their backwash, so more sediment is removed than is added.
Explain the characteristics of constructive waves
- tend to have low wave height but with a long wavelength often up to 100m
- low frequency around 6-8/min
- add to beach deposition as their swash pushes more materials from offshore up the beach than backwash removes.
- material is slowly, but constantly moved up the beach leading to the formation of ridges (berms)
- as the backwash is reduced, the following swash is less impeded in its movement up the beach
Explain the characteristics of destructive waves
- have high wave height with a steep form and high frequency around 10-14/min
- powerful backwash as when they approach the beach they rapidly steepen and when breaking they plunge down- also inhibits the swash from the next wave
- very little material is moved up the beach, leaving the backwash to pull material back down the beach
- net effect is removal of beach material along the shoreline
- commonly associated with steeper beach profile
- the force of each wave may project some shingle well towards the rear of the beach where it forms a large ridge known as the storm beach
Give an example of negative feedback regarding beaches and waves
Where constructive waves operate to build up a beach, eventually the beach profile steepens which encourages destructive waves (plunging rather than surging) which then removes material from the beach and deposit it offshore. This in turn can result in the beach profile becoming less steep again, encouraging constructive rather than destructive waves to form. All things being equal, this will continue until a state of dynamic equilibrium is reached