Skin Care Products: Chemistry, Ingredients & Selection

Question 1

Carbomers

Answer 1

Gellant / Thickener- used to thicken creams and are frequently used in gel products

Question 2

Chelating Agent (preservative)

Answer 2

Chemical that is added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative.

Cheating agents work by breaking down the cell walls of bacteria and other micro organisms

These ingredients are used in small quantities

Question 3

Antioxidants.

Answer 3

Substances that inhibit oxidation reactions. They are used to help the condition of the skin by combating free radicals as well as stopping the oxidation that causes products to turn rancid and spoil.

Common antioxidants used as preservatives are Ascorbic acid, BHA, BHT and tocopherol (vitaminE)

Question 4

FDA

Answer 4

FDA views cosmetics according to the Cosmetic Act of 1938, which distinguishes between frustrated and cosmetics

Question 5

Functional Ingredients

Answer 5

Make up the majority of a product ; allows products to spread, give them body and texture, and a specific form such as a lotion, cream or gel

Question 6

Performance Ingredients

Answer 6

Performance ingredients cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin

Performance ingredients are sometimes referred to as active agents

Question 7

Water

Answer 7

Water makes up a large part of the skin. It is the most frequently used cosmetic ingredient – it’s a vehicle and a performance ingredient

Helps keep cosmetic ingredients in products and helps spread products across skin

Question 8

Anhydrous

Answer 8

Products that do not contain any water
Oil based serums, petrolatum based products ( lip balm, and silicone serums)

Anhydrous products are designed for DRY skin

Question 9

Plant Oil

Answer 9

Plant oils contain fatty acids which are beneficial for skin that does not produce enough sebum

Plant oils vary in fatty acid content and heaviness.

Coconut oil and palm Oil are two of the fattiest and heaviest oils

Question 10

Fatty alcohols

Answer 10

Fatty alcohols have a wax like consistency and are used as emollients or spreading agents

Question 11

Fatty esters

Answer 11

Fatty Esters are produced from combining fatty acids and fatty alcohols

Fatty esters are easily recognized on labels because they almost always end in -ate-

Question 12

Surfactants

Answer 12

Surfactants reduce the tension between the skin and the product and increase the spreadability of the cosmetic product

Question 13

Certified Colors

Answer 13

Certified colors are Synthetic, inorganic and known as metal salts.

These are colorants that have been batch certified and approved by the FDA

Question 14

Exempt Colors

Answer 14

Exempt colors are those colors that do not require certification, include zinc oxide, iron oxides, carmine, mica and the ultramarine colors

Question 15

Exfoliants

Answer 15

Exfoliants are mechanical and chemical ingredients that exfoliate the skin

Mechanical exfoliating ingredients are add to products to physically scrape dead cells from the skins surface.

The ingredients include: jojoba beads, ground nuts- almonds, and various seeds

Question 16

Exfoliation

Answer 16

Exfoliation can also be achieved through chemical action with the use of
alpha hydroxyl acids
Beta hydroxyl acids

Question 17

Beta hydroxyl acids

Answer 17

Salicylic acid is a BHA which is not as strong as an AHA

Question 18

Alpha Hydroxyl acid

Answer 18

Gylcolic, lactic, malic, citric and tartaric acids are all AHA

Citric acid is mild form of an AHA because of it chemical composition

Question 19

Paraffin Wax Masks

Answer 19

Paraffin masks are used to warm the ski and promote penetration of ingredients deeper into the skin through the heat trapped under the paraffin

It has plumping and softening effect on the skin

Question 20

Topical ingredients

Answer 20

Topical ingredients need to have a high-tech delivery system, such as liposomes, to carry or deliver the ingredients effectively into the skin

Question 21

Phototherapy

Answer 21

Phototherapy is the use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits.

Question 22

Cocoa butter

Answer 22

Cocoa butter –myristyl lactate–laity alcohol

Question 23

Witch hazel

Answer 23

Witch hazel made from hamamelis shrub; good for toning the skin

Works as an astringent & antiseptic

Question 24

Eucalyptus

Answer 24

Made from the gun tree; used for acne and oily skin

Antiseptic, anyimicrobial, astringent, stimulating

Question 25

Cucumber

Answer 25

Commonly used for masks and the eye area to reduce puffiness

Antiseptic soothing

Question 26

Chamomile

Answer 26

Plant extract used for sensitive skin

Calming, anti-inflammatory

Question 27

Sulfur (drying agent)

Answer 27

Sulfur reduces oil-gland activity and dissolves the skin’s surface layer of dry, dead cells..

This ingredient is commonly used in acne products. It can cause allergic skin reactions in some sensitive people and those allergic to sulfur or sulfates

Question 28

Salicylic acid

Answer 28

A beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties, it’s natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark and wintergreen

Check for client allergies to this acid and to aspirin

Question 29

Liposomes

Answer 29

Closed-lipid bilateral spheres that encapsulate ingredients, targeting their delivery to specific tissues of the skin and controlling their release

Question 30

FDA

Answer 30

FDA regulates cosmetics only in the area of safety, labeling, and the claims made for a product

Question 31

Examples of inorganic sunscreen

Answer 31

Titanium dioxide

Zinc oxide

Question 32

pH adjusters

Answer 32

Act As Buffers;

Citric acid,?sodium bicarbonate

Question 33

Antioxidants

Answer 33

Vitamins amino acids and other natural substances that neutralize the damaging effects of free radicals

Question 34

Home care products

Answer 34

While professional products may cost more initially, they are usually more effective due to a higher concentration of performance ingredients —
Less product is needed

Question 35

Treatment creams

Answer 35

Referred to as nourishing creams, designed to moisturize and condition the skin -

Especially during sleep when normal tissue repair is taking place

Question 36

Modelage or Thermal Masks

Answer 36

Contain special crystals of gypsum, a plastic like ingredient.. Modelage masks are used with nourishing products underneath

Question 37

Peptides

Answer 37

Chains of amino acids used in skin care products to produce changes in the skin’s appearance.

Peptides have been shown to hep aging skinny improving tissue repair and skin functions such as cell and fibroblasts activity.

Peptides enhances : collagen? Elasticity and skin firmness

Question 38

Glycoproteins

Answer 38

Glycoproteins are also Glycopolypeptides, (yeast cell derivative) found to enhance immune response and cellular metabolism, which boost oxygen uptake in the cell.
Revitalizing capacity strengthens the skin’s natural ability to protect itself

Question 39

Enzymes

Answer 39

Papain, bromeliad, and pancreatic are used in exfoliating products..
These ingredients are designed to dissolve keratin proteins on the surface of the skin to make it softer, smoother, and help maintain the hydration level of the epidermis.