Alat, Alon, at Hangin (part 5)

Question 1

Result of forces acting on the surface of the water

Answer 1

waves

Question 2

Does not represent a flow of water but a flow of energy or
motion

Answer 2

waves

Question 3

occurs when the crest of one wave meets the
trough of another, and the sea surface ends up intermediate between the two

Answer 3

wave cancellation

Question 4

If the crests of two waves collide, however, they add together to produce a higher wave

Answer 4

wave reinforcement

Question 5

occasionally produces rogue waves as tall as a 10-
story building that seem to come up out of nowhere

Answer 5

wave reinforcements

Question 6

A force that disturbs the water’s surface, such as a stone dropped into the water or wind blowing across the water’s surface, is called a

Answer 6

generating force.

Question 7

The raised surface then falls back down and creates a depression in the surface

Answer 7

depression

Question 8

The force that causes the water to return to the undisturbed level is called the

Answer 8

restoring force

Question 9

Small waves are referred to as

Answer 9

capillary waves

Question 10

When the amount of water displaced is sizable, the restoring force is gravity and the waves are referred to as

Answer 10

gravity waves

Question 11

results from the interactions between generating forces and restoring forces

Answer 11

wave

Question 12

wavelength of capillary waves

Answer 12

< 1.73 cm

Question 13

wavelength of gravity waves

Answer 13

> 1.73 cm

Question 14

formed by local storm centers or by the prevailing winds of the wind belts,
(trade winds or westerlies)

Answer 14

progressive wave

Question 15

As wind waves are formed by the storm, they are forced to increase in size and speed by the input of energy from the storm;

Answer 15

forced waves

Question 16

When the energy from a storm or other generating force no longer has an effect on the waves, they become

Answer 16

free waves

Question 17

long-period, uniform waves are called

Answer 17

Swells

Question 18

While the wind is blowing it pushes the wave
crests up into sharp peaks and “stretches out”
the troughs. Waves like this are called _

Answer 18

seas

Question 19

have smoothly rounded crests and
troughs, and very similar to the ideal waves

Answer 19

swells

Question 20

Eventually swell become so high and so steep
that they fall forward and break, creating __

Answer 20

surf

Question 21

Waves that occur in water that is deeper than one half of a wave’s wavelength are called _

Answer 21

deep-water waves

Question 22

If the wind speed is low, the waves will be __, regardless of the duration or the fetch.

Answer 22

small

Question 23

True or False:

A strong wind blowing for a short time does not produce large waves even if the fetch is large.

Answer 23

True

Question 24

If a strong wind blows for a long time over a short fetch, the waves are _.

Answer 24

small

Question 25

Large waves are produced only when all three factors are of HIGH MAGNITUDE. What are the 3 factors?

Answer 25

(windspeed, wind duration, and fetch)

Question 26

When a deep-water wave enters shallow water it becomes a _

Answer 26

shallow-water wave

Question 27

depth of the water is less than half the wavelength

Answer 27

shallow-water wave

Question 28

the area along a coast where waves slow down, become steeper, break, and disappear.

Answer 28

surf zone

Question 29

form in the surf zone when the bottom of the wave slows but its crest continues moving toward the shore at a speed faster than that of the wave.

Answer 29

breakers

Question 30

two most common types of breakers

Answer 30

plungers and spillers

Question 31

form when the beach slope is steep crest curls and curves over and outruns the rest of the wave.

Answer 31

Plunging breakers

Question 32

more common and are found on flatter beaches, where the energy is dissipated more gradually as the wave moves over the shallow bottom

Answer 32

Spilling breakers

Question 33

last longer than plungers because they lose energy more gradually

Answer 33

Spilling breakers

Question 34

Sudden movements of the earth’s crust produce earthquakes, which may produce large seismic sea waves, or _

Answer 34

tsunamis

Question 35

The sudden increase in energy causes the height of the wave to increase dramatically, and the energy rapidly dissipates as the water races over the land mass

Answer 35

Tsunamis

Question 36

The periodic changes in water level that occur along coast lines are called

Answer 36

Tides

Question 37

Result of the gravitational pull exerted on the water of the oceans by the moon and the sun

Answer 37

tides

Question 38

An opposing _ pulls the center of mass of the earth–moon system away from the sun.

Answer 38

centrifugal force

Question 39

For the earth–moon system to remain in orbit around the sun, the __ must equal the centrifugal force.

Answer 39

gravitational force

Question 40

* Full tidal cycle takes

Answer 40

24 hours and 50 minutes

Question 41

only one high tide and one low tide each day.

Answer 41

diurnal tide

Question 42

*Two high tides and two low tides each day

Answer 42

semidiurnal tide

Question 43

*the two high tides are the same height and the two low tides are at about the same level

Answer 43

semidiurnal tide

Question 44

*If the high and low tides are at different levels, it is referred to as

Answer 44

mixed semidiurnal tides

Question 45

_ the greatest height to which the high tide rises and the lowest point is called _.

Answer 45

greatest height - high water lowest height - low water

Question 46

Rising tide is a

Answer 46

FLOOD TIDE

Question 47

Falling tide is an

Answer 47

EBB TIDE