Argentina Flashcards
Recent History
Much of the 20th century Argentina was isolated due to political issues. Domestic consumption sustained the industry but focused on high volume inexpensive wines from high yielding Criolla pink varieties: Cereza, Criolla Grande, and Criolla Chica and the white Pedro Gimenez. They dominated until recently and are still important.
In the 80’s and 90’s producers like Nicolas Catena started to look to export and focus on quality over quantity. Foreign investment and the arrival of consultants Michel Rolland, Alberto Antonini and Paul Hobbs, the industry began to modernize.
In the early 2000’s when the Peso was weak and their wines cheap, Argentina burst onto the scene. Now among top producing and exporting countries in the world. Driven mostly by Malbec, but now being recognized for Chard, Cab Sauv, Red blends, others.
Climate
Stretches 1,500km from Salta in north to Rio Negro in the south between 24 and 38S.
Influence of altitude and latitude is critical. At low latitudes, altitude is essential to ensure it is not too hot. Except for Patagonia, vineyards are in foothills of the Andes in the west with the lowest at 500 and many over 1,000m (highest at 3,300).
One impact of altitude is high diurnal ranges (over 20C in some). These cool nights extend the growing season and retain acidity and aroma. Low latitude and high altitude also has intense sunlight and high ultraviolet radiation for high tannin and anthocyanin.
Mostly continental climate and in the rainshadow of the Andes for low rainfall (less than 200mm in some). Irrigation is essential. Dry air reduces risk of disease as do strong winds blowing from the mountains along the valleys. The Zonda is a hot dry powerful wind that occurs in late spring early summer. Lowers humidity and can induce water stress. When very strong can disrupt flowering and fruit set or damage grapes. Trees (particularly poplars) may be grown for windbreaks.
Rain is typically in summer and hailstorms are a constant threat. Many use netting, but this is expensive so only for the best. Many own vineyards in diff areas to minimize the total loss. Frost is a sig risk in some areas of Mendoza, espec in flatter areas or bottom of slopes. An issue at high and low altitude.
Impacted by El Nino every two to ten years. Much higher than avg rain and more hailstorms. In 2016 it resulted in a 25% reduction and 40% in Mendoza.
Soils
Mostly alluvial soils with diff textures deposited by rivers from the Andes.
Larger stones with calcareous deposits dominate the higher altitudes near the Andes. Middle areas dominated by gravel, sand, silt. Deeper loamy clay soils, richer in nutrients, in lower areas.
Because of the dry continental climate there is little organic matter in the soil. This makes for very poor soils particularly in the higher areas. Optimal for low yields and high quality.
More attention being paid to how soil can impact wine. Deposits of calcareous soils found in Gaultallary and Paraje Altamira in Uco Valley and the Pedernal Valley in San Juan.
Vineyard Management
In 2017 200,000ha; over 300,000 in 70’s and 80’s. Falling domestic demand led to a vine pulling scheme (including some good Malbec). 30% of vineyards are over 40 years old and these Malbec, Bonarda, Semillon are prized.
Rivers like Mendoza and tributaries deliver pure meltwater from snow and glaciers in the Andes. Collected and distributed by a network of dams and irrigation channels that can date back to the 16th century.
Many use flood irrigation. Water is released at volume of a heavy storm. Some think it’s best for the free draining soils as it drains deeply. It is also cheap and so used in 70% of vineyards. Drip irrigation increasing. Cheaper for vineyards on slopes where flood would require releveling. Also in places where there isn’t enough avail water for flood. It’s also more efficient and sustainable for places where water shortages can be an issue (Mendoza, La Rioja, San Juan).
Both forms mimic nature giving more water in winter and less in summer. To ensure roots grow at depth and vine focuses on fruit development rather than shoots.
Traditionally high pergola (parral) to raise grapes from the heat an provide shade. Still widely used, particularly in warmer areas for Torrontes which needs shade to preserve acid and aroma. Also common for high yield varieties like Criolla Grande and Chica, Cereza, Pedro Gimenez. VSP is becoming more common as its better for modern technique and drip.
Phylloxera is present but not problematic. (likely due to sandy soils and arid climate). Vast majority of vines are ungrafted, but becoming more common because of nematode risk and some can provide drought resistance.
Little need for spraying, ideal for organic and biodynamic. Small numbers but growing.
Traditionally hand harvesting by casual laborers. But cost of living increasing and few people want this low paid work. Mechanical becoming more common.
Considerable improvements overall with foreign investment: drip irrigation, canopy management, clonal selection, soils, etc.
Grape Varieties
Historically dominated by high yielding pink criolla varieties: Cereza, Criolla Grande and Criolla Chica (Pais). Pink skins and lightly colored wine. Inexpensive wine for domestic market. Plantings falling but still 25% of vineyard area.
Malbec: 44,000ha Pink criolla's: 41,000ha Bonarda: 19,000ha Cab Sauv: 15,000 Syrah: 12,000 Pedro Gimenez: 10,000 Torrontes: 8,000 Chard: 6,000
Malbec
20% of vineyard area. Plantings up 250% since 2000 driven by success on export mkt.
Vigorous mid ripening grape. In warm sunny conditions deep color, full body, high soft tannin, high alcohol, blackberry and black plum. Style hugely successful on export market.
Wide range of styles. Inexpensive / mid fruity light, drunk young to structured age worthy that can command prem and super prices. Also used in blends with Bonarda, Bordeaux style blends, Syrah. Also Rose.
From cooler sites (altitude or latitude) lower alcohol, med plus acid, firm med plus tannin and fresh fruit (red and black) and floral or herbal. Warmer sites; fuller body, riper fruit, lower acid, softer tannin. Some may blend from diff areas to for diff characters, but single vineyard becoming more common.
Cuttings taken from France before Phylloxera for high quality material. Further honed by clonal research and massale selection. In general, smaller berries and bunches and softer tannins vs French Malbec.
Bonarda
Late ripening and mainly in San Juan and warmer areas of Mendoza. High yielding producing large volumes of inexpensive wine for domestic consumption. Can be better if yields are limited.
Deep color, red and black fruit, med plus acid, and med tannin and alcohol. Oak overwhelms it so if used, likely old or large. Popular blending partner for Malbec and Cab Sauv adding color and fruit.
Some are making more complex wines with riper fruit and spicy notes from lower yields and old vines. Maipu, Lujan de Cuyo and east of Mendoza.
Over 85% consumed domestically.
Other Reds
Cab Sauv: More susceptible to extreme temps and fungal diseases vs Malbec so site selection important. Typ blended with Malbec in some top wines. Increasingly Prem varietal wines. Ripe high tannins, blackcurrant, blackberry, spicy, without marked herbaceous character.
Syrah: Successful in hotter sites in Mendoza and San Juan; full body, high alcohol, ripe black fruits. More elegant in cooler areas.
Tempranillo; Merlot (Bordeaux blends but declining); Pinot (increasing, Patagonia and high elevation in Uco); Cab Franc (has potential), Petit Verdot, Tannat.
Red Winemaking
Traditionally fermented and matured in large oak, sometimes with a hint of oxidation. With foreign investment a shift to more modern international style. Later harvesting, temp control fermentation and maturation in new oak (typ French) for full body, ripe, fruity wines with oak flavors.
Now harvesting earlier for fresher fruit, higher acid, lower alcohol. Some experimentation with natural fermentation, whole bunch fermentation, gentler extraction, and maturation in a variety of vessels (new / old barrels, concrete, eggs), often blending parcels with diff treatments.
Sig growth in production of super prem wines with ageing potential. Catena Zapata, Vina Cobos, Achaval Ferrer.
Quality roses are emerging.
White Varieties
Pedro Gimenez (no relation to Spain’s Pedro Ximenez). is the most planted white. Neutral and makes simple wines for domestic consumption.
Potential for whites being recognized in cooler areas like high altitude in the Uco. Picking earlier, fermenting at cool temps for fruitier, higher acid, lower alcohol.
Chard widely planted and made in a range of styles. Premium from cool in the Uco with med plus to high acid, ripe stone and tropical, subtle spice from oak (range of old to new).
Semillon and Chenin Blanc traditionally cheap for domestic with some producers making higher quality. Sauv Blanc and Viognier showing promise
Torrontes
Three varieties called Torrontes: Torrontes Riojano; Torrontes Sanjuanino; Torrontes Mendocino. Torrontes Riojano is the best of the three and second most planted white.
Native natural cross between Muscat of Alexandria and Criolla Chica dating to 18th century. Strong floral aroma similar to Muscat. Vigorous, high yielding. Widely planted in Mendoza, San Juan and La Rioja. Early ripening so often over ripe for overly alcoholic wines without acidity and a bitter finish.
Recent improvements in viticulture and wine making have raised its profile. Reducing yields, earlier harvesting, and temp control during fermentation for fruitier (lemon, grapefruit, peach) rather than floral and fresher with lower alcohol.
Particularly successful in Cafayete (Salta) but also from other higher cooler vineyards like Uco.
Most should be drunk young, but some using a bit of new oak for more ageability. Usually varietal, but some blend with Sauv Blanc. Sweet late harvest also found.
Law and Regulation
Three tier system of geographic indicators.
IP (Indicacion de Procedencia): covering large areas
IG (Indicacion Geografica): for wines meeting certain quality from a specific geographical area that is capable of producing quality wines
DOC: for wines from a specific geographical area with legislated winemaking criteria. So far only two: Lujan de Cuyo and San Rafael; both in Mendoza and only a few producers use this category.
Sig number of GI’s created with several more coming with most corresponding to political boundaries but now more for specific characteristics like climate or soil.
Wines labeled with a GI or DOC must be exclusively from grapes in that area. If vintage dated must be 85%. If two or three varieties must be 85%.
Reserva wines aged 12mo (red) or 6 mo (white or rose). Gran Reserva twice as long.
Mendoza Province
Accounts for 75% of of total vineyard area and 2/3 of production. Main area is at the base of the Andes in the valley of the River Mendoza (which supplies water for irrigation). Increasingly extending into the foothills. Range from 500m in eastern plains to over 1,500m in the upper parts of the Uco Valley.
Black varieties are 60%, Whites 25%. Dominated by Malbec at over 1/3 of vineyard area (more than double since 2000).
Home to the only DOC’s and more GI’s than any other province. One GI covers whole province and most departments have their own GI. And more being created.
Broadly split into five divisions: Northern, Eastern, Central, Uco Valley, and Southern. Uco is the only GI but each has their own characters. Grapes are often blended across the divisions.
Northern and Eastern Mendoza
In the plains of the Mendoza River Valley, relatively low at 500 - 700m.
Water for irrigation from the Mendoza River (northern) and Tunuyan River (eastern).
Warm conditions and plentiful water means large volumes of inexpensive wine can be made.
Some higher quality from lower yields; particularly from Tempranillo and Bonarda.
Central Mendoza
Also known as Primera Zone because it has the longest history of producing high quality wine in Argentina.
Home to many leading producers. Vineyards between 600 and 1,100 for a wide range of grapes and styles.
Malbec dominates, but Cab Sauv, Syrah, and Tempranillo also do well. Increasing whites from cooler areas.
Within Central are Lujan de Cuyo and Maipu.
