Portugal

Question 1

Climate

Answer 1

The western part is strongly influenced by the Atlantic bringing cool rainy weather (particularly northwest). This can impact flowering and fruitset, fungal diseases, harvest.

Mountain ranges protect the inland northerly regions giving them a continental climate and a drier growing season.

The warmer drier south is characterized by rolling hills and plains.

With climate change, drought has been a noticeable factor especially in inland continental areas like Douro, Dao, Alentejo.

Extreme events like hailstorms (Douro) and wildfires (Dao 2017)

Question 2

Soil types

Answer 2

Schist and granite in the mountainous regions (Vinho Verde, Douro, Dao) and hilly outcrops in Alentejo.

Further south (Bairrada, Lisboa, Tejo, Peninsula de Setubal) have more varied soils. Some clay with limestone; some sandy

Fertile alluvial soils around riverbanks like in Tejo

Question 3

General Viticulture

Answer 3

190,000 ha down from 275,000 in 1989. A lot of high producing areas on alluvial soils in Tejo and Vinho Verde were grubbed up after EU ascension

Replanting focusing on quality material and sites.

Esca and Grapemoth are common hazards.

Majority are cordon and spur pruned or replacement cane VSP. A sig number of old bush vines can be found in Douro and Alentejo and a smaller number in Dao and Bairrada. Usually in a field blend. Modern are one variety or varietal blocks.

Irrigation is now generally allowed with some areas having light controls. Generally only allowed when a lack of water could jeopardize quality not for boosting yields.

2,700ha by 500 growers are certified organic. Many more tend organically but do not feel certification is worth it.

Question 4

Grapes

Answer 4

Aragonez / Tinta Roriz: 21,000
Touriga Franca: 14,000
Touriga Nacional: 13,000
Fernao Pires / Maria Gomes (W): 12,000
Castelao (R): 9,000
Trincadeira: 9,000
Baga: 8,000
Loureiro: 6,000
Arinto / Pedema (W): 5,000
Syrah:  5,000
Roupeiro (W): 5,000
Alicante Bouschet: 5,000

Question 5

Wine Laws & Regulations

Answer 5

DOC/DOP: Traditional Denominacao de Origem Controlada (DOC) and modern Denominacao de Origem Protegida are widely used.

30 DOC’s each with own regulations. All must be officially tested, tasted, approved.

VR: Vinho Regional is widely used term for PGI wines.

14 VR’s with less stringent regulations. Often permit international varieties.

Vinho: wines that are not PDO or PGI

Question 6

Wine Business

Answer 6

Grape growing is 35% of the national agricultural output (highest in world).

Still unfortified wine production 5.8mhL in 2017.

Until the Carnation Revolution of 1974 grapes were sold to coops who made bulk wine that was shipped to former colonies in Africa. High vol brands like Mateus Rose and Lancers and Vinho Verde’s Casal Garcia are still sourced from growers who do not make wine.

Sogrape is a negociant that has acquired leading Port brands and estates in Vinho Verde, Douro, Dao, Alentejo, Lisboa. Largest wine co in Portugal (bigger than next seven combined).

Coops (73) are declining in number as many growers become producers to add value to their crop.

Steady growth in domestic and exports.

Question 7

Vinho Verde Basic

Answer 7

Northwest corner of Portugal. Atlantic on the west, River Minho (forming border with Spain) in the north, and mountains of Peneda-Geres National Park to the east. Extends just bast Douro in the south.

Covers 15,000 ha and split into 9 sub regions.

The PGI is called Minho and has identical boundaries. but production is much smaller than Vinho Verde.

Question 8

Vinho Verde Climate and Viticulture

Answer 8

Moderate maritime climate due to Atlantic and network of river valleys that funnel Atlantic wind.

As land rises to the east soils become poorer and climate more continental. Here warmer drier sub regions like Baiao and Moncao e Melgaco lend to later ripening like Avesso and produce wines with more body and alcohol like Alvarinho

Rainfall at 1,500 throughout the year. Vintage variation marked with implications for ripening and yield (936,000 hL in 2017 and 727,000 in 2018).

Much on granitic bedrock with shallow topsoil of decomposed granite with sandy texture for good drainage. Fertility is low so fertilizers like manure commonly used.

Fungal diseases like rot and mildew are a problem. Traditionally trained up trees for air circulation. Most modern are now in rows with replacement cane (single or double) VSP or Lyre. All relatively high off ground for air. Summer pruning for productive varieties to enhance ripening and circulation.

Question 9

Vinho Verde Grapes

Answer 9

In late 1960’s over 80% was red; in 2008 70% was white and by 2018 80% was white; 15% red, 5% rose.

Loureiro (aka Loureira in Rias Baixas) is most planted. Grown widely but mainly near coast. Mid ripening, med plus acid, and citrus, pear, floral, and herbal.

Pederna (local name for Arinto) is 2nd. mid ripening and relatively productive. Less aromatic with subtle citrus, and apple, and high acid.

Alvarinho is third (Albarino). Citrus, peach, tropical; med plus body, med plus to high acid. Traditionally almost all in north of region in Moncao e Melgaco. Now it’s high quality has led to plantings in other regions and allowed to be a named variety on labels since 2016.

Avesso is late ripening and can fail to ripen unless it is relatively warm and dry. Grown inland and in south, particularly Baiao where it is slightly warmer and drier. Lower acid than others, full body, citrus and stone fruit.

Trajadura (Treixadura) is low in acid; apple and peach and usually blended with higher acid grapes.

Vinhao (Sousao) most widely black; deep color, high acid, cherry

Question 10

Vinho Verde Winemaking

Answer 10

Inexpensive high vol sources from across region and varieties. cool fermentation in stainless. Most bottled for release soon after the end of fermentation and CO2 added for a light spritz. Whites are low alcohol, med plus to high acid, apple, citrus, peach. some have small amount of RS. Good and made by coop or negociant.

Higher priced, often smaller vintners are still and growing number of single varietal / sub zone wines. A few use ambient yeast, mostly old oak for fermentation and / or maturation and may keep on lees for a few months for complexity and texture. Mid to prem and very good.

Name of sub region can appear on label. Min 9.5% abv and 8.5% for those without sub region on label.

Single varietal Alvarinho from Moncae e Melgaco must have lower yields than standard Vinho Verdo and 11.5% abv. Only this sub region can state Alvarinho on label as a single varietal. As of 2016 others can along with other grapes if Alvarinho is at least 30%. Other sub regions must declassify to Minho VR if they wish to label a single varietal as Alvarinho.

Question 11

Vinho Verde Wine Business

Answer 11

Very fragmented with 17,250 growers cultivating 1,588 ha so on avg <1/10ha. Most sell to coops or negociants.

Only 400 growers who bottle own wine.

Producers: Anselmo Mendes and Quinta de Soalheiro

2018 40% export: DE, US, FR, Brazil; US value leader

Question 12

Douro DOC Basics

Answer 12

Established as a DOC in 1982.

First ambitious wine made by Fernando Nicolau de Almeida who was working at Ferreira Port. In 1952 after a trip to Bordeaux he made his first vintage of Barca Velha cooling the tanks with ice brought up river. He experimented and finally settled on Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) for the majority with other grapes in the blend. Was not popular at first but now can cost 10x good vintage port.

Unfortifed Douro didn’t really take off till Portugal joined the EU in 1986 which brought financing to modernize winemaking. And then a few won a suit to allow export from th estates (quintas).

Question 13

Douro Climate

Answer 13

The Serra do Marao on the western edge protect the region from the cooler damper Atlantic weather.
Overall warm continental. But diff based on proximity to the Atlantic. Baixo Corgo is coolest and wettest (900mm/yr), Cima Corgo warmer and drier (700mm), and Douro Superior hot and arid 450mm).

Douro river and tributaries provide a range of altitudes and aspects for a wide range of microclimates.

Question 14

Douro Soil & Viticulture

Answer 14

Bedrock is schist with a shallow schistous topsoil. Low in organic matter and stony texture, holds very little water.

The bedrock splits into vertical layers and the vine roots can break through to search for water. Necessary since most sites are not set up for irrigation and climate is increasingly warm and drought prone.

In 2019 the IVDP relaxed rules for irrigation which used to be only for necessity. Now allowed when quality (not quantity) is jeopardized. Just need to let them know.

Question 15

Douro Grapes

Answer 15

Usually blends.

Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cao.

Franca and Nacional retain acidity and give ripe black fruit flavors; popular lead grapes. Franca med body and alcohol; red and black, floral. Nacional high color level and tannin, black fruit, violet, rose, orange blossom.

Plantings of Sousao increasing with high acidity even in warm years.

Large range of other Portuguese varieties.

Viosinho (full body, floral, low acidity), Rabigato (high acid, citrus, floral), Gouveio (Godello in SP, med plus acid, citrus, stone fruit), Moscatel Galego Branco (Blanc a Petits Grains). Grown at the higher altitudes for cooler day and night temps to retain acid.

Mostly blend from a range of sites. Aim for ripe but not overripe. Cooler sites (altitude, north facing) can help this in hot years.

Question 16

Douro Winemaking

Answer 16

Can be still red, rose, white or sparkling. 75% red. Range of styles and quality levels. Key producers: Prats & Symington and Quinta do Vale Meao.

Usually destemmed as grapes have high enough tannin. Fermentation in stainless for easy temp control. Relatively low for red (24 - 28) to limit tannin extraction. Some use the lagares, or a small proportion from lagares. Easier to monitor extraction as it’s open.

Wines for early drinking are pressed off skins once fermentation done. Post fermentation maceration used for wines for longer aging wines or to soften tannins. Maturation traditionally in large old Portuguese oak, but now French barriques more common. But increasingly using large vats and less new oak.

Inexpensive Douro whites fermented at cool temps in stainless and bottled soon after. Light to med aromas, med to med plus acid, and good quality. Premium are often from old vines and fermented and matured in oak (old or new). Greater intensity, body, texture. Very good with some outstanding.

Question 17

Douro Wine Business

Answer 17

Grown from 330,000 hL in 2008 to 515,000 in 2017.

Nearly all the major port houses (ex Taylor Fladgate) make a Douro DOC wine.

23 coops.

Grape prices are sig lower than for Port. Not controlled by the Beneficio and so may fall below cost of production in years of surplus. Some argue that artificial prices of Port subsidize Douro DOC grapes.

Export 33%: Canada, UK, Brazil

Question 18

Dao Climate

Answer 18

Surrounded by mountains protecting from cool maritime weather from west and warmer arid weather from east and south.

Mediterranean with warm dry summers and mild winters. Rainfall 1,600 in west and 1,100 in east. but mainly in autumn and winter.

Question 19

Dao Viticulture

Answer 19

20,000 ha. Majority of area is pine and eucalyptus which bring a signature note to the wines.

Mixed topography with hills, valleys, mountain sides for range of aspects an altitudes.

Most at 400 - 500m (but some as low as 200m). In the easternmost Serra da Estrela sub region as high as 900m providing a moderating influence on day temps and high diurnal range.

Soils weathered granite with sandy or loamy texture. Low in organic matter, free draining constraining vigor and meaning water stress can be an issue during ripening.

Summer hail, spring frosts in flat low lying areas

Bush vines traditional, now most double or single Guyot or Cordon VSP

255,000hL in 2017 and 155,000 in 2018

Question 20

Dao Grapes and Winemaking

Answer 20

80% red wine. Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Jaen, Alfrocheiro.

Touriga and Tinta can be varietal or in blends with Touriga bringing deep color, high acid and tannin, black fruit, floral herbal and Tinta deep color, med to med plus tannin and full body.

Jaen (Mencia in SP) has moderate acid and raspberry and blackberry. As single varietal is sometimes carbonic maceration for a fruity wine for early consumption.

Alfrocheiro has med tannin and body with strawberry and blackberry. As varietal made in a soft fruity style for early consumption. Sometimes rose.

Reds from Dao tend to be less full bodied and intense than Douro and fresher flavors and higher acid.

Used to be overly astringent from long maceration and maturation. Now shorter maceration and ageing in oak is common. New oak is typical but being used with more restrain. Good to outstanding and mid to prem with few super.

Encruzado white grape for high quality. med to med plus acid, full bodied, lemon and peach, floral. Fermented in neutral to retain fruit or in oak sometimes with lees stirring for texture. Oak fermented styles can age in bottle developing nutty notes. Good to very with few outstanding and mid to prem.

Question 21

Dao Wine Business

Answer 21

30,000 growers. 90% less than 0.5ha.

After EU ascencion, Sogrape led the way for high quality production. Now growing number focused on quality.

Vinha Paz and Quinta da Pellada.

15% - 20% exported. Canada, Brazil, USA, China

Question 22

Bairrada Basic and Climate and Viticulture

Answer 22

Located to the west of Dao with a maritime climate. Rainfall of 800 - 1,200 with some areas of 1,600mm. Mostly falls in spring and autumn which can be a problem for late ripening Baga.

10,000 ha planted. Fertile alluvial soils in the west and limestone clay soils. In Cantanhede, unofficial sub region in the warmer south, limestone clay soils have attracted intense plantings of Baga.

Traditionally high trained individually staked bush vines. Recently trellised with Guyot VSP.

Light colored soils (espec in Cantanhede which is strewn with white limestone pebbles and rocks) reflect solar energy onto the vine aiding ripening. Green harvesting used to enhance ripening (these may be used in sparkling).

Question 23

Bairrada Black Grapes and Winemaking

Answer 23

Red grapes are 2/3 of production. Baga is dominant with high acid and tannin, med body, cranberry, cherry, plum. Astringent when young but softer and more complex with age.

Most of the 20th century, Baga was grown at high yields and sold to coops. Lacked concentration and were astringent. Was and still is used for Mateus Rose. More recently focused on quality and this is leading to good and very good wines.

Baga is late ripening and productive so careful site selection and limiting yields are required for full ripeness. Warmest sites (south facing and protected from cold winds by pine and eucalyptus forests). Ripens best on clay limestone for optimum balance of water retention and drainage to ensure enough water to continue ripening even when drought conditions but not be too vigorous.

Traditionally fermented on stems leading to need for long aging. Most modern de-stem with a few doing whole bunch (fresh fruit) or proportion of stems (structure). Fermentation vessels: stainless, concrete, lagares. Maturation in large French oak (500 - 650L). Traditional use large toneis made from Portuguese oak or Brazilian hardwood. Others use Fourdres.

Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, Jaen, Camarate and some international (Cab Sauv, Merlot) also permitted.

Baga Classico must be 50% Baga and min 85% Baga plus Alfrocheiro, Nacional, Jaen, or Camarate.

Question 24

Bairrada White Grapes and Winemaking

Answer 24

Maria Gomes (Fernao Pires), Bical, Arinto, Cercial.

Maria Gomes most widely planted white in Portugal. Early ripening which is good in this damp climate. Can produce high yields. Citrus and floral. Bical early ripening; peach and tropical. Both med plus acid if picked early, but lose acid quickly if left on the vine longer.

Arinto and Cercial: apple and citrus and used to add acidity to blends.

Many international incl Sauv Blanc and Chard also permitted.

Inexpensive wines are sourced from sandy soils. Fermented at cool temps in stainless and bottled / released soon after.

Mid and prem sourced from clay limestone and may be fermented and matured in oak.

Good to very good. Quinta das Bageiras and Filipa Pato & William Wouters.

Lead producer of traditional method sparkling wine in Portugal. 10% of Bairrada production. Local grapes with Chard and Pinot.

Question 25

Bairrada Business

Answer 25

2,000 growers; coops and merchants common. Small group called Baga Friends make and promote quality.

92,000hL in 2017.

Local VR Beira Atlantico makes 34,000 hL and boundaries are beyond Bairrada.

Luis Pato and Filipa Pato use the VR label because they objected to the expansion of the DOC to international varieties.

Question 26

Alentejo Basics

Answer 26

23,000 ha

Made up of 8 non contiguous sub zones.

Covering same area Vinho de Talha DOC was introduced in 2010 for wines fermented on skins in talha (amphora).

Vinho Regional Alentejo commonly used by producers sourcing grapes outside the 8 sub regions.

Question 27

Alentejo Climate & Viticulture

Answer 27

Mediterranean with hot dry summers and mild winters. Most inland regions have most extreme temps. Rainfall of 500mm in south and 800 in north mainly in autumn and winter. With long periods of dry weather, drip irrigation is widely used.

Plains and gentle slopes with mountains in the north, south, and east of the region. Wide range of soils including granite, schist, limestone with textures ranging from sand to clay.

Most are double cordon VSP. Guyot declining due to need for skilled labor. This is a very sparsely populated area.

Northernmost sub regions in Alto (Upper) Alentejo are less hot and dry. Sub region of Portalegre has vineyards at over 800m and this altitude with northerly location means it is cooler for wines with fresher fruit and higher acid. This area has smaller vineyards many with field blends.

Question 28

Alentejo Grapes and Winemaking

Answer 28

Wide range permitted; 75% black; most wines are blends.

Aragonez (Tinta Roriz), Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira.
Aragonez is early ripening and if left on the vine can become extra ripe so best in cooler areas.
Alicante Bouschet is red fleshed with deep color, acid, tannin, red and black berry fruits.
Trincadeira: susceptible to rot but grows well in this dry climate. High yielding so needs limiting to ripen fully. Med tannin and acid; blackberry and spice.
Touriga Nacional, International, Syrah, Cab Sauv, Petit Verdot.

Inexpensive and fruity to concentrated super prem. Cartuxa and Mouchao.

Roupeiro most white. Retains acid well but susceptible to rot. Suited to warm dry climate. Citrus and stone fruit that fad with age.
Arinto (Pederna) for acidity; Antao Vaz tolerant to drought made in a range of styles but can lack acidity. Chard and Viognier also allowed. Stainless or barrel fermented. Good to very good. Inexpensive to mid.

Question 29

Alentejo Business

Answer 29

Makes up 40% of the domestic market by value. 20% of total Portuguese exports. Brazil, Angola, US, Switzerland, Canada.

600,000hL in 2018

Larger land holdings. Well suited to high volume, mechanized viticulture. In 1995 45 producers and 13,500ha in 2019 285 producers and 22,000ha.

Strong tourism focus. Designer wineries with large cellar doors. Pioneered by Jose Roquette of Esporao and Joao Portugal Ramos

Question 30

Lisboa Climate and Viticulture

Answer 30

18,000 ha running from Lisbon to 150km north. Serra de Montejunto splits the region into two areas.

Western side runs along the Atlantic coast. Wet weather and strong winds make viticulture challenging. But there are attractive clay limestone soils for lighter fresher wines. The eastern side is more protected for riper, fuller bodied, wines.

Question 31

Lisboa Grapes

Answer 31

Wide range of Portuguese and international.

Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Arinto are thought to have the highest potential. Syrah, Cab Sauv, Pinot, Sauv Blanc, Riesling.

Question 32

Lisboa DOC’s

Answer 32

Alenquer: eastern side, full bodied red from Touriga Nacional and Aragonez. Many other varieties grown. Good to very good; mid with a few prem and super.

Bucelas: eastern side; small historic region, high acid wines from Arinto (must be 75%). Some stainless and soon released, others lees and/or oak for texture. Good to very, inexpensive to mid.

Colares and Carcavelos: smaller coastal areas of historic importance. Cool foggy coastal climate, ungrafted bush vines on deep phylloxera free sandy soils are of particular interest for fresh high acid wines from local grapes.

Question 33

Lisboa Business

Answer 33

Vast majority of production is from Lisboa VR and lots without any geographical indication.

9 DOC’S but most use the Lisboa name as it’s more recognizable.

DOC’s produce ~50,000 hL while the VR nearly 900,000hL.

40% of DOC wine is made by Casa Santos Lima, inexpensive and mid priced brands and private label.

Producers: Quinta de Chocapalha and Quinta do Monte d’Oiro

Question 34

Peninsula de Setubal

Answer 34

Located between estuaries of Tejo and Sado Rivers. 9,500 ha

Mediterranean with hot dry summers, and mild wet winters. Mountains in the south provide cooler sites at higher altitudes on clay limestone soils. Most of the region is flat and sandy with clay and schist further inland.

Palmela DOC: mainly red wines from at least 67% Castelao (aka Periquita). Deep color, full body, red berry. Often matured in oak. Best on the sandy vineyards on the plains. On limestone slopes produces lighter wines for early drinking. Wide variety of local and international grapes allowed. Main white is Fernao Pires, Moscatel, Arinto, but large range permitted. Good with some very; mid price.

Peninsula de Setubal VR makes up a larger area encompassing the DOCs. Greater flexibility and no min of Castelao.

Producer: Jose Maria da Fonseca (Lancers and Periquita brands) and Bacalhoa Vinhos.

Question 35

Tejo

Answer 35

Located inland from Lisboa and named after Tejo river that runs through it.

Historically focused on volume from the fertile banks. Many grubbed up after entering the EU. New plantings on less fertile soil.

There is a VR and DOC of the name with the VR producing more and allowing more grapes.

Mediterranean with hot dry summers and mild wet winters (750mm). Variances in climate and soil across region. North slightly higher rain with clay limestone and schist and mainly red. Around the river, fertile alluvial soils mean vigor needs to be managed. Mainly whites. South is driest and hottest and has poor sandy soils. reds and whites.

Range of grapes. Most common: Trincadeira, Castelao, Aragonez, Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Cab Sauv for Red. Fernao Pires, Arinto, Alvarinho, Sauv Blanc, Chard for whites.
Mostly fruity style for early drinking. Acceptable to good, inexpensive to mid. But higher quality starting to be made.

Producers: Quinta de Aloma and Fiuza & Bright.