CAR PARTS/FUNCTIONS Flashcards
(23 cards)
types of engines
hubcap vs wheel cover
lug nuts on tire
basic battery malfunctions or problems
Overfilling: Adding too much water or electrolyte can cause leaks or damage.
Dirt: Contaminants on top of the battery can interfere with electrical flow.
Corrosion: White or greenish buildup around terminals can block power flow.
Frayed or broken cables: Damaged cables can cause poor connections or electrical failure.
Water: Indicates leaking or spilled electrolyte, which can be dangerous.
Cracked case: A broken battery shell can leak acid and reduce battery life.
Low electrolyte: Means there’s not enough liquid to cover the plates inside, which can ruin the battery.
Cracked cell cover: Can cause leaks or allow dirt and air inside.
Loose hold-down: If the battery isn’t secure, it can move and get damaged.
Cell connector corrosion: Corroded links between cells weaken performance.
crankshaft motion likened to bike pedal motion
explanation= pistons & connecting rod move up & down to turn the crankshaft in circles
Rear wheel drive (RWD) layout
Engine: The main power source that burns fuel to make the car move.
Transmission: Connects to the engine and controls how much power goes to the wheels by shifting gears.
U-joints: Flexible joints in the driveshaft that allow it to rotate smoothly even when the car moves over bumps.
Driveshaft: A long spinning tube that carries power from the transmission to the rear wheels.
Axle: A solid rod that connects the rear wheels and helps rotate them.
Differential: A gear system that lets the rear wheels spin at different speeds, especially important when turning
Front wheel drive (FWD) layout=
Oil dipstick: A metal stick you pull out to check your engine oil level.
Engine block: The large metal part of the engine that holds the cylinders and moving parts.
Cylinders: Chambers where fuel is burned to create power for the vehicle.
Crankcase: The lower part of the engine that holds the crankshaft and oil.
Transaxle: A combined unit of transmission and differential that sends power to the front wheels.
Transmission dipstick: A tool to check the fluid level in the transmission.
Cylinder head: The top part of the engine that covers the cylinders and holds the valves and spark plugs.
Spark plugs: Small parts that create the spark needed to ignite fuel in the engine
drive train & components
Engine: Generates power by burning fuel and turns the crankshaft.
Crankshaft: Rotates inside the engine to transfer power to the clutch.
Flywheel: A heavy disc that smooths out engine power and helps connect the engine to the clutch.
Clutch pedal: When pressed by the driver, it disconnects engine power so you can shift gears.
Pressure plate: Pushes the clutch disk against the flywheel to transfer power.
Clutch disk: Friction disc that connects or disconnects the engine from the transmission.
Input shaft: Carries engine power into the transmission.
Throw-out bearing: Helps release the clutch when the pedal is pressed.
Gears: Different sized wheels inside the transmission that change speed and torque.
Gearshift: Stick used by the driver to choose gears.
Output shaft: Carries power out of the transmission toward the wheels.
Driveshaft: A spinning rod that delivers power from the transmission to the rear wheels.
U-joints: Flexible joints that allow the driveshaft to rotate smoothly even with movement.
Differential: Lets rear wheels turn at different speeds, especially when cornering.
Rear axle: Connects the differential to the rear wheels and supports vehicle weight
FWD
fwd_ differential=
Propeller shaft: This is the spinning rod that brings power from the engine and transmission to the differential.
Inner half shaft: One of the two shorter shafts that sends power from the differential to a wheel.
Outer half shaft: The other short shaft going to the opposite wheel—both half shafts help the vehicle move.
Crown wheel: A large gear that is turned by the propeller shaft to rotate the rest of the differential parts.
Pinion: A small gear connected to the propeller shaft that spins the crown wheel.
Rotating cage: This holds the internal gears and spins with the crown wheel, helping send power to both wheels.
Small gear: These are spider gears that allow the left and right wheels to spin at different speeds, especially during turns.
Large gear: These are side gears attached to each half shaft, receiving motion from the spider gears to drive the wheels.
fwd_components explained
Engine: This is the part that generates power to move the vehicle.
Transaxle: A combined unit that houses the transmission and differential, sending power to the front wheels.
Input cluster shaft: This is where the engine’s power enters the transmission system.
Mainshaft: A shaft inside the transaxle that helps transfer power from the input shaft to the wheels.
Driving axle: These are the shafts (also called half shafts) that deliver power directly to the front wheels.
Pinion gear: A small gear that turns the ring gear, starting the process of sending power to the wheels.
Differential: A gear system that lets the front wheels spin at different speeds when turning.
Ring gear: A large gear driven by the pinion that spins the differential and helps move the driving axles
basic cooling system & components
Radiator: A heat exchanger that cools the hot coolant coming from the engine before it’s recirculated.
Radiator cap: A pressure-release valve that seals the radiator and helps maintain proper pressure in the cooling system.
Fan: Pulls air through the radiator to help cool the coolant, especially when the car isn’t moving.
Top radiator hose: Carries hot coolant from the engine to the top of the radiator.
Thermostat: A temperature-controlled valve that opens and closes to regulate coolant flow based on engine temperature.
Water pump: A mechanical pump that circulates coolant through the engine, radiator, and hoses.
Fan belt: A belt that turns the water pump and fan using power from the engine.
Bottom radiator hose: Carries cooled coolant from the radiator back into the engine.
Water jackets: Hollow channels inside the engine block that let coolant flow around the cylinders to absorb heat.
lubricating system
Oil pan: A metal reservoir at the bottom of the engine that holds all the engine oil.
Oil pump: Pulls oil from the pan and pushes it through the engine to keep everything lubricated.
Oil filter: Removes dirt and particles from the oil to keep it clean as it circulates
exhaust system
Exhaust manifold: Collects exhaust gases from the engine’s cylinders and directs them into the exhaust pipe.
Exhaust pipe: Carries those gases through the length of the car toward the back.
Muffler: Reduces engine noise by quieting the sound of escaping exhaust.
Tailpipe: The final outlet where exhaust gases exit the vehicle
brake system=
Brake pedal: The driver presses this to activate the brakes.
Power brake (optional): Uses engine vacuum to make pressing the brake pedal easier.
Master cylinder: Sends brake fluid through the brake lines when the pedal is pressed.
Brake line: Carries brake fluid to all four wheels.
Brake warning light switch: Turns on a dash light if there’s a problem with brake pressure.
Disc brake (front): Uses calipers and pads to clamp onto a rotor and stop the front wheels.
Drum brake (rear): Uses brake shoes that push outward against a drum to stop the rear wheels.
Brake pedal & master cylinder (first image): The brake pedal (left) connects via a push rod to the master cylinder (center), which generates hydraulic pressure sent through brake lines
Disc brake & brake line (first image): Brake fluid travels through brake lines to the caliper, squeezing brake pads against the rotor to slow the wheel
Drum brake assembly (second image): Inside the drum, pistons push brake shoes outward against the drum’s inner surface to create friction and stop the wheel
Complete hydraulic disc system layout
When you press the brake pedal, it activates the power booster and master cylinder, which builds pressure in the brake fluid. That pressure travels through the tubes to the caliper piston. The piston pushes the brake pads against the spinning rotor, creating friction and slowing the vehicle.
brake system
Composition of the parking brake system
The parking brake consists of a handbrake handle, a handbrake cable, a handbrake tensioning mechanism, a handbrake switch, a handbrake indicator light, a handbrake shoe (some are rear-wheel brakes, and some are separate handbrakes)
E. The role of the parking brake system
- After the vehicle stops, prevent slipping
- Start smoothly on the ramp
- When the service brake system fails, it temporarily makes a role or cooperates with the service brake system to play a braking role
F. The form of the service brake
- Hydraulic type: the brake oil is used as the medium, and the brake cylinder is driven by the principle of compression
- Pneumatic type: the brake cylinder is driven by air pressure
part 1 brake system
** Brake pedal:** pure mechanical mechanism and a brake light switch is installed on the pedal bracket.
2. Brake master cylinder: After stepping on the brake pedal, the brake fluid is distributed to each brake cylinder through the brake master cylinder to form a braking force for brake braking.
3. Vacuum booster: Use a vacuum to form a brake booster to reduce the force applied to the brake pedal (that is, generate a larger braking force with a smaller force).
4. Brake wheel cylinder: It is the main component of each wheel to produce a braking force. It is mainly composed of brake caliper, brake caliper piston, brake caliper mounting bracket, etc.
5. Disc brake
The main components of disc brakes are brake disc, cylinder, caliper, tubing, etc. The disc brake has fast heat dissipation, lightweight, simple structure, and convenient adjustment. Especially at high load, it has good high-temperature resistance and stable braking effect.
6. Drum brake
The mainstream of drum brakes is the internal tension-type. Its brake block (brake shoe) is located inside the brake wheel. When the brake is braked, the brake block expands outward and rubs the inside of the brake wheel to achieve the purpose of braking. Due to the relatively low cost, it is mainly used for rear wheels and parking brakes with relatively small braking loads
🔧 Brake Pedal
This is where it all begins. When the driver presses the brake pedal, it starts the chain reaction that applies the brakes.
🔧 Vacuum Power Brake Booster
This component sits between the brake pedal and the master cylinder. It uses engine vacuum to multiply the force from your foot, making it easier to press the pedal and stop the car with less effort.
🔧 Brake Master Cylinder
When the brake pedal is pushed, it presses a piston inside the master cylinder, which creates hydraulic pressure. This pressure pushes brake fluid into the brake tubes.
🔧 Brake Fluid Pressure
This is the force created by the master cylinder using brake fluid. It travels through the brake tubes and moves the pistons in the calipers.
🔧 Brake Tube
These are the metal or rubber lines that carry pressurized brake fluid from the master cylinder to the calipers at each wheel.
🔧 Brake Piston
This is located inside the caliper. When brake fluid pressure reaches it, the piston pushes outward and presses the brake pads against the rotor.
🔧 Caliper Brake
The caliper holds the brake piston(s) and pads. It clamps the brake pads onto the rotor when the brakes are applied, creating the friction needed to slow the wheel.
🔧 Brake Pad
These are friction materials attached to both sides of the caliper. They squeeze the spinning disc rotor to create the force that slows the vehicle.
🔧 Disc Rotor
This is the round metal disc that spins with the wheel. When the brake pads clamp down on it, the wheel slows down
Drum Brake Assembly (RIGHT) & Disc Brake System (left)
Drum Brake Assembly
This is a view of a drum brake system, commonly found on the rear wheels of many vehicles.
Wheel Cylinder: This part receives hydraulic brake fluid and pushes the brake shoes outward when you press the brake pedal.
Brake Shoes: Curved friction materials that press outward against the inside of the brake drum to slow down the wheel.
Backing Plate: The metal base that holds all the drum brake parts in place—it acts like a foundation.
Hardware and Springs:These keep the brake shoes in the correct position and help them return after braking.
Parking Brake Cable: When you pull the handbrake, this cable activates the rear brakes mechanically—even without fluid pressure.
Self Adjuster: Keeps the brake shoes properly spaced as they wear down over time. It automatically adjusts the gap so braking stays effective.
How It Works: When the brakes are applied, the wheel cylinder forces the shoes outward into contact with the drum, causing friction to stop the wheel. When the brake is released, springs pull the shoes back into place.
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Disc Brake System
This is a disc brake assembly, typically used on the front wheels (and often rear too) of most modern vehicles.
Disc (Rotor): This round metal plate rotates with the wheel. It’s the surface that the brake pads clamp down on to stop the car.
Calipers: These house pistons and brake pads. When you press the brake pedal, hydraulic pressure forces the caliper pistons to squeeze the pads against the disc.
How It Works: When the pedal is pressed, the calipers clamp the pads tightly on both sides of the spinning rotor, using friction to slow or stop the wheel
Caliper & Brake Pads
In this image, you can see the caliper (green/gray housing) holding the brake pads (blue) pressed against the rotor (gray disc). When you brake, hydraulic pressure pushes the pistons inside the caliper, squeezing the pads onto the spinning rotor to create friction and slow the wheel
ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)
The following image illustrates how ABS works under the car. Each wheel has a speed sensor, connected to an electronic control unit (ECU) and valve/pump system. When a wheel begins to lock up during hard braking, the ECU quickly modulates brake pressure—releasing and reapplying—to maintain traction and control
Power Brake Booster
Also visible in the ABS illustration and described in sources, the power brake booster (vacuum booster) multiplies the pedal force. It uses engine vacuum to assist your foot pressure, making braking smoother and easier. Inside, a diaphragm moves as air pressure changes, pushing on the master cylinder piston
Step 1: Normal Braking (Everything is Working Normally)
When you press the brake pedal, fluid flows straight to the brake calipers or wheel cylinders to apply braking force.
The solenoid valve is open and allows full pressure.
The plunger is not moving, so everything works just like a regular brake system.
The wheel slows down evenly—no ABS action is needed.
Step 2: Wheel Starts to Lock (ABS Takes Action)
The car’s computer (the “K” box in the image) detects that a wheel is slowing too fast—about to lock up and skid.
It sends a signal to the solenoid, which closes the valve and traps the brake fluid pressure so no more pressure is applied to that wheel.
This prevents the wheel from locking, giving you more control during braking.
Step 3: Pressure Is Released
Now that pressure is trapped, the ABS opens a path to let some brake fluid out into a reservoir.
This reduces the pressure on the brake, allowing the wheel to regain speed and traction.
A pump then begins working to return the fluid back into the system to get ready for the next brake pulse.
Step 4: Reapply Brakes
After releasing pressure, the ABS system reapplies the brakes by reopening the valve.
The system can cycle this apply–release–reapply process many times per second, keeping the wheels from locking while still slowing the car.
✅ Summary:
ABS stops your wheels from locking during hard braking.
It uses sensors, valves, a pump, and a computer to rapidly control brake pressure.
You stay in control, even in slippery conditions—no skidding, and better steering
Battery
The battery provides the electrical power needed to start the ignition system. It sends 12 volts through the ignition switch when you turn the key.
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🔑 Ignition Switch
When you turn the key to “ON” or “START,” the ignition switch sends power from the battery to the ignition coil, starting the ignition process.
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⚡ Ignition Coil
The coil is like a mini transformer. It takes the 12 volts from the battery and “boosts” it to a much higher voltage—thousands of volts—which is strong enough to create a spark at each spark plug.
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🔁 Distributor
The distributor’s job is to direct the high-voltage spark from the coil to the correct spark plug at the right time. It spins in sync with the engine and routes power to each spark plug one by one.
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🔌 Spark Plugs
These are installed in each cylinder. When the spark reaches a plug, it ignites the air-fuel mixture inside that cylinder, causing a small explosion that powers the engine.
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🧲 Ground (Frame of Car)
The electrical system needs a complete circuit, and the ground (usually the car’s metal frame) provides a return path for the electrical flow back to the battery.
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starter system
🔋 Battery
The battery provides the electrical energy to power the starter motor and other systems when you turn the key.
🔑 Ignition Switch
When you turn the ignition key to the “Start” position, it sends power from the battery to the starter solenoid switch to begin cranking the engine.
⚡ Starter Solenoid Switch
This is an electrically controlled switch (relay) mounted on or near the starter. When activated, it connects the battery to the starter motor and pushes the starter gear into contact with the engine’s flywheel.
⚙️ Starter
The starter is a small but powerful electric motor that turns the engine over (cranks it) so it can begin running on its own.
🔄 Alternator
Once the engine starts, the alternator takes over by generating electricity to recharge the battery and power the vehicle’s electrical systems while the engine runs.
🧲 Ground (Frame of Car)
Just like in the ignition system, the ground completes the circuit. The battery and starter are grounded to the car’s metal frame to allow current to flow properly.
image explained
brake pads located b/ween the disc & the pistons grab the disc w/ their rough asbestos surfaces & force the disc to stop turning, this forces the wheel to stop turning. When the wheels stop turning, the car comes to a stop
image explained
when you take your foot off the brake pedal, the whole process is reversed. The brake pads release their hold on the disc, the fluid moves back up the brake lines to the master cylinder, & the wheels can turn freely again
automotive fuse box
inferior fuel panel
blade type fuses
unified fuse panel
variety of fuse boxes
blade fuse color coded amps/slightly off
4amp = pink
3amp = violet
40amp & 5amp= orange
vehicle chassis or frame
crank fuse location IAW owners manual
How to Locate and Identify It
Look for a fuse labeled STARTER, CRANK, or sometimes ENG START in the fuse box diagram printed on the cover or in your vehicle’s manual.
It’s typically a higher‑amperage blade fuse (commonly between 20–40 A) located next to the starter relay.
To test it, have someone turn the key to START while you use a test light or multimeter. You’ll see power flow through that fuse only during engine cranking—any other time, it’ll read dead (no continuity).
If this fuse shows no power during cranking, it could indicate a bad fuse, relay, ignition switch, or a wiring issue preventing the starter from engaging
crash course Collison
Cabin deforms significantly because
crushable zone is too weak to function
well as a collision energy absorber.
crash course Collison
Collision energy is not absorbed by car
because crushable zone is too strong.
The occupant is injured.
crash course Collison
Collision energy is well absorbed by
crushable zone without any cabin
deformation. The occupant is safe
charging system layout
⚡ Battery
Serves as the electrical reservoir that powers the starter and accessories when the engine is off and stabilizes voltage under load
🔋 Alternator
A belt-driven generator that converts engine motion into electricity; it supplies current to the vehicle’s electrical systems and charges the battery while driving .
🛠️ Voltage Regulator
Sits inside or alongside the alternator and keeps output voltage between about 13.5–14.5 V—enough to charge the battery without overloading it
🔌 Indicator Lamp (Gen/BATT Light)
Located on the dashboard, it lights up if the system isn’t charging properly—often due to belt problems or alternator/regulator failure .
🔄 Wiring and Fuse Junctions
Heavy-gauge wires carry charging current from the alternator to the battery and electrical bus; ignition and excitation leads trigger the alternator’s field winding to begin charging when the engine starts.
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How it works in simple terms: Once the engine runs, the belt turns the alternator’s rotor inside the stator, producing AC current. That AC is converted to DC by the rectifier, and then the voltage regulator ensures the output stays within safe limits. This electricity powers your electronics and recharges the battery, keeping the vehicle’s system balanced and ready for the next start. If anything in the loop breaks—like a loose belt, faulty regulator, broken wire, or dead alternator—the battery will gradually run down and may eventually lead to a no-start condition
idle mixture screw and the idle speed screw
The green arrow points to the idle mixture screw, which adjusts the air–fuel mix at idle. Turning it clockwise (in) makes the mixture leaner (less fuel), while turning it counterclockwise (out) makes it richer (more fuel).
The red arrow indicates the idle speed screw (also called the throttle stop screw), which controls how far the throttle plate stays open when idling. Turning it in increases idle RPM, and turning it out lowers the RPM.
These two screws serve different but complementary roles: one fine-tunes the fuel mixture for smooth running, and the other sets the actual engine speed at idle
idle mixture screw and the idle speed screw
The green arrow points to the idle mixture screw, which controls how much fuel mixes with the airflow at idle. Turning it clockwise leans the mixture (less fuel); turning it counterclockwise enriches it (more fuel).
The red arrow indicates the idle speed screw, which determines how open the throttle butterfly remains at idle—adjusting engine speed. Turning it in increases RPM; turning it out decreases RPM.
The blue arrow (if present) likely highlights a throttle linkage or arm connected to the throttle plate, which works in concert with the idle speed screw.
This visual aligns with standard carburetor designs and shows exactly what’s happening when you adjust those screw
