tools Flashcards
(18 cards)
screwdrivers difference
Standard (Slotted) Screwdriver
Tip Shape: Flat, single blade
Compatible Screws: Slotted screws with a single straight groove
Common Uses: Basic woodworking, cabinetry, and vintage hardware
Advantages:
Simple design
Widely available
Disadvantages:
Prone to slipping (cam-out)
Requires precise alignment
screwdrivers types
Phillips Screwdriver
Tip Shape: Cross-shaped (resembling a “+” sign)
Compatible Screws: Phillips screws with a cross-shaped recess
Common Uses: Electronics, automotive, and general construction
Advantages:
Self-centering design
Better grip reduces slippage
Disadvantages:
Can cam-out under high torque
Not suitable for slotted screws
flathead vs Philips screwdrivers
types of wrenches
distributor wrench
offset wrench
allen wrench
all parts of the socket wrench: adapters_ratchet handles_extenders
beam torque wrench
dial torque wrench
types of jacks
monkey wrench
pry bar = uses in automotive
- Separating Components
- Engine and Transmission Alignment
- Suspension Work
- Removing CV Axles
- Prying Seals or Gaskets
- Tire and Rim Assistance
- Body Panel Separation
- Exhaust Work
- Brake Work
- Heavy Fastener Leverage
drain pan
to collect vehicle fluids
battery tester
different types of pliers
wire and taper feeler gauge
wire feeler gauge
taper feeler gauge
Flat feeler gauge
compression gauge
low brake fluid dashboard
car creeper
lug wrench
lug/shift
CLEANING BATTERIES
Wire brush &/with scraper
tools w/in battery cleaning kit
🔍 How to Read the Fuse Tracking Diagram
The diagram shows a fuse box layout, typically found under the dashboard or in the engine compartment, with labeled fuse and relay slots:
Fuse positions (numbered boxes): Each corresponds to a specific circuit—e.g., “5” might power the radio, “7” the interior lights.
Relays (labeled Relay 1, Relay 2, etc.): These are high-current switches controlling bigger components like fuel pumps or cooling fans.
Fuse ratings (amps): Usually listed beneath the diagram (e.g., 10 A, 20 A). These indicate the maximum current the fuse can handle before blowing.
Circuit descriptions: Commonly include identifiers like “Horn,” “A/C Clutch,” “Ignition,” or tire warning, helping you easily trace which fuse protects which function.
locating & utilizing the fuse box diagram
Using This System Safely
Check your owner’s manual: Match the fuse box map found inside the fuse panel cover or in the manual.
Identify the correct fuse: Find the number or label that corresponds to the malfunctioning circuit.
Turn off the ignition before inspecting: Prevents shorts or shocks while handling fuses.
Visually inspect for blown fuses: Look for a broken metal strip inside the fuse or scorched plastic.
Replace with the same rating fuse: Never exceed the original amp rating, as that could allow wires to overheat.
Use the diagram for troubleshooting: If a component keeps blowing its fuse, check related systems or wiring for faults
example photo
Testing Light or Continuity Tester graphic & step by step
The tool has two main parts: a metal probe (the pointy end) and a black wire with a clamp (often called an alligator clip). To use it correctly, follow these steps:
Clip the black end to a metal ground – Find a clean, unpainted piece of metal on the vehicle. The best places are a metal bolt on the chassis, the engine block, or directly to the negative terminal of the batter. This creates a complete electrical path so the tool can work.
Turn the ignition key to the ON position (engine doesn’t have to run) – This allows power to flow to most fuses so you can test them.
Touch the metal probe tip to each small metal tab on the top of a fuse. Every fuse has two tiny exposed contact points on top, and you’re checking if power reaches both sides.
Watch for the light – If the tester lights up on both tabs of a fuse, that fuse is good. If it lights up on only one side, the fuse is blown. If there’s no light on either side, the fuse may be in a circuit that’s not active (like headlights when they’re off), or the ground connection isn’t solid.
So, in short: clip the black wire to clean metal, turn the key to ON, and touch the probe to both tabs on top of each fuse to test it. It’s fast, easy, and saves you from having to pull fuses one by one
Testing Light or Continuity Tester in useTesting Light or Continuity Tester:
A testing light is a simple tool that typically consists of a small bulb that lights up when current flows through it.
To test a fuse, you need to connect the testing light across the fuse terminals. If the fuse is intact, the circuit is complete, and the light will turn on, indicating that the fuse is good.
If the light does not turn on, the fuse is likely blown, as there is no continuity.
This method is fast because it provides instant visual feedback about the condition of the fuse without having to remove or inspect it closely
testing fuse light turning on for continuity
Demonstrate a test light or multimeter probe touching the top of a blade fuse in a live fuse box—you hold the ignition ON for powered circuits, and the tool lights up or shows a reading if the fuse has continuity
testing fuse light turning on for continuity
Illustrates the test light grounded correctly—notice the black alligator clip is connected to a clean, bare part of the car’s chassis or directly to the negative battery terminal
hydraulic lifts can vary by size
anything lifting the automobile
feeler gauge
A feeler gauge, as shown in the image, is a tool used to measure very small gaps or clearances between two parts—like the contact points in a distributor or the valve clearance in an engine. Each thin metal blade on the gauge has a number etched into it, indicating its exact thickness. These measurements are usually in thousandths of an inch (e.g., 0.016”) or millimeters (e.g., 0.40 mm), depending on the system you’re using. For example, a blade marked “0.016” means it is sixteen-thousandths of an inch thick. When a manual tells you to set your point gap or spark plug gap to 0.020 inches, you would select the blade with “0.020” on it from the feeler gauge set.
To use a feeler gauge, you gently slide the correct blade between the two surfaces you’re measuring, such as the contact points in an ignition system when the rubbing block sits on the high point of the cam. The goal is for the blade to slide between the gap with slight resistance—not too tight, and not so loose that it falls through easily. If the blade won’t fit, the gap is too small and needs to be widened. If it moves through too easily or rattles, the gap is too wide and needs to be closed. You keep adjusting the gap until the feeler blade for the correct measurement slides through just right. This ensures that the parts are spaced to factory spec, which is important for proper timing, spark delivery, or valve operation.
screw jacks
