Ch 11 Germany Flashcards
(163 cards)
1
Q
What % of Germany’s vineyards is Riesling? Where does Germany rank globally with this variety?
A
Almost 1/4 of GER’s total vineyard area is Riesling
GER is comfortably the world’s largest producer
2
Q
What style do you expect from GER Riesling?
A
Full range of styles, from dry to lusciously sweet
Its sweet styles are among the world’s finest
3
Q
What type(s) of wine typically come to mind when thinking of GER wines?
A
For many, GER is synonymous w/ Reisling
For others, GER is synonymous w/ inexpensive wines made w/ medium sweetness, produced from varieties such as Müller-Thurgau and Kerner, specifically developed to produce high yields of ripe grapes in the challenging climate
4
Q
What GER wine dominated the market in the 1980s?
A
Inexpensive, medium sweet wines produced from Müller-Thurgau and Kerner, known as Liebfraumilch
These were labeled under brands such as Black Tower and Blue Nun
These accounted for ~60% of all GER wine exports
5
Q
What happened to GER’s wine market after the 1980s?
A
Consumers, particularly in the important domestic market, turned to drier styles of wine (rather than the Liebfraumilch that had been popular)
GER’s reputation as a quality wine producer is only slowly starting to recover
6
Q
Describe key history moments in German winemaking
A
Some of the most famous and influential vineyards date back to middle ages, including Schloss Johannisberg and Kloster Eberbach in Rheingau (both planted 12th century)
Followed by rapid expansion; by beginning of 16th century, GER wines were widely exported, helped by proximity to the Rhine
Industry went into rapid decline in 17th century due to the Thirty Years War when flatter plains were taken for grain for bread & beer
Vineyards were pushed to steeper slopes, which remain today
Took centuries to recover
1830s = intro of new wine laws based on grape must weight, which also remains today
GER only became a unified country in 1871
Late 19th-Early 20th Century = eat’d GER’s now-famous wine institutes, such as Hochschule Geisenheim U in Rheingau and the Julius Kühn-Institut in Pfalz
By end of 19th Century, GER eat’d reputation for some of world’s finest wines
Then, major decline, first due to phylloxera & mildew, then due to 2 World Wars
7
Q
How did the 2 world wars affect area under vine in GER?
How does that compare to now?
A
Vineyard area halved in the 50 years to 1945
However, it is doubled since
8
Q
What GER institutions have played a vital role in modernizing the GER wine industry?
A
Germany’s famous wine institutes, such as…
Hochschule Geisenheim University in Rheingau
Julius Kühn-Institute in Pfalz
They have helped to make the industry amount the world’s most technologically advanced
9
Q
What happened to the GER wine industry after the 2 world wars?
A
Both wars had a devastating effect on GER’s economy and exports
High volumes of inexpensive wine started to be produced
Grapes that could ripen reliably YOY (such as Müller-Thurgau) were usually a key part of the blend
Grapes would be sourced from multiple regions, to ensure volume
At same time, GER started vineyard restructuring program called “Flurbereinigung” which consolidated many small, fragmented vineyards , built access roads to increase efficiency, make mechanization easier, and reduce costs
10
Q
What is “Flurbereinigung”
What implications?
A
A process begun after WWII to consolidate many small, fragmented vineyards and to build access roads
This was done to increase efficiency, make mechanization easier, and to reduce costs of viticulture
Without the process, many vineyards would not have become economically viable
However, in some areas (particularly the Mosel) abandoned vineyards can sell be seen, although some people are trying to re-cultivate the areas (well-est’d producers, highly motivated young winemakers)
11
Q
What is “the fifth German wine law”?
When was it created?
A
In 197, although a # of wine laws had been passed before
Laid the foundation for modern GER wine production
Established protected geo labelling and classification of wine styles based on must weights (note, 1830s saw wine laws around must weights)
12
Q
What is the focus of GER wine production today?
A
Bulk wines still dominate production
The past 30 years or so have seen an increased focus on quality which is slowly attracting global attention
13
Q
Describe the location and climate of GER vineyards
Implications?
A
With the exception of Baden, most of GER’s wine producing regions lie around 49-50 degrees N (among most N in world)
Overall, the climate is cool continental
Cold winters —> Spring frost is a risk (mitigated by slopes); Eiswein production possible
Summers are warm and wet; rainfall 500-800mm/yr, mostly in summer —> increased fungal disease, grape dilution, sometimes hail
AU is warm and dry —> long ripening period
Morning mists from rivers ideal for botrytis
14
Q
Why is site selection so important in GER?
What implications
A
Most of GER’s vineyards are located between 49-50 degrees N latitude, among the N-most in the world, making for a cool climate
Therefore, most vineyards are situated along the river Rhine and its tributaries, so the river can radiate heat, moderate temps, and extend the growing season
15
Q
Where are GER’s best vineyards?
A
- Often on steep, S-facing slopes to maximize sun exposure
16
Q
How steep are some of the slopes in the Mosel?
A
- Extremely steep, reaching gradients of 70%
17
Q
Why are long, dry autumns helpful for grape growing in GER?
A
Allows for long ripening periods
This allows grapes to develop high levels of natural sugar req’d for “Prädikatswein”
Morning mists ideal for botrytis development
18
Q
What factors help shelter vineyards from cold winds and the worst of the rain?
A
Mountain ranges such as the Taunus and Haart
19
Q
How does Baden’s climate compare to the majority of GER’s vineyard areas?
A
Baden is further S, stretching to the Swiss border
It is noticeably drier, warmer, and sunnier
However, in cooler areas, spring frosts can still be a concern
20
Q
Describe the soils in the Mosel and Ahr
Implications
A
Dark-colored slate retains heat during the day and radiates it out again at night, helping to ripen fruit in these cool regions
21
Q
What soils are common in Baden, Pfalz, Rheinhessen, and Franken?
What grapes thrive here?
A
Significant pockets of calcareous soils
Spätburgunder (PN), Weissburgunder (PB) and Chardonnay are mainly planted on these calcareous soils
In Franken, it produces some of the best Silvaner
22
Q
What is the biggest soil challenge for GER vineyards?
A
Erosion
Vineyard owners regularly are forced to winch soil and rocks back up the slopes, adding to costs
23
Q
How many ha under vine does GER have (2018)? Where does this rank them w/in Europe?
What is annual production
A
Around 100k ha
Seventh largest area under view in Europe
Around 9MM hL / year
24
Q
What are average yields like in GER
A
Vary from region to region
In areas such as Rheinhessen and Pfalz, can average over (!) 100 hL/ha, and in the past were even higher
In 1980s, were forced by EU regs to impose lower max yields
Still around 150 hL/ha for Deutscher Wein and Landwein and 105 hL/ha for Qualitätswein
Quality-minded producers (such as VDP) have much lower yields
75 hL/ha for Gutswein and Ortswein
60 hL/ha for Erste Lage
50 hL/ha for Grosse Lage
25
Why is vintage variation decreasing in GER?
Some is due to climate change
There have also been significant advances to vineyard management techniques, led by the various research institutes
Fruit ripeness has been improved by better clonal selection (esp amongst black grapes), summer pruning, green harvesting and selective hand harvesting
26
What are the typical vineyard management practices in GER?
Good canopy management is essential to max sun exposure and improve air circulation to reduce fungal disease caused by wet summers
Vines WERE traditionally staked individually w/ canes tied at top. Req’s labor-intensive and hard-to-find skills
All but steepest slopes now use single and doubly replacement-cane pruning w/ canes arched in the trellis
Arching is thought to improve the flow of sap in the vine and increase the # of viable buds, in turn increasing yields
27
What portion of GER vineyards are organic?
GER is not widely suited to organic and biodynamic b/c of disease risk (much summer rain)
Despite this, around 9% of GER’s vineyards are certified organic
There is also considerable support for sustainable viticulture
28
What factors make organic certification difficult in GER?
Summer rains lead to disease pressure
In the Mosel, the only practicable way to spray is by helicopter, and it is likely that spays would drift only neighboring vineyards, risking an organic producer’s accreditation
29
What makes the topography of GER so challenging?
Many vineyards are planted on slopes
On steeper slopes, vineyards are terraced or planted up the slopes
Mechanization is difficult or even impossible
In some cases, they slopes are so steep that equipment and workers have to be winched up and down
New tech is being intro’d — such as small caterpillar tractors that can negotiate steep slopes
30
Why is it common for Riesling to be planted on the steep slopes of GER?
Steep slopes increase costs significantly
Often only Riesling can command appropriate, sustainable prices
31
What implications are there to GER wine laws that require some wines to be hand-harvested?
GER’s labor costs are often higher than other wine-producing countries
This means that the wine has to be able to fetch prices that justify this cost
32
Historically, what grape(s) planted in GER?
Has this changed?
In 1980, 90% of grapes planted were white grapes that could tolerate the cold conditions, such as Riesling and/or those bred specifically for that purpose (Müller-Thurgau, Scheurebe, Kerner)
In 2017, 39% of plantings were black, a significant increase
33
How has Germany’s red wine changed?
Must of GER’s red used to be light and fruity, often w/ RS
Quality improved greatly, thanks to better clones, particularly of Spätburgunder and Dornfelder, better vineyard management and winemaking techniques, as well as increasing temps in the vineyard
34
Is it common for grape varieties to appear on GER wine labels?
Grape varieties are not required to be stated on GER labels but usually are
35
What are the top grape varieties in GER?
Riesling ~23% of plantings
Müller-Thurgau
Spätburgunder (~11.5%)
Dornfelder (R)
Grauburgunder
Weissburgunder
Silvaner (W)
36
Describe the Riesling grape (in GER)
Susceptibilities and resistances
Budding & ripening
Style(s) of wine
Can survive cold GER winters
Late budding & thick wood —> frost resistant
Late ripening —> needs good sun exposure and dry autumns
Produces high-quality wines in a full range of styles from dry to sweet
Retains high acidity even when fully ripe
Susceptible to botrytis, ideal for making sweet wines
37
Describe the typical aromas for Riesling
Depending on ripeness, fruit flavors can range from green fruit to tropical
Can also show floral aromas such as white flowers or honeysuckle
W/ age, develop toast, honey and petrol-like aromas
38
Describe the Müller-Thurgau grape (in GER)
Aka
Type
Ripeing
Yields
Plantings
Style
Sometimes known as Rivaner
One of the earliest GER crosses (Riesling x Madeleine Royal)
Earlier ripening than Riesling
Can produce high yields in almost any conditions
GER’s most planted grape in ‘70s-80s; plantings have fallen by 1/2 as popularity of inexpensive wines fell
Widely used in inexpensive blends such as Liebfraumilch
Much lower acidity than Riesling (generally M)
Wines have less structure
39
Describe wine made w/ Müller-Thurgau
M acidity
Less structure and character than Riesling
Produces wines w/ attractive yet simple floral and fruity aromas
Easy drinking
Generally inexpensive
40
Describe Spätburgunder (in GER)
Most planted black grape (11.5% plantings)
Rising in popularity both domestically and for export
Plantings have almost tripled
Thrives in warmer areas of GER such as Baden
41
Describe typical GER Spätburgunder wine
Sweetness
Winemaking (oak? Stems?)
Quality
Dry
Often has oak aging
Some producers use whole bunch fermentation; the tannins from the stems contribute to tannins w/o needing use oak for this purpose
Producers tending to use less new oak and some are using more larger oak vessels than 10-20 yr ago
Generally high quality, complex
42
Describe Dornfelder (in GER)
Type
Growth
Where planted
The most significant black GER cross
Grown from 0 to 2nd most planted black grape in past 30 yr
Particularly successful in Rheinhessen and Pfalz, where it is the most-planted black variety, ahead of PN/Spätburgunder
43
Describe GER Dornfelder wines
Color
Acidity
Aromas
Style(s)
Deep color
High acidity
Fruity, floral notes
2 distinct styles
Easy drinking, usually w/ a little RS, w/ aromas of sour cherry and blackberry
More complex style w/ aging potential produced from lower yields, showing greater focus on tannins and structure, fermented or aged in oak
44
Describe Silvaner (in GER)
Aka
Plantings trent
Acidity
Aromas
Budding & ripening + implications
aka Sylvaner in Alsace
Plantings have halved since 1980, although decline stabilized now
Lower acidity and less aromatic than Riesling
Produces large amount of simple, inexpensive wine w/ subtle fruit aromas that can range from green to tropical
Early budding and early ripening —> susceptible to spring frosts but can be picked b4 temps fall in AU
45
Describe GER wines made of Silvaner
Acidity
Aromas (for basic and higher quality)
M to M+ acidity
Subtle fruit aromas that range from green fruit to tropical fruit
When yields are controlled (Franken in particular) can produce high-quality, dry, M body wines w/ M to M+ acidity and distinctive earthy character
46
Describe Grauburgunder wines from GER
Quality
Maturation
Acidity
Aromas
Body
Sweetness
Can produce VG quality wines
Some are aged in oak
From heavier soils can produce wines w/ M acidity
Aromas of stone fruit + tropical (sometimes dried) fruit + honey
Range from fuller-bodied, sweeter wines (often labeled as Ruländer)
47
Describe Weissburgunder wines from GER
Quality
Maturation
Acidity
Aromas
Can produce VG quality wines
Often aged in oak
M+ acid
Delicate citrus and stone fruit
48
Describe Chardonnay in GER
How long produced
Maturation
Where
Only allowed in GER since 1990
Plantings low but high quality examples are being produced
Often w/ oak aging
Often in warmer ares in S Pfalz, and Kaiserstuhl in Baden
49
What black grapes are used in GER for simple, fruity wines for drinking young?
Portugieser
Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier)
Trollinger (Schiava)
Limburger, although some higher quality examples are being produced
50
Why was Müller-Thurgau developed? When?
Developed in the 1880s (1st of the white crosses developed)
White grape developed to cope w/ GER’s cool climate
51
Why did the # of new crossings developed in GER increase rapidly in the mid-20th century?
A drive to produce high yields of grapes w/ high must weights was encouraged by GER wine laws
Unfortunately most of the new varieties produced wines w/ high level of sugar but w/o sufficient acidity or aromatic character to balance it
52
Is enrichment allowed in GER winemaking?
Yes, and it is commonly practiced,
Becoming rare outside bulk wine production due to consistently riper fruit
However, it is not allowed in Prädikatswein
The levels depend on which EU Zone the wine region falls in
Zone A (Most of GER’s wine regions) allows enrichment of up to 3% abv
Zone B (Baden) = up to 2% abv
53
Are acidification and/or de-acidification allowed in GER?
De-acidification is allowed
Acidification is allowed but only in the hottest years
These tend only to be used for high volume, inexpensive wine
54
What are the traditional fermentation and maturation vessels used in GER?
Is this changing?
Traditionally, large old oak casks to allow some O2; some producers of premium Riesling still do this today
Range of casks. Ex: 1000L Fuder of Mosel, 1200L Oval-shaped Stück used along the Rhine
GER oak, especially from Pfalz is particularly popular for large vessels, as is oak sourced from Central Europe
FR oak is common for smaller vessels such as barriques
Ferment in SS has become the norm
Used for inexpensive wines for ease of temp control and cleaning as well as ability to purchase extremely large vessels; doesn’t intro any O2 or add any flavors, so a common choice for mid-priced and premium Riesling (as well as other varieties such as Silvaner) to maintain primary aromas
New oak rarely used for Riesling as it could mask primary aromas
Proportion of new oak may be used for red wines, as well as Grau- and Weiss-burgunder, and Chardonnay
55
How were sweet wines in GER made in the 1960s and ‘70s?
All but the finest wines w/ RS were initially fermented to dryness then sweetened post-fermentation (even at the Prädikatswein level)
This was done by the addition of Süssreserve (unfermented or partially-fermented grape must)
56
What is Süssreserve?
What rules surround making of it?
How is it made?
Unfermented or partially-fermented grape must
Must be produced from grapes of the same region and the same quality level as the wine to which it is added
It is common for the Süssreserve and wine to come from the same must
Producers take a small proportion of must pre-ferment, clarify, chill and protect it w/ SO2, then add it back to the fermented wine to create the desired level of sweetness
Added to the dry wine just prior to bottling
57
What can be said about wines made by addition of Süssreserve?
Süssreserve is thought to give less-balanced wines
While many commercial wineries still use this process, quality-conscious producers follow the traditional method of making sweet wines by stopping ferment by adding SO2, racking or filtering
58
How can a wine be made sweet under GER law?
By stopping fermentation by adding SO2, racking or filtering (always allowed)
By adding Süssreserve (unfermented or partially-fermented grape must) — allowed, but generally not practiced by quality-minded producers
By adding RCGM (rectified concentrated grape must) — can only be used for Deutscher Wein
59
Comment the fermentation process for GER Beerenauslese, Eiswein, and Trockenbeerenauslese
Must Weights and implications
How long?
Resulting abv
Grapes have very high must weights
Fermentation usually proceeds very slowly — ex: TBA can take several months
Usually the ferment will stop naturally due to the high sugar levels, leaving high RS and low alcohol (5.5-8% abv)
60
What is the trend relative to sweetness in GER wines?
Since the late 1980s, there has been a dramatic shift in the GER domestic market toward drier wines
Vast majority of GER wines are now dry (trocken) or off-dry (halbtrocken)
Nevertheless, top producers remain committed to producing high-quality wines w/ some degree of sweetness
The best examples are among the finest in the world and have an enthusiastic following
61
What was one reason that sweetness was used for GER winemaking?
Sweetness was often used to mask high acidity and bitterness from under-ripe grapes
However, GER producers have learned how to ensure Riesling ripens fully and how to produce wines which balance sugar, acid and fruit character
62
How are GER red wines typically made?
Production varies according to quality and price
Inexpensive wines designed for early consumption
Often undergo thermovinificaiton for quick extraction of color and flavor
Wine can then be fermented off the skins to produce a fruity red wine w/ low tannins
Typically not oak matured
Higher quality red wines, most particularly PN
Techniques such as cold maceration, whole cluster ferment, and maturation in oak are common
63
What proportion of GER wines are rosé?
Relatively small production, making up almost 11% of domestic sales
Tend to be sold domestically
Typically inexpensive
64
Describe GER rosé wines
Typically inexpensive and sold domestically
Most are youthful, fruity
Most are fermented at cool temps in SS
Bottled for release soon after ferment
A small # of quality-focused producers make higher-priced, often aged in oak
65
When does GER’s current wine law date to? When was it revised?
Current laws date to 1971
Have been amended considerably since then
Criticized as confusing to consumers
Revised in 2021, to be phased in through 2025
66
What is the fundamental principal of GER wine law?
to classify grapes according to their must weight at harvest
There are few other rules regarding grape growing or winemaking, although there are limited restrictions on yields
67
What are the 4 quality levels of GER wine? On what are these based?
Based on increasing order of must weight
Deutscher Wein
Landwein
Qualitätswein
Prädikatswein
68
Describe Deutscher Wein
Aka / formerly known as
Rules
Style(s)
Quality & price
% of production
Formerly Tafelwein
Covers wine w/o geo indication, made exclusively from grapes grown in GER
ABV between 8.5-15%
Produced in any style
Enrichment is allowed
Inexpensive, meant to be drunk young
Usually accounts for tiny proportion of annual production (together w/ Landwein was 4% of 2018)
May state vintage and grape variety
69
Describe Landwein
When introduced
Rules
% of production
Intro’d in 1982 and is GER equivalent of PGI
At least 85% of grapes must originate in the Landwein region named on the label
ABV between 8.5-15%
Enrichment is allowed
In most regions, can only be produced as trocken or halbtrocken, although a few sweeter styles are permitted
Usually accounts for tiny proportion of annual production (together w/ Deutscher Wein was 4% of 2018)
From 1 of GERs 26 defined Landwein areas (e.g. Rheingauer Landwein)
Label may state name of landwein regions where grapes were grown but may NOT state a village or vineyard name
70
Describe GER Qualitätswein rules and style(s)
PDO level so must come from a define origin, but less stringent regs than Prädikatswein
Grapes must come from 1 of 13 Angaugebiete, which must appear on the label
Must weight ranges btw 50-70 Oechsle, depending on origin
Can be made in all styles
Min alcohol is lower (7%) to allow for sweeter wines
No max alcohol level
Enrichment is allowed
A majority of everyday drinking and high volume wines (although some high quality examples exist)
Must undergo lab analysis and blind tasting prior to release; those that pass are given an “AP” number (Amtliche Prüfungsnummer) which must appear on the label (10-12 digits)
71
Why are higher quality GER producers increasingly using the (lower) Qualitätswein classification instead of Prädikatswein?
Because Prädikatswein levels can be interpreted as sweetness (not necessarily correctly)
These producers are labeling their dry wines as Qualitätswein trocken and only using Pra4dikatswein for sweeter wines
72
Describe Prädikatswein rules, styles, types
Like Qualitätswein, this is a PDO category, but with more stringent regs
Must weights between 70-154 Oechsle
Grapes must come exclusively from a Bereich (1 of 40 recognized wine-producing districts) BUT the name does not have to appear on the label
Produced from grapes w/ the highest must weights
Enrichment NOT permitted
Can be any grape variety, although particularly associated w/ Riesling
Amount produced each yr depends on vintage
On average, production is ~1/2 of Qualitätswein, but in great vintage can be about the same
Means “Distinction” and there are 6 levels, defined by min must weight: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein, Trockenbeerenauslese
73
Describe GER Kabinett wines
Lowest must weights of the Prädikatswein
Lightest body (light)
Highest acid (high)
Can be dry to M-sweet in style
Those w/ RS can have alcohol as low as 7% abv (legal min)
Dry wines can reach 12%
Aromas of green and citrus fruit
74
Describe GER Spätlese wines
Produced from fully ripened grapes, usually picked ~2 weeks later than Kabinett
Greater concentration of riper fruit flavors (typically stone fruits for Riesling), slightly higher alcohol levels (at comp level of RS) and fuller body than Kabinett
Can range from dry to M-sweet
Min alcohol 7%
75
Describe GER Auslese wines
Made from specially-selected, extra-ripe bunches
However, hand-harvesting is NOT compulsory — some producers harvest mechanically and sort by hand at the winery
Even riper and more concentrated flavors than Spätlese
Often honey character and some grapes may be botrytis-affected given added complexity
Last category where the wines can be dry, although many of the best are sweeter in style w/ a balance of sweetness and acidity
Potential for long bottle-age
Min 7% abv for sweeter wines
Range of must weights is particularly wide, some producers will indicate sweetness level on the label, but not defined by law
76
Describe GER Beerenauslese wines
Often shortened to “BA”
Made from individually selected berries —> MUST be hand-harvested
Wine is always sweet due to higher must weights
Fermentation will be long and slow, only reaching relatively low levels of alcohol —> min 5.5%)
Berries do not need to have botrytis, but it is typical
For Riesling, typical flavors of very ripe and dried stone fruit
Only produced in years w/ suitable conditions in v. Sm. Quantity
Yields are low; labor-intensive
Rare and very expensive
77
Describe GER Eiswein wines
Min must weights are same as BA but grapes are picked frozen, at temps below -7C (19F)
Harvest can take place any time from Dec (occasionally Nov) to Feb of following year (vintage yr given at year harvest starts)
Once picked, grapes must be pressed while still frozen (no artificial freezing allowed)
Grapes used must be very healthy; unpleasant flavors from rot would be amplified
Some, if not all of crop can be lost to disease or predators
Min abv 5.5%
Riesling Eiswein tends to have H acidity, concentrated, pure peach and grapefruit flavors
Rare, sells for premium
78
When was Eiswein given its own Prädikat category?
- In 1982
79
Describe GER Trockenbeerenauslese wines
Often shortened to TBA
Fermentation will be long and slow, only reaching relatively low levels of alcohol —> min 5.5%); rarely continues beyond 8%
High must weights req’d mean grapes must have been affected by botrytis
Extremely sweet wines, but still balanced by high acidity
Yields are extremely low so only made in tiny quantities (rarely more than 100 bottles at a time) and only in suitable years
Tends to be the most expensive wines produced in GER
80
What are the GER equivalents for the EU labeling terms for sweetness and their requirements
Trocken (dry): not >4 g/L RS (or up to 9 g/L where RS does not except total acidity by more than 2 g/L as is usually the case w/ Riesling)
Halbtrocken (off-dry): between 4-12 g/L RS (or up to 18 g/L where RS does not exceed total acidity by more than 10 g/L)
Lieblich (“medium/ medium-sweet”): between 12-45 g/L RS
Süss (sweet): >45 g/L RS
These correspond to the level of RS, not necessarily how sweet or dry the wine tastes. A high acid Riesling will taste drier than a M-acid Müller-Thurgau at the same level of RS
81
Why might a producer making a halbtrocken wine not include the term on the label?
What alternative term might they use?
These wines have been falling out of popularity as consumers look for drier styles
They may use the term “feinherb” (Fine Dry) which has less obvious connotations to sweetness and is not defined by law (and can extend to wines w/ slightly higher RS)
82
What is a GER wine labeled as “feinherb”
Translates to “fine dry”
Often used for wines that otherwise would be labeled as halbtrocken (off-dry)
83
How are producers indicating wines with higher must weights (riper, more concentrated flavors)?
They are most common in the Mosel where many producers make wines at a range of sweetness levels
One of these is “Goldkapsel” (gold capsule) which designates wines that are characterized by botrytis
In some cases, shorter capsules indicate wines w/ higher levels of concentration than the average Auslese and longer capsule for a further level above that
84
What is a Bereiche?
a wine-producing district in GER
Within them, there will be individual vineyard sites (Einzellagen) and collective vineyard sites (Grosslagen)
85
What is an Einzellagen?
an individual vineyard site
Currently 2658 registered
Range in size from less than 1ha to over 200ha, but avg is ~38ha
Many are split among a # of different owners
May be used on Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein Labels
Must usually be preceded by name of the village where the vineyard(s) are located
86
What is a Grosslagen
Collective vineyard sites
Bigger than Einzellagen
Range from 600 to 1800ha
Usually comprising several Einzellagen
Currently 167
May be used on Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein Labels
Must usually be preceded by name of the village where the vineyard(s) are located
87
What would it mean if a GER wine was labeled as “Piesporter Goldtröpfchen”?
Goldtröpfchen is a vineyard in the village of Piesport (the “er” at the end of a village conveys that the vineyard belongs to the village)
In this case, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen is an Einzellage
However, Piesporter Michelsberg is a Grosslage, so you don’t necessarily know if it is Einzellage or Grosslage (?)
88
Define Leibfraumilch
A medium-dry white wine of Qualitätswein level
At least 18 g/L RS
Must contain at least 70% Riesling, Silvaner, Müller-Thurgau and Kerner, although in practice, Müller-Thurgau tends to dominate
Grapes must come from 1 of 4 regions, w/ a majority coming from Rheinhessen and Pfalz, with some produced in Rheingau and Nahe
89
What is the VDP?
Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter
Producer group established w/ the aim of creating their own vineyard classification system, stipulating more stringent rules for wine production
Founded in 1910 (under a diff name)
Originally producers from Rheingau, Rheinhessen, Pfalz, Mosel
Wanted to promote wines made w/o must enrichment, at the time called Natureweine
Currently around 200 members across all main GER wine regions
Can ID via logo (Eagle bearing a bunch of grapes) which must appear on the capsules
90
What portion of GER wine vineyards and production are accounted for by the VDP
about 5% of GERs total vineyard area
Producing 3% annual production by volume, 7.5% by value
Just under 1/4 of production is exported
91
What grape is the most commonly planted by VDP members? What proportion is this?
Riesling is the most planted variety, accounting for over 1/2 of their vineyards
92
How do VDP rules differ from GER wine rules?
VDP rules are stricter regarding grape growing and winemaking
Much lower max yields
Higher min must weights
Growing predominantly traditional grape varieties from their particular regions
Members agree to abide by this regs and are audited every 5 yr (those found not to comply can be excluded)
Encourages sustainable viticulture (over 1/5 of GER’s certified organic producers are VDP members)
Emphasis the provenance of wines, using a 4-tier vineyard classification system, refined in 2012 (only for VDP)
VDP Gutswien, VDP Ortswein, VDP Erste Lage, VDP Grosse Lage
93
What style of wines do VDP members mainly produce?
Much of production is dry wines, both red and white
Wines w/ RS account for a significant proportion of VDP in the Mosel
Even though min must weights are above those req’d by law (often significantly so), these dry wines must be labeled as Qualitätswein trocken. Prädikat levels are to be used only for wines w/ RS
94
What does VDP Gutswein indicate?
Regional wine, similar in style to generic or regional wines in Burgundy
Originate from a member’s holdings w/in a particular region
Must meet standards prescribed by VDP
Max yield 75 hL/ha
95
What does VDP Ortswein indicate?
The equivalent of village wines in Burgundy
Produced from grape varieties that are typical of their region
Max yield 75 hL/ha
96
What does VDP Erste Lage indicate?
Designates “first class” vineyards w/ distinctive characteristics and is equivalent to Burgundy premier cru
Excellent quality w/ aging potential
More stringent grape-growing and winemaking regs
Only grape varieties which local assn has deemed best-suited to a particular site or parcel may be used
Lower max yield at 60 hL/ha
Grapes must be harvested by hand
Must be at least ripe enough to quality for Spätlese status
Wines produced using “traditional winemaking techniques”
Village and vineyard name must appear on label
97
What does VDP Grosse Lage indicate?
Equivalent to Burgundy grand cry
Deemed the best parcels in the best vineyards
Narrowly demarcated by local associations as those whose qualities are discernible in the finished wine
Should be outstanding quality w/ long aging potential
Stricter yields than Erste Lage at 50 hL/ha (vs 60)
Choice of grape is more restricted, and depend on Anbaugebiete
Riesling allowed in all Anbaugebieten (although only for botrytized wines in Ahr)
Spätburgunder allowed in all Anbaugebieten but Mosel and Nahe
Dry wines cannot be released until Sept 1 the year following harvest
Red wines must spend at least 12 mo aging in oak and cannot be released until Sept 1 in the year after that
Sweeter Prädikat wines may be released on May 1 following harvest
Only the vineyard name appears on the label and not the village
98
What is “Grosses Gewächs”?
Dry wine made from grapes from a Grosse Lage
The term cannot appear on the label; instead, VDP “GG” trademark is used
99
What is the Rhiengau Charta
Pronounced “Carter”
Intro’d in 1984 to promote dry wines from the best vineyard sites in Rheingau
The term Erstes Gewächs was intro’d for the best sites in Rheingau and is now a legally-protected term for wines from those sites
To use the term on ht label, wines must be produced exclusively from Riesling or Spätburgunder;
Grapes must be hand-harvested from lower-yielding vineyards
Wines must be dry w/ a min must weight equivalent to Spätlese
In 1999, members of the Charta joined the VDP in Rheingau; these members who previously used Erstes Gewächs can now label those wines GG (Grosses Gewächs)
100
When did GER most recently revise its wine classification? How long can producers use the current/old categories ?
Most recently revised in 2021
Producers can use old system until 2025
101
What stayed the same in the new GER wine classification of 2021?
Overall, the categories remain the same
PDO/ Protected designation of origin wines are Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein
PGI/ Protected Geo Indication wines are Landwein
Deutshcher Wein is wine w/o a geo designation, term for “wine” in EU legislation
102
What is the new element to the GER wine law of 2021
A geographic hierarchy for Qualitätswein, based on the principal that the smaller the unit of origin, the higher the quality of wine
In each case, the grapes must be gone w/in the defined area of origin
103
Describe Anbaugegiet under 2021 law
Wine growing area
The lowest their of Qualitätswein
Grapes must be grown in 1 of 13 wine growing areas (Mosel, Rheingau, etc.)
104
Describe GER “Regions” under 2021 law
Replaces both Bereich / collective sites and Grosslage
The label must state “region” on the label
105
Describe Ortwein under 2021 law
Village wine
The label must bear the name of the village
106
Describe Einzellage under 2021 law
Single vineyard
The wine can be dry or sweet
It must be made from 1 or more recommended varieties of Kabinett quality (i.e. meeting the min must weight for Kabinett w/in its region)
107
Describe Erstes Gewächs under 2021 law
A further category within single vineyard (Eizellage)
Grapes must come from a single vineyard or smaller parcel w/in classified area
Wines must be made from single grape variety (min 85%) and only recommended varieties approved w/in the region of origin
Wines must be dry (i.e. w/in rules for Trocken)
Possible to indicate a smaller parcel, known as Gewann, as long as it is entered into the vineyard register
Grapes must be picked selectively (any means, but subject to selection)
Yields max 60 hL/ha or 70 hL/ha on steep slopes, w/ min 11% natural alcohol
Wines must be dry (i.e. w/in rules for Trocken)
Pass a sensory test by a tasting commission if ordered by regional bodies
Subject to specified release dates (Mar 1 following year)
108
Describe Grosses Gewächs under 2021 law
A further category within single vineyard (Eizellage)
Grapes must come from a single vineyard or smaller parcel w/in classified area
Wines must be made from single grape variety (min 85%) and only recommended varieties approved w/in the region of origin
Wines must be dry (i.e. w/in rules for Trocken)
Possible to indicate a smaller parcel, known as Gewann, as long as it is entered into the vineyard register
Grapes must be hand picked
Yields are limited to max 50 hL/ha w/ a min natural alcohol content of 12%
Wines have to pass a sensory test by tasting commission
Subject to specified release dates (Sept 1 of following year for Whites, Mar 1 of next year for red)
109
What are the 4 highest producing wine regions (Anbaugebiete) of GER? What % of production do they represent?
Rheinhessen, Pfalz, Baden, Württemberg
Produce almost 80% of GER’s wine
110
While a majority of GER’s wine producing regions are in the S/ SW of the country, what are the exceptions? What do they produce?
Saale-Unstrut, Sachsen in the east of GER
Produce predominantly whites from Müller Thurgau, Weissburgunder and Riesling
111
Describe the Rheinhessen
% of GERs vineyards
Relative production level
Relative yields
Climate
Location of vineyards
Color of dominant grapes
Home to just under 1/4 of GER’s vineyards
Largest in terms of production
Yields among highest in GER
Relatively warm and dry, sheltered by various mountain ranges including the Hunsrück and Taunus
Majority of vineyards planted on warm, fertile valley floors, ideal for high volume, inexpensive wines
White grapes dominate at 71% of plantings
112
What are the dominant grapes of Rheinhessen?
Riesling is most-planted
Followed closely by Müller-Thurgau, which along w/ the other GER crosses is mainly used in inexpensive blends
Sizable plantings of Silvaner, Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder
Dornfelder is leading black variety, covering 2x that of Spätburgunder
113
What is the main quality level of wine from Rheinhessen
Bulk production still dominates, and plantings are on the rise to supply it
Majority of this production is under control of merchant houses
Quality wine is dominated by small estates and a # of co-ops
A # of estates are establishing a reputation for high-quality wines
114
Where are the best / highest quality vineyards in Rheinhessen?
Rheinterrasse, a stretch of steeply-sloping vineyards on the W bank of the river around Nierstein and Oppenheim
E-facing aspect mean they receive warming a.m. sun in th ecoolest part of the day, enhancing ripeness
Proximity to Rhine is moderating influence, meaning pm and AU temps remain warmer than in vineyards away from river
Rieslings from this area often show ripe lemon and peach
W/in Rheinterrasse, a strip known as Roter Hang is distinguished by its Rotliegenden soil, an iron rich soil consisting of slate, clay and sandstone. Wines show smoky character
115
What is Roter Hang?
A strip w/in the Rheinterrasse
Distinguished by Rotliegenden soil (iron rich, consisting of slate, clay, sandstone)
Wines from here show smoky character
116
Describe Pfalz
Where
Noteworthy geographic features and implications
Relative size
White vs red?
Narrow strip of vineyards squeezed btw Haardt. Mtns to W and Rhine plain to E
Unusually for GER, vineyards of Pfalz are not centered along a river valley
Runs N from Alsace: the Haardt are a continuation of the Vosges and produce a similar rain shadow effect, making Pfalz the driest GER wine-producing region and the only one where drought can be a concern
Area under vine is only slightly smaller than Rheinhessen and production is not far behind
White grape varieties dominate
117
What is the driest (winemaking) region of GER?
Why?
What implication?
Pfalz
Haardt mountains run N from Alsace
These are an extension of the Vosges
Create similar rain shadow effect
Only GER region where drought is a concern
118
What are the top grapes of Pfalz?
Riesling ~1/4
Followed by Müller-Thurgau, Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder
Dornfelder is the most plated black variety, and 2nd overall, but there are also significant plantings of Spätburgunder
119
How do wines of Pfalz compare to Rheinhessen?
Due to the warmer temps, wines tend to be slightly fuller-bodied w/ riper fruit flavors than those from Rheinhessen
120
Where are the best vineyards of Pfalz?
Around the area known as the Mittelhaardt around Bad Dürkheim, Wachenheim, first, Deidesheim and Ruppertsberg
N part of Pfalz
S or E-facing steeply sloping vineyards in the foothills of the Haardt gain max sunshine and protected from winds, contributing to the production of ripe, full-bodied Riesling
121
What are the soils in the best vineyards in Pfalz?
Wide variety
Limestone, sandstone, basalt, clay
122
What area of Pfalz was historically known for inexpensive wine production but now is increasing quality? Describe it
Südliche Weinstrrasse
More fertile sandstone soils
Like Alsace, went back and forth between FR and GER
Known for Spätburgunder, Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder
123
Describe Baden
Location
Climate
Wine region split into multiple distinct areas (Bereiche)
Main vineyard stretches from just N of Heidelberg to the Swiss border in the south
There are also vineyards between Franken and Württemberg, and around the Bodensee (Lake Constance)
The main vineyard area is situated on the E side of the Rhine, opposite Alsace, and also benefits from rain shadow of Voges
This, coupled w/ southerly attitude, makes it GER’s warmest, sunniest, and driest wine-producing regions
124
What style of wine is Baden known for?
Best known for red wines
Spätburgunder is the most planted variety
Those produced here are amongst GER’s best, w/ complex flavors often enhanced by oak aging
Despite its reputation for red wine, 59% of plantings are white
Warm, dry conditions make Baden ideal for production of high-volume, inexpensive blends; Müller-Thurgau is the 2nd most planted variety
125
Describe the Spätburgunder from Kaiserstuhl
Baden sub-region
Steep, S-facing slopes of an extinct volcano produce the fullest-boded wines w/ high alcohol, complex and smoky ripe fruit flavors
126
How does Riesling fare in Baden?
Riesling only takes up a relatively small area in Baden
But, some high-quality, fuller-boded examples are produced at all Prädikat levels
127
What is the structure of the wine biz in Baden?
While there are many small estates (ex, Bernhard Huber), co-ops are responsible for 5% of production
This is lead by Badischer Winzerkeller, one of the largest in GER
128
Describe Württemberg
Location
Climate
Located around Stuttgart
E of Baden, S of Franken
Warm summer temps are ideal for reds, w/ 68% of plantings
129
Describe the grapes and wines of Württemberg
Produces mainly light, fruity red wines which are mostly consumed domestically
Vast majority of production comes from central co-op Möglingen
Starting to change as a # of smaller estates are gaining a rep for producing VG quality wines, esp from steep, terraced vineyards above the river Neckar and its tributaries
68% black grape varieties
While Spätburgunder is increasingly important, the most planted varieties are Trollinger, Lemburger, and Schwarzriesling — a potential differentiator on export markets
In addition to light and fruit style, fuller-body style w/ riper fruit and higher alcohol are increasingly produced, particularly from Lemberger, often w/ oak age
Riesling accounts for over 1/2 white plantings
130
Describe the grapes of the Mosel
Famous for producing some of the world’s greatest Rieslings
Whites make up over 90% of plantings
Riesling makes up over 60% on its own
131
Describe Mosel’s location
One of the most northerly wine producing regions of GER
Site selection is essential to ensure grapes can ripen
Best vineyards on steep, S-facing slopes overlooking the Mosel river which enjoy best sun exposure and sunshine effect from river
Dark colored slate soils play important role in radiating heat
Generally split into 3 sections: Upper Mosel, Middle Mosel, Lower Mosel. Middle Mosel = best vineyards
132
Name some of the most famous vineyards of Mosel
(village 1st, followed by vineyards in brackets)
Brauneberg (Juffer, Juffer-Sonnenuhr)
Erden (Treppchen, Prälat)
Graach (Himmelreich, Domprobst)
Ürzig (Wüzgarten)
Whelen (Sonnenuhr)
Bernkastel (Doctor)
Piesport (Goldtröpchen)
133
How do Mosel Rieslings differ from other GER?
Paler in color
Lighter in body
Lower alcohol
Higher acidity
Pronounced floral and green fruit aromas
Balance of acidity and flavor intensity gives these wines potential for long bottle age
Strong reputation for producing sweeter styles in Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese categories and also for sweet
Almost always cold enough for Eiswein
134
What soils are characteristic for Mosel?
Slate
Comes in a variety of colors — grey, blue, brown, red
Producers are increasingly interested in how subtle differences can influence the character of the wines
135
What is the topography of Mosel and its implications?
Steepest sites mean working vineyards is expensive and labor intensive
Low yields req’d for sweetest wines such as BA and TBA also impact cost of production
136
Comment on the quality level of wines of the Mosel
Steepest sites mean working vineyards is expensive and labor intensive
Low yields req’d for sweetest wines such as BA and TBA also impact cost of production
These costs, along w/ quality of many Mosel Rieslings means that wine prices are amongst the most expensive in GER
However, there are flatter sties, ex: around Piesport, which are used for producing less complex, inexpensive wines, particularly from Müller-Thurgau
137
What is the main co-op of Mosel?
What is its “claim to fame”?
Moselland co-op in Bernkastel
Produces around 20% of Mosel’s wine
Makes it the world’s largest producer of Riesling
138
What’s the structure of the wine biz in Mosel?
About 20% is produced by Moselland co-op
Home to both small producers (Egon Müller, Markus Molitor) and major wine co’s such as F.W. Langguth who source wine for the large Erben and Blue Nun brands
139
Where are the best vineyards of the Mosel?
along the sheltered side valleys of the tributaries Saar and Ruwer
Having S, SE and SW aspects
Due to higher altitude of the vineyards, temps are a little lower than in the middle Mosel, and acidity levels can be even higher
Most famous is Scharzhofberg in Saar
140
Describe the location and climate of Franken
Vineyards create a W-shaped course along the S-facing slopes of the river Main and its tributaries
Being further east, has the most continental climate of GER’s principal wine regions = warmer summers but a shorter growing season w/ cooler AU and harsh WI
Spring frosts are a particular hazard
141
Describe the main grapes of Franken
White grapes ~82% of plantings
Production of drier styles is a more long-standing tradition than elsewhere
Müller-Thurgau most planted; Riesling is small proportion
Silvaner is 2nd most planted and produces some of the best, most distinctive wines of the region (plantings are falling)
142
Describe Silvaner wines from Franken
Tend to get best sites, which are less frost prone
Full-body dry wines
Floral and wet stone
143
What is a “Bocksbeutel”?
a traditional flat, round-shaped bottle w/ a short neck common in Franken
144
What is the traditional bottle used in Franken?
Bocksbeutel
Flat, round-shaped bottle w/ a short neck
145
Describe the Nahe location and climate
Between the Mosel and the Rheinhessen
Relatively small # of vineyards, mainly small estates, scattered over a relatively large area
Results in a wine variety of soils and growing conditions
Region as a whole is protected by the Hunsrück Mtns, resulting in mild temps and low rainfall
Slightly warmer, so Rieslings have slightly lower acidity but riper fruit and more body than those of Mosel, but less too than Rheingau and Rheinhessen
146
What are the main grapes of Nahe
Predominantly white wine region
Whites account for just over 3/4 of all plantings
Riesling leads at nearly 30%
147
Describe the key vineyards of Nahe
Vineyards in the E of the region, particularly those on the S-facing banks of the Nahe between Scholssböckelheim and Bad Kreuznach have some of the warmest conditions, benefitting from the moderating influences of the Rhine and Nahe rivers and gaining max sunlight
In this strip, the slopes can be as steep as in Mosel
Soils are a mixture of slate and sandstone
Cooler conditions can be found to the W of the region
148
Where are the more inexpensive wines of Nahe produced?
where the slopes are gentle, the soil is deeper and more fertile
These areas produce inexpensive Müller-Thurgau (region’s 2nd most planted variety) as well as good and VG wines from Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder
149
What is the most planted red variety in Nahe?
Dornfelder, ahead of Spätburgunder
Black varieties make up just under 1/4 of plantings
150
Describe Rheingau
Location
Climate
Implications
Small but highly prestigious region producing some of GER’s highest quality and most age worthy Rieslings
Stretch of Rhine from Wiesbaden to Lorchhausen as well as a short section of the river Main around Hochheim
Across the river from Rheinhessen, also protected from cold, northerly winds by the W end of the Taunus mountains
S-facing aspect of vineyards means that Rieslings here can be fuller=bodied w/riper fruit than those of Mosel
151
What is the frost situation in Rheingau?
The Rhine is wider here, about 1km (0.6m across)
This has a moderating effect on temps and reduces frost risk
Also increases humidity, providing conditions for botrytis dev in AU
152
What is the focus of Rheingau?
focus on quality
Yields are lower than avg for GER
153
Where are the best vineyards of Rheingau
Situated on steep slopes around Rüdesheim, Geisenheim (home of the famous research institute), Johannisberg, Hattenheim, and Erbach
Sites on the mid-slope are thought to be subject to the best conditions, at least for dry wines
Some moderating influence from the river, but far enough away to avoid much of the humidity that can lead to fungal disease
154
What are the soils of the Rheingau?
soils range from sand, loam and loess around Hochheim in the east, to sandstone and slate further west
155
What styles dominate Rheingau wine?
White wines dominate, accounting for 86% of plantings
Riesling is especially dominant making up 78% alone
Majority are made in a dry style
In the Western end, were the river turns to head N again, Spätburgunder is a key grape
156
What is often found in many of the winery names of Rheingau?
Rheingau was once the home of the GER aristocracy?
“Schloss” is found in many of the winery names; denotes a castle or manor house
157
Describe Ahr
One of GER’s smallest wine producing regions
Only a few 100 ha under vine
Also one of most northerly, yet black grapes dominate w/ 83% of plantings
158
What allows black grapes to grow in the Ahr?
despite Ahr’s northerly location, the Ahr river cost a narrow, sheltered Vally w/ steep, S-facing slopes and soil dominated by heat-retaining dark slate and greywacke (dark sandstone)
159
What was the traditional style of wine from Ahr? What is it now?
Traditionally, black grape were late harvested and produced w/ RS
Now a source of VG Spätburgunder, fermented to dryness w/ relatively high tannins and spice from oak age
160
What is the nature of the wine biz in Ahr?
wines from small estates are increasingly making to export markets
Co-ops still produce around 3/4 of Ahr wine
The Mayscholss co-op was formed in 1868 and is thought to be the world oldest co-op
161
How many growers in GER
about 16k, w/ half owning 3 ha or less
GERs best wines are produced by wine estates which grow and vinify their own grapes
Estates very enormously in size, from over 100 ha to small family concerns o f5 ha or less
Many growers sell their grapes to merchant houses (Weinkellerei) which are one of
162
Describe the domestic market for wine in GER
despite being a beer-drinking market, GER is 4th largest consumer of wine @ ~20mm hL / year
It cannot satisfy the thirst via homegrown production
Routinely imports 14-15mm hL/year
domestic market has always been important to the GER wine indudstry
Shift to drier styles and increase in red wine production were heavily influenced by the changing tastes among GER consumers
163
What is the state of GER wine exports?
- Volume has halved in this century
1st decade of 2000s, GER regularly exported ~2MM hL/ year for ~20-25% of total production
By mid 2010s, exports had fallen to around 1MM hL/ha / year
Top 5 markets for export by volume: USA, Netherlands, UK, Norway, Sweden
