Ch2 Bordeaux Flashcards
(149 cards)
1
Q
Describe the location of Bordeaux
A
The region lies in SW FR, close to the Atlantic Ocean
It is traversed by the River Garonne and River Dordogne, which merge to form the Gironde estuary
2
Q
What is the “Left Bank”?
A
The vineyards to the west of the Garonne and Gironde
Includes the Medoc and Graves
3
Q
What is the “Right Bank”?
A
- The vineyards to the east of the Dordogne and Gironde
4
Q
What is “Entre-Deux-Mers”?
A
Literally means, between 2 seas
The vineyards that lie between the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers
5
Q
What is the general breakdown of types of wine in Bordeaux (i.e. red vs white vs rosé)?
A
nearly 90% of plantings are black grapes
The production of AOC wine is 85% red, 10% dry white, 4% rosé and 1% sweet white
6
Q
What are the top varieties in Bordeaux?
A
Red: Merlot (~59%), Cab Sauv (~20%), Cab Franc (~8%), other reds (~3%)
White: Sémillon (~4%), Sauv Blanc (~4%), Muscadelle (~1%)
7
Q
Describe the key developments in the history of Bordeaux related to the land and how wine is distributed
A
17th & 18th century, Dutch residents drain marshy area that was previously unsuitable for agriculture
By mid-18th century, the wines from such properties as Lafite and Margaux were already widely appreciated across Europe and even America
Success was also b/c the city had long been a center for wine exports from other regions such as Bergerac
Led to an entrepreneurial class of merchants whose origins lay in Britain, Ireland, GER, Holland and elsewhere
These merchants and brokers distributed the wines of B and established their international reputation
8
Q
What was the first important classification of Bordeaux?
A
in 1855, a major commercial exhibition, the Exposition Universelle de Paris, resulted in the Bordeaux chamber of commerce asking the region’s brokers to comply a classification of wines
The classification was based on price at the time
The estates of the Médoc plus Haut-Brion in Graves were classed into 5 bands, and those of Sauternes into 3
While such classifications had been made before, they were informal assessments
This classification had official status and remains essentially unaltered to this day, continuing to influence prices
9
Q
How many hectares are planted in Bordeaux?
A
- about 111K ha planted
10
Q
What is the breakdown of % of Bordeaux/ Bordeaux Supérieur (i.e. inexpensive to mid-priced) versus premium or super-premium?
A
Around 70% of all Bordeaux bottled wines are inexpensive or mid-priced
Around 30% are premium or super-premium
11
Q
How many hectares is Pomerol?
A
- about 800 ha
12
Q
Describe the climate of Bordeaux
A
Moderate Maritime
Cool Atlantic Ocean just west of the vineyards has a cooling influence
Good years see gentle heat throughout the growing season with sufficient rainfall to promote growth and ripening, and fine, relatively dry and warm early autumns to allow for steady and complete ripening
~950mm rain/yr
13
Q
What does the climate of Bordeaux do for grape development?
A
The climate can result in an excellent balance of tannins, sugar and acidity, which partly explains the remarkable longevity of great vintages here
14
Q
What factors mitigate the climate of the Left Bank of Bordeaux?
A
the Landes Forest helps to protect the Left Bank from Atlantic storms
Estates that fringe these forests, such as Domaine de Chevalier in Léognan and many in Listrac in the Médoc, are cooler and thus more marginal than their neighbors in the east
In the N Médoc, the forest is less of a feature and than landscape is more open to maritime influence, and is therefore cooler than in S Médoc and Graves
15
Q
Describe the rainfall in Bordeaux
A
average is 950mm although it is variable, with marked variation from year to year on the times within the year when it falls
The timing of rainfall can have a big influence on vintage variation
16
Q
What are the key moments that rain can fall that affect the vintage and what are the results?
A
Rain at flowering can result in poor fruit set
Rain throughout the growing season can result in increased disease pressure
Rain at and following véraison can lead to unripe fruit and fungal diseases
Rain at harvest can dilute flavors
17
Q
How has climate change affected Bordeaux?
A
- It has led to hot, dry summers with insufficient rainfall
18
Q
What can hot, dry summers with insufficient rainfall man for wines?
A
Hardy grape varieties planted across Bordeaux can resist extremes of temperature but hot dry years (such as 2003) can lead to wines, both red and white, with low acidity that lack balance
They can also lead to wines being more alcoholic than in the past as growers wait for phenolic ripeness before picking
19
Q
When has frost been a notable issue in Bordeaux?
A
- 1956, 1991, 2017
20
Q
Compare the volume produced in the frost-affected 2017 vintage versus the 10 year average
A
in 2017, 33% less wine was made than the 10-year avg
40% less than the 2016 harvest
21
Q
What is the term for gravel mounds in Bordeaux?
A
- Croupes
22
Q
Describe the soils of the Left Bank of Bordeaux
A
Deposits of gravel and stony soils carried to the region by floodwaters from the Pyrenees and Massif Central many thousands of years ago
Depending on their origin, the gravel is mixed w/ clay and sand
These gravel mounds are not especially high (highest in Margaux at 32m) nor do they cover the whole region
Gravel, unlike clay, drains well, so even after the showers and storms, to which Left Bank is prone, the roots of the vines soon dry out and the grapes can continue to ripen
23
Q
Describe the pros and cons of gravel versus clay
A
Gravel, unlike clay, drains well, so even after the showers and storms that are common in the Left Bank, the roots of the vines soon dry out and the grapes can continue to ripen
Gravel soils also contribute to heat retention. After a warm summer day, the pebbles and stones retain warmth and continue to gradually release it upwards onto the vines, facilitating their slow ripening
However, in hot dry years, such as 2003 and 2005 (and 2016?), the excellent drainage can put some vines at risk of drought stress
24
Q
Describe the soils of the Right Bank of Bordeaux
A
There is far more clay in the soil, although there are significant patches of gravel in certain sectors of the Libournais
The best wines come from grapes grown on the limestone plateau or gravel section that borders Pomerol
25
What grape is more suited to clay?
Merlot. It ripens fully in almost all vintages and accumulates more sugar and thus more alcohol than Cab Sauv and Cab Franc, which has been seen as a benefit in the past
26
Describe Merlot: budding, ripening, disease pressure, sugar levels, structure
Early budding —> vulnerable to spring frosts
Mid-ripening —> can be picked early before autumn rain
Susceptible to coulure, drought, and most botrytis bunch rot —> sorting is necessary to maintain quality
Can ripen fully in cooler years
Large berry size
Reaches higher sugar levels and therefore higher potential alcohol levels that CS and CF
Contributes Med to pronounced intensity of fruit (strawberry, red plum, herbaceous flavors in cooler years, cooked blackberry, black plum in hot years), Med tannins, med to high alcohol to the Bordeaux blend
27
Describe Cabernet Sauvignon: budding, skins, ripening, disease susceptibility, contribution to Bordeaux blends
Late budding —> protection from spring frosts
Small berried, thick skinned, high tannin content —> wines w/ high tannins
Prone to fungal diseases, esp powdery mildew and trunk diseases Eutypa and Esca
Ripens late (and hence needs to be grown on warmer soil), making it vulnerable to early autumn rains
Produces highest quality fruit on warm, well-drained soils, such as gravel beds of the Médoc
Contributes pronounced violet, black currant, black cherry and menthol or herbaceous flavors, medium alcohol, and high acidity and tannins to Bordeaux blend
28
What does Cab Franc contribute to Bordeaux Blends?
- red fruit, high acidity, and medium tannins
29
Is Malbec still used in Bordeaux blends?
After the hard frosts of 1956, Malbec was mainly replaced w/ Merlot, which is easier to grow in Bordeaux
30
Describe Petit Verdot as used in Bordeaux blends
Buds early and ripens later than CS, making it unpopular w/ growers in the past
Prone to spring frosts, a failure to ripen in cool years, and to rain around harvest
Does better in the warmer parts of the Médoc
When used, often as less than 5% of the blend, it contributes powerful, deeply colored wines w/ spice notes and high tannins
Increasingly valued, especially in warmer climate where it is more likely to ripen
31
Describe the Sémillon grape in Bordeaux
Mid-ripening
Susceptible to botrytis bunch rot and to noble rot in the right conditions
Can carry high yields
Low intensity apple, lemon and, if under-ripe, grassy flavors
M body, M alcohol
M to M acid
Low to Med intensity aromas, weight and body and medium acidity
In Botrytis-affected sweet Bordeaux wines, it contributes pronounced honey and dried fruit (lemon, peach) character and waxy texture
32
Sauv Blanc in Bordeaux
It contributes its grassy and gooseberry fruit and high acidity to dry white blinds and to sweet botrytis affected wines b/c of worldwide popularity of the variety
33
Describe Muscadelle
- White variety needs to be planted on well=-exposed site, as it is very prone to Botrytis
34
How are vineyards typically planted in Bordeaux? What implications?
Closely spaced vines at 10k vines / ha
Vines planted 1M apart w/ 1M between rows
This is suitable for the relatively infertile soils, resulting in moderate vigor
Close planting adds to costs as more vines and more trellising have to be bought, specialist over-the-row tractors bought, and more time is needed for vine training, ploughing and spraying
However, close planing makes the best use of expensive vineyard land
Vineyards in less prestigious areas are often planted at lower density, such as Bordeaux AOC at 3-4k vines/ ha
35
What are the pros & cons of high density planting (in Bordeaux)?
Cons
adds to costs as more vines and more trellising have to be bought,
specialist over-the-row tractors bought,
and more time is needed for vine training, ploughing and spraying
Pros:
However, close planing makes the best use of expensive vineyard land
36
Where are planting densities higher in Bordeaux, prestigious appellations or basic Bordeaux AOC? Why?
Densities are higher in the prestigious appellations because higher densities increase the costs but allow these areas to make best use of expensive vineyard land
37
What is the most common pruning system in Bordeaux?
Head-trained, replacement cane-pruned, in which canes are trained along wires
On the Left Bank, 2 canes are trained, called Double Guyot
On the right Bank, the single-cane, Single Guyot is more common
The second method is cordon-trained, spur-pruned, which is rare in Bordeaux, although some prestigious estates favor it, arguing it reduces yields naturally and gives better aeration to the bunches
38
Why do some prestigious Bordeaux estates favor cordon-trained, spur-pruned vines?
They argue it reduces yields naturally and gives better aeration to the bunches
39
Why is canopy management important in Bordeaux?
Bordeaux’s moderate, damp climate makes it important to reduce the incidence of downy mildew, powdery mildew, and botrytis bunch rot
40
Why do Bordeaux estates use leaf removal? When is it performed?
leaf removal typically happens in the summer
- however, since leaves protect the bunches from sunburn and extreme heat, it is less risky to remove leaves late in the season when extreme heat is less likely and the bunches can benefit from better aeration
It is intended to improve aeration and deter rot
It also exposes grapes to ultraviolet light to aid ripening
41
What happens when an attack of mildew is followed by rain?
Tractors may have difficulty entering the vineyards to spray
The rain washes away treatments, which can compound problems
42
What is “soft pruning” and why has it become increasingly popular in Bordeaux?
This process includes making only small cuts if at all possible, leaving some extra wood at the cut site to allow the wood to dry out and maximizing the opportunity for sap to flow around the plant
Eutypa dieback and Esca have become major problems, rotting the vine from the inside
This treatment seems to be fairly successful in combatting it
43
How is Flavescence dorée controlled in Bordeaux?
It can be contained by using insecticides
However, such treatments make the growing # of organic and biodynamic producers uneasy b/c of the use of synthetic insecticides
44
What is “bunch-thinning”? Is it common in Bordeaux?
Bunch thinning was approved for practice about 20 years ago
It is a way to correct vines carrying a high yield and to improve concentration of flavor
It is now less popular, as some viticulturists argue that it can unbalance the vine and that pruning short in winter is a better way to control yields
Today, the emphasis is on allowing vines to find a natural balance, avoiding corrective measures unless there is no alternative
45
What options do viticulturists have for correcting high yield?
Bunch-thinning (less popular now)
Pruning short in the winter
The emphasis today is on allowing vines to find a natural balance, avoiding corrective measures unless there is no alternative
46
Discuss the trend in yields in Bordeaux
Yields have decreased over the past 2 decades
They now average 50 hL/ha (wines have benefited)
However, there was a fashion for exaggeratedly low yields, especially on the Right Bank, which resulted in super-concentrated wines that could be jammy or fatiguing
Moreover, the sense of place (terroir) was obscured
47
How has harvest changed in Bordeaux?
harvest used to be a random procedure
Teams were hired to arrive for a defined period, based on an informed guess as to when the grapes would be ripe
This resulted in some grapes being picked under-rip, others overripe, and the remainder just right
Today, harvesting teams are hired for a longer period and expect some days of paid idleness should harvest be interrupted by rain
48
Is harvest by hand or mechanized in Bordeaux?
It can be either
In some parts of the region, such as the northern Médoc, it is hard to find workers to harvest by hand, as vineyards are 2 hr drive from Bordeaux
So, many vineyards are picked by machine out of economic necessity
Some properties also use machines to collect grapes quickly if fungal disease pressure is high or if the weather forecast is for rain/storms
Grapes for high-volume, inexpensive wines are typically picked by machine
49
What are the pros/cons of machine harvesting in Bordeaux?
Pro
Allows to pick at the perfect moment of ripeness w/o dealing w/ the vagaries of harvesting teams’ schedules
Avoids having to find workers, who may not be conveniently located to vineyards
Allows grapes to be picked quickly if fungal disease pressure is high or if the weather forecast is for rain/ storms
Con
Harvesting by hand gives greater quality control, which is why tope estates routinely pick by hand
50
What level of grape sorting is typical in Bordeaux?
Levels vary according to the value of the wine and the quality of the vintage
Grapes for inexpensive wines will not be routinely sorted
Grapes for high quality wines will be sorted 1st by those harvesting by hand as they pick, then by hand on a moving or vibrating belt, or, in well-funded properties, by optical sorting
51
What is “plot-by-plot” winemaking?
How is it employed in Bordeaux?
What challenges does it present?
The picking of individual plots for optimum ripeness and then making separate small lots of wine with those grapes
Employed by properties that produce high-quality wines
Requires added care over selecting harvesting dates, and also requires more and smaller vessels to be available in the winery, adding to cost but producing higher quality
52
What is typical in terms of fermentation of red wines in Bordeaux?
Closed vats with pump-overs is the usual practice
Most properties used cultured yeast for its reliability
Fermentation vessels include wood, stainless steel, concrete
All vessels are fitted for temp control
53
What fermentation temps are common for red Bordeaux?
How long does skin maceration usually last?
Temps depend on the style of wine and quality of the vintage
Mid-range fermentation temps (~25C?/77F?) and a short period on the skins after fermentation (5-7 days) is typical for early-drinking wines to preserve primary fruit and limit tannin extraction (guesstimate is based on range of 77-85F overall for reds)
Mid-range to warm fermentation temps 25-29C/ 77-85F?) and a total of 14-30 days on the skins may be employed for wines intended to be aged for many years in bottle.
Maceration times are reduced in poor vintages if the fruit is not fully ripe
54
What happens to red Bordeaux when maceration is complete?
Wine is drained off,
The remaining skins are pressed, either in pneumatic presses or in modern vertical or hydraulic presses, which are believed to give the best results because of their gentle extraction
The press wine, like the free-run, is transferred into 225L barrels (barriques)
The winemaker will later decide what proportion of press wine the final blend will contain, depending on whether the free-run needs more structure and tannin
55
What is a key determining factor as to if/ how much press juice will be added to free-run in the final red Bordeaux blend?
Mainly depends on whether the free-run needs more structure and tannin
56
Describe MLF/C in red Bordeaux
Where does it take place?
Indigenous or inoculated yeast?
Takes place either un tanks or in the barrels
It’s argued that if it is in barrel there is better integration of wine and wood
As top quality wine will be tasted initially in the following spring by buyers and wine journalists, many estates will inoculate to ensure rapid completion of MLF/C
Cellars may be heated to encourage efficient conversion
57
How is red Bordeaux typically aged?
Simpler wines are typically aged in SS, concrete vats, or large vats for 4-6 mo. and oak chips may be added for an oak flavor effect
High quality wines are matured in FRO barriques, most common is a mix of new, 1yr and 2yr old barriques,
Some prestigious properties will use up to 100% new oak, though the % of new oak has been decreasing in recent years to more moderate levels for many estates
58
Describe use of cooperages in (quality) red Bordeaux
Winemakers often choose the barrel makers, often opting for a range of cooperages for greater perceived complexity
The level of toast is typically M to M+
59
How long are red Bordeaux wines typically matured?
Wines will typically be matured for 18-24 mo, depending on the quality of the wine and the progress of maturation in any given year
Wines of greater concentration and higher tannins need longer
60
Is red Bordeaux typically racked? If so, what protocols are common?
Yes, it is typically racked every 3 mo (traditionally)
Some prefer to leave the wines undisturbed on the lees and may use micro-oxygenation to replace the oxygenation caused by racking to prevent reduction and to help soften tannins
61
What can happen to red wines that are not racked regularly? What alternatives are there?
Leaving the wine undisturbed on the lees results in less exposure to O2 which can cause reduction and can keep tannins from softening
Micro-oxygenation can be used to replace racking
62
How is blending approached for red Bordeaux?
There are 2 approaches to blending
Most estates, particularly those who will present their wines for the en primeur tastings, blend over the winter.
This is not only a near-final blend of the main wine, but also a deselection of wines that will end up in the estate’s 2nd or 3rd label, or will be sold off as bulk to merchants
A minority of estates blend a few months before bottling, when the blending team can assess the evolution of each variety and each lot before making the final decisions
63
What are the 2 styles of Rosé made in Bordeaux?
The deeper-colored, traditional Clairet
The lighter colored rosé
64
What are the main varieties used in Bordeaux rosé?
- Merlot and Cab Sauv
65
How is rosé typically made in Bordeaux?
In the past (think Clairet), wines were made either from younger vines or by the short maceration and bleeding off method
With these methods, the rosé is a by-product of red wine production in which the aim is to produce deeper colored red musts and wines
The newer style of lighter colored rosé is more likely to be made by direct pressing
66
For (dry) white Bordeaux, what is typical in terms of crushing/ pressing?
Grapes can be pressed directly on arrival at the winery
This method delivers max freshness
Grapes can be left on the skins for up to 24 hours before being pressed
This method delivers more aromatic and phenolic complexity, although the grapes need to be fully healthy, otherwise off-flavors could be extracted
67
Describe how early drinking white Bordeaux is fermented and matured
These wines are typically fermented at cool temps in SS tanks
Inexpensive wine may then remain in the tanks for a few months before being clarified and bottled
Mid-priced wines are often left on the fine lees for 6-12 months, which will give them more weight & complexity
68
How are higher quality white Bordeaux wines fermented and matured?
Often fermented and aged in barriques, with a varying proportion of new oak
Many producers block MLF/C to retain freshness & acidity
It used to be common for the fine lees to be regularly stirred (bâtonnage) to enrich the wines further. However, today many winemakers are wary of the technique which can, especially in hot years, give the wines excessive body in relation to their levels of acidity
69
Who is responsible for the contemporary style of white Bordeaux?
- Professor Denis Dubourdieu and André Lurton
70
What is considered to be the contemporary style of white Bordeaux?
This style advocates for
An increased focus on Sauv Blanc
Skin contact for extraction of aromatics
A reduction in the proportion of new oak used in fermentation and maturation stages
71
How to the yields of still wines compare to those of sweet wines in Bordeaux?
Yields are often at levels 1/3 of those acceptable for still wines, to ensure very high sugar levels in the grapes
This is achieved by pruning to a low # of buds and then the removal of any fruit that shows any signs of disease or damage as this would be highly prone to grey mold
72
What is the max yield allowed in the top sweet wine appellations of Sauternes and Barsac?
What is common?
Max yield is 25 hL/ha
Typical yields are below 10 hL/ha at very top estates
73
What contributes to the cost of top quality sweet Bordeaux?
Low yields, often below 10 hL/ha
The need for harvesters that are well trained and capable of ID’ing noble rot in contrast to grey or black rot (which are entirely negative)
For wines of high botrytis concentration, teams of pickers must go through the vineyards more than 1x — in some vintages 10-12x — to select properly botrytized and ripe bunches of berries
Harvest can last from Sept - Nov
74
When is harvest typically for sweet Bordeaux wines
- The harvest can last from Sept - Nov
75
What does the level of botrytis in the final wine depend on?
Whether the conditions are correct for the spread of noble rot, which varies from year to year
The position of the stated (proximity to areas where mist forms most regularly vs other locations)
The willingness of estates to wait for the best times to harvest and risk losing all or part of the crop due to adverse weather
And the willingness of estates to pay for multiple passes through the vineyard to select botrytis-affected fruit
76
Are all sweet Bordeaux wines made with botrytis-affected fruit?
Not necessarily. The wines may be made from varying proportions of botrytis-affected and late-harvest fruit
77
How is sweet Bordeaux wine fermented and aged?
Once picked, the grapes are handled as for a dry white wine
It is fermented in SS, concrete tanks, or barriques
It is then aged for varying periods in any of those containers
Top quality wines are typically barrel-fermented (for best integration of oak and fruit flavors) with a high proportion of new oak, and then barrel aged (18-36 mo for top wines) to encourage a gentle oxidation that will add complexity
Wines from the less prestigious sweet wine appellations are often un-oaked and released a year after the harvest
78
What is the range of new oak used on sweet Bordeaux?
Less prestigious sweet wine appellations are often un-oaked
The range from more prestigious appellations is typically 30-50%
The wines can see up to 100%, for example at Ch d’Yquem
79
What are the min/max blending requirements in Bordeaux?
While most appellations list the allowable varieties, they typically do not have rules on proportions
The proportions tend to reflect traditional plantings of the appellation
Right Bank is often more Merlot dominant, with Left Bank having more Cab Sauv
80
What are the Max yields for Bordeaux AOC?
67 hL/ha for white
62 hL/ha for rosé
60 hL/ha for reds (although at this level, wines have low flavor concentration)
81
What are the max yields for Bordeaux Supérior AOC
59 hL/ha for red (white and rosé are not allowed, although sweet wines are, where max is 25 hL/ha ?)
82
How much of the wine by volume do Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC account for relative to Bordeaux?
- 50% of all wine produced in Bordeaux
83
Describe a typical red Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Supérieur AOC
mainly made from Merlot
Typically M intensity red fruit
High acidity
M+ Tannin
M body
M alcohol
Acceptable to good quality, inexpensive to mid-price
84
Describe a typical white Bordeaux AOC
Made with increasing amounts of Sauv Blanc
M intensity gooseberry and lemon fruit
M body
High acid
M alcohol
Acceptable to good quality, inexpensive to mid-price
85
What are the max yields for Médoc and Haut-Médoc AOC?
When can these wines be released?
Red wine only, max yield 55 hL/ha
Can be sold for consumption from mid-June of the year after the harvest
86
What are the main grapes for Médoc and Haut-Médoc AOC?
Médoc is nearly equal proportions of Merlot and Cab Sauv
Haut-Médoc is ~50% Cab Sauv, 44% Merlot
87
What are the 4 famous communes in the Haut-Medoc?
What is the max yield in these regions?
What style of wine(s) allowed?
Saint-Estèphe AOC
Pauillac
Saint-Julien
Margaux
Max yield 57 hL/ha (note, higher than the 55 hL/ha in Haut-Médoc which surrounds it ?!?!)
Red wines only
88
Describe the wines of St Estèphe, Pauillac, St Julien, Margaux
Pronounced intensity blackcurrant, green bell pepper (esp in cooler vintages and red plum fruit with vanilla and cedar oak notes
M to H alcohol
High tannins
M+ body
VG to Outstanding, premium to super-premium price
89
Describe Saint-Estèphe AOC
Location
Climate
Grapes
Wine
“Growths”
Most northerly and coolest of 4 prestigious Left Bank Médoc communes
Closest to Atlantic
Merlot is 40% (more than the other 3 prestige AOCs of Haut-Médoc); Cab Sauv is up to 50% and performs best on gravel banks close to estuary
Cooler climate —> reputation for rustic wines that need many years in bottle to soften the tannins
No 1st growths, but has 2nd growths and a large # of Cru Bourgeois
90
Describe Pauillac AOC
Location
Climate
Grapes
Wine
“Growths”
South of St-Estèphe on banks of Gironde Estuary
High proportion of Cab Sauv (~62%) often on gravel banks close to the estuary, enabling it to fully ripen most years
Many of top estates have an even higher proportion of CS (70-80%) resulting in wines of high concentration and great longevity
Stylistically considered the most structured win of the Left bank, w/ high tannins & high acidity, giving capacity of long aging
3 of the 5 First Growths
Higest proportion of cru classé wine, around 85% of production, followed closely by St-Julien
91
Describe Saint-Julien AOC
Location
Climate
Grapes
Wine
“Growths”
S of Pauillac, N of Margaux
Like Pauillac, very high proportion of Cab Sauv
High proportion of cru classé production
Very homogenous gravel soils
Stylistically regarded as mid-way between powerful structure of Pauillac and finesse of Margaux
No First Growths but 5 Second Growtsh
92
Describe Margaux AOC
Location
Climate
Grapes
Wine
“Growths”
Farthest S of the 4 premier sub-appellations of Haut-Médoc
High proportion of cru classé production and 1 First Growth
While Cab Sauv is the most planted, there is proportionately slightly less of CS and slightly more Merlot than in other 3 sub-appellations
Stony, gravelly soils
Grapes ripen a few days earlier than Pauillac and 7-10 days earlier than more northern Médoc appellations
Clay seams mean that some soils can require supplementary drainage, adding to the investment required
Has a reputation for perfumed wines with silky tannins
93
Describe Listrac-Médoc and Moulis AOC
Location
Climate
Grapes
Wine
“Growths”
2 appellations for red wines are further from the river than the 4 singe commune premier appellations of the Haut-Médoc
Therefore, they benefit less from the moderating influence of the estuary and have less gravel soils
Are allowed to release wine for consumption slightly earlier, but the other AOC requirements are the same as for the 4 premier AOCs
Wines are typically good to very good, mid-priced to premium priced
94
Briefly describe Graves AOC
Location
Wines allowed and %
Max yield(s)
General quality level
Large appellation for white and red
Stretches south from city of Bordeaux
Max 58 hL/ha for white, 55 hL/ha for red
85% of wine is red
Mostly acceptable to good, inexpensive to mid-price
95
Briefly describe Graves Superieures AOC
Location
Wines allowed and %
Max yield(s)
Same location as Graves (?) — South of Bordeaux
Restricted to late-picked and/or botrytis-affected sweet wines
Max yield of 40 hL/ha (higher than Sauternes’ 25 hL/ha)
96
Briefly describe Pessac-Léognan AOC
Location
Terroir
Wines allowed and %
General quality level
Classified Chateau
Compact appellation includes some of S suburbs of the city of Bordeaux and is a sub-region w/in Graves AOC
Has both the gravel soils and moderating effect of the Garonne like the top communes of the Médoc
Known for high-quality, often barrel fermented and aged white wines and high quality red wines
The red/white split is 80%/20%
1 First Growth (Haut Brion) as well as all of the “cru classé” properties of the graves classification
Reputation for producing the best white wines of Bordeaux
Max yield is 54 hL/ha for both red and white
97
Briefly describe white Pessac-Léognan AOC wines
grape(s)
Profile
Quality/price
Sauv Blanc and Semillon
Pronounced aromas of gooseberry, lemon and grapefruit w/ vanilla and clove oak notes
M+ body
M+ to High acidity
M to High alcohol
VG to Outstanding, premium to super-premium price
98
Briefly describe red Pessac-Léognan AOC wines
grape(s)
Profile
Quality/price
Similar in style and price to the red wines of the 4 most prestigious Médoc communes
Pronounced intensity blackcurrant, green bell pepper (esp in cooler vintages and red plum fruit with vanilla and cedar oak notes
M to H alcohol
High tannins
M+ body
VG to Outstanding, premium to super-premium price
99
Describe Entre-deux-Mers
comment on its size
style(s) of wine allowed
Max yield(s)
Quality & Price
2nd largest appellation in terms of hectares, though much smaller than Bordeaux AOC
Only produces white wines under the AOC; although red wines are produced, they must be labeled as Bordeaux/B Supérieur
Max yield is 65 hL/ha resulting in some wines of light flavor intensity
Acceptable to good quality, inexpensive to mid-priced
100
Describe the Right Bank
Location
Relative size of estates
Grape (s)
Soil(s)
N of the Garrone estuary
Characterized by many small estates, some as small as 1ha
Merlot dominates, doing well on cool, clay soils, followed by Cab Franc and small plantings of Cab Sauv
101
Describe Saint-Émilion and Saint-émilion Grand Cru AOC
location
Style(s)
Grapes
Yield(s)
Min maturation(s)
Both cover the same area, Right Bank, N of Dordogne and Entre-deux-Mers, E of Libourne
Red wine only
Merlot dominant at 60%, followed by Cab Franc
Max yields: S-E 53 hL/ha vs S-E GC 46 hL/ha
Min maturation: S-E = 6mo vs S-E GC = 20mo
102
Describe the profile of top quality Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC
Pronounced red and black plum fruit with noticeable vanilla and clove new oak character
Full body
High alcohol
M+ to High acidity
M+ to High Tannins
Able to age many years in bottle
103
How many satellites of Saint-Émilion AOC are there?
Name any
Where are they located?
How do the rules compare to Saint-Émilion AOC
Montagne Saint-Émilion AOC, Lussac-Saint-Émilion AOC (named in book) are 2 largest
Saint-Georges-Saint-Émilion AOC, Puisseguin-Saint-Émilion AOC (CSW)
Further away from the Dordogne than Saint-Émilion AOC
Same rules: 53 hL/ha, min 6mo maturation
104
Describe Pomerol AOC
location and relative size
Style(s)
Grape(s)
Yields
Classification(s)
Small but very prestigious appellation
NW but adjacent to Saint-Emilion AOC
Red wines only
Merlot dominant (80%) followed by Cab Franc
Max yield 49 hL/ha
No classification system but many top estates
105
Describe the style profile of Pomerol AOC wines
Similar to top wines of Saint-Émilion, that is…
Pronounced red and black plum fruit with noticeable vanilla and clove new oak character
Full body
High alcohol
M+ to High acidity
M+ to High Tannins
Able to age many years in bottle
106
Comment on the size of the estates in Pomerol compared to First Growth Estates of the Left Bank
Example of Petrus, with less than 12 ha, compared to Left Bank First Growths with 80-100 ha each
Pomerol estates therefore command some of the highest prices in the world per bottle
107
What is Lalande-de-Pomerol AOC?
a larger satellite appellation that allows slightly higher yields than in Pomerol AOC
108
Describe Côtes de Bordeaux
What are they?
Rules
An appellation for red and white wine
Created in 2009 for a group of appellations on the Right Bank
A # of communes can append their name before the AOC name
Examples: Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux, Cadillac, Castillon, and Francs
Max yield 55 hL/ha, and 52 hL/ha if a commune name is appended
109
Describe Côtes de Bourg AOC
Similar to Côtes de Bordeaux that is not under the same umbrella
Merlot dominant
Wines similar in style and price to Médoc AOC
Noteworthy for 10% of ha planted to Malbec, highest % of any Bordeaux appellation
110
Describe Sauternes AOC and Barsac AOC
Location
Style
Yields
Both in S part of Graves
Both are for sweet, typically botrytis-affected wines
Typically made from Sémillon (80% of plantings), Sauv Blanc, and tiny amounts of Muscadelle
Both have conditions to produce “noble rot”
Max yields limited to just 25 hL/ha, but in reality much lower yields req’d to ensure grapes are fully ripened before noble rot develops (below 10 hL/ha common)
111
Describe the conditions that are favorable to “noble rot” in Sauternes and Barsac
The meeting of the cold Ciron River with the warmer Garonne River, which promotes morning mists
The mists are then burnt off by middle of the day, with afternoon sunshine drying the grapes to avoid development of grey rot
112
What % of sweet wine production is accounted for by Sauternes AOC
50% of production
Note: wines of Barsac may be labeled as either Barsac AOC or Sauternes AOC
113
Describe the profile of Sauternes AOC and Barsac AOC
Pronounced aromas of citrus peel, honey, tropical fruit (mango), with vanilla oak notes
Full body
High alcohol
M to M+ acidity
Sweet finish
VG to outstanding, mid-priced to super-premium
114
What is the current trend for Sauternes wines?
What has been the response
For the past 30 years, the area has been in crisis due to lack of demand
In response, many properties have started producing dry wines as an important source of income
115
Beyond Sauternes and Barsac, what are the other sweet wine appellations in Bordeaux?
Botrytis or late-harvest?
Quality and price
Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC,
Loupiac AOC (max 40 hL/ha),
Premières Côtes de Bordeaux AOC (max 45 hL/ha)
May be botrytis affected or simply late harvest
G to VG quality; inexpensive to mid-priced
116
What is the basis of the classification of 1855?
What is another name for the classification?
What are the levels?
The classification of 1855 of grand cru classé is often referred to as “cru classé”
Based on prices that were being achieved in 1855 for the wines of the Médoc (plus Ch. Haut-Brian in the Graves), and Sauternes
Médoc wines were ranked into 1st to 5th growths
Sauternes wines were ranked into 1st and 2nd growths
Chateau d’Yquem was awarded a special category of its own, Premier Cru Supérieur
117
How much of the wine of the Médoc is considered “cru classé” and what does that indicate?
How many properties?
Cru classé refers to the classification of 1855
Represent about 1/4 of the wine produced in the Médoc
60 chateaux from the Médoc, 1 from the Graves
118
What are the terms for the levels of cru classé wines?
Where are cru classé typically bottled?
Cru classé refers to chateau classified as premiers cru through cinquièmes cru
Classed growths must be bottled at the estate
119
What are the First Growth (Premier Cur Classé) Château?
Where is each located?
Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac
Château Latour, Pauillac
Château Margaux, Margaux
Château Haut-Brion, Pessac, Graves
Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac (promoted in 1973)
120
Describe the Graves classification?
Established in 1959 based on pricing, fame and quality as judged by tasting
16 classified château, for their red, white, or both
All are located w/in the sub-region of Pessac Léognan
A simple list with no sub-divisions
121
Describe the Saint-Émilion classification
Only applies to some wines w/in the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC
Dates back to 1955, and has been revised at approx. 10-yr intervals ever since
Château judged on their terroir, methods of production, reputation, and commercial considerations, and a blind tasting of at least 10 vintages
Includes 3 tiers: Premier Grand Cru A, Premier Grand Cru B, and Grand Cru Classé
The most recent revision of 2012 still stands, though a process of review started in 2022
122
What is the Crus Bourgeois du Médoc classification?
Created 1932
A level below Cru Classé, but still of superior quality
Revised in 2010 with the Crue Bourgeois label awarded annually to individual WINES rather than to château
Based on an assessment of both production methods and the finished product
Any Médoc property may apply
From 2018 on, château will be classified as 1 of 3 tiers: Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur, and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel
123
What top-quality Bordeaux appellation dos not have any classification system?
Pomerol, though some estates have the highest reputation, e.g. Petrus
124
How have some of the Bordeaux classifications proven to be controversial?
the Saint-Émilion classification has been challenged and lawsuits have dented its reputation and value
The use of the term “Grand Cru” in the name of the Saint-Émilion appellation is regarded by many as misleading
The Graves classification is due for revision w/ too many high quality estates note included in current list, but it may not happen due to fears of repeating the disputes that have discredited the Saint-Émilion classification
125
What is the general meaning of “chateau” in Bordeaux?
Most of the 7,000 estates in Bordeaux are called this, even though it can be a palatial country mansion or a dilapidated farmhouse
126
Are the # of estates in Bordeaux increasing or decreasing?
What about the size of estates?
Why?
The # of estates is decreasing, as very small properties are being taken over by larger neighbors
This helps to create volumes of wine that are more commercially viable
The size of estate has been rising and is now over 19ha
127
What is the approximate annual production of Bordeaux?
800MM bottles
128
Are co-ops important in Bordeaux?
What % of production from what % of growers?
Co-ops continue to play an important role
In 2018 were responsible for 1/4 of production from 40% of grape growers
129
How do the production costs for Bordeaux AOC, a Médoc estate, and a classed growth differ in Bordeaux?
What are the main contributors to these cost differences?
Per bottle, a classed growth has costs nearly 30x that of Bordeaux AOC, and nearly 7x that of Médoc (2017 estimates)
Bordeaux AOC €0.57,
Médoc estate €2.35
Classed growth €16
These don’t include interest on bank loans or land costs, which would increase these costs significantly
The main contributors to additional costs are increased vine density, harvest costs, hugely higher viticultural costs, lower yield, rigorous grape selection and barrel aging (both the cost of a higher proportion of new barrels and extended time in barrel)
130
While the classifications have been an important way to sell wines, what has contributed more recently?
The 100 point system associated w/ Robert Parker and adopted by many top critics has become a vital tool
While it was initially more in the US, it has expanded around the world
131
What is the value of Bordeaux wine sales as of 2018?
What is the balance of domestic vs export?
Where is most of the domestic sold? At what avg €?
Bordeaux value ~€4B
Split more or less evenly between FR and export
56% by volume was sold w/in FR, with 48% of that being sold in supermarkets (2018, avg price €5.80)
132
Exports account for _____% of Bordeaux wine by volume and _____% by value
44% of Bordeaux wine by volume
52% by value
133
What are the top export markets for Bordeaux?
- Hong Kong, China, USA, UK
134
What is “la place de Bordeaux”?
A unique commercial system in Bordeaux
Few producers sell wine directly
Rather, wine is sold to a merchant (négociant, collectively known as la négoce) that sells approximately 70% of wine, who in turn sells it on to wholesalers and retailers
In addition, the relationship between the producers (estates, co-ops, and large winery businesses) and the merchants is handled by a broker, known as a “courtier”
Each charges a percentage for their services
135
% breakdown
Bordeaux
Médoc and Graves
Côtes de Bordeaux
St-Émilion, Pomerol, Fronsac
Dry whites
Rosé
Sweet whites and Crémant
Bordeaux 44%
Médoc and Graves 18%
Côtes de Bordeaux 12%
St-Émilion, Pomerol, Fronsac 11%
Dry whites 9%
Rosé 4%
Sweet whites and Crémant 1% each
136
Describe the flow of Bordeaux wines from grape to final customer
Either grape grower sells grapes to co-op or large winery OR wine is estate grown and vinified
Wine goes to “la place”
First to Broker/Courtier (taking 2%)
Then to Merchant/Négociant (15% commission)
Négociant sells to wholesaler, supermarket, agent, importer, etc
Then wine is sold to retailer
Retailer sells to final customer
137
Why might a Bordeaux producer sell to multiple negotiants?
How many could that be ?
In order to ensure that wines get to the more than 170 countries where Bordeaux is distributed, a chateau will often sell to as many as 40 négociants
The # of cases will be determined by an allocation system, with each négociant allotted a % of production every vintage
138
Describe the 2 contrasting markets that exist in Bordeaux and what
The great majority of wine (Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur) which is inexpensive
It has struggled to raise its price much above €1/L for wine in bulk due to lower demand in FR and huge competition from other countries (Chile, AUS)
By contrast, classed growths and other high-quality wines are sold mainly by the “en primeur” system, as futures (1yr to 18 mo before bottling)
139
When did “en primeur” start? Why?
When did it begin to to catch the attention of consumers?
Contemporary system dates to the period after WWII when chateaux were struggling financially
It wasn’t until the late 1970s that consumers began to take an interest in Bordeaux en primeur sales
It was the great vintage off 1982 that really caught consumer imagination
140
When does the en primeur campaign begin?
What happens?
Begins in April following the vintage
Barrel samples are provided by estates to be tasted by wine buyers & journalists
~5-6,000 wine professionals taste and assess wines that are still in barrel
The chateaux then release their prices throughout May and June
After tasting, the châteaux — usually through their négociants — put up for sale a small amount of wine (the first tranche),
the price of which will be heavily influenced by the individual cháteau’s reputation and the expert reviews
141
What is the “first tranche”?
The small amount of wine that is initially put up for sale as part of en primeur
It is intended to gauge what the market is prepared to pay for the wine
Depending on how it sells, the price will be adjusted for subsequent tranches
Usually the price goes up for each tranche
142
Why might a négociant buy wines in less good vintages?
When wines are in demand, the rarest and most sought-after wines will be on allocation
Therefore, the négociants and trade buyers may have to buy wines in less good vintage if they want to maintain their allocation of wines in top vintages
143
What are the pros & cons for négociants in buying less good vintages?
Pro: helps them maintain allocation for better vintages
Con: wines remain on the books for a # of years before they are sold
144
What does the en primeur price include? What doesn’t it include?
En primeur price includes the bottled wine being delivered to the storage of the retailer a year later
The price is “ex cellar” — ie it excludes any taxes that will be due in the final buyer’s home market
145
How has en primeur performed in more recent history?
Since 2010 there has been continuing debate about whether the system still works
In the boom period of 2000s, increased interest from China helped prices rise considerably
Chateaux became accustomed to offering their wines at ever-higher prices, even in relatively poor vintages (2011)
This has resulted in falling prices and investors losing $
Critics have expressed concern that wines they taste aren’t final wines yet have large influence on price
146
How are châteaux adjusting to the changing en primeur market?
in 2012, Ch Latour announced that it would no longer sell wines in en primeur
Several châteaux have reduced the volume of wine they sell en primeur
The most prestigious châteaux can afford to keep their wine and only sell it when bottled, whereas smaller or less prestigious châteaux cannot and need the money en primeur sales generate
147
What are the pros & cons for the estates of en primeur?
Pros
Ability to test the market by releasing early lower-priced tranches
Early payment and ROI, allowing the estates to finance the next vintage
Cons
Potentially selling at a lower price than might otherwise be obtained
Potential for financial mismanagement or losses by négociants (that could put them out of biz) that could adversely affect an estates reputation
148
What are the pros & cons for the consumers of en primeur?
Pros
Ability to secure sought-after wines at theoretically lower price
Option to keep or trade sought-after wines
Cons
Wines are bought on the basis of the opinions of trade buyers and journalists tasting unfinished barrel samples that may not truly reflect the final wine
Intermediaries (négociants, shippers) may go out of biz before the wine arrives
Prices may fall before the wine arrives due to Econ conditions or the quality of following vintages
149
What role does wine tourism play in Bordeaux?
historically, wine tourism has not been a major feature of the way that Bordeaux has promoted itself
However, the city of Bordeaux has become an important tourist destination that now includes La Cité du Vin, Bordeaux’s visitor center
