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Cosmetology > Chapter 20 > Flashcards

Chapter 20 Flashcards

1
Q

Waves that process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves are considered to be ____ ______

A

Acid balanced

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2
Q

Hair textures describes the ____ of a single strand of hair

A

Diameter

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3
Q

Keratin proteins are made of long chains of _____ linked together end to end like beads

A

Amino acids

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4
Q

A method of wrapping a permanent wave that is suitable for very long hair is the _____ ______ technique

A

Double tool

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5
Q

If hair breaks under very slight strain, it has little to no _____

A

Elasticity

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6
Q

The action of waving lotion is to _____ the hair

A

Expand

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7
Q

The degree to which hair absorbs the waving lotion is related to its

A

Porosity

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8
Q

The main active ingredient acid-balanced waving lotion

A

Glycerol monoglycolate

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9
Q

The main active ingredient of reducing agent in alkaline perms is

A

Ammonia thiogycolate

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10
Q

What type of hair is fragile, easier to process, and more susceptible to damage from perm services

A

Fine

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11
Q

____ rods have a small diameter in the center area and gradually increase to their largest diameter

A

Concave

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12
Q

Straight rods are equal in

A

Diameter

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13
Q

When hair has assumed the desired shape, the broken disulfide bonds must be ____ rebounded

A

Chemically

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14
Q

The chemical action of the ____ breaks the disulfide bonds and softens the hair

A

Waving solution

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15
Q

Bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent polypeptide chains are joined together are

A

Disulfide

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16
Q

A perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hold dryer is known as

A

Endothermic

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17
Q

Polypeptide chains are long chains of amino acids joined together by

A

Peptide bonds

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18
Q

The perm that is activated by heat created chemically within the product is known as

A

Exothermic

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19
Q

When the strand of hair is wrapped at an angle 90 degrees to its base section, it will result in

A

Half-base

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20
Q

When the strand of hair is wrapped at an angle of 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section, it will result in

A

On base

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21
Q

The ____ wrap uses zigzag partings to divide base areas

A

Weave

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22
Q

The ____ wrap creates a movement that curves within sectioned out panels

A

Curvature

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23
Q

The basic perm wrap is also called a _____ wrap

A

Straight set

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24
Q

Base control refers to the position of the tool in relation to its ____ and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped

A

Base section

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25
Q

All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into panels which are further divided into subsections called ____

A

Base sections

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26
Q

What type of hair requires more processing than medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant to processing

A

Coarse

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27
Q

The length of time required for the hair strands to absorb the waving lotion and for the hair to re-curl is called

A

Processing time

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28
Q

In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first ____ minutes

A

5-10

29
Q

Under processing is caused by ______ processing time of the waving lotion

A

Insufficient

30
Q

If too many ____ bones are broken in the perming process, the hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl

A

Disulfide

31
Q

What can be used to determine the actual processing time needed to achieve optimum curl results when giving a perm for the first time on a client

A

Test curl

32
Q

When one end paper is folded over the hair ends like an envelope, it is called the

A

Bookend wrap

33
Q

When you place one end wrap on top of the hair strand and hold it flat, it is called the

A

Single flat wrap

34
Q

End wraps are absorbent papers used to ____ of the hair when you wrapping and winding hair on the perm tools

A

Control ends

35
Q

The process of permanently rearranging the basic structure of overly curly hair into a straight form is called

A

Chemical hair relaxing

36
Q

Of the general types of hair relaxers which one does not require pre-shampooing

A

Sodium hydroxide

37
Q

The chemical requires to stop the action of the chemical relaxer is

A

Neutralizer

38
Q

The processing time of a chemical relaxer is affected by

A

Hair porosity

39
Q

What stops the action of any chemical relaxer that may remain in the hair after rinsing

A

Neutralizer

40
Q

Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called

A

Lye

41
Q

What are the three basic steps used in chemical hair relaxing

A

Processing, neutralizing, conditioning

42
Q

The strength of a relaxer is determined by the strand test general guidelines suggest that for fine hair, the following strength is used

A

Mild

43
Q

The strength of a relaxer is determined by the strand test. General guidelines suggest that for coarse hair, the following strength is used

A

Super

44
Q

Before giving a relaxing treatment to overly curly hair, the cosmetologist must judge its texture, porosity and

A

Elasticity

45
Q

The action of sodium hydroxide relaxer causes the hair to

A

Soften and swell

46
Q

The process of breaking the hairs disulfide bonds during processing and converting them into ianthionizarion bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair is known as

A

Ianthionization

47
Q

The scalp and skin are protected from possible burns when using a hair relaxer by applying a

A

Base cream

48
Q

After the hair has been processed with a sodium hydroxide relaxer and before the shampoo, the hair should be thoroughly

A

Rinsed

49
Q

The relaxer cream is applied near the scalp last because processing is accelerating In this area by _____

A

Body heat

50
Q

If using a no base relaxer, it is recommended that protective cream be applied to

A

Hairline and around ears

51
Q

The best type of shampoo to use after the chemical relaxer is

A

Neutralize shampoo

52
Q

When applying sodium hydroxide relaxer, the processing cream is applied last to the

A

Scalp and ends

53
Q

When using the comb method of application, how is the relaxing cream applied

A

Back of the comb

54
Q

Inspecting the action of the relaxer by stretching the strands to see how fast the natural curl are being removed is called

A

Strand testing

55
Q

When hair has been sufficiently straightened, the hair is rinsed rapidly and thoroughly with _____ water

A

Warm

56
Q

The most commonly used methods of hair relaxing are the sodium hydroxide method and the ______ method

A

Thio

57
Q

When performing a sodium hydroxide retouch, where is the product applied first

A

New growth only

58
Q

Hair relaxing treatment should be avoided when when an examination shows the presence of

A

Scalp abrasion

59
Q

To check relaxer processing, smooth and press a strand to the scalp using the back of the comb or your finger. If curl returns, _____

A

Continue processing

60
Q

The combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped in large tools is called a _____

A

Soft curl perm

61
Q

What is the safety precaution that must be followed with all chemical hair relaxing services

A

Wear gloves

62
Q

One safety precaution for hair relaxing is to avoid _____ the scalp with the comb or fingers

A

Scratching

63
Q

After saturating the rods with neutralizer in a soft curl permanent and processing according to directions, the next step is to

A

Remove rods carefully

64
Q

Relaxers that are ionic compounds formed by a metal combined with oxygen and hydrogen are known as

A

Metal hydroxide relaxer

65
Q

Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called

A

Lye relaxer

66
Q

When processing is complete for a soft curl permanent, what is done after finding the hair thoroughly with warm water

A

Blot each curl with a towel

67
Q

What is used to restore the hair and scalp to their normal acidic pH

A

Normalizing lotion

68
Q

What are the five things to discuss

A 
Price 
Previous chemical service?
Did you like it? Why?
Type of curl result expected? 
Maintenance 
Taking any medications?
69
Q

(TAPEDG) what does this stand for

A 
T-exture 
A-brasions
P-orosity 
E-lasticity
D-ensity
G-rowth pattern

Cosmetology (7 decks)

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