Chapter 7 Flashcards
(44 cards)
Define Coast
transition zone between land and ocean
Define coastline
Farthest inland extent of storm waves
Define Shore
land between low tide line and coastline
Define shoreline
actual edge of water-changes daily with tides and storms
Define intertidal zone
part of the shore between low tide and high tide
Define backshore
only covered with water during the highest spring tides
Define foreshore
between high and low tide
Define nearshore
between low tide and breaker line-waves interact with the seafloor here-longshore bars and troughs are found here.
What is a longshorebar? In which season are they large?
Shallow sea floor that makes waves break on them because they are shallow.
Summer beaches
•Sand moves onshore•Wide and sandy berm•Smaller or no longshorebar•More deposition than erosion•Smaller and more gentle waves
Winter beaches
•Sand moves offshore•Large longshorebar•Rocky beach•More erosion than deposition•Larger waves
What is wave refraction?
–Waves bend upon entering shallow water–Result of friction–Bend towards shoreline–See Figure to the left•The white lines represent the crest of waves
Describe swash
the breaking wave runs up onto the beach
Describe backwash
the wave flows straight back to the ocean
What is a longshore current?
•Waves (swash) strike the beach at an angle•Backwash leaves beach •Together the swash and backwash make a zigzag path down the beach
What is a long shore drift?
is water or sand or anything drifting because the waves crash at an angle to the shore line.
What is causing the longshore current and longshoredrift to form?
waves coming in at an angle
What is the purpose of a breakwater
Protector harbors from waves
Purpose of Jetties?
Protect mouth of harbor or stream from closing off due to longshoredrift
Purpose of a groin?
Purpose is to widen beach
Purpose of a seawall?
Protect beaches, roads, buildings form waves
How does a rip current form? What should you do if you are caught in one?
Form when there is a break in a longshorebar•Water flows away from the coast in the break
What is a wetland?
Coastal area submerged at least part of the time-usually during high tide
Why are wetlands important?
•Filter pollution out of seawater•Trap sediment and build up land•Nurseries and habitat for coastal marine life•Support salt tolerant grasses and plants •Protects coastal areas from storm wavesChapter