Coasts Flashcards

(39 cards)

1
Q

What are the 4 coastal erosion processes?

A
CASH/HAAS
Corrosion/Abrasion
Attrition
Solution
Hydraulic action
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2
Q

What is Corrosion/Abrasion?

A

● Sediments carried by waves HURLED AGAINST coastal cliff
● Loosened sediments KNOCK and SCRAPE coastal cliff,
weakening the surface and erodes the coast

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3
Q

What is Attrition? (Not that impt)

A

● Rock particles carried by waves HIT AGAINST EACH OTHER,
breaking into smaller pieces and becoming smoother and
more rounded.

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4
Q

What is Solution?

A

● Sea water reacts CHEMICALLY and dissolves water-soluble minerals in coastal rocks
(i.e. carbonic acid in seawater erodes limestone easily)
● Rocks are WEAKENED and DISINTEGRATES

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5
Q

What is Hydraulic action?

A

●Waves trap air in rock joints when they strike rock surface
● AIR is repeatedly COMPRESSED by oncoming waves, exerting
pressure of the joints
● Joints WEAKEN and rocks SHATTER

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6
Q

What are constructive waves?

A

Constructive waves (Deposition)
➢ Lower energy waves
➢ Low wave height, Long wave length
➢ Gently spills over when breaking
➢ Stronger swash (more deposition - fine grain), weaker backwash (less erosion)
➢ Gentler beach gradient, on sheltered coast
➢ Wave frequency: 6-8 waves/min

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7
Q

What are destructive waves?

A
Destructive waves (Erosion)
➢ Higher energy waves
➢ High wave height, Short wave length
➢ Plunges over when breaking
➢ Weaker swash (less deposition - larger coarse pebbles left), stronger backwash (more erosion of finer sediments)
➢ Steeper beach gradient, on open coast
➢ Wave frequency: 10-14 waves/min
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8
Q

Describe wave refraction

A
  • Process by which waves change direction when they approach the coast
  • Occurs as waves slow down due to decreasing depth of sea bed as they reach the shore, causing uneven shorelines
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9
Q

Describe headlands

A
  • Caused by destructive waves, (Steep vertical descent)
  • Waves converge towards headland
  • Results in waves with greater erosive energy and wave height
  • MORE EROSION occurs at headland where energy is concentrated
  • Waves slow down due to greater friction with the decreasing depth of sea bed, causing waves to break onto headland
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10
Q

Describe bays

A
  • Caused by constructive waves (Wide indented coast)
  • Waves diverge when they reach bays
  • Results in decreased erosive energy
  • MORE DEPOSITION occurs when wave energy is SPREAD OUT
  • Waves that reach shallow water first slows down, while other parts of wave continue at the same speed
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11
Q

Describe sediment transport

A
  • As waves approach straight coast at an angle, longshore current is also generated in the nearshore zone, moving sediments towards the shore
  • LONGSHORE CURRENT (Ocean current that is parallel to coast)
  • Due to gravity and friction however, the backwash moves sediments perpendicular to the beach, back to sea
  • BEACH DRIFT (zig-zag movement of sediments along the beach)

Longshore current + beach drift =Longshore drift (Combined effect, most rapid when waves approach at 30°)

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12
Q

Describe sediment deposition

A
  • Wave energy decreases, they are unable to carry sediments.
  • LARGE sediments are deposited FIRST, then finer ones
  • VARYING sizes of deposited sediments result in variety of beaches
  • SHELTERED COAST (eg. mangroves area/bays Finer sediments)
  • EXPOSED COAST (eg. headlands Coarser sediments, Destructive waves/strong backwash transports finer sediments away)
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13
Q

Describe formation of cliffs (rock face with steep vertical descent)

A
  1. Hydraulic actions erodes joint of rock surface, enlarging joint to form a notch
  2. Notch further erodes and deepens to form a bigger hollow space called a cave
  3. Further erosion causes roof of cave to collapse and form a steep cliff
  4. As erosion continues, overhanging cliff collapses and materials are deposited at the base of the cliff.
  5. More abrasion occurs and erodes cliff more
  6. Cliff will retreat inland overtime and shore platform forms
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14
Q

Describe formation of shore platform

A
  • Gently sloping platform at base of cliff, covered by coarse rock debris
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15
Q

Describe formation of headland and bay

A

More resistant rocks erode slower, forming headland

Less resistant rocks erode quicker, forming bay

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16
Q

Describe formation of 1. Caves 2. Arches 3. Stacks

A

Caves

  • Waves erode base of headland at the joints and undercuts it
  • Continuous action of waves form a cave

Arches
- Caves develop on both sides of headland as waves erode the rock, and eventually join caves together, forming an arch

Stacks
- Roof of arch collapses to form a stack (pillar of rock in the sea left behind)

17
Q

How are spits + tombolos formed

A

SPIT

  • Long narrow ridge of sand, 1 attached to mainland, other at sea
  • Where there is an abrupt end in coastline, Longshore drift continues to transport sediments & accumulates above water surface. forming ridge
  • Hook/curved end may develop at one end due to wave refraction
  • May form into a Tombolo

TOMBOLO

  • Long narrow ridge of sand between 2 pieces of land
  • Formed when spit grows & joins mainland to island or island to another
  • Due to longshore drift & sediment accumulation
18
Q

Longshore current,
Beach drift
Longshore drift

A

Longshore current: Ocean currents flowing parallel to coast
Beach drift: Zig-zag movement of sediments along the beach
Longshore drift: Combined effect of longshore current & beach drift

19
Q

What are the 3 uses of coastal areas + examples?

A
  1. Fisheries & aquaculture (Ca Mau, Vietnam)
  2. Housing & transportation (Kukup, Malaysia, stilt houses)
  3. Tourism & recreation (Sentosa, SG)
20
Q

What are the coastal area uses in fisheries & aquaculture

A
  • Produces 1/3 world’s fish supply
    FISHERIES: Fish bred & raised to meet growing demand
    AQUACULTURE: Farming fish in cages & ponds close to coasts, rivers, converted wetlands
  • In China, India, Vietnam, Indonesia, Thailand

[Ca Mau, Viet]

  • Nation’s shrimp production centre
  • More than 60k hectares mangroves cleared for building materials in 1980s + shrimp farming
  • Ponds constructed from mud & concrete to hold water for shrimps

+ve 2010, production of shrimp accelerated to record high 800 mil USD, contributed to income of country + people

-ve Clearing of mangroves that stabilise sand ->coasts now vulnerable to erosion from storms -> + Pond waste -> environmental pollution

21
Q

What are the coastal area uses in housing & transportation?

A
  • Many people live near coasts,
  • Stilt houses, stilts above water connected by walkways, allowing people to move within community
  • Boats as from of transport for fishing & ferry services

[Kukup, Malaysia]

  • Stilt house communities
  • Floating fish farms for fish breeding
  • Attractive tourist spot, contributing income to economy via tourism
22
Q

What are the coastal area uses of tourism & recreation?

A

Coastal areas transformed into tourist & recreational areas

[Sentosa, Singapore, ONE°15 Marina Club]
- World class marina facilities, boat, yacht maintenance & recreation 

[Resorts World Sentosa]

  • Maximised waterfront by building museums, hotels, marine life park on coast
  • Further developments like boardwalk connecting mainland to meet growing demand

+ve Sentosa had 19 mil visitors in 2011, 600% increase from 2003
Income generated drives SG economy

23
Q

What are the distribution of coral reefs?

A
  • Found in tropics, between Tropic of Cancer 23.5°N & Tropic of Capricorn 23.5 °S
  • Philippines & Malaysia (SEA) Great Barrier Reef, (Queensland Northern AUS)
    Cuba & Jamaica (Caribbean) Madagascar & Tanzania (East AFR)
  • Follow map in qns
24
Q

What are the conditions for coral growth?

A

SEA SURFACE TEMP
- Warm ocean 17-18°C

SUNLIGHT

  • Clear, saline water 10-60m
  • Low turbidity
  • Allows enough sunlight to penetrate water for algae to photosynthesise

SALINITY

  • 34-37 parts per thousand
  • Moderate water movement ensures sufficient oxygen

(Sediments suffocate coral reefs, Climate change causes coral bleaching)

25
What are 5 pressures that threaten coral reefs?
OVERCOLLECTION OF CORALS (Philippines) - For personal & commercial use - Weakens corals & disrupts coral ecosystem, making them vulnerable to threats in FISHING METHODS (Philippines, Indonesia) Dynamite/cyanide fishing: - Stuns fish, destroys reef habitat Spearfishing: (Belize, Bonaire, Netherlands) - Selective depletion of certain fish pop. disrupting food chains - Spearfishing of parrotfish feeds on algae, affects coral growth RECREATIONAL USES Expansion of coastal resorts (Sri Lanka) - Sewage discharge in seawater, oil spills, stressing corals Anchoring boats damaging corals COASTAL DEVELOPMENTS Land reclamation (Japan, SG) - Rocks & sediment dumped into reefs, suffocating coral reefs Expansion of resorts & urban housing (Florida) - Increased waste discharge into sea, suffocating corals ``` CLIMATE CHANGE Rapid changes to sea temp & levels - Changes too rapid, corals cannot adapt Coral bleaching, (turns white) - Corals expel the algae, loss of algae causes it to bleach due to warmer temp ```
26
What are the conditions for mangrove growth?
- Sediments provide nutrients essential for growth - Thrive on sheltered coasts, river estuaries, muddy, waterlogged land - Allow mud & plant litter to accumulate due to low energy waves - Low-lying areas, subjected to strong effects of tides & sediment changes
27
What are the species and adaptations of mangroves? | ASAP, RP(G) , BK (T)
AVICENNIA & SONNERATIA ● Pencil-like shaped aerial roots, which takes in oxygen directly from air when they are not submerged, to cope with waterlogged coast RHIZOPHORA ● Prop roots anchor plant firmly into ground to avoid being uprooted by strong waves BRUGUIERA ● Kneed roots trap soil in between them, providing themselves with more nutrients for growth ● Fruits are BUOYANT, float away to germinate, also JAVELIN-SHAPED, to pierce mud to grow ● Salt-tolerant, excrete excess salt on underside of leaves
28
What are the values of mangrove areas?
HABITAT FOR MARINE ANIMALS - Habitat & breeding ground for marine animals, (Oysters, barnacles anchor on mangrove roots) - Food for marine animals (Shrimps, crustaceans forage for food in sediments trapped between kneed roots) STABILISE SHORELINES - Dense network of mangrove roots, (Allows build up of sediments, protecting coasts from erosion by tides, tsunamis, storms) PROTECTING COASTS FROM STORMS (same as previous) - Mangrove roots absorb wave energy, -> slows flow of water due to friction, protects coasts from erosion
29
What are the 4 pressures threatening mangroves?
COASTAL DEVELOPMENTS - Land reclamation for housing, industry, recreation (Caribbean) - Mangroves cleared from environment, water pollution RISING SEA LEVELS - Climate change accelerates rising sea lvls & severity of storms (Gulf of Thailand) - Mangroves cannot grow further inland despite sea level, due to rising competition with human activities CONVERSION TO OTHER LAND USES - Flat, well watered mangrove areas cleared for paddy fields & shrimp farms (Thailand, Vietnam) - Coasts now vulnerable to erosion CLEARING OF MANGROVES FOR RESOURCES (lower income/tech economy) - Cleared for fuel wood, charcoal (Indonesia) - Reduces fish breeding grounds, coasts vulnerable to storms & erosion
30
What are 3 laws & regulations managing coastal areas?
1. LIMIT DAMAGING ACTIVITIES (Port Philip, Australia) - Damaging activities, eg. blasting coral reefs/clearing mangroves for fish farms/dumping waste - x Banning is costly & ineffective, dine through aligning demands of people with nature of coastal environment - Sand dunes fenced off, access path to beach built [Port Philip] Sand dunes were trampled on, left exposed to wind erosion & destroyed Houses behind dunes vulnerable to partly buried by sand +ve Allows coastal environment to recover -ve Fences make beach unattractive, blocks access to parts of beach 2. PROTECTING COASTAL RESOURCES (Goat Island Marine Reserve, New Zealand) - Prevents resources being depleted or exploited - Fish are protected (vulnerable to overfishing + dynamite fishing) [Goat Island Marine Park] Zones marked off to prevent commercial fishing, enforced by local management +ve Tourist spot, Allows fish to breed & thrive -ve Establishments strongly opposed by fishermen denied their source of food & livelihood/resources 3. RESTRICT DEVELOPMENTS IN AREAS PRONE TO NATURAL DISASTERS - Relocate structures from vulnerable areas - Restrict developments in vulnerable areas - Coastal defences are closely monitored +ve People still live in coastal areas due to natural resources/food/materials Provides many services, docks/ports/housing/recreation -ve People spend more on construction & maintenance Have to be prepared for emergencies & evacuations
31
What are the 3 soft engineering coastal defences & examples?
Beach nourishment (Cape May Point, USA, New Jersey) Planting vegetation & stabilising dunes (Triton Place, West Australia) Encouraging growth of coral reefs (Maldives) Large steel rods supplied w low voltage solar power, facilitates coral growth, sustains large variety of coral & marine animals
32
Describe the 3 soft engineering coastal defences
1. BEACH NOURISHMENT (Cape May Point, NJ) - Sand from external source to replenish eroded beaches +ve: Forms a wide sandy beach + slows erosion -ve: Costly, time consuming, suffocates corals 2. PLANTING VEGETATION/ STABILISING DUNES - Sand dunes stabilised by planting grass (Triton Place, West Australia) - Mangroves planted, stabilise coastline, absorb wave energy Dense mangrove roots trap sediments & holds soil tgt +ve Roots of plants anchor sand, less erosion Dense mangrove roots protect coasts from erosion -ve Takes years to grow, trampling & vandalism Costly to build fences & paths to prevent trampling 3. ENCOURAGE GROWTH OF CORAL REEFS (Maldives) - Artificial reefs created by placing LONG LASTING STEEL & CONCRETE allow coral & marine creatures to colonise these materials functioning as natural reefs +ve Corals weaken wave energy, less erosion, breeding ground for fish [Maldives] Large steel rods supplied w low voltage solar power, facilitates coral growth, sustains large variety of coral & marine animals -ve: Encouraging coral reefs not easy, sites have to be surveyed for proper growth Takes very long, 20-30 years, coast vulnerable to erosion
33
What are the 5 hard engineering coastal defences & examples?
Seawalls +ve: Isle of Wight, UK -ve: Drake's Island, England Gabions +ve: (Andaman Coast, Thailand) Tetrapods (Hokkaido, Japan) Breakwaters +ve: (ECP, SG) -ve: (Portland Harbour, England) Groynes -ve: Sandy Hook, NJ
34
Describe & weigh effects of sea walls
Concrete walls, parallel to coasts +ve: (Isle of Wight, UK) Absorb wave energy, reflect incoming waves, less coastal erosion -ve: (Drake's Island, England) Costly & requires constant repair Initial success, walls still erode at base & eventually collapse
35
Describe & weigh effects of gabions
Wire cages of rocks along coast +ve: (Andaman Coast Thailand) Weaken wave energy, less coastal erosion, allow water to filter thru, no strong backwash -ve: (ECP) Unsightly, easily corroded & costly to maintain, vulnerable to vandalism
36
Describe & weigh effects of tetrapods
- Four pronged concrete structures placed in interlocking pattern along coast +ve: (Hokkaido, Japan) Weaken wave energy, allow water to filter thru, no powerful backwash, less erosion They are precasted, hence quick building & implementation -ve: Costly, Unsightly, Dangerous, Alter ocean currents & disrupts natural cycles of erosion & deposition
37
Describe & weigh benefits of breakwaters
- PARALLEL to coasts or one end attached to coast +ve: (Almeria, Spain) Break force of oncoming waves Creates zone of calm water for deposition of sediments behind to form beaches/sheltered coasts -ve: (Portland Harbour, England) Costly & unsightly Uneven protection, areas away from breakwater still eroded [Erosion & flooding problems, affecting properties, beaches, communication infrastructure, Portland Habour]
38
Describe & weigh effects of groynes
- Low walls perpendicular to shore +ve: Retain sediments on updrift side, transported by longshore drift Absorb energy of waves, less erosion Sustain & extend beaches -ve: (Sandy Hook, NJ) - Costly to maintain, unsightly - Coast of downdrift side not protected, no new deposition of sediments Longshore drift erodes unprotected side of beach
39
What are the laws and regulations to manage coastal areas?
Limit damaging activities (Port Phillips, Aus) Protect coastal resources (Goat island marine reserve, NZ) Restrict development in prone to natural hazard areas (USA FEMA)