Coasts Flashcards
(39 cards)
What are the 4 coastal erosion processes?
CASH/HAAS Corrosion/Abrasion Attrition Solution Hydraulic action
What is Corrosion/Abrasion?
● Sediments carried by waves HURLED AGAINST coastal cliff
● Loosened sediments KNOCK and SCRAPE coastal cliff,
weakening the surface and erodes the coast
What is Attrition? (Not that impt)
● Rock particles carried by waves HIT AGAINST EACH OTHER,
breaking into smaller pieces and becoming smoother and
more rounded.
What is Solution?
● Sea water reacts CHEMICALLY and dissolves water-soluble minerals in coastal rocks
(i.e. carbonic acid in seawater erodes limestone easily)
● Rocks are WEAKENED and DISINTEGRATES
What is Hydraulic action?
●Waves trap air in rock joints when they strike rock surface
● AIR is repeatedly COMPRESSED by oncoming waves, exerting
pressure of the joints
● Joints WEAKEN and rocks SHATTER
What are constructive waves?
Constructive waves (Deposition)
➢ Lower energy waves
➢ Low wave height, Long wave length
➢ Gently spills over when breaking
➢ Stronger swash (more deposition - fine grain), weaker backwash (less erosion)
➢ Gentler beach gradient, on sheltered coast
➢ Wave frequency: 6-8 waves/min
What are destructive waves?
Destructive waves (Erosion) ➢ Higher energy waves ➢ High wave height, Short wave length ➢ Plunges over when breaking ➢ Weaker swash (less deposition - larger coarse pebbles left), stronger backwash (more erosion of finer sediments) ➢ Steeper beach gradient, on open coast ➢ Wave frequency: 10-14 waves/min
Describe wave refraction
- Process by which waves change direction when they approach the coast
- Occurs as waves slow down due to decreasing depth of sea bed as they reach the shore, causing uneven shorelines
Describe headlands
- Caused by destructive waves, (Steep vertical descent)
- Waves converge towards headland
- Results in waves with greater erosive energy and wave height
- MORE EROSION occurs at headland where energy is concentrated
- Waves slow down due to greater friction with the decreasing depth of sea bed, causing waves to break onto headland
Describe bays
- Caused by constructive waves (Wide indented coast)
- Waves diverge when they reach bays
- Results in decreased erosive energy
- MORE DEPOSITION occurs when wave energy is SPREAD OUT
- Waves that reach shallow water first slows down, while other parts of wave continue at the same speed
Describe sediment transport
- As waves approach straight coast at an angle, longshore current is also generated in the nearshore zone, moving sediments towards the shore
- LONGSHORE CURRENT (Ocean current that is parallel to coast)
- Due to gravity and friction however, the backwash moves sediments perpendicular to the beach, back to sea
- BEACH DRIFT (zig-zag movement of sediments along the beach)
Longshore current + beach drift =Longshore drift (Combined effect, most rapid when waves approach at 30°)
Describe sediment deposition
- Wave energy decreases, they are unable to carry sediments.
- LARGE sediments are deposited FIRST, then finer ones
- VARYING sizes of deposited sediments result in variety of beaches
- SHELTERED COAST (eg. mangroves area/bays Finer sediments)
- EXPOSED COAST (eg. headlands Coarser sediments, Destructive waves/strong backwash transports finer sediments away)
Describe formation of cliffs (rock face with steep vertical descent)
- Hydraulic actions erodes joint of rock surface, enlarging joint to form a notch
- Notch further erodes and deepens to form a bigger hollow space called a cave
- Further erosion causes roof of cave to collapse and form a steep cliff
- As erosion continues, overhanging cliff collapses and materials are deposited at the base of the cliff.
- More abrasion occurs and erodes cliff more
- Cliff will retreat inland overtime and shore platform forms
Describe formation of shore platform
- Gently sloping platform at base of cliff, covered by coarse rock debris
Describe formation of headland and bay
More resistant rocks erode slower, forming headland
Less resistant rocks erode quicker, forming bay
Describe formation of 1. Caves 2. Arches 3. Stacks
Caves
- Waves erode base of headland at the joints and undercuts it
- Continuous action of waves form a cave
Arches
- Caves develop on both sides of headland as waves erode the rock, and eventually join caves together, forming an arch
Stacks
- Roof of arch collapses to form a stack (pillar of rock in the sea left behind)
How are spits + tombolos formed
SPIT
- Long narrow ridge of sand, 1 attached to mainland, other at sea
- Where there is an abrupt end in coastline, Longshore drift continues to transport sediments & accumulates above water surface. forming ridge
- Hook/curved end may develop at one end due to wave refraction
- May form into a Tombolo
TOMBOLO
- Long narrow ridge of sand between 2 pieces of land
- Formed when spit grows & joins mainland to island or island to another
- Due to longshore drift & sediment accumulation
Longshore current,
Beach drift
Longshore drift
Longshore current: Ocean currents flowing parallel to coast
Beach drift: Zig-zag movement of sediments along the beach
Longshore drift: Combined effect of longshore current & beach drift
What are the 3 uses of coastal areas + examples?
- Fisheries & aquaculture (Ca Mau, Vietnam)
- Housing & transportation (Kukup, Malaysia, stilt houses)
- Tourism & recreation (Sentosa, SG)
What are the coastal area uses in fisheries & aquaculture
- Produces 1/3 world’s fish supply
FISHERIES: Fish bred & raised to meet growing demand
AQUACULTURE: Farming fish in cages & ponds close to coasts, rivers, converted wetlands - In China, India, Vietnam, Indonesia, Thailand
[Ca Mau, Viet]
- Nation’s shrimp production centre
- More than 60k hectares mangroves cleared for building materials in 1980s + shrimp farming
- Ponds constructed from mud & concrete to hold water for shrimps
+ve 2010, production of shrimp accelerated to record high 800 mil USD, contributed to income of country + people
-ve Clearing of mangroves that stabilise sand ->coasts now vulnerable to erosion from storms -> + Pond waste -> environmental pollution
What are the coastal area uses in housing & transportation?
- Many people live near coasts,
- Stilt houses, stilts above water connected by walkways, allowing people to move within community
- Boats as from of transport for fishing & ferry services
[Kukup, Malaysia]
- Stilt house communities
- Floating fish farms for fish breeding
- Attractive tourist spot, contributing income to economy via tourism
What are the coastal area uses of tourism & recreation?
Coastal areas transformed into tourist & recreational areas
[Sentosa, Singapore, ONE°15 Marina Club] - World class marina facilities, boat, yacht maintenance & recreation
[Resorts World Sentosa]
- Maximised waterfront by building museums, hotels, marine life park on coast
- Further developments like boardwalk connecting mainland to meet growing demand
+ve Sentosa had 19 mil visitors in 2011, 600% increase from 2003
Income generated drives SG economy
What are the distribution of coral reefs?
- Found in tropics, between Tropic of Cancer 23.5°N & Tropic of Capricorn 23.5 °S
- Philippines & Malaysia (SEA) Great Barrier Reef, (Queensland Northern AUS)
Cuba & Jamaica (Caribbean) Madagascar & Tanzania (East AFR) - Follow map in qns
What are the conditions for coral growth?
SEA SURFACE TEMP
- Warm ocean 17-18°C
SUNLIGHT
- Clear, saline water 10-60m
- Low turbidity
- Allows enough sunlight to penetrate water for algae to photosynthesise
SALINITY
- 34-37 parts per thousand
- Moderate water movement ensures sufficient oxygen
(Sediments suffocate coral reefs, Climate change causes coral bleaching)