Coasts Flashcards
(100 cards)
3.1 COASTS AS NATURAL SYSTEMS
Explain what is meant by “the coast as an open system”
- has inputs and outputs to other systems
- e.g. sediment to and from other sediment sources/stores
3.1 COASTS AS NATURAL SYSTEMS
Define the following in the context of a coastal system, and give examples for each:
- energy
- stores/components
- flows/transfers
- inputs
- outputs
- energy: power/driving force of a system (e.g. waves)
- stores/components: individual elements/parts of a system (e.g. beach)
- flows/transfers: links/relationships between components (e.g. longshore drift)
- inputs: something from the outside coming into the system (e.g. sediment)
- outputs: something moving out of the system (e.g. waves/currents)
3.1 COASTS AS NATURAL SYSTEMS
Define dynamic equilibrium in a coastal system
when there is a balance of inputs and outputs in a constantly changing system
3.1 COASTS AS NATURAL SYSTEMS
How does a positive feedback cycle differ from a negative feedback cycle? Give examples for each in the context of coastal systems
+ve feedback cycle: enhances and amplifies change, moving it further away from its equilibrium and more unstable (e.g. terminal groyne syndrome: groynes trap sediment and build up one part of the beach but starves the coast further down of sediment, so it’s more vulnerable to erosion and therefore erodes faster)
-ve feedback [cycle]: a flow/transfer leads to a decrease or decline, brings system back into its equilibrium (e.g. wave-cut platforms - base of cliff is eroded and undercut, cliff above it collapses, wave-cut platform formed, gradually platform grows, acts as a buffer to slow erosion down)
3.1 COASTS AS NATURAL SYSTEMS
How do landforms combine to form characteristic landscapes?
- Landforms are natural features or individual components which form part of the wider landscape.
- A landscape is part of the earth’s surface which can be viewed at one time from one place; it consists of geographical features that are characteristics of a particular area
3.1 COASTS AS NATURAL SYSTEMS
Illustrate how the coastal system links with other natural systems
runoff:
- when overland flow occurs down a slope or cliff face, small particles are transferred in the flow to enter the littoral zone, potentially acting as/forming an input to the coastal system.
- toxic chemicals can contaminate storm water and threaten ecosystems on the coast
3.2 SOURCES OF ENERGY AT THE COAST
Outline the differences between high-energy and low-energy coastlines
high-energy:
- tend to be rocky
- powerful/high energy waves (due to strong prevailing winds and large fetch)
- creates landforms such as headlands and bays, cliffs, wave-cut platforms
- rate of erosion > rate of deposition
low-energy:
- tend to be sandy/estuarine
- less powerful waves or where the coast is sheltered from the waves
- creates landforms such as beaches, spits, salt marshes
- rate of deposition > rate of erosion
3.2 SOURCES OF ENERGY AT THE COAST
Demonstrate how the sun and wind is the energy behind the waves
- the sun is the primary source of energy for all natural ecosystems
(- the wind transfers energy to the water) - wave energy is determined by:
- strength of wind (determined by pressure gradient)
- duration of the wind (longer duration => more powerful waves)
- fetch (distance of open water over which wind blows) (longer fetch => more powerful waves)
3.2 SOURCES OF ENERGY AT THE COAST
How does Coasts link to the core concept of causality?
causality is the relationship between cause and effect, such as the processes of erosion, weathering, transportation, deposition and mass movement cause the formation of different landforms on a landscape
3.2 SOURCES OF ENERGY AT THE COAST
How are waves formed?
- as air moves through the water, frictional drag disturbs the surface and forms ripples or waves
- as water approaches the shore, driven by the wind in a circular orbit, the water becomes shallower and the circular orbit of the water particles becomes an elliptical shape
- the wavelength and velocity both decrease, wave height increases, causing water to back up from behind and rise to a point where it starts to topple over (break)
- the water rushes up the beach as the ‘swash’ and back down as the ‘backwash’
3.2 SOURCES OF ENERGY AT THE COAST
How are beaches and waves an example of a negative feedback?
- constructive waves are associated with relatively gentle beach profiles, enabling waves to surge a long way up the beach
- but over time, more beach material accumulates, the beach steepens (working against the propagation (multiplication/spreading etc) of the constructive waves
- the waves become more destructive (plunging rather than surfing), removing material from the beach and depositing it just offshore
- this results in the profile becoming less steep, encouraging constructive waves rather than destructive waves to form
- this ‘toing and froing’ is a balancing act that will, all things being equal, result in a state of dynamic equilibrium
3.2 SOURCES OF ENERGY AT THE COAST
How does Coasts link to the core concept of vulnerability and resilience?
- the coastline is constantly and increasingly VULNERABLE to erosion, due to continuous processes like weathering and erosion
- by building defences to protect and maintain the coast, we are demonstrating RESILIENCE
3.2 SOURCES OF ENERGY AT THE COAST
Illustrate the difference between constructive and destructive waves in terms of:
- formation
- wave form
- wave break
- beach gain/loss
- beach profile
FORMATION
- constructive: caused by distant weather systems in open oceans
- destructive: caused by local storms
WAVE FORM
- constructive: low surging waves, long wavelength
- destructive: high plunging waves, short wavelength
WAVE BREAK
- constructive: stronger swash, weaker backwash
- destructive: stronger backwash, weaker swash
BEACH GAIN/LOSS
- constructive: gain
- destructive: loss
BEACH PROFILE
- constructive: usually gentle, but will eventually build up/steepen breach
- destructive: usually steep, but will eventually flatten beach
3.2 SOURCES OF ENERGY AT THE COAST
How does a Neap tide differ from a Spring tide?
Neap tides occur when the moon and sun are at 90° to the Earth
~~> low tidal range (low high tide and high low tide)
Spring tides occur when the moon and sun are parallel to the Earth
~~> high tidal range (high high tide and low low tide)
3.2 SOURCES OF ENERGY AT THE COAST
How does a rip current form?
1) waves break onto shore
2) sandbars => water accumulates at shore
3) opposing waves come in => fight against the accumulation of water created by sand bank/bar
4) causes a surge of current out to sea as the water tries to escape
5) circulation of incoming waves of varying strength meets outgoing surge of current
3.2 SOURCES OF ENERGY AT THE COAST
What is wave refraction? How is this an example of negative feedback?
wave refraction: the distortion/bending of waves as they approach an indented shoreline
- as the waves approach the headland, the energy is concentrated on the headlands and dissipated in the bays
- => more erosion of headland and more deposition in bays
- gradually …
FINISH THIS CARD
3.2 SOURCES OF ENERGY AT THE COAST
How does a high-energy coast differ from a low-energy coast?
HIGH-ENERGY COASTLINES:
- rocky
- high energy/powerful waves
- creates cliffs, headlands and bays, wave-cut platforms
- rate of erosion > rate of deposition
LOW-ENERGY COASTLINES:
- sandy beach or estuarine
- less powerful waves or where the coast is sheltered from waves
- creates beaches, spits
- rate of deposition > rate of erosion
3.3 SOURCES OF ENERGY AT THE COAST
What are the 6 sources of energy at the coast?
- waves
- wind
- tides
- currents
- storm surges
- sun
3.3 SEDIMENT SOURCES, CELLS AND BUDGETS
What are the 6 global sources of sediment?
- rivers
- cliff erosion
- longshore drift
- wind
- glaciers
- offshore
3.3 SEDIMENT SOURCES, CELLS AND BUDGETS
Explain the concept of sediment cells
- a stretch of coastline usually between two headlands where the movement of sediment is contained
- the sediment system has SOURCES/INPUTS (primarily derived from the river, coastal erosion and offshore sources such as bars/banks), TRANSFER/FLOWS (longshore drift, rip currents etc) and STORES/SINKS (beach, sand dunes, offshore bars etc)
- there are 11 around England and Wales
3.3 SEDIMENT SOURCES, CELLS AND BUDGETS
What are sediment budgets?
- the balance of sediment being added and removed from a system
- cells achieve a state of dynamic equilibrium by having the rate of erosion = rate of deposition
3.3 SEDIMENT SOURCES, CELLS AND BUDGETS
Hypothesise what can impact sediment budgets.
- floods
- severe storms (storm surges are a source of sediment)
- coastal management (groynes, sea walls etc)
3.4 WEATHERING, MASS MOVEMENT AND RUNOFF
Detail mechanical weathering at the coast
(define and give 3 examples)
The breaking up of rocks, no chemical change takes place
- freeze-thaw/frost shattering
- salt crystallisation: salt water evaporates, leaves salt crystals behind, grow over time, exert stress on the rock, breaks it apart
- wetting and drying: clay in rock expands when wet, contracts when dry, continuous cycle, causes cracks in rock which expand gradually and break apart the rock
3.4 WEATHERING, MASS MOVEMENT AND RUNOFF
Illustrate what biological weathering is at the coast
(define and give 4 examples)
The breakdown of rocks by organic activity
- thin plant roots: grow into cracks in rock which widen and break apart as roots grow
- water running: water runs over decaying vegetation, becomes acidic => increased chemical weathering
- burrowing: rabbits, bird nests etc
- marine organisms: burrowing and secreting acids