coasts🏝️ Flashcards
(23 cards)
fetch
is the distance over which the wind blows
swash
the forward movement of water towards the land
backwash
the water that rolls back into the sea after a wave breaks
destructive waves
> have a short wave length
operate in storm conditions
travel quickly and come at a rate of 10-15 per minute
occur when wave energy is high and the wave has traveled over a long fetch
erosion of the beach
swash is weaker
constructive waves
> operate in calm weather
there is a longer time between them 6-8 per minute
have a long waver length , a low height and are less steep
break on the shore and tend to deposit material , building up beaches
swash os stronger
erodes
wear away of rocks / materials on the cl
transports
carrying of the eroded material
deposit
the eroded material are dropped
attrition
when the rock particles hit each other and they become more rounded
abrasion
rock load hits against the cliffs and the cl
hydraulic action
force of waves , cavitation , air bubbles
solution
acid in the water causes a reaction which the rocks
DEPOSITION
solution
suspension
saltation
traction
longshore drift
movement of material along the shore by wave action
headland bay
coastal landforms that are formed as a result of erosion caused by waves
describe the process of coastal erosion
- Hydraulic Action
- Abrasion (Corrasion)
- Attrition
- Solution (Corrosion)
- Longshore Drift
sand dunes
are small ridges or hills of sand found at the top of a beach , above the usual each of the waves . grass will grow on them over time .
sand dunes
sea =
embryo dune
fore dune
yellow dune
grey dune
dune slack (dip)
mature dune
coral reefs 🪸
a coral reef is an onshore rock structure of living organisms built up from the remains that form lime stone skeletons .
distribution of Coral
between the tropics
where water is warmer
they are mainly on the eastern side of continents
big concentration of coral on the western side of the Pacific Ocean and in the Caribbean
conditions for coral to grow
> warm seas with temps above 20
shallow water not more than 60 meters deep
plentiful supply of oxygen in water from breaking waves
lots of seaweed present
unpolluted water
plentiful supply of plankton
clear water free from sediment
availability of light
gentle ocean currents
normal salt content of water
types of coral
fringing reef - encloses a narrow lagoon
barrier reef - encloses a wide lagoon and is found away from the coast line
atoll - circular and encloses a lagoon at the centre eg. Maldives
mangroves