Coatal Systems And Landscapes - PMT Essential Notes Flashcards
(198 cards)
What is the coastal system defined as?
An open system that receives inputs from outside and transfers outputs away from the coast
Inputs and outputs can include terrestrial, atmospheric, or oceanic systems.
What are sediment cells?
Sections of coasts bordered by prominent headlands where sediment movement is contained
They act in dynamic equilibrium which can be disrupted by human interventions or natural variations.
What are the three main areas of coastal inputs?
- Marine: Waves, Tides, Salt Spray
- Atmosphere: Sun, Air Pressure, Wind Speed and Direction
- Humans: Pollution, Recreation, Settlement, Defences
What are the outputs of the coastal system?
- Ocean currents
- Rip tides
- Sediment transfer
- Evaporation
What are stores/sinks in the coastal system?
- Beaches
- Sand Dunes
- Spits
- Bars and Tombolos
- Headlands and Bays
- Nearshore Sediment
- Cliffs
- Wave-cut Notches
- Wave-cut Platforms
- Caves
- Arches
- Stacks
- Stumps
- Salt Marshes
- Tidal Flats
- Offshore Bands and Bars
What processes link inputs, outputs, and stores in the coastal system?
- Wind-blown sand
- Mass-movement processes
- Longshore drift
- Weathering
- Erosion
- Transportation
- Deposition
What are tye types of erosion in the coastal system?
- Hydraulic Action
- Corrosion
- Attrition
- Abrasion
What are the forms of transportation in the coastal system?
- Bedload
- In suspension
- Traction
- In solution
What are the types of deposition in the coastal system?
- Gravity Settling
- Flocculation
What drives the transfers and flows in the coastal system?
- Wind
- Gravitational
- Flowing Water
True or False: Sediment cells can contain smaller subcells.
True
What accounts for the majority of sediment in the coastal zone?
Rivers account for the majority of sediment in the coastal zone.
Sediment may be deposited in estuaries which are brackish and important wildlife habitats.
What is the significance of cliff erosion?
Cliff erosion is particularly important in areas with unconsolidated cliffs because these cliffs are easily eroded, leading to rapid coastal recession and significant sediment input into the marine environment
Cliff erosion is very important in areas with unconsolidated cliffs that are eroded easily. Most erosion occurs during the winter months due to more frequent storms.
How does wind contribute to sediment transport?
Wind is a coastal energy source that can cause sand to be blown along or up a beach.
Sediment transport by winds may occur where there are sand dunes, or in glacial and desert environments which provide sediment inputs.
What role do glaciers play in sediment deposition?
Glaciers can flow directly into the ocean, depositing sediment that was stored in the ice when they calve.
How is sediment transferred to the coastal zone?
Sediment is transferred to the coastal zone when waves, tides, and currents erode offshore sediment sinks such as offshore bars.
The sediment is transported onto the beach, helping to build up the beach.
What is longshore drift?
Longshore drift is the movement of sediment along the beach due to prevailing winds that alter the direction of the waves.
This allows sediment to be transported from one section of coastline (as an output) to another stretch of coastline (as an input).
What is a sediment budget?
Sediment budgets use data of inputs, outputs, stores, and transfers to assess the gains and losses of sediment within a sediment cell.
What is the principle of dynamic equilibrium in sediment budgets?
In principle, a system will operate in a state of dynamic equilibrium where input and outputs of sediment are equal.
However, human actions and natural variation in the system can disrupt the state of equilibrium.
What is the littoral zone?
The littoral zone is the area of land between the cliffs or dunes on the coast and the offshore area that is beyond the influence of the waves.
What factors cause changes in the littoral zone?
The littoral zone is constantly changing because of short-term factors like tides and storm surges,
and long-term factors like changes in sea level and human intervention.
What is the primary source of energy for all natural systems?
The sun is the primary source of energy for all natural systems.
What is the main energy source at the coast?
The main energy source at the coast is from waves which are formed offshore.
How do waves form?
Waves form when wind moves across the surface of the water, causing frictional drag which creates small ripples and waves.