L14: Skin Care for Anti-aging Flashcards
(26 cards)
What are the external factors that causes premature skin aging?
- Depression
- Shortening of telomeres
- Sunlight (Major factor)
- Smokers; drop of Vitamin C
- Alcohol
- Diet
- Sleep
- Stress
How does sunlight cause premature skin aging?
- Exposure to sunlight creates ROS on the skin
- ROS causes lipid breakdown and DNA damage
- With prolonged damages to the skin, repair mechanisms cannot keep up
- Results in physical alterations like wrinkles (which is not due to old age)
What are the main factors contributing to the delayed photoaging in Asians?
- Diet with plenty of fresh fish and vegetables, with low meat and fat contents
- Good lifestyle
- Stress-relieving cultural activities
- Advanced health system
What are the differences between Asian and Caucasian skin?
- Thinner stratum corneum
- Higher ceramide content in stratum corneum
- Higher TEWL
- Lower NMF levels
- Less sign of aging and better elasticity recovery under UV
- No obvious wrinkles before 30
- Lower age of onset of hyperpigmentation
- Higher acute skin irritation responses
Does Asian or Caucasian show faster onset of hyperpigmentation?
Asian
Does Asian or Caucasian show faster onset of wrinkles?
Caucasians
What type of cosmetic product is more necessary for Asians?
Anti-pigmentation and skin whitening products
What type of cosmetic product is more necessary for Caucasians?
Anti-wrinkle products
What causes skin pigmentation? What is the process?
UV radiation stimulates keratinocytes to produce more signaling factors that activate melanocytes
Upregulates melanogenesis and transfer of melanin to keratinocytes
How does anti-pigmentation/skin whitening products work?
- UV protection, antioxidation
- Inhibition of the signal from keratinocytes to activate melanocytes
- Inhibit formation and maturation of melanosomes
- Inhibit melanin-synthesizing enzymes
- Inhibit melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes
Does having botanicals/natural extracts in products make it safe for use?
No.
Natural extracts contain more than one compound, making it difficult to control the concentration of any one component in the extract (especially important when the component may cause allergic reactions).
There may also be purity concerns.
Is there a direct link between diet and skin condition?
No.
What is the key ingredient in SK-II products?
Pitera
What is the benefit of Pitera?
Highly concentrated with moisturizing factors
What are the functions of niacinamide?
- Complements DNA repair
- Inhibit melanin transfer for skin whitening effects
- Reduce fine lines and wrinkles
What is the function of vitamin C and E?
Antioxidants
Why is vitamin C not effective as a radical quencher when taken as a supplement?
Vitamin C is very unstable and easily oxidized when exposed to air and sunlight
May have already degraded before being assimilated into the body or presented to the skin
What are the stable forms of vitamin C?
- Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G)
- Stay-C 50
What is the function of Lipochroman?
Antioxidant
Effective against photoaging
What are the functions of Antarcticine?
- Retains water in the skin
- Protects the skin from the cold weather
- Stimulate skin cells’ growth and regeneration
- Increases collagen and elastin, effective to reduce wrinkles
What is Argireline peptide used for?
Anti-wrinkle
Argireline is a topical alternative for…?
Botulinum toxin
What is the mechanism of action of Argireline?
Interferes with the SNARE complex via competitive inhibition, thus preventing the release of acetylcholine neurotransmitter
What is Eyeseryl peptide used for?
Used for puffy eyebags
