L5: Raw Materials for Perfumery – Part 2 (Examples) & Consumer/Regulatory Information

Question 1

What are the two most commonly used animal ingredients?

Answer 1

Ambergris and Musk

Question 2

How is ambergris like when it is fresh?

Answer 2

Black, greasy and mal-odorous

Question 3

How is ambergris like after being exposed to air?

Answer 3

Hardened, grey and develops a pleasant aroma

Question 4

What scent does ambergris give off?

Answer 4

Exotic, woody, incense-like, earthy, camphoraceous, tobacco-like, musk-like, smell of the ocean

Question 5

What is another usage of ambergris other than a fragrance material?

Answer 5

Fixative

Question 6

Briefly describe the process of the formation of ambergris.

Answer 6

1. Sperm whale produces Ambriene in its intestinal tract.
2. Excreted into the sea
3. Upon exposure to air, seawater and sunlight, it undergoes degradative reactions to form Ambergris
4. Can be extracted with alcohol to form tincture of ambergris

Question 7

What is nature-identicals of ambergris made from, and what are some of the tradenames?

Answer 7

Prepared from Sclareol.

Tradenames:

• Amberlyn
• Ambrox
• Ambroxan

Question 8

What is a synthetic ambergris substitute?

Answer 8

Karanal

Question 9

What is musk like when fresh?

Answer 9

Oily, brown liquid

Question 10

What is musk like when dried?

Answer 10

Grainy powder

Question 11

What does musk smell like?

Answer 11

Animalic character with pyridinic and urinaceous odour

Question 12

What is another usage of musk, other than providing a scent?

Answer 12

Fixative

Question 13

What is the main odour component of musk?

Answer 13

Muscone

Question 14

What are the 4 classes of synthetic musk?

Answer 14

1. Nitromusk
2. Polycyclic musk
3. Macrocyclic musk
4. Alicyclic musk

Question 15

What is the 1st nitromusk called?

Answer 15

Musk Baur

Question 16

Other than Musk Baur, what are some other examples of nitromusks?

Answer 16

• Musk Xylene

- Musk Ketone

Question 17

What are some problems faced with nitromusks?

Answer 17

• Hazardous preparation method (as it contains nitro group)

- Some nitromusks are phototoxic

Question 18

What are some examples of polycyclic musks?

Answer 18

• Tonalide

- Galaxolide

Question 19

What are the advantages of polycyclic musks?

Answer 19

• More resistant to alkaline pH; can be formulated in products that are alkaline (eg. laundry detergent)
• Very stable and inert
• Bind to fabric well

Question 20

What is the disadvantage of polycyclic musk?

Answer 20

Non-biodegradeable

Question 21

What are some examples of macrocyclic musk?

Answer 21

Muscone, cyclopentadecanolide, ethylene brassylate, habanolide

Question 22

What is the disadvantage of macrocyclic musks?

Answer 22

Costly and difficult to synthesize due to its large structure

Question 23

What are the advantages of macrocyclic musks?

Answer 23

• High tenacity
• Biodegradeable
• Bind to fabric well

Question 24

What is the characteristic of alicyclic musk?

Answer 24

Have both aliphatic and cyclic structures

Question 25

What are some examples of alicyclic musk?

Answer 25

- Cyclomusk - Helvetolide - Romandolide

Question 26

What is the definition of a cosmetic product in Singapore?

Answer 26

Defined as any substance or preparation that is intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (eg. skin, hair, nails, lips, mouth including gums, teeth, tongue) for the purpose of cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, correcting body odours or protecting them or keeping them in good condition.

Question 27

What are the labeling requirements of cosmetic products in Singapore?

Answer 27

- Name - Function - Instructions for use - List of ingredients - Country of manufacture - Content by weight or volume (e.g. g, mL) - Manufacturer’s batch number - Name and address in Singapore of company responsible for placing product in the market - Manufacturing date / expiry date* (only if expiry date is < 30 months durability) - Special precautions, if any

Question 28

The names of ingredients should be based on the most recent edition of:

Answer 28

- International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary - Chemical Abstracts Service - British Pharmacopoeia - United States Pharmacopoeia

Question 29

How should the ingredient list be like?

Answer 29

Listed in descending order

Question 30

What does "alcohol-free" mean?

Answer 30

Do not contain ethanol, but may contain other alcohols such as fatty alcohols

Question 31

What does "fragrance-free" mean?

Answer 31

Have no perceptible odour, but may contain fragrance ingredients to mask offensive odour originating from raw materials used

Question 32

What does "non-comedogenic" mean?

Answer 32

Do not contain pore-clogging ingredients that could lead to acne

Question 33

What does "cruelty-free" mean?

Answer 33

Implies that the final cosmetic product have not been tested on animals

Question 34

What does "shelf-life" refer to?

Answer 34

Amount of time for which the cosmetic product is good under normal conditions of use and storage

Question 35

What are some examples of prohibited ingredients?

Answer 35

- Benzene - Diethylene glycol - Mercury - Chloroform - Chlorofluorocarbons - Tretinoin (drug) - Antibiotics (drug)

Question 36

What does "restricted" ingredients mean?

Answer 36

Subjected to restrictions and conditions: - Type of product in which the substance is allowed - Maximum concentration allowed in finished product - Other limitations and requirements - Warnings and precautions on label

Question 37

What are some examples of restricted ingredients?

Answer 37

- Hydroquinone - Musk ketone - Calcium hydroxide - p-Phenylenediamine

Question 38

What are some unacceptable cosmetic claims?

Answer 38

``` – Removes scars – Prevents, heals, treats or stops acne – Prevents or reverses physiological changes brought about by aging – Eliminates dandruff permanently – Hair loss can be arrested or reversed – Stimulates hair growth ```