(LAB) Lip Products Flashcards by meimei moo

Very sensitive to touch, lips are very sensitive
to chemical, physical, and microbial damages

Lips

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A colored cosmetic product designed to
enhance the appearance of the lips.

Lip Makeup Product

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(Cosmetic/Therapeutic) Enhances attractiveness and accentuates the lips by imparting color and
vibrancy to the lips.

Cosmetic

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(Cosmetic/Therapeutic) Becomes of therapeutic purpose if it has UV protection or claims to have a moisturizing effect to prevent chapping or
dryness of lips.

Therapeutic

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(Type of Lip product) Designed to enhance the appearance of the lips imparting color and gloss

Lipstick

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(Type of Lip product) Designed to give the lips a glossy luster and, sometimes, subtle color

Lip gloss

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(T/F) Lip glosses consist of a higher ratio of oils and lower ratio of waxes

True

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(Type of Lip product) Designed to redefine the outline of the lips.

Lip liner

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(T/F) Lip liners are thick pencils attached to a fine brush through which the product is dispensed.

False. THIN pencils

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(Type of Lip product) Designed to temporarily prevent dryness of the lips and help relieve chapping -> OTC drug

Lip balm

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(T/F) Lip balm is a lip protectant.

True

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Types of Lipstick

Matte, Glossy/Glaze, Creme, Shimmer, Long-wearing, Lip plumping

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Lipstick rich in pigments and waxes but lighter in emollients

Matte

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Lipstick heavy in oil and contains flavor and scents

Glossy/Glaze

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Lipstick that contains high concentration of emollients; contain pigments with a smaller particle size

Creme

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Frosted lipstick

Shimmer

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Lipstick that contains light-reflecting particles

Shimmer

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Lipstick with two part system that contains colored base formula and colorless cover

Long-wearing

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Lipstick designed to make lips appear fuller by slightly irritating the delicate skin on the lips to make them swell.

Lip plumping

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Lip plumping ingredients

Ginger, cinnamon, cayenne, camphor,
menthol

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Lipstick formulation

Wax, Oils, Fats and Butters, Coloring agents, Preservatives, Fragrance, Antioxidants, Flavoring agents, Texturizing agents

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Other ingredients

Fixatives, Active ingredients

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(T/F) Lip glosses tend to dry the lips.

False. Lip products that dry the lips are mainly LONG-WEARING lipsticks.

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Ingredient that seal the color to the lips and make the lipstick “kiss-resistant.”

Silicones

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(T/F) Lip cancer occur in men more frequently than in women.

True

(T/F) Lip balms and lipsticks in viral infections should not be shared as they can transmit the virus as long as the blister fluid remains moist.

True

(T/F) Technical quality of makeup: Stability should be long-term, from 3 to 5 years.

True

May be of vegetable, animal, or synthetic origin.

Waxes

Wax examples

* Carnauba wax * Candelilla wax * Ozokerite * Paraffin wax * Beeswax

Structuring agent that give lipstick's rigidity and solidity, and stability

Waxes

About 15% of the total formulation

Waxes

(T/F) Waxes are solid at room temperature and must be melted for use.

True

Also contributes to the lipstick’s matte appearance.

Waxes

(T/F) Wax is different from waxy paste.

True

(T/F) Oils acts as emollient thus providing a moisturizing effect.

True

Prevents drying and chapping of lips and is used to disperse pigments and pearls.

Oils

(T/F) Oils are about 30% of the formulation

True

Oils examples

* Plant oil – castor oil, grape-seed oil, almond oil, coconut oil * Butters – shea butter, avocado butter * Fatty acid ester – isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate

Improve adhesiveness of the formulation to the lips

Fats and Butters

(T/F) Fats and butter: Low molecular weight silicones -> transfer-resistant lipsticks

True

Fats and butter examples

* Hydrocarbons – polyisobutene, mineral oil, petrolatum, isododecane, isoeicosane. * Silicones – Dimethicone, cyclomethicone

About 20% of the formulation

Coloring agents

(T/F) Dyes are readily water soluble, whereas pigments are insoluble

True

Types of colors

- Organic - Inorganic - Lakes - Effect pigments

* Organic colors * Red 6, 7, and 21; Yellow 6; Orange 5 * Inorganic pigments * Iron oxides (red, yellow, brown, black), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide * Lakes * Red 7 lake, Yellow 5 Lake * Effect pigments * Mica + iron oxide + titanium dioxide; bismuth oxychloride

yes tama

Coloring agent which provides a pearlescent effect

bismuth oxychloride

Coloring agent which can provide a sparkly or glittery effect, a soft luster, or a pearlescent effect depending on the coating

Micas coated with iron oxides and titanium dioxide

Protection against microbiological contamination.

Preservatives

Preservatives example

parabens and phenoxyethanol

About 1% of the formulation

Preservatives, Fragrances, Antioxidants

To mask the fatty or waxy odor due to the wax and oils/butter ingredients.

Fragrances

Usually used as an oil-based concentrate to be miscible with other oils in the formulation.

Fragrances

Prevents rancidity and oxidation.

Antioxidant

Antioxidant examples

Vitamin E, ascorbic acid, BHT and BHA

Must be FDA-approved; Taste can be adjusted by adding saccharin

Flavoring agent

Example of flavoring agent

Lip plumping products containing cinnamon or menthol.

Can provide moisture, brightness, and subtlety depending on the material.

Texturizing ingredients

10% of formulation

Texturizing ingredients

Texturizing ingredients examples

Talc, silica, mica * Silica bead – provides subtlety * Titanium dioxide – provides a soft-focus effect * Bismuth oxychloride – gives a satin, shimmering effect

(Texturizing) Provides a soft-focus effect

Titanium dioxide

(Texturizing ingredient) Gives a satin, shimmering effect

Bismuth oxychloride

(Texturizing ingredient) Provide subtlety

Silica bead

Help seal the lipstick to the lips thus preventing it from “bleeding”

Fixatives

Silicone resins are example of

Fixatives

(T/F) Active ingredients should be listed in the OTC monographs

True

Example of active ingredient

UV filters like sunscreens, beta-carotene, Vitamin A, and Vitamin C.

Most frequently applied technique to produce lipsticks and lip balms

Molding

Steps of Molding

1 Pigment premilling 2 Melting and mixing 3 Molding and packaging 4 Flaming

Agglomerates in the powder are broken up

Pigment premilling

Waxes are heated and melted

Melting and Waxing

Melted lipstick mix is poured into plastic or metal molds

Molding

Lipsticks are passed through flame

Flaming

Quality related problems

Aeration Laddering Chipping or Cracking Deformation Cratering Streaking Sweating Mushy Failure Seams

Also known as Pinholing

Aeration

Formation of tiny holes on the surface of the stick

Aeration

Cause of Aeration

Melted ingredients are mixed quickly and immediately molded

Multilayered, ladder-like appearance

Laddering

Causes of Laddering

* Mold being kept at a very low-temperature * Lipstick mix is not hot enough * Filling rate is too slow

Occurs when the lipstick mix is too brittle.

Chipping/Cracking

Causes of chipping or cracking

* Imbalanced wax/oil ration * Faulty cooling technique

Abnormal lipstick shape

Deformation

(T/F) Deformation is more noticeable in softer formulas.

True

Causes of deformation

* Imbalanced wax/oil ratio * Adverse temperature gradient

Presence of dimples (spots) on the stick’s surface formed during flaming

Cratering

Causes of cratering

Presence of trace amounts of oils either in the formula or in the formulation process.

Appearance of discontinuities and streaks

Streaking

Causes of streaking

* Particle size * Wettability

Appearance of oil droplets on the stick’s surface

Sweating

Causes of sweating

* Incompatibility between individual ingredients * Imbalanced composition

Central core of the stick lacks structure and breaks

Mushy failure

Causes of mushy failure

* Speed-related * Temperature of molding

Also known as Vertical marks

Seams

Occurs when split molds are used

Seams

Lipstick packaging

Lipstick cases/tubes

Efficacy Parameter

Moisturizing effect: Hydration state measurement

Most frequently tested efficacy parameter

Moisturizing effect

Safety parameter

Lead content (heavy metal): Lead Content Determination -> Batch Certification

Maximum specified level of lead content

20 PPM

Quality Parameters

* Break strength * Color matching * Color brightness and streakiness * Melting point determination

Induced by a hemispherical edged blade, which simulates the bending action.

Break strength

Dispersed pigments and the finished product are compared to a previously approved standard color.

Color Matching

(LAB) Lip Products Flashcards

(101 cards)