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test 3 Flashcards

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1
Q

why should we have understanding of the chemicals 4

A
  • how it benefits and side effects- helps select
  • to educate clients and recommend use
  • to explain what they do, why, and expectations- confidence
  • remaining on top of the latest ingredients
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2
Q

who is responsible for ensuring safety of cosmetics

A

Food and drug administration

FDA

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3
Q

2 most important laws for cosmetics marketed

A

the federal food, drug and cosmetic act

the fair packaging and labelling act

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4
Q

does the FDA approve cosmetics

A

they do not approve before entering market

they only regulate in relation to safety, levelling, and claims

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5
Q

how does the law define a cosmetic

A

articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, applied to body, for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering appearance.

intended affect appearance of the skin

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6
Q

how does the law define a drug

A

articles intended for using in diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease

articles intended to affect function or structure of the body

intended to cause physiological change- structure and function of skin

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7
Q

cosmeceutical

A

a bridge between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals

professional grade skin care/makeup that contains pharmaceutical-grade ingredients

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8
Q

what must product labels list

A

company name

location/distribution point

all ingredients

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9
Q

how must ingredients be listed on product 4

A

descending order of predominance

highest to lowest concentration

concentration less than 1% can be any order

fragrance must be listed as fragrance - particular ingredients don’t.

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10
Q

INCI

A

international nomenclature cosmetic ingredient

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11
Q

who is INCI allocated by

A

American cosmetic association
and personal care products council

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12
Q

what format are ingredients listed and why

A

INCI

consistently listed using same ingredient name product to product - to easily compare

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13
Q

adverse reactions

A

many ingredients can cause adverse reactions

fragrances, some preservatives, chemical sunscreen are most common

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14
Q

symptoms of irritant reaction

A

burning

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15
Q

symptoms of allergic reaction

A

itching, inflammation, blisters, hives, rashes, eye swelling, puff, tear

can be detected immediately or in days/weeks

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16
Q

patch test

A

pretest small quantity of product on inside of arm, elbow, or behind ear

if reacts within 24hrs avoid use

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17
Q

how to handle an adverse reaction

A

immediately remove product, rinse the skin with cold water, apply cool compress until skin calms

have products to calm skin reactions

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18
Q

if client has reaction requiring medical treatment 2

A

the manufacture is responsible- unless product was purchased in bulk, repackaged by salon & resold- salon is in fault

malpractice insurance does not cover products formulated/repackaged in salon

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19
Q

if client has adverse reaction to homeware products reccomended

A

advise to discontinue use immediately

may choose to use over the counter hydrocortisone cream

if reaction is serious- seek medical care and bring product with them

manufacturer of product should be notified

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20
Q

ingredients derived naturally

A

from natural sources; plants, vitamins, animals

can have powerful skin benefits

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21
Q

ingredients derived from synthetic sources

A

made in lab from chemical compounds

can be just as effective with certain advantages- no pesticides and no ecological foot print

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22
Q

hyaluronic acid; natural and synthetic

A

natural- from rooster combs

synthetic- used in cosmetics, more stable, more effective water binding technology

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23
Q

popular terms

A

are not regulated by law but used as descriptive words for marketing

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24
Q

natural/all natural

A

often used for skincare product and ingredients derived from natural sources

no specific legal definition so used loosely s

seemed by consumers avoiding chemical free products- but all life forms are made of chemicals.t

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25
toxic ingredients
can be from natural and synthetic sources many resources to easily find toxicity ratings of ingredients
26
organic
describes natural-sourced ingredients grown without use of pesticides or chemicals becoming more popular FDA does not define or regulate term applying to cosmetic, body care, personal care products. only regulation for term is USDA- us department of agriculture if products contains agricultural ingredients and meets certain standards it may be eligible certified organic under National Organic Program regulations
27
cruelty free
term used to describe products that are not tested on animals at any stage of the production process no ingredients tested on animals
28
vegan
no animal ingredients or animal by products includes honey, beeswax, lanolin, collagen. term is not regulated and often used to note product does not contain animal ingredients, but may still contain by products
29
gluten
general name for proteins found in wheat, rye and triticale celiac disease, gluten sensitivity, and intolerance are on the rise
30
Celiac disease
autoimmune disorder where eating gluten caused the lining of small intestine become inflamed
31
gluten free product
no scientific evidence product with gluten is harmful unless ingested used on lips or in mouth wheat and other grain allergies can cause reaction.
32
what are gluten source ingredients labelled as
hydrolyzed wheat protein tritium vulgare oil/extract (wheat germ) wheat amino acids
33
how to get gluten free claim
FDA an organizations concerned with food standards have set thresholds less than 20 parts per million of gluten (ppm)
34
hypoallergenic
`dermatologist tested and nonirritating terms often used described ingredients or products less likely to cause allergic reaction not a guarantee
35
non comedogenic
refers to ingredients that will not clog pores
36
comedogenic
refers to ingredients that tend to clog pored especially black heads
37
fragrance free
doesn't mean no smell indicates no additional ingredients have been added to the product to specially provide a fragrance may already contain ingredients with a scent (lavender for different benefits but fragrant)
38
unscented
products formulated to have no smell most ingredients have odour so more are added to mask and neutralize smell
39
functional ingredients
do not affect appearance of skin but needed for formulation of product can be vehicles to spread, add body or texture, give form-lotion, cream, gel.
40
common functional ingredients 10
water emollients surfactants delivery system preservatives fragrance color agents thickeners pH adjusters solvents
41
performance ingredients
cause actual change to the appearance of the skin - ingredients the moisturize, exfoliate smooth surface. aka active ingredients (drug industry) - chemically cause physiological change
42
water category and purpose
category- functional and performance function- keeps other ingredients in solution and acts as vehicle to spread performance- replenished moisture on surface
43
anhydrous
products that do not contain water oil based, silicone serums , petroleum based aloe vera ten used to replace water
44
emollients category and purpose
category- functional and performance functional- help place, spread and keep substance on skin performance- lubricate surface and guard barrier function
45
what are emollients
most common performance ingredient made of lipids- fat, oil, wax natural or synthesized lie on top of skin preventing dehydration by tapping water and decreasing water loss
46
types of emollients- oils
vary in density and fat content/heviness can be beneficial to all skin types mineral source and botanical sources
47
mineral sourced oils
from the earth protection against dehydration, prevent skin contact with irritants nonreactive and biologically inert do not harbour bacteria or organisms examples- liquid paraffin, mineral oil, petrolatum
48
botanical sourced oils
derived from plants coconut and palm oil heaviest and fattiest argan and hemp seed oil lighter and good fro oily problem skin
49
surfactant category and purpose
category- functional reduce tension between skin and product and increase ability to spread cleansing agents, foaming agents emulsifiers creating stable mixture of oil and water
50
how do surfactants work
become infused with both oil and water mixtures have molecules with water loving head- hydrophilic and oil loving tails- lipophilic
51
types of surfactants - detergents
main type used primarily in cleansing products cause foam and remove oil, dirt, makeup and debris from surface. gentle detergents can be derived from natural sources - coconut
52
types of surfactants- emulsifiers
cause oil and water to mix without oil and water would separate surround oil particles allowing them to remain evenly distributed throughout water two types- oil-in-water (O/W more hydrating products) and water-in-oil (W/O rich moisturizers)
53
fragrance category and purpose
category- functional may be added to mask formulation unpleasant smell, neutralize smell or improve experience synthetic and natural, essential oils, aromatherapy
54
colours subject to certification
subject to FDA batch certification synthetic organic dyes, lakes, pigments synthesized from raw materials obtained from petroleum listed as D&C (drug and cosmetic) or FD&C (food drug cosmetic)
55
colours exempt from certification
obtained primarily from mineral, plant, animal sources not subject to FDA batch certification requirements - still artificial colours when used with cosmetics or FDA products must comply to labeling requirements
56
lighteners and brighteners category and purpose
performance brightening- natural radiance and gloww to skin lightening- improve discolouration
57
humectant, hydrators and hydrophilic agents
attract water to skin surface and lock it in algae extract, aloe, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, honey
58
antioxidants
protect from free radicals by neutralizing before they attach to cell membrane protect damage from pollution's and LED daily application prevents aging and inflammation process green tea, pomegranate, vitamin C,A, E
59
lakes
insoluble pigments preventing leaking - lipstick combines dyes with inorganic materials
60
thickeners category and function
functional to give specific consistency or to help suspend ingredients derived from lipids, emulsifiers, polymers minerals and synthetic ingredients
61
carbomers
frequently used in gel products to thicken creams
62
ph adjusters
stabilize ph and prevent changes acetic acid citric acid sodium bicarbonate
63
solvents
help dissolve ingredients alcohol water
64
botanicals category and purpose
performance major source in skin care and treatment support health, texture, integrity of skin, healing, soothing and brightening antimicrobal and antioxidant benefits
65
ingredients for exfoliiation
performance ingredients - mechanical and chemical remove dead skin from surface, can brighten, and clear path for other products
66
mechanical exfoliation
aka physical polish away and loosen dead cells from skin beeswax ground nuts and seeds jojoba beads oatmeal
67
chemical exfoliation
dissolve dead skin cells on surface and matrix (desmosomes) can brighten tone and improve acne enzymes, AHA, Retinol
68
enzymes
dissolve keratin proteins maintaining hydration level bromelain (pineapple), papain (papaya) , pancreatin (beef by-product), pumpkin
69
AHA
water soluble and dissolves glue holding skin cells together brighten and smooth, aid in cell turnover and collagen production. citric, glycolic, malic, mandellic, lactic, tartaric.
70
glycolic acid
smaller molecular structure penetrates deepest
71
lactic acid
larger molecular structure gentle and less irritating increase natural moisture and barrier
72
mandelic acid
largest molecular structure gentle improve skin tone and texture antibacterial and sebum regulating
73
BHA
has salicylic acid dissolves bond oil soluble meadowsweet, willow bark
74
retinol
vitamin A derivative no visible redness or immediate exfoliation
75
vitamins
essential for health and function can cause effect in skin
76
vitamin a
antioxidant Uv damage and aging
77
vitamin c
stimulates collagen skin tone, inflammation
78
vitamin e
strengthens skin natural barrier heal and repair
79
b vitamins
hydrate, soothe, heal
80
vitamin k
improve stretch marks , spider veins, scars and eye area
81
universal ingredients
antioxidants vitamins minerals physical sunscreen ingredients
82
role of sun protection
absorb scatter reflect
83
spf
sun protection factor- how long it protects does not apply to UVA
84
FDA labelling requirement for sunscreen
term sunblock cannot me used - no product 100% blocks cannot label waterproof/sweatproof would overstate effectiveness cannot claim to protect for more than 2hrs without reapplication, or protect immediately after - with our data to support and FDA approval

Esthetic Science (4 decks)

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