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Esthetic Science > test 3 > Flashcards

test 3 Flashcards

1
Q

why should we have understanding of the chemicals 4

A
  • how it benefits and side effects- helps select
  • to educate clients and recommend use
  • to explain what they do, why, and expectations- confidence
  • remaining on top of the latest ingredients
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2
Q

who is responsible for ensuring safety of cosmetics

A

Food and drug administration

FDA

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3
Q

2 most important laws for cosmetics marketed

A

the federal food, drug and cosmetic act

the fair packaging and labelling act

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4
Q

does the FDA approve cosmetics

A

they do not approve before entering market

they only regulate in relation to safety, levelling, and claims

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5
Q

how does the law define a cosmetic

A

articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, applied to body, for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering appearance.

intended affect appearance of the skin

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6
Q

how does the law define a drug

A

articles intended for using in diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease

articles intended to affect function or structure of the body

intended to cause physiological change- structure and function of skin

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7
Q

cosmeceutical

A

a bridge between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals

professional grade skin care/makeup that contains pharmaceutical-grade ingredients

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8
Q

what must product labels list

A

company name

location/distribution point

all ingredients

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9
Q

how must ingredients be listed on product 4

A

descending order of predominance

highest to lowest concentration

concentration less than 1% can be any order

fragrance must be listed as fragrance - particular ingredients don’t.

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10
Q

INCI

A

international nomenclature cosmetic ingredient

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11
Q

who is INCI allocated by

A

American cosmetic association
and personal care products council

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12
Q

what format are ingredients listed and why

A

INCI

consistently listed using same ingredient name product to product - to easily compare

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13
Q

adverse reactions

A

many ingredients can cause adverse reactions

fragrances, some preservatives, chemical sunscreen are most common

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14
Q

symptoms of irritant reaction

A

burning

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15
Q

symptoms of allergic reaction

A

itching, inflammation, blisters, hives, rashes, eye swelling, puff, tear

can be detected immediately or in days/weeks

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16
Q

patch test

A

pretest small quantity of product on inside of arm, elbow, or behind ear

if reacts within 24hrs avoid use

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17
Q

how to handle an adverse reaction

A

immediately remove product, rinse the skin with cold water, apply cool compress until skin calms

have products to calm skin reactions

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18
Q

if client has reaction requiring medical treatment 2

A

the manufacture is responsible- unless product was purchased in bulk, repackaged by salon & resold- salon is in fault

malpractice insurance does not cover products formulated/repackaged in salon

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19
Q

if client has adverse reaction to homeware products reccomended

A

advise to discontinue use immediately

may choose to use over the counter hydrocortisone cream

if reaction is serious- seek medical care and bring product with them

manufacturer of product should be notified

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20
Q

ingredients derived naturally

A

from natural sources; plants, vitamins, animals

can have powerful skin benefits

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21
Q

ingredients derived from synthetic sources

A

made in lab from chemical compounds

can be just as effective with certain advantages- no pesticides and no ecological foot print

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22
Q

hyaluronic acid; natural and synthetic

A

natural- from rooster combs

synthetic- used in cosmetics, more stable, more effective water binding technology

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23
Q

popular terms

A

are not regulated by law but used as descriptive words for marketing

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24
Q

natural/all natural

A

often used for skincare product and ingredients derived from natural sources

no specific legal definition so used loosely s

seemed by consumers avoiding chemical free products- but all life forms are made of chemicals.t

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25
Q

toxic ingredients

A

can be from natural and synthetic sources

many resources to easily find toxicity ratings of ingredients

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26
Q

organic

A

describes natural-sourced ingredients grown without use of pesticides or chemicals

becoming more popular

FDA does not define or regulate term applying to cosmetic, body care, personal care products.

only regulation for term is USDA- us department of agriculture

if products contains agricultural ingredients and meets certain standards it may be eligible certified organic under National Organic Program regulations

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27
Q

cruelty free

A

term used to describe products that are not tested on animals at any stage of the production process

no ingredients tested on animals

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28
Q

vegan

A

no animal ingredients or animal by products

includes honey, beeswax, lanolin, collagen.

term is not regulated and often used to note product does not contain animal ingredients, but may still contain by products

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29
Q

gluten

A

general name for proteins found in wheat, rye and triticale

celiac disease, gluten sensitivity, and intolerance are on the rise

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30
Q

Celiac disease

A

autoimmune disorder where eating gluten caused the lining of small intestine become inflamed

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31
Q

gluten free product

A

no scientific evidence product with gluten is harmful unless ingested used on lips or in mouth

wheat and other grain allergies can cause reaction.

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32
Q

what are gluten source ingredients labelled as

A

hydrolyzed wheat protein

tritium vulgare oil/extract (wheat germ)

wheat amino acids

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33
Q

how to get gluten free claim

A

FDA an organizations concerned with food standards have set thresholds

less than 20 parts per million of gluten (ppm)

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34
Q

hypoallergenic

A

`dermatologist tested and nonirritating terms often used

described ingredients or products less likely to cause allergic reaction

not a guarantee

35
Q

non comedogenic

A

refers to ingredients that will not clog pores

36
Q

comedogenic

A

refers to ingredients that tend to clog pored especially black heads

37
Q

fragrance free

A

doesn’t mean no smell

indicates no additional ingredients have been added to the product to specially provide a fragrance

may already contain ingredients with a scent (lavender for different benefits but fragrant)

38
Q

unscented

A

products formulated to have no smell

most ingredients have odour so more are added to mask and neutralize smell

39
Q

functional ingredients

A

do not affect appearance of skin but needed for formulation of product

can be vehicles to spread, add body or texture, give form-lotion, cream, gel.

40
Q

common functional ingredients 10

A

water

emollients

surfactants

delivery system

preservatives

fragrance

color agents

thickeners

pH adjusters

solvents

41
Q

performance ingredients

A

cause actual change to the appearance of the skin

  • ingredients the moisturize, exfoliate smooth surface.

aka active ingredients (drug industry) - chemically cause physiological change

42
Q

water category and purpose

A

category- functional and performance

function- keeps other ingredients in solution and acts as vehicle to spread

performance- replenished moisture on surface

43
Q

anhydrous

A

products that do not contain water

oil based, silicone serums , petroleum based

aloe vera ten used to replace water

44
Q

emollients category and purpose

A

category- functional and performance

functional- help place, spread and keep substance on skin

performance- lubricate surface and guard barrier function

45
Q

what are emollients

A

most common performance ingredient

made of lipids- fat, oil, wax

natural or synthesized

lie on top of skin preventing dehydration by tapping water and decreasing water loss

46
Q

types of emollients- oils

A

vary in density and fat content/heviness

can be beneficial to all skin types

mineral source and botanical sources

47
Q

mineral sourced oils

A

from the earth

protection against dehydration, prevent skin contact with irritants
nonreactive and biologically inert

do not harbour bacteria or organisms

examples- liquid paraffin, mineral oil, petrolatum

48
Q

botanical sourced oils

A

derived from plants

coconut and palm oil heaviest and fattiest

argan and hemp seed oil lighter and good fro oily problem skin

49
Q

surfactant category and purpose

A

category- functional

reduce tension between skin and product and increase ability to spread

cleansing agents, foaming agents

emulsifiers creating stable mixture of oil and water

50
Q

how do surfactants work

A

become infused with both oil and water mixtures

have molecules with water loving head- hydrophilic and oil loving tails- lipophilic

51
Q

types of surfactants - detergents

A

main type used primarily in cleansing products

cause foam and remove oil, dirt, makeup and debris from surface.

gentle detergents can be derived from natural sources - coconut

52
Q

types of surfactants- emulsifiers

A

cause oil and water to mix

without oil and water would separate

surround oil particles allowing them to remain evenly distributed throughout water

two types- oil-in-water (O/W more hydrating products) and water-in-oil (W/O rich moisturizers)

53
Q

fragrance category and purpose

A

category- functional

may be added to mask formulation unpleasant smell, neutralize smell or improve experience

synthetic and natural, essential oils, aromatherapy

54
Q

colours subject to certification

A

subject to FDA batch certification

synthetic organic dyes, lakes, pigments

synthesized from raw materials obtained from petroleum

listed as D&C (drug and cosmetic) or FD&C (food drug cosmetic)

55
Q

colours exempt from certification

A

obtained primarily from mineral, plant, animal sources

not subject to FDA batch certification requirements - still artificial colours

when used with cosmetics or FDA products must comply to labeling requirements

56
Q

lighteners and brighteners category and purpose

A

performance

brightening- natural radiance and gloww to skin

lightening- improve discolouration

57
Q

humectant, hydrators and hydrophilic agents

A

attract water to skin surface and lock it in

algae extract, aloe, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, honey

58
Q

antioxidants

A

protect from free radicals by neutralizing before they attach to cell membrane

protect damage from pollution’s and LED

daily application prevents aging and inflammation process

green tea, pomegranate, vitamin C,A, E

59
Q

lakes

A

insoluble pigments preventing leaking - lipstick

combines dyes with inorganic materials

60
Q

thickeners category and function

A

functional

to give specific consistency or to help suspend ingredients

derived from lipids, emulsifiers, polymers minerals and synthetic ingredients

61
Q

carbomers

A

frequently used in gel products to thicken creams

62
Q

ph adjusters

A

stabilize ph and prevent changes

acetic acid

citric acid

sodium bicarbonate

63
Q

solvents

A

help dissolve ingredients

alcohol
water

64
Q

botanicals category and purpose

A

performance

major source in skin care and treatment

support health, texture, integrity of skin, healing, soothing and brightening

antimicrobal and antioxidant benefits

65
Q

ingredients for exfoliiation

A

performance ingredients - mechanical and chemical

remove dead skin from surface, can brighten, and clear path for other products

66
Q

mechanical exfoliation

A

aka physical

polish away and loosen dead cells from skin

beeswax

ground nuts and seeds

jojoba beads

oatmeal

67
Q

chemical exfoliation

A

dissolve dead skin cells on surface and matrix (desmosomes)

can brighten tone and improve acne

enzymes, AHA, Retinol

68
Q

enzymes

A

dissolve keratin proteins maintaining hydration level

bromelain (pineapple), papain (papaya) , pancreatin (beef by-product), pumpkin

69
Q

AHA

A

water soluble and dissolves glue holding skin cells together

brighten and smooth, aid in cell turnover and collagen production.

citric, glycolic, malic, mandellic, lactic, tartaric.

70
Q

glycolic acid

A

smaller molecular structure

penetrates deepest

71
Q

lactic acid

A

larger molecular structure

gentle and less irritating

increase natural moisture and barrier

72
Q

mandelic acid

A

largest molecular structure

gentle

improve skin tone and texture

antibacterial and sebum regulating

73
Q

BHA

A

has salicylic acid

dissolves bond

oil soluble

meadowsweet, willow bark

74
Q

retinol

A

vitamin A derivative

no visible redness or immediate exfoliation

75
Q

vitamins

A

essential for health and function

can cause effect in skin

76
Q

vitamin a

A

antioxidant
Uv damage and aging

77
Q

vitamin c

A

stimulates collagen
skin tone, inflammation

78
Q

vitamin e

A

strengthens skin natural barrier heal and repair

79
Q

b vitamins

A

hydrate, soothe, heal

80
Q

vitamin k

A

improve stretch marks , spider veins, scars and eye area

81
Q

universal ingredients

A

antioxidants
vitamins
minerals
physical sunscreen ingredients

82
Q

role of sun protection

A

absorb
scatter
reflect

83
Q

spf

A

sun protection factor- how long it protects

does not apply to UVA

84
Q

FDA labelling requirement for sunscreen

A

term sunblock cannot me used - no product 100% blocks

cannot label waterproof/sweatproof would overstate effectiveness

cannot claim to protect for more than 2hrs without reapplication, or protect immediately after - with our data to support and FDA approval

Esthetic Science (4 decks)

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