The Marine Environment Flashcards

(92 cards)

1
Q

What are the 3 parts of the sea

A

Waves, Currents and Tides

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2
Q

What 3 factors do wave size depend on

A

Speed of the wind, Duration of the wind and the fetch

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3
Q

What is Fetch

A

The distance the wave has traveled

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4
Q

What are waves created by

A

Friction between wind and the sea

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5
Q

Why do waves get higher the closer to the coast

A

The sea beds slows the base of the waves

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6
Q

When waves break, what do they send water up a beach as

A

Swash

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7
Q

What is the water flowing back called from a wave wash

A

Backwash

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8
Q

What is the high point of a wave called

A

Crest

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9
Q

What is the low point of a wave called

A

Trough

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10
Q

What are the 2 types of waves

A

Destructive and Constructive waves

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11
Q

What height do Destructive waves have

A

Steep, high and break rapidly

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12
Q

Where do Destructive waves break

A

Shores with steep gradients

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13
Q

Where is the energy focused in Destructive waves

A

Small areas

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14
Q

What kind of a backwash do Destructive waves have

A

Strong backwash

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15
Q

Do Destructive waves cause weathering, erosion or decomposition

A

Erosion

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16
Q

When are Destructive waves common

A

During the winter

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17
Q

What height do Constructive waves have

A

Flat, low and break gently

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18
Q

Where do Where do Constructive waves break

A

Shores with gentle gradients

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19
Q

Where is the energy focused in Constructive waves

A

Over a wide area

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20
Q

What kind of a backwash do Constructive waves have

A

Little as water soaks through the sand

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21
Q

Do Constructive waves cause weathering, erosion or decomposition

A

Decomposition

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22
Q

When are Constructive Waves common

A

During the Summer

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23
Q

What is wave retraction

A

the bending of waves around an obstacle

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24
Q

What causes a wave to slow down in wave retraction

A

The waves move into shallow water

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25
What are the 6 processes of erosion hurlers are awful at cooking and soccer
Hydraulic action abrasion attrition compressed air solution
26
What is hydraulic action in waves
force of breaking waves on the coastline
27
What is abrasion in waves
Rocks carried by waves that hit against the coastline
28
what is attrition in waves
rocks hitting off eachother
29
what is compressed air in waves
air that is compressed into cracks in rocks and the decompression
30
what is solution in waves
chemical reaction between sea and rocks
31
What 4 factors effect the rate of erosion
Size and speed of wave shape of coastline rock type and joints rising sea level
32
Name 2 Irish features of erosion
Bays and headlands in tramore bay sea cliff in cliffs of mohar co.clare
33
How are bays and headlands eroded
waves crashing against a coast of rocks
34
What determines the speed of which a rock is eroded at
The hardness of the rock
35
Why do bays often have a beach
Because the waves are slower due to refraction causing decomposition
36
What is a headland
land jutting out into the sea
37
What is a bay
An inlet in the coast
38
Where can a bay and a headland be seen
Tramore bay and wicklow head
39
Where is the notch on a sea cliff formed
Near the high water mark
40
What stops the notch on a sea cliff from being formed
When the notch is undercutted until overhanging rock collapses
41
Give a location of a sea cliff in Ireland
Cliffs of Moher
42
What type of sea cliffs are most impacted by erosion
Softer boulder clay cliffs
43
What does vegetation on a sea cliff show
That it is inactive
44
Where does a sea cliff develop
at a weak point on a headland
45
How is sea stack formed
When the arch gets bigger and the roof collapses
46
Give an Irish example of a sea stack
Old head of Kinsale
47
How are blow holes formed
When compressed air escapes through weak points in the roof of caves
48
What are GEOS
Ling, narrow, steep inlets that develop when the roof of a cave collapses
49
Give an Irish Location of a blowhole and Geo
Bridges of Ross, Clare
50
where do sediments come from
Marine activity and rivers
51
What 3 factors transports sediments
swash, currents and tides
52
what are currents
movement of water within the sea
53
How are currents brought on shore
By the breaking of waves
54
Where do rip currents move
Away from the coast line
55
Where do longshore currents move
Close to the coastline
56
What is the main role of currents
to transport sediments
57
What is longshore drift
the movement of sediments (sand)
58
Give an example of a beach and dune
tramore beach
59
Give an example of a sand spit, bar and lagoon
Inch Co.Kerry
60
Give an example of a tombolo
Sutton Co.Dublin
61
What are beaches
gently sloping deposits of loose material
62
How are beaches formed
by longshore drift and constructive waves
63
What are the 2 sections of a beach
Backshore and foreshore
64
What is a backshore
steep gradient and coarse material
65
what is foreshore
gentle gradient and fine material
66
What is a berm
A ridge of sand that is slowly moved up a beach by successive incoming tides
67
What are beach cups
semi circular features of sediments in an arc pattern
68
What produces ridges
The spreading out of the waves energy across a wide are of beach
69
Where can sand dunes be seen
Tramore
70
How does sand get to the dunes from the beach
Prevailing winds
71
What helps anchor sand dunes
Marram grass
72
What are sand spits
long, narrow ridges of sand with one end attached to land and the other jutting across a bay
73
Give a location of sand spit
Inch, Co,Kerry or tramore
74
What shapes can sand spits be
hooked or curved
75
How do double sand spits occur
When a second spit develops on the other side of a bay
76
What is responsible for a double sand spit
A change in wind direction
77
How are sand bars developed
When a sand spit closes the mouth of a bay
78
What is a Tombolo
A ridge of beach material that extends outwards to join with an offshore island
79
What creates a Tombolo
Longshore drift and wave refraction
80
Give a location of a Tombolo
Sutton Co. Dublin
81
What is coastal management
Managing coastal areas to balance environmental, economic and human activities
82
What are the 2 methods to prevent human interaction
Hard and soft engineering
83
What is slow engineering
Used to slow down erosion in a natural way
84
What is Hard engineering
Used to prevent erosion destruction clogging up a shipping lane
85
What prevents marram grass trampling
fences in sand dunes
86
What are placed in front of Dunes to trap sand and encourage plant growth
Bach mats
87
What is it called to pump sand on a beach to replenish its stock
Bach nourishment
88
What are built to prevent erosion of valuable land
Sea walls
89
What is built to absorb energy of the waves
Rock armour
90
What are built to reduce the force of the waves before they are hit
Breakwaters
91
What are wooden or concrete walls which are built at right angles to rap sand carried by longshore drift
Gryones
92
What are wire mesh cages filled with large stones to absorb energy called
Gabions