UNIT 2 Flashcards
(197 cards)
1
Q
one off production
A
expensive, made-to-measure, highly skilled workers
2
Q
mass production
A
products that don’t change with fashion, identical, cost effective
3
Q
progressive bundle system
A
teams produce parts of a garment to be passed onto the next team
4
Q
EPOS
A
electronic point of sale, tills in the shops which give details of what is being sold
5
Q
QRM
A
quick response manufacturing, produces garments quickly in response to customer demand
6
Q
What does a fashion designer do?
A
creating designs by hand or CAD, keeping up-to-date with trends, work with buyers and forecasters to develop products
7
Q
what does a retail buyer have to consider before buying?
A
customer demand, market trends, store policy
8
Q
What does a merchandiser do?
A
ensure products appear at the right store a the right time, accurately forecast trends, plan stock levels
9
Q
what does a fabric and garment technologist do?
A
works on the design, development, and production of fibres, yarns, and textiles
10
Q
what does a visual merchandiser do?
A
design displays - window and in-store
11
Q
fad
A
catch on well and peak quickly
12
Q
example of a fad
A
jeggings
13
Q
classic
A
practical, easy to use products that are always needed
14
Q
example of a classic product
A
tights
15
Q
standard product life cycle
A
most fashion products follow a standard cycle lasting about two years
16
Q
example of a product with a standard life cycle
A
pencil skirt
17
Q
characteristics of niche markets
A
large enough to be profitable, has demand growth potential, sufficiently differenciated
18
Q
advantages of niche markets
A
less competition, clear focus, requires fewer resources
19
Q
disadvantages of niche markets
A
lack of economies of scale, attracts competition, small number of customers
20
Q
economy of scale
A
buy more so get it cheaper
21
Q
examples of niche markets
A
industrial clothing, hoppy clothing, subculture clothing
22
Q
ecommerce
A
refers to the buying and selling over the internet
23
Q
examples of ethical issues
A
body image, fur, cultures
24
Q
negative effects of major developments in textiles technology
A
more products so bad on environment
throwaway fashion
less employment so bad for economy
ethical issues (pressure to make garments cheaper so pay people less)
25
trickle down effect
style adopted by top of society and lower people try to copy it but once the lower people have it the top people don't want it
26
example of trickle down effect
Burberry's iconic check was easily copied and sold cheaply so now is rarely used
27
example of a trade fair
Premiere Vision, held twice a year in Paris
28
eco-fashion
clothes that take into account the environment, the health of consumers, and the working conditions of people in the fashion industry
29
risk assesment
identifying the risks and putting control systems in place to minimise the risk of injury or accident
30
HSE
(the health and safety executive) advises people of health and safety and sets regulations that employers must follow
31
BS5722
flammability of fabrics used in sleepwear and dressing gowns
32
performance textiles
for outdoor pursuits or sport - specific end use eg skiing or swimming
33
what is vivienne westwood best known for?
setting off the punk trend and being generally shocking and controversial
34
major developments in fibre production
non traditional fibre sources such as pineapple leaf
35
major developments in yarn production
heat treatments on yarn to give texture such as crimping or bulking
36
biomimetrics
fabrics that imitate nature
37
example of biomimetrics
fastskin by speedo - fabric for swimwear that acts like shark skin
38
the age of opulence
1900-1910
39
the health corset
invented by a french woman
| confined the waist even more than before
40
s-bend
edwardian + heavily corseted
41
t-shape silhouette
huge hats and slimmer and straighter dresses
| 1908 ish
42
Paul Poiret
1900-1910
| got rid of the corset
43
Boer war influence on fashion
1900-1910
| men wore their uniforms to social events
44
fashion of the flappers
cloche hats, bobbed hair, short skirts
45
handbags in 1900-1910
women didn't generally carry handbags
| small, decorative, hung on delicate straps from the wrist
46
influence of the suffragettes in 1900-1910
tailored jackets and trousers called a tailor-made as more practical and masculine
47
Role of women in 1900-1910
Role as ornaments
| Highly impractical dress style
48
Hobble skirts
1910-1920
| Narrow at hem so women could only take small steps
49
An influential designer for 1910-1920 decade and his influences
Poiret
| Art and design of the Middle East and India as seen with his Turkish skirt and harem skirt
50
Pneumonia blouse
1913
| V neck neckline - the doctors warned it was a danger to health
51
How did dancing affect fashion in 1910-1920? And what types of dance were most popular?
Tango dress
| Ragtime dance needed easy fitting dresses
52
Impact of WW1 on fashion
Skirts shorter
| A lot of women having to work so styles were more practical
53
Chanel in 1910-1920
In 1916 her simple tops, skirts, and chemise dresses were popular
54
ethical issues in fashion
```
body image
fur
cultures
consumption
environment
advertising
forgeries
sweatshops
inequality
blood diamonds
```
55
what does a colourist do
resourcing colours and producing mood boards
| producing colour stories for the future
56
product classification groups
furnishing textiles
industrial textiles
performance textiles
57
geotextiles
permeable membranes made mainly from synthetic fibres, used in contact with soil or rocks in the construction of roads etc
58
examples of japanese designers
rei kawakubo
issey miyake
yohji yamamoto
59
examples of textiles designers
zika ascher
bronwy bancroft
sigrun berg
60
examples of young and british designers
j w anderson
charli cohen
molly goddard
61
describe the fashion of the edwardian era (1900-1910)
great ostentation and extravagance
62
men's fashion 1900-1910
english gentlemen (correctly dressed)
kahki uniforms
uniforms for special occasions
63
influence of cinema and the russian ballet on fashion 1900-1910
interior decoration, jewellery, dress design more colourful
64
sports for women in 1900-1910
clothes more relaxed but by today's standards still highly unsuitable
65
women's hairstyles of the 1910s
```
dutch bob (short and straight)
titus cut (wavy and feathery)
```
66
effect of ready made clothes in england and america 1910-1920
class distinction through dress was not quite so blatant
67
teenage dressing in 1910s
girls: called flappers
boys: more casual, use of home knitting
68
men's fashion in 1910s
trench coat became popular by burberry's of london
69
how was cinema an important influence on women in 1910s
heavily outlined eyes
sophisticated
headbands
long cigarette holders
70
dance in 1910s
jazz
71
why were there egyptian influences in the roaring twenties
the excavations of tutankhamen's tomb
72
egyptian influences twenties
egyptian style motifs in embroidery on dresses, jackets, an coats
73
how high were the very short skirts of the twenties
5cm below the knee
74
new things in the twenties
cosmetics and sunbathing
75
garconne look
short, straight silhouette
| deliberately flatten breasts
76
chanel in the twenties
use of jersey fabrics
| little black dress
77
men's fashion of the twenties
exaggeratedly wide flapping trousers known as oxford bags
| literary and artistic figures eg cecil beaton had flamboyant style of dress that was not accepted
78
children's fashio in the twenties
miniature versions of the adult fashions , simpler and easy fitting
79
mass entertainment in the twenties
charleston dance - glitter embroidered bodices
| cinema where people copied the outfits
80
popular cruises in the thirties
swimwear - introduction of the 2 piece swimming costume
81
sportswear of the thirties
designed to cater for the functional needs of the sport rather than modifying basic day styles
82
foxes in the thirties
fur trimming was popular, pair of foxes worn as accessories
83
name an influential designer of the thirties and why they were innovative
schiaparelli - use of the zip fastener in haute couture
84
what was schiaparelli influenced by
surrealistic art eg by salvador dali
| as shown by shocking pink
85
cinema stars who were admired for their fashion in the thirties
greta garbo and marlene dietrich
86
children's clothes in the thirties
girl's outfits looked less like miniature versions of women's fashions - dresses cut like a long button through shirt were popular
87
men's fashion in the thirties
inspired by the filmstars and sportsmen in the mass media of the time i.e. athletic wide shouldered figure
88
what did balenciaga's silhouette look like in the thirties
hourglass figure, longer skirts
89
siren suits
all in one boiler suits worn by women and children in air raid shelters in ww2
90
impact of ww2 on fashion
clothes and fabrics were rationed from 1941 onwards so make do and mend
91
regulations on clothes in ww2
utility clothes (regulations introduced on the amount of material used and quality eg number of pockets)
92
cc41
clothing control 1941
| used in utility clothing
93
british couture designers in the forties who designed special ranges of utility clothes
norman hartnell and digby morton
94
american designers in the forties
american women needed practical clothes and their everyday outfits were based on interchangeable separates - idea began catching on in europe
95
where did special teenage fashions begin in the forties
usa
96
men's fashion in the forties
american fashions dominated
| wedge-shaped line: padded shoulders and wide straight trousers
97
demob suit
when men were demobilised at the end of ww2 they were given a poor quality civilian suit
98
dior's new look
1947
99
post war younger generation fashion
ww2
boys: casual t shirts
girls; either v full or v narrow skirts
100
young men's fashion in the forties
duffle coats and army surplus stuff
101
influence of cycling in young women's fashion in the forties
pedal pushers - trousers
102
swimwear in the forties
the first bikini appeared named after the atomic bomb test at bikini atoll
103
what did clothing manufactures focus on in the forties
the youth market
| made young looking inexpensive dresses for summer
104
when was nylon discovered and when was it used
discovered in 1929
| commercially available in 1940 - used for stockings
105
name two designers of the 50s and what their style was
dior and balenciaga
| ultra feminine styles and a semi-fitted look
106
basics of a woman's wardrobe in the 50s
tailored clothes - suit jackets and matching skirts
107
sheath dresses
50s, made of rayon, worn in the summer
108
shoes of the 50s
stiletto heeled shoes
109
evening dresses in the 50s
very full skirts to achieve victorian style silhouette
110
men's fashion in the 50s
slim ties, drainpipe trousers finished above the ankle
| called teddy boys
111
rock and roll stars of the 50s and their fashion
elvis, james dean
| leather jackets, tshirts, blue jeans
112
chanel in the 50s
classic suits and cardigan jackets
113
the sack
1957 easier fitting dress that was short in length
114
new synthetic fibres of the 50s
terylene, acrilan, bri-nylon, orlon
| lycra in 1959
115
trousers for women in the 50s
accepted as casual wear but not worn in offices or fancy restaurants
116
fashion of the anti establishment views held in the late 50s
beatnik - short tight skirts, flannel shirts, denim jeans, leather jackets
117
example of cult fashions in the 50s
yves saint laurent
118
Explain the popularity of the Chanel suit in the 1960s
Interchangeable separates but still formal
119
Explain the popularity of the shift dress of the 60s
Suited the arm and hip movements of the twist (dance craze) due to being sleeveless and unfitted line
120
Types of trouser style in the sixties
Hipster
| Bell bottom
121
The western look 1960s
A lot of denim basically
122
What were 1960s stretch trousers made from?
Wool and helanca or wool and bri-nylon to make them skin tight
123
Use of leather in the sixties
Kinky leather gear (basically using leather for everything)
124
Impact of PVC on the 60s
It was shiny and brightly coloured and less expensive and so the ‘wet-look’ became fashionable
125
Explain unisex fashions of the sixties
Trousers and shirts of the same fabrics and colours were worn by men and women
126
Impact of the Beatles on sixties fashion
Slim fitting, high fastening or collarless suits and jackets
127
André Courrèges’ autumn 1964 collection
Space exploration
| The mini skirt
128
Pierre Cardin’s designs in the sixties
Futuristic with clean architectural designs
129
Mary Quant in the 60s
Opened her first shop called bazaar in 1955
| Shortened skirt lengths and used vibrant colours and stripes
130
Reefer jackets
1960s
| Double breasted jackets in flannel and gabardine
131
Describe the boyish look of the 1960s
Simple tshirt dresses
Short hairstyles
Twiggy
132
Dolly look of the 1969s
Skinny ribs (ribbed pullovers in pastel colours)
Lace
Pale colours
133
Fashion photography in the 60s
In colour
| Models jumping and running to fit the mood of the swinging sixties
134
Popular fabrics of the sixties and why were they popular
Crimplene and trevira
| Easy care
135
Children’s clothes in the 1960s
Colourful
Knitted fabrics
Dungarees
136
Describe menswear in the sixties
Peacock revolution (bc colourful)
Unisex
Suits and jackets still based on Italian shapes of the 50s
Shirt collars were small
137
1960s: hippies and flower power, describe the look
Floor length kaftans
Beading
Flared
Loose fits
138
1960s: the romantic look, describe the look
Crushed velvet
| Frilly blouses
139
Zhivago coats (also called maxi coats)
1960s
| Lower calf and ankle length coats
140
When were midis introduced and why were they largely unsuccessful?
1969s
| Minis were still popular and new so people not ready to give them up
141
Sports clothing in the sixties
Skiing holidays not exclusively for the wealthy anymore
Anoraks used for everyday wear
Bikinis became smaller
142
What fashion item became popular in the seventies due to and increase in women’s self confidence
Hot pants
143
Shoes of the seventies
Platform soles
144
What did stylish young women wear in the seventies
Trousers suits
145
Popular styles of trouser suits in the seventies
Flares and bags
146
Fashion for men and women in the 70s
Unisex
147
Children’s clothes in the 70s
Children’s market growing in importance so parents spending more than previous generations
148
Young men’s fashion in the seventies
Large collared shirts
Wide kipper ties
Necklaces
149
Most universally worn garment of the 70s
Blue denim jeans
150
Styles of jeans in the 70s
Faded
| Ragged hem
151
Designer jeans in the 70s
Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, parry Ellis
152
T-shirts in the 70s
Had names, slogans, messages on them etc
153
Skinheads in the 70s
Bovver boots
Baggy trousers
Vest
154
The clothing market in the 70s
Highly competitive
Look for new ways to cut costs
Manufacturing in India and Far East
155
Laura Ashley in the seventies
Country style
Victorian prints
Ankle length skirts
Bodices
156
Film and pop music in the seventies
Stars exaggerated or endorsed trends rather than starting new ones
157
Middle East war 1973
Fuel prices rose
| People had less money to spend on clothes
158
Kenzo in the seventies
Ethnic look
| Nostalgia for the 20s
159
Layered look70s
Waistcoats and pullovers over long skirts with long capes or topcoats and long scarves with big boots
160
Boiler suit 70s
Girls wore these well fitting suits in a variety of fabrics for special occasions as well as every day practical clothing
161
Disco dancing 70s
Clothes allowed for more movement eg trousers
162
Trouser shapes in the 70s
Narrow
| Straight lines
163
The Sloane ranger
Princess Diana 70s
| Practical separates
164
Punk fashion70s
Bondage trousers
Sex pistols
Vivienne Westwood
165
Fiorucci 70s
Italian shop which sold punk clothing for the young
166
Active sports 70s
Both sexes took up jogging so practical clothes was required
167
Moon boots 70s
Modernistic shapes and fastenings
168
Missoni 70s
Italian knitwear brand with artistic combinations or yarns stitches and colours
169
Giorgio Armani 70s
Set new silhouettes for men’s wear
170
The importance of the logo in the 80s
Money obsessed and image conscious
Competitive group of people
Called yuppies
171
Armani in The eighties
Known for his menswear
172
Influence of Margret thatcher in the eighties
Power suit for women
173
Describe three of Vivienne Westwood’s eighties collections
Her collection ‘pirate’: Asymmetrical tshirts, breeches, big boots
Her collection ‘buffalo’: underwear as outerwear
Her ‘mini-crini’ collection: club dance wear
174
Moschino style in the eighties
Influenced by surrealists
| Tshirts with slogans like ‘for fashion victims’
175
Katherine hamnett
80s
| ‘Choose life’ collection included tshirts like ‘58% don’t want Pershing’
176
Who was an Important influence on menswear in the eighties
Paul Smith
177
Princess Diana in the eighties
Wedding dress
178
Japanese designers in the eighties
Miyake, Yamamoto, kawakubo
179
Jean Paul gaultier 80s
Madonna’s conical cups
| French designs
180
American designers in the eighties
```
Donna Karen (big city sophistication)
Norma kamali (cotton fleece tracksuit)
```
181
what decade of fashion involved dressing down?
1990-2000
| dress down fridays
182
grunge look definition and designers
1990
mix of punk and hippie styles
marc jacobs and anna sui
183
rap influence 1990s
hip hop styles
| casual layered sportswear
184
street style in the 1990s
vans, nike air jordans, timberland boots, adidas, puma
185
important accessory in the 90s
handbags
186
name a unisex style in the 90s
layering and grundge
187
supermodels of the 90s
naomi cambell
claudia schiffer
featured in advertisements for versace jeans which became popular because of their involvement
188
designers of the 90s that took inspiration from china and japan
alexander mcqueen, john gallioano, valentino, issey miyake
189
antifashion attitude 90s
minimalistic
| rifat ozbek
190
sportswear style 90s
comfortable stretch fabrics and trainers
191
alexander mcqueen in the 90s
highland rape collection 1995-96 tartans, chains, rips
192
vivienne westwood in the 90s
historical designs which started the trend of handcrafted and traditional textiles
193
katherine hamnett
endorsed environmentally friendly fabrics in the 90s
194
characteristics of eco fashion in the 90s
natural fibres, hemp, birkenstock sandals, leather substitute
195
lucy orta
refugee wear 1992 including sleeping bags and tents
196
cyber fashions 1990s
science fiction, virtual reality, punk, rubber, pvc, and leather
197
deconstruction style
antwerp six and ann demeulemeester
