Waves Flashcards

1
Q

wavelength

A

distance between crests

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2
Q

wave period

A

time it takes to pass point

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3
Q

what classes waves

A

wave period

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4
Q

smallest/largest wave

A

capillary, tsunami

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5
Q

can you have deep waves in shallow water

A

yes

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6
Q

what are tide waves

A

shallow

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7
Q

what are tsunami waves

A

shallow

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8
Q

waves controlled by

A

wind (longer wind bigger waves), fetch (distance of wind blowing in same direction), wind velocity

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9
Q

fully developed sea

A

when wind duration/fetch is long enough, where waves wont get any bigger

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10
Q

as wind speed increases…

A

height/wavelength/period increase

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11
Q

significant wave height

A

height of highest third of all waves, used to predict danger to infrastructure

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12
Q

progressive

A

movement of energy not water

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13
Q

what motion does water molecule move as wave moves forward

A

orbital

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14
Q

diameter of orbit

A

increases with wave size, decreases with depth

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15
Q

wave base

A

depth that surface can move water

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16
Q

deep water orbits

17
Q

shallow water orbits

A

elliptical

18
Q

deep water wave

A

doesnt touch bed, higher than 112.32m

19
Q

intermediate wave

A

depth between 11.2 m and 112.32m

20
Q

shallow wave

A

interact with bed, less than 11.2m

21
Q

celerity

A

velocity of wave

22
Q

celerity equation

A

wavelength/perod

23
Q

where do waves begin

A

fetch then continue to fully developed sea or when limited by fetch/wind duration

24
Q

wave interference

A

interaction of waves when they pass through each other, constructive/destructive

25
breaking waves
spilling waves (flat bottom), plunging (steep bottom), surging (very steep)
26
what never changes
wave period
27
waves in low energy environment
shallow waves
28
standing waves/seiches
water moves back and forth
29
node
no change in elevation
30
antinode
maximum displacement
31
what controls standing wave
basin geometry
32
resonance
increases displacement at nodes
33
internal waves
underwater waves
34
tsunami
long period, high wavelength, high speed