A2 - Paper 3 - Coastal Environments Flashcards
(19 cards)
What factors influence wave energy?
Wind speed, duration, and fetch (the distance over which the wind blows).
Define wave refraction
The bending of waves as they approach an irregular coastline, concentrating energy on headlands and dispersing it in bays.
Differentiate between constructive and destructive waves.
Constructive waves have a strong swash and weak backwash, building up beaches; destructive waves have a weak swash and strong backwash, eroding beaches
What is the swash and backwash?
Swash is the movement of water up the beach after a wave breaks; backwash is the water returning down the beach due to gravity.
Define longshore drift.
The transportation of sediment along the coast by wave action, moving material in a zigzag pattern
How are headlands and bays formed?
Through differential erosion, where softer rock erodes faster than harder rock, creating bays and leaving headlands protruding.
Describe the formation of a wave-cut platform.
Erosion at the base of a cliff creates a wave-cut notch; over time, the cliff collapses and retreats, leaving a flat platform at its base.
What is a spit and how does it form?
A spit is an extended stretch of beach material that projects out to sea and is joined to the mainland at one end, formed by longshore drift.
Define a tombolo.
A tombolo is a sand or shingle bar that connects an island to the mainland or another island, formed by deposition.
How are sand dunes formed?
Sand dunes are formed by the accumulation of sand blown inland from the beach, stabilized by vegetation over time.
What conditions are necessary for coral reef development?
Warm water temperatures (23–25°C), clear and shallow waters, sunlight, and saline conditions.
Differentiate between fringing, barrier, and atoll reefs.
Fringing reefs are directly attached to a shore; barrier reefs are separated from the shore by a lagoon; atolls are ring-shaped reefs surrounding a lagoon, often formed around sunken islands.
What are the main threats to coral reefs?
Climate change (leading to coral bleaching), ocean acidification, pollution, overfishing, and destructive fishing practices.
How can coral reefs be protected?
Through marine protected areas, sustainable fishing regulations, pollution control, and reef restoration projects.
What is hard engineering in coastal management?
The use of artificial structures like sea walls, groynes, and breakwaters to protect the coast from erosion and flooding.
What is soft engineering in coastal management?
The use of natural processes and materials, such as beach nourishment and dune regeneration, to manage coastal erosion sustainably.
What is managed retreat?
Allowing certain areas of the coast to erode and flood naturally, often to create new habitats and reduce pressure on other areas.
Why is sustainable coastal management important?
To balance environmental conservation with human needs, ensuring long-term protection of coastal areas against erosion and sea-level rise.
Provide an example of a sustainable coastal management strategy.
The use of beach nourishment in areas like Bournemouth, UK, where sand is added to the beach to combat erosion while maintaining natural aesthetics.
