Belay

Question 1

What is belaying?

Answer 1

A method used by QFR to control rescuers and/or rescue loads up and down the vertical plane.

Question 2

What type of system does QFR use for belaying?

Answer 2

A two-rope system to provide redundancy.

Question 3

What are the three main belay systems and methods used by QFR?

Answer 3

• Main and true belay
• Twin tension belay
• ASAP top belay

Question 4

Describe the main line in the main and true belay system.

Answer 4

The primary line that is connected to the rescue load, continuously under tension, supports 100% of the load, and is controlled through a belay device.

Question 5

What is the purpose of the safety line in the main and true belay system?

Answer 5

It serves as redundancy or backup for the system in the event of a main line failure.

Question 6

When should the true belay system be used?

Answer 6

• When the LRL is exposed to sharp edges or rub points
• When there is a chance of falling objects on the lines
• When loading both systems is difficult

Question 7

What is the twin tension system?

Answer 7

A two-rope system where both lines are independent, under tension, and share a common rescue load.

Question 8

List the advantages of the twin tension system.

Answer 8

• Reduces individual anchor loads
• Reduces initial stretch if one system fails
• Simplifies operations
• Provides redundancy if one system fails

Question 9

What equipment is required for ASAP true belay?

Answer 9

• ASAP with AXESS lanyard
• Extra carabiner
• Descender with its own carabiner
• Sling/tape for anchor
• AZTEK with two carabiners
• Rope grab/hand ascender or Prusik loop

Question 10

What are the operating requirements for ASAP true belay?

Answer 10

• Check for three meters of clear space
• Ensure required equipment is available
• Attach ASAP to the anchor
• Function test the ASAP
• Manage tail of the rope correctly

Question 11

What must be avoided when using ASAP true belay?

Answer 11

• Long lowers over 50 meters
• Loads greater than 250kg
• Obstructions on activation

Question 12

What is the procedure for recovering the rescue load off an ASAP in the event of main line failure?

Answer 12

• Connect an auto-stop device to the anchor
• Haul in slack and lock off securely
• Connect a progress-capturing MA system
• Unlock and remove the ASAP
• Lower the rescue load

Question 13

What is a knot by-pass?

Answer 13

A method required when joining two lines or isolating a suspect section of line using an Alpine Butterfly.

Question 14

What is the first step for a true belay safety line knot by-pass?

Answer 14

Lock off the main line.

Question 15

When is the main line twin tension method used?

Answer 15

When there is no requirement for the main line to remain under tension.

Question 16

What is the most appropriate method to connect an AZTEK to the main line?

Answer 16

• Rit Prusik hitch
• Nylon Prusik hitch
• Mechanical connection

Question 17

True or False: The ASAP can be released under load.

Answer 17

False

Question 18

What should be done after completing a knot by-pass?

Answer 18

You can either manage the system as is or restore the lines’ roles to their initial state.

Question 19

What knot should be tied into the main line when bypassing a knot?

Answer 19

Figure 8 knot

The figure 8 knot should be tied behind the knot being bypassed.

Question 20

How much line should be allowed to reeve your belay device behind the knot?

Answer 20

Approximately 1m

This length is necessary to ensure proper functioning of the belay device.

Question 21

What is the fnext step after backing up the main line at the anchor with a figure 8 knot? For a knot bypass in the main

Answer 21

Unreeve the device

After unreeving, the device should be re-reeved with the knot being bypassed in front.

Question 22

What should be done with the AZTEK during the rescue load operation?

Answer 22

Release the AZTEK

This allows the main line belay device to take up the rescue load.

Question 23

What is the first step if you do not have access to an AZTEK?

Answer 23

Connect a second belay device to the anchor

This method allows for a knot bypass on the main line.

Question 24

What should be done after tying a figure 8 knot into the main line when using a second belay device?

Answer 24

Take the rescue load up on the second belay device

This supports the load while performing the knot bypass.

Question 25

What is a critical warning when hauling a knot bypass through a Z-rig?

Answer 25

Do not haul a knot bypass through a Z-rig ## Footnote Always use a bolt-on system instead.

Question 26

In a haul with twin tension, what should be done to transfer the knot?

Answer 26

Haul the system up until there is enough slack line in front of the knot ## Footnote This allows the knot to be transferred to the tail of the belay device.

Question 27

What should be done after transferring all the weight onto the second line?

Answer 27

Back up the system with a figure 8 knot at the anchor ## Footnote This provides additional security during the haul operation.

Question 28

What is the minimum distance to attach a bolt-on with progress capture in a true belay system?

Answer 28

A minimum of 1m in front of the knot ## Footnote This distance is crucial for effective load capture.

Question 29

What should be done once the LRL with the knot is slack during a true belay system haul?

Answer 29

Back up with a figure 8 knot at the anchor ## Footnote This ensures safety before unreeving the device.

Question 30

What should be done after unreeving the device in a true belay system?

Answer 30

Re-reeve the device with the knot on the tail end of the belay device ## Footnote This allows the system to continue functioning properly.