Coastal Hazards - Coastal Processes

Question 1

The periodic rise and fall of sea level is known as

Answer 1

ocean tides

Question 2

ocean tides are caused by

Answer 2

spinning motion of the Earth, combined with the gravitational interaction between the Earth, Moon, and Sun

Question 3

refers to the difference in sea level between high
and low tides.

Answer 3

Tidal range

Question 4

occurs when the Moon and Sun periodically line
up such that their gravitational effects reinforce one another

Answer 4

Spring tide

Question 5

occurs when the gravitational pull of the Moon and
Sun are at right angles which tend to cancel their tidal effects on one another.

Answer 5

Neap tide

Question 6

t or f: Earth’s oceans bulge outward because of forces created by the planet’s spinning motion
and gravitational interaction with the Moon and Sun.

Answer 6

t

Question 7

t or f: the Moon has a greater tidal influence than the sun

Answer 7

t

Question 8

these form as the surface of the Earth rotates in and out of the bulges within the oceans

Answer 8

ocean tides

Question 9

also called the maximum tides

Answer 9

spring tides

Question 10

three main tidal patterns:

Answer 10

diurnal, semidiurnal, mixed tidal pattern

Question 11

diurnal means

Answer 11

daily

Question 12

Characterized by a single high tide and single low tide each tidal day

Answer 12

diurnal

Question 13

exhibits single two high tides and two low tides each tidal day

Answer 13

semidiurnal

Question 14

semidiurnal tidal pattern is common along __________

Answer 14

Atlantic Coast of the United States

Question 15

Similar to semidiurnal pattern except that it is characterized by a large inequality in high water heights, low water heights, or both.

Answer 15

mixed tidal pattern

Question 16

in this tidal pattern, there are usually two high and two low tides each day, with high tides of different heights and low tides of different heights

Answer 16

mixed tidal pattern

Question 17

mixed tidal pattern is prevalent along

Answer 17

prevalent along the Pacific coast of the United States and in many other parts of the world

Question 18

on what phases of the moon does spring tide occur?

Answer 18

full moon and new moon

Question 19

on what phases of the moon does neap tide occur?

Answer 19

first quarter and third quarter

Question 20

are strong localized currents during high tide formed
by the surface of the sea sloping towards the shore which generates mechanical energy that forces water to funnel up into inlets and river channels.

Answer 20

Tidal currents

Question 21

tidal currents generate __________ that forces water to funnel up into ________ and ________

Answer 21

mechanical energy ; inlets and river channels

Question 22

tidal currents are formed by the surface of the sea ____________ the shore

Answer 22

sloping towards

Question 23

involve the physical movement of water molecules
from one location to another, are driven by various forms of energy

Answer 23

ocean currents

Question 24

currents flow from an area of _________ to ________

Answer 24

high energy to lower energy

Question 25

are large scale currents in the open water near the surface of the sea which are driven mainly by winds blowing consistently in the same direction.

Answer 25

surface currents

Question 26

surface currents are driven mainly by

Answer 26

winds blowing consistently in the same direction

Question 27

are formed in response to differences in ocean temperature and salinity

Answer 27

density currents

Question 28

Cooler and more saline water is relatively ________ which causes it to ______ and _______ toward areas where water is _________.

Answer 28

dense ; sink and flow; less dense

Question 29

t or f: cooler water is denser

Answer 29

T

Question 30

t or f: saline water is less dense

Answer 30

F (denser)

Question 31

the movement of water from one location to another

Answer 31

currents

Question 32

transport energy through water such that water molecules move or vibrate in a circular manner.

Answer 32

water waves

Question 33

Water waves transport energy in a ________ manner, but the___________ of water molecules causes physical objects to move in a ______ manner.

Answer 33

horizontal manner ; circular motion ; vertical manner

Question 34

t or f: water waves transport energy in a horizontal manner

Answer 34

t

Question 35

is the depth where water molecules are no longer affected by the passing wave

Answer 35

wave base

Question 36

wave base is equal to

Answer 36

one half of the wave’s wavelength

Question 37

distance between successive crests of a wave

Answer 37

wavelength

Question 38

contact area between the wind and water

Answer 38

fetch

Question 39

The energy of wind generated waves is also affected by

Answer 39

1. fetch 2. duration of the wind

Question 40

factors that determine the size and energy of waves

Answer 40

wind energy, duration of wind, fetch

Question 41

the faster the wind speed, the ________ the wave energy

Answer 41

greater

Question 42

the longer the wind blows, the _________ the waves

Answer 42

larger

Question 43

the greater the fetch, the ____________ the wave has

Answer 43

the more energy the wave has

Question 44

the circular motion of water molecule in a wave gets progressively __________ with depth

Answer 44

smaller

Question 45

the level at which all movement stops

Answer 45

wave base

Question 46

t or f: wave base get deeper with increasing wave energy

Answer 46

t

Question 47

water from a breaker washing upon a beach at whatever angle the breaker approached shore.

Answer 47

swash

Question 48

swash water retreating back under the influence of gravity

Answer 48

backswash

Question 49

t or f: Backwash takes the shortest path, direct to the sea, not an oblique angle as taken by swash.

Answer 49

t

Question 50

t or f: backswash takes a path with an oblique angle

Answer 50

F (swash)

Question 51

what are the two types of waves

Answer 51

constructive and destructive waves

Question 52

this type of wave has stronger swash and weaker backwash, occurs on gentle sloping coasts, and deposits materials on the beach more than it removes.

Answer 52

constructive waves

Question 53

this type of wave has stronger backwash and weaker swash, occurs on steep sloping coasts, and removes (erodes) materials on the beach more than it deposits.

Answer 53

destructive waves

Question 54

destructive waves occurs on _______ slopes ; constructive waves occur on _________

Answer 54

steep ; gentle

Question 55

low waves in proportion to length

Answer 55

constructive wave

Question 56

high waves in proportion to length

Answer 56

destructive waves

Question 57

As the wave continues toward shore, this causes a progressive _________ in velocity along the ______ of the wave, forcing it to bend in a process called ________

Answer 57

decrease ; length ; wave refraction

Question 58

____________ is a wave whose amplitude reaches a _________ at which some process can suddenly start that causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into _______________

Answer 58

breaking wave ; critical level ; turbulent kinetic energy

Question 59

refers to the area where the waves break

Answer 59

surf zone

Question 60

is an ocean current that flows parallel to the shore and is caused by large swells (series of waves) sweeping into the shoreline at an angle and pushing down the length of the beach in one direction.

Answer 60

longshore current

Question 61

a series of mechanical waves that propagate along the interface between water and air under the predominating influence of gravity

Answer 61

swells

Question 62

is the process of transporting material along a coast by waves which approach at an angle to the shore but recede perpendicular from it.

Answer 62

longshore drift or beach drift

Question 63

longshore drift approach ________ to the shore but recede ________ from it

Answer 63

at ang angle ; perpendicular

Question 64

t or f: friction causes waves to slow down

Answer 64

t

Question 65

less friction slows down waves, this in turn causes __________ to _______ as the waves grow in height and become ___________, eventually waves become so _____ they fall on themselves and form breaking waves

Answer 65

wavelength ; decrease ; less asymmetric ; asymmetric

Question 66

wavelength ________ and wave height __________ as waves get closer to the shore

Answer 66

decreases ; increases

Question 67

as a wave approaches the land, the end closest to the shore encounters the seafloor first, forcing it to slow down while the other end travels at its original speed. this velocity difference results in _________ or _________ toward the shore

Answer 67

wave bending or refracting

Question 68

Breaking waves push water up the beach, creating a _______ path as the water flows back into the surf zone

Answer 68

zigzagging

Question 69

longshore current moves both water and sediment ________ to shore

Answer 69

parallel

Question 70

can travel farther inland than the normal waves, this is due to the increased local sea level during storm events.

Answer 70

storm surges

Question 71

t or f: Storms have the effect of not only generating waves but also increasing the height of the localized sea level

Answer 71

t

Question 72

Large waves caused by the sudden mid/under sea displace of a large volume of water

Answer 72

tsunamis

Question 73

tsunamis are caused by:

Answer 73

coastal landslides mid-sea volcanic eruptions calving meteorite impacts

Question 74

the glaciological term for the mechanical loss (or simply, breaking off) of ice from a glacier margin

Answer 74

calving