Coasts EQ2 Flashcards

(79 cards)

1
Q

how is a wave formed

A

formed by wind blowing over the sea causing friction on the surface of the water. This causes ripples, if they are sustained the particle motion moves in an orbital way

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
2
Q

what are some factors affecting wave size

A

strength of wind
duration of wind
depth of water
fetch of waves

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
3
Q

does destructive wave have a strong or weak swash

A

weak

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
4
Q

does destructive wave have a strong or weak backwash

A

strong

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
5
Q

does constructive wave have a strong or weak swash

A

strong

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
6
Q

does constructive wave have a strong or weak backwash

A

weak

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
7
Q

what is the frequency of destructive waves like

A

high frequency 10-14 per minute

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
8
Q

what is the frequency of constructive waves like

A

low frequency 8-10 per minute

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
9
Q

how far does a destructive wave travel up the beach

A

wave plunges onto a steep beach, energy is forced downwards so does not travel far

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
10
Q

what is the height like of a destructive wave

A

over 1 meter

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
11
Q

how far does a constructive wave travel up the beach

A

water spreads a long way up gently sloping beach

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
12
Q

what is the height like of a constructive wave

A

low wave height under 1 meter

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
13
Q

what is beach morphology

A

refers to the shape, structure and composition of the beach

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
14
Q

why is wave type important to beach morphology

A

-type of sediment deposited or eroded
-wave conditions can create or modify landforms
-remove debris from cliff foot, removing erosion protection

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
15
Q

what are 4 types of erosional landforms

A

headlands, bays, sea stack, wave cut platform

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
16
Q

what are 4 types of depositional landforms

A

spit, bar, tombolo, cuspate foreland

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
17
Q

headland and bay diagram

A
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
18
Q

where do headlands and bays form

A

on a discordant coastline as it has alternating bands of more and less resistant rock

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
19
Q

how are headlands and bays formed

A

Hydraulic action and abrasion marine processes erode the less resistant rock at a faster rate. This rock is also eroded faster because at a discordant coastline they also have destructive waves. The less resistant rock retreats to form bays and the more resistant rock left protruding out to sea as headlands

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
20
Q

sea stack diagram

A
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
21
Q

what landforms is a sea stack made of

A

caves, arches, stacks and stumps

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
22
Q

where are sea stacks formed

A

at a discordant coastline on a headland

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
23
Q

how are sea stacks formed

A

starts with a weakness or fault in the rock caused by tectonic movement. This is then eroded by marine processes of HA and abrasion until it grows to form a cave. Further erosion causes the cave to erode and become an arch. Then as the roof of the arch is unsupported it collapses and leaves a stack. The base of the stack gets eroded to form a wave cut notch with causes the stack to collapse and leave a stump

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
24
Q

wave cut platform diagram

A
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
25
how are wave cut platforms formed
at the base of the cliff marine processes erode the base until a wave cut notch forms. then the overhang of the cliff gets eroded by sub-aerial processes (weathering) and collapses. This causes a wave cut platform to be left behind and cliff recession.
26
what is a sediment cell
a stretch of coastline that is a closed system where sediment sand and shingle is self-contained
27
why is it unlikely that sediment cells are completely closed systems
variations in wind speeds, presence of tidal currents so some sediment will be transferred to neighbouring cells
28
what is dynamic equillibrium
when the outputs are the same as the inputs
29
what are the 3 types of weathering
mechanical chemical biological
30
where is a spit formed
where there is a sudden change in direction of the coastline
31
what processes occur in chemical weathering
carbonation hydrolysis oxidation
32
what processes occur in biological weathering
plant roots rock boring
33
what is freeze thaw weathering (mechanical)
water expands (by 9%) when frozen which can exert a force and crack rock. then the ice thaws which loosens the rocks and the process repeats
34
what is salt crystalisation weathering (mechanical)
the growth of salt crystals in cracks and pore spaces can exert a force that can break the rock, but less than freeze thaw
35
what is carbonation weathering (chemical)
dissolved calcium carbonate in rainfall reacts with rocks such as limestone to produce bicarbonate acid which is soluble and gets carried away by the water, breaking down the rock
36
what is hydrolysis weathering (chemical)
the breakdown of minerals to form new clay minerals in solution due to the effect of water and dissolved CO2
37
what is oxidation weathering (chemical)
the addition of oxygen to minerals produces oxides and increases their volume which contributes to mechanical weathering
38
what is plant root weathering (biological)
trees and plant roots grow in cracks and fissures forcing the rocks apart
39
what is rock boring weathering (biological)
many species of clams bore into rock and may also secrete chemicals and dissolve rocks
40
what type of rocks are vulnerable to freeze thaw (mechanical) weathering
any rocks with cracks and fissures, especially in high up cliffs away from salty sea spray
41
what type of rocks are vulnerable to salt crystalisation (mechanical) weathering
porous and fractured rocks. The effect is greater in hotter drier countries where evaporation can happen faster
42
what type of rocks are vulnerable to carbonation (chemical) weathering
limestone and other carbonate rocks
43
what type of rocks are vulnerable to hydrolysis (chemical) weathering
igneous and metamorphic rocks containing feldspar and other silicate materials
44
what type of rocks are vulnerable to oxidation (chemical) weathering
sandstones, siltstones, shales often contain iron that can be oxidised
45
what type of rocks are vulnerable to plant root (biological) weathering
any rocks with cracks and fissures that plants can get into
46
what processes occur in mechanical weathering
freeze-thaw salt crystalisation
47
what is the dominant cause of cliff collapse
mass movement
48
why is mass movement at the coast very common
the constant undercutting of the cliffs make them prone to collapse and the sheer weight of the rainwater with the weak geology
49
what are the 6 mass movement types
fall rotational slide slumping topple translational slide flow
50
what is the mass movement type: fall
rock falls freely from a cliff or steep slope due to gravity
51
what is the mass movement type: rotational slide
a section of land moves downward along a curved slip plane
52
what is the mass movement type: slumping
a section of land moves downward along a curved slip plane often due to saturation weakening the material
53
what is the mass movement type: topple
a block of rock or soil rotates forward and falls due to gravity involving a pivoting motion
54
what is the mass movement type: translational slide
where material moves downward along a flat slip surface
55
what is the mass movement type: flow
material moves downward in a fluid-like manner often due to saturation of the material
56
what are 3 mass movement landforms
rotational scars talus scree slopes terraced cliff profiles
57
what is a rotational scar
a fresh, curved, unweathered rock surface tat is exposed after rotational sliding
58
what is talus scree slopes
the accumulation of broken rock fragments at the base of steep cliffs or slopes
59
what is terraced cliff profiles
caused by rotational slide and slumping, multiple slumps cause step like terraces
60
rotational scar diagram
61
talus scree slope diagram
62
what type of rocks are vulnerable to rock boring (biological) weathering
sedimentary rocks, especially carbonate rocks located in the inter-tidal range
63
terraced cliff profile diagram
64
spit diagram
65
how is a spit formed
sand extending beyond a turn in the coastline usually greater than 30. at the turn the longshore drift current spreads out and looses energy leading to deposition
66
why does a spit become curved
curves landward due to waves from a secondary direction to the prevailing wind
67
how is a spit stablised
vegetation succession and ecosystems forming in the salt marsh behind the spit
68
what determines the length of a spit
the existence of secondary currents cause erosion
69
bar diagram
70
how is a bar formed
a sand or shingle beach connecting two areas of land with a shallow lagoon behind. These features occur when a spit grows so long that it extends across a bay closing it off
71
tombolo diagram
72
how is a tombolo formed
form due to wave refraction around an offshore island which creates an area of calm water and deposition between the island and the coast
73
what is a tombolo
a sand or shingle bar that attaches the coastline to an offshore island
74
what is a UK example of a spit
spurn head on Holderness coast
75
what is a UK example of a bar
chesil beach, Dorset
76
what is a UK example of a tombolo
St Ninians tombolo, shetland
77
what is a UK example of a cuspate foreland
Dungeness, Kent
78
how is a cuspate foreland formed
the growth of 2 spits from opposite longshore drift directions and they connect to form a triangular shaped feature extending out from a shoreline
79
cuspate foreland diagram