Coasts EQ2 Flashcards
(79 cards)
how is a wave formed
formed by wind blowing over the sea causing friction on the surface of the water. This causes ripples, if they are sustained the particle motion moves in an orbital way
what are some factors affecting wave size
strength of wind
duration of wind
depth of water
fetch of waves
does destructive wave have a strong or weak swash
weak
does destructive wave have a strong or weak backwash
strong
does constructive wave have a strong or weak swash
strong
does constructive wave have a strong or weak backwash
weak
what is the frequency of destructive waves like
high frequency 10-14 per minute
what is the frequency of constructive waves like
low frequency 8-10 per minute
how far does a destructive wave travel up the beach
wave plunges onto a steep beach, energy is forced downwards so does not travel far
what is the height like of a destructive wave
over 1 meter
how far does a constructive wave travel up the beach
water spreads a long way up gently sloping beach
what is the height like of a constructive wave
low wave height under 1 meter
what is beach morphology
refers to the shape, structure and composition of the beach
why is wave type important to beach morphology
-type of sediment deposited or eroded
-wave conditions can create or modify landforms
-remove debris from cliff foot, removing erosion protection
what are 4 types of erosional landforms
headlands, bays, sea stack, wave cut platform
what are 4 types of depositional landforms
spit, bar, tombolo, cuspate foreland
headland and bay diagram
where do headlands and bays form
on a discordant coastline as it has alternating bands of more and less resistant rock
how are headlands and bays formed
Hydraulic action and abrasion marine processes erode the less resistant rock at a faster rate. This rock is also eroded faster because at a discordant coastline they also have destructive waves. The less resistant rock retreats to form bays and the more resistant rock left protruding out to sea as headlands
sea stack diagram
what landforms is a sea stack made of
caves, arches, stacks and stumps
where are sea stacks formed
at a discordant coastline on a headland
how are sea stacks formed
starts with a weakness or fault in the rock caused by tectonic movement. This is then eroded by marine processes of HA and abrasion until it grows to form a cave. Further erosion causes the cave to erode and become an arch. Then as the roof of the arch is unsupported it collapses and leaves a stack. The base of the stack gets eroded to form a wave cut notch with causes the stack to collapse and leave a stump
wave cut platform diagram