coasts general

Question 1

what is a sediment cell

Answer 1

nearshore closed systems that are self contained- seperated by significant disruptions in the coastline

Question 2

how many sediment cells in england

Answer 2

11

Question 3

what inputs of sediment are there

Answer 3

wind erosion rivers

Question 4

outputs of sediment cells

Answer 4

long shored rift or offshore deopsition

Question 5

whats a positive sediment budget cell

Answer 5

more sediment in than out

Question 6

characteristics of constructive waves

5 things

Answer 6

low wave height 
long wave length 
strong swash 
weak backwash 
depositional

Question 7

what happens to profile of beach for constructive waves

Answer 7

starts out gentle but becomes steeper over time

Question 8

destructive wave characterstics

Answer 8

high wave height 
short wavelength 
erosional 
weak swash 
strong backwash

Question 9

becah profile for destructive waves

Answer 9

steep sea bed and then waves hollow out beach

Question 10

example of high energy coast

Answer 10

holderness coastline

Question 11

characteristics of high energy coast

Answer 11

strong winds
long fetch
erosional landform
steep offshore

Question 12

characteristics of low energy coast

Answer 12

short fetch
little wind
gentle offshore
depositional

Question 13

example of low energy coast line

Answer 13

severn estuary

Question 14

how is wind created

Answer 14

air moving from areas of high pressure to areas of low presssure

Question 15

what is wave energy affected by

3things

Answer 15

wind strength
fetch
wind duration

Question 16

how does wave form

Answer 16

wind blows across water surface - friction causes ripples and then waves

Question 17

what happens when waves approach beach

Answer 17

water approaches beach- shallow water slows down bottoms of the wave causing circular orbit to become elliptical = horizontal movement as wave breaks onto beach

Question 18

what are tides

Answer 18

rise and fall of water caused by gravitational pull by sun and moon

Question 19

what happens when sun and moon are alligned

Answer 19

spring tide

Question 20

whats a current

Answer 20

general flow of water in one direction

Question 21

whats weathering

Answer 21

break down of roack due to exposure in the atmosphere in situ

Question 22

examples of weathering

Answer 22

mechanical
biological
chemical

Question 23

what is chemical weathing

Answer 23

Chemical weathering is when the molecular structure of rocks and soils are changed, therefore becoming weaker and eroding away.

Question 24

what is mechanical weathing

Answer 24

Mechanical weathering is the breakdown of rock without changing its chemical composition.

Question 25

what is biological weathering

Answer 25

Biological weathering is the weakening and wearing away of rock by plants, animals and microbes.

Question 26

examples of biologial weathering

Answer 26

roots from plants

Question 27

examples of mechanical weathering

Answer 27

freeze thaw weathering | salt crystalisation

Question 28

examples of chemical weathering

Answer 28

acid rain rusting

Question 29

what is erosion

Answer 29

wearing away of rock on coastline

Question 30

factors that affect erosion | 7 things

Answer 30

``` wave steepness breaking point of wave slope of sea bed shape of coast sediment supply rock type of coastlne width of beach ```

Question 31

what is a beach cusps

Answer 31

temporary feature that are semi circular depressions that channels swash into centre of hollow with strong back wash deepening hollows

Question 32

whats a rip current

Answer 32

strong localised underwater current, build up of water at top of beach due to consistent plunging waves forcing backwahs underwater

Question 33

whats a berm

Answer 33

smaller ridges that form at high tide mark form deposition at top of swash

Question 34

storm beach

Answer 34

strong swash in storm picks up material and deposits it higher up

Question 35

ridges and runnels

Answer 35

spreading out of waves energy energy over a large wide shallow beach

Question 36

factors that affect beach profile

Answer 36

wave type particle size wave energy

Question 37

where do spits occur

Answer 37

occur at changes in coastlne direction where theres LSD

Question 38

what are spits

Answer 38

narrow accumulations of sand with one end attached to the mainland and other end extending out to sea

Question 39

whats at the lee of the spit

Answer 39

heavy material

Question 40

what cuases hooks

Answer 40

changes in wind direction - secondary winds

Question 41

whats a bar

Answer 41

spit extends across bay to join two headlands - lagoon created

Question 42

barrier island similar to offhsore bar

Answer 42

off shore deposition parallel to the coastline with tips and ridges exposed

Question 43

whats a tombolo

Answer 43

spit extends from mainland to island by LSD | island shelters and protects beach

Question 44

how is sand moved usually

Answer 44

by saltation

Question 45

what is saltation affected by

Answer 45

wind speed grain size and dampness

Question 46

what do sand dunes need

Answer 46

``` supply of sand gentle beach profile large tidal range net deposition prevailing on shore winds vegetation and obstacles to limit movement ```

Question 47

what are the seral stages

Answer 47

embryo - fore - yellow - grey - mature (woodland)

Question 48

what is plant succesion

Answer 48

plant development with time and direction

Question 49

what pioneer species are there

Answer 49

sea rocket and couch grass

Question 50

why are the pioneer species suitable

Answer 50

they can cope with very dry salty exposed conditions

Question 51

what is typical species found at fore dunes and how are they adapted

Answer 51

marram grass with long roots to seek water

Question 52

how do conditions change from embryo to mature dune

Answer 52

``` salinity decreases nutrients increase shelter increases organic content increases freshwater increases age increases ```