Tuscany Flashcards
(141 cards)
Tuscany
Vineyards planted at altitude on slopes, excellent sun exposure and wide diurnal temperature range: grapes keep high natural acidity and develops fruity aromas. Maritime sites ideal for Bordeaux varieties. Chianti Consorzio represents growers in all zones except Classico. Significant changes in 2002. Upper limit of international varieties in blend from 10 to 15% in Chianti and up to 20% in the sub zones, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot restricted to 10%. Classico zone limits raised to 20% with no limits on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. White grapes are to be phased out of the blend. Emergency irrigation also given permission in classico.
Chianti DOCG
Quality varies from basic through to super premium. Sangiovese the dominant variety in a blend, or on its own. Gives high acidity and tannins, medium body and sour cherry and earthy flavours. Other permitted varieties are Canaiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Oak ageing in large casks called botti or more recently in barriques. Riserva wines 3 years ageing. 7 sub zones, Chianti Rufina (small, cool zone north east of Florence) produces high quality, full bodied wines with high acidity.
Chianti Classico DOCG
Seperate DOCG from Chianti. Heartland of the Chianti region, between Florence and Siena. Hill sites varied soils, produces the finest most age worthy Chianti.
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
Varietal Brunello (clone of Sangiovese), excellent quality and long lived, needs considerable bottle ageing. Produced near the town of Montalcino, south of Siena. Wine must be four years old before release, aged at least two years in cask before bottling.
Vino Noble di Montepulciano DOCG
First DOCG classified, must be made from Prugnolo (Clone of Sangiovese) from town of Montepulciano. Similar ageing laws to Chianti Riserva.
Rosso di Montepulciano and Rosso di Montalcino DOC
Same region and grape as Vino Nobile/ Brunello, wine must only be aged one year before release. Wine is lighter and fruiter. Use of these DOCs is similar to a top Bordeaux Chateau second label wine.
Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
Only white wine DOCG in Tuscany. High altitude hill sites. Great diurnal temp range keeps flavours and extends ripening period. Neutral wine, medium bodied for early drinking.
Bolgheri DOC
Some well known producers are Sassicaia (which actually has its own DOC within Bolgheri) and Ornellaia. Their wines, known as ‘Super Tuscans’ initially could only be granted Vino da Tavola status, as did not comply with DOC regulations. Bolgheri given its own DOC in 1994 to give the wines the recognition they deserve. Principally Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot production. More temperate climate than most of Tuscany due to proximity to the sea.
Toscana IGT
Many producers started making prestigious wines outside the DOC regulations, such as varietal Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1992 IGT was introduced to accomodate wines that fell outside of the DOC regulations.
Carmignano DOCG and Pomino DOC
North of Florence. Serious reds made from Sangiovese and a percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon.
Vin Santo
Dessert wine produced from raisined grapes, then aged oxidatively in cask from many years.
Toscana
important central Italian region known in English as tuscany.
Tuscany
The most important region in central italy (see map under italy), where it is known as Toscana. Today Tuscany is at the centre neither of Italy’s economic life nor of its political life, but it is the region which formed Italy’s language, its literature, and its art, and has thus assumed a central place in the country’s culture and self-image. The landscape, immortalized in the work of artists from Giotto to Michelangelo and part of every European’s cultural baggage, has remained largely unchanged to this day: a succession of hills and valleys covered with cypresses, umbrella pines, olive groves—and vineyards.
Tuscany- Ancient History
In the ancient world, Tuscany, and at certain points of its history a much larger area, was known as Etruria.
Tuscany- Medieval History
If we know more about the wines of medieval Tuscany than we do about the wines of other regions of medieval Italy, it is not because they were better or there were more of them: the reason is the region’s, and particularly Florence’s, economic and political importance. Viticulture flourished despite the frequent, small-scale civil wars. The region produced more or less equal amounts of oil and wine, but by far the largest crop was wheat. Smallholders were rare in this part of Italy, since the land was mostly owned by monasteries, the local aristocracy, and, increasingly, by merchants in the cities. The system of agriculture was often that known as mezzadria, sharecropping whereby the landowner would provide the working capital and the land in return for half (mezzo, hence the name) the crop. In 1132, for instance, the Badia (Abbey) di Passignano (whose wine is now made and sold by the merchants antinori) leased some of its land to a wealthy cobbler for half his crop of olive oil and wine. The regional centre for selling wine was the Mercato Vecchio in Florence. The earliest reference to wine retailers in the city dates from 1079, and in 1282 the wine sellers formed a guild, the Arte dei Vinattieri. Giovanni di Piero Antinori joined it in 1385, a member of the noble family that continues to make and sell wine in Tuscany today. In order to uphold the profession’s reputation, the guild imposed a strict code of practice. The statutes insisted on cleanliness and exact measures; the shop was not to be situated within 100 yards of a church and it was not to serve children under 15. No cooked food could be sold, and shops were not to shelter ruffians, thieves, or prostitutes. The wine trade was vital to the Florentine economy. Tax records show that more than 300,000 hl/7.9 million gal of wine entered the city every year in the 14th century. The Florentine historian Villani, writing in 1338, estimated that weekly consumption of wine was a gallon a head. Given that Florence had approximately 90,000 inhabitants, this meant that well over 90% was sold elsewhere, to the surrounding country or other Tuscan cities, some overseas via the port of Pisa, mainly to Flanders, paris, and Marseilles. By no means all of this wine would have been Tuscan: a lot of it had come from crete (Candia), corsica, or naples. Tuscany itself produced red wine, which was usually called simply vino vermihlio, but occasionally names appear. The reds of montepulciano and Cortona were heavy, those of Casentino lighter. In the late 14th century, we find Montalcino referred to as brunello. The most important of Tuscany’s white wines were called ‘Vernaccia’ and ‘Trebbiano’, probably named after their respective grape varieties vernaccia and trebbiano, but neither was an exclusively Tuscan wine. Of the two, Vernaccia was the more highly reputed. In its sweet form it was associated primarily with liguria, and particularly with Cinqueterre and Corniglia, although sweet Vernaccia was also made in Tuscany. The dry style of Vernaccia, made in San Gimignano (but also elsewhere), which is not found before the 14th century, was not exported overseas, because only the sweet version was capable of surviving the long sea voyage to France, Flanders, or England. Trebbiano, too, could be dry or sweet. The first recorded mention of chianti is in the correspondence of the Tuscan merchant Francesco di Marco Datini in 1398, and it is a white wine. Datini was fond of it: in 1404 Amadeo Gherardini of Vignamaggio, which is still a well-known estate, wrote to Datini sending him half a barrel of his personal stock. Another of Datini’s favourites was (red) carmignano. Datini’s letters give us an idea of what a rich merchant bought for his own consumption. He had malmsey sent to him from Venice and Genoa, and, more exotically, the equally strong, sweet wine of Tyre from Venice. These foreign wines were luxury items. Another expensive wine from outside Tuscany that Datini loved was Greco. It was grown in puglia and so highly prized was it that in the 14th century the commune of San Gimignano abandoned its tradition of giving distinguished visitors a few ounces of saffron and instead made them a present of the precious Greco. Dante and Boccaccio both mention Vernaccia, a byword for luxury. No Tuscan author wrote exclusively about the wines of the region until Francesco Redi. His Bacco in Toscana (‘Bacchus in Toscana’), published in 1685, is subtitled ditirambo, the Greek dithyramb being a choral lyric in praise of dionysus. Redi’s poem, however, has little to do with the classical genre and is no more than an excuse for showing off his learning to fellow members of the Accademia della Crusca: he provides 228 pages of unhelpful and pretentious notes to deluge 980 lines of verse. Neither the poem nor the notes contains anything interesting or new about Tuscan wine and viticulture, and the notes Leigh Hunt wrote to his translation (1825) of Bacco in Toscana are a good deal more amusing (although of more use to the historian of language than to the historian of wine). The only wines Redi mentions, and praises, are vernaccia, chianti, carmignano, and, finally, montepulciano, which he regards as the king of all wines.
Tuscany- Modern History
Tuscan viticulture was dominated historically by large estates owned by wealthy local families, the majority of them of noble origin, and tilled by a workforce of sharecroppers. The demise of this system in the 1950s and 1960s led to a hiatus in investment or even ordinary maintenance, deterioration of the vineyards and cellars, plummeting wine quality, and eventual sale of the properties to new owners with the requisite capital and energy to carry on the viticultural traditions of the past. Tuscan ownership of Tuscan viticulture is no longer the norm but the new wave of vintners from Milan, Rome, and Genoa—joined in the 1980s by a sizeable contingent of foreigners—has shown both a commendable commitment to quality and an equally commendable openness to new and more cosmopolitan ideas.
Tuscany- Geography and Vine Varieties
Tuscany produces wines in a wide variety of elevations, expositions, and soils. Vineyards spread from the plains of the maremma on the Tuscan coast and steep hillsides as high as 550 m/1,800 ft above sea level in Gaiole-in-Chianti and Lamole in Greve-in-Chianti. A full 68% of the region is officially classified as hilly (a mere 8% of the land is flat) and hillside vineyards, at elevations of between 150 and 500 m (500–1,600 ft) supply the vast majority of the better-quality wines. The sangiovese vine, the backbone of the region’s production, seems to require the concentration of sunlight that slopes can provide to ripen well in these latitudes, as well as the less fertile soils on the hills. Growers also value the significant day-night temperature variability as an important factor in developing its aromatic qualities. Sangiovese, with more than 38,000 ha/93,860 acres planted in 2010 is by far Tuscany’s most planted grape variety. The second most planted, the insipid white trebbiano Toscano was planted on just 3,095 ha and continues to decline now that it has lost its classic role as ingredient in the many Sangiovese-based wines made in the region. In the past enormous yields were demanded from both varieties and the generously demarcated DOCs that were set up in the 1960s encouraged large-scale plantings of high yielding clones with scant attention to the suitability of the site, giving Sangiovese an undeserved reputation as a mediocre grape variety. As the doc laws did nothing to encourage the production of good quality wines, many producers enthusiastically embraced international varieties, especially Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, which they aged in French barriques and sold at high prices. The popularity of these supertuscans is only now slowly subsiding. Several iconic producers persevered with Sangiovese, devoting their best sites to it and drastically lowering yields. As they refused to blend the then-obligatory Trebbiano Toscano into the wine, they also had to resort to the lowly vino da tavola category. The situation has been redressed, especially in chianti classico where intensive research in clonal material and site specifics led to a noticeable increase in quality, while the creation of the igt Toscana brought the Supertuscan rebels back into the fold of a slightly higher denomination. Although many producers in Chianti Classico still use Merlot as a blending partner (up to 20% varieties other than Sangiovese is allowed), the unstoppable trend is for varietal Sangiovese wines, and regularly from single vineyards. Many ferment with ambient yeast with wines aged in traditional large oak casks rather than small French barrels. brunello di montalcino, a 100% Sangiovese wine by law, and in spite of the recent lapse in credibility caused by a blending scandal, has long shown that Sangiovese can produce world-class, long-lived wines. Its neighbour vino nobile di montepulciano has been more reluctant to embrace Sangiovese fully; the production rules were changed in 2010 to allow for a 30% inclusion of international varieties, although quality producers tend to concentrate on Sangiovese and its ability to transmit a transparent expression of the Monepulciano terroir. bolgheri has been Tuscany’s Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot hotspot (see sassicaia for more details) although many of the wines contain a portion of Sangiovese to add acidity to Cabernet and Merlot which can be too ripe and flabby when grown on the hot Maremma plains. Further inland and higher up in the hills where a cooler climate prevails, the previously unremarkable DOC Montecucco has attracted newcomers who regularly produce wines on a par with the best from Chianti Classico even if their number is still small. DOC Monteregio di Massa Marittima seems equally promising for fine wine, especially when vineyards are planted on elevations above 300 m, but it may take some time (as well as more producers) to convincingly show its potential. Not all of the myriad of DOCs and DOCGs in Tuscany (48 in total in 2014) are either significant or particularly different from the supposedly lower IGT category. Producers therefore often prefer to label their wines with the more widely recognized IGT Toscana. More than half of Tuscany’s 60,000 ha are registered for the production of DOC and IGT wine with their stricter production rules than for basic table wine. While the Chianti DOCG continues to supply the mass market with distinctly modest wines, the majority of Tuscany’s wine regions are now focused on high quality. While the trend for indigenous varieties seems unstoppable, the international varieties, which are still widely planted, excel in several areas (notably in carmignano, Bolgheri, Suvereto, and, for Syrah, Cortona). While the whites from international varieties fared less well, there was still almost as much Chardonnay (585 ha/1446 acres) as Vermentino (652 ha/1611 acres) but most of Tuscany seems too warm to produce truly great whites. Vermentino, a relative newcomer in central Tuscany arriving from nearby liguria, seems to be the most credible indigenous answer, while the minerally and elegant vernaccia di San Gimignano deserves a comback after it became a victim of its own success which led to the overproduction of rather technical wines.
Tignanello
Seminal central Italian wine first produced by the house of antinori as a single-vineyard Chianti Classico in the 1970 vintage and then as a ground-breaking vino da tavola in the 1971 vintage.
Sassicaia
Trail-blazing Tuscan wine made, largely from cabernet sauvignon, originally by Mario Incisa della Rochetta at the Tenuta San Guido near bolgheri and one of the first Italian reds made in the image of fine red bordeaux. The first small commercial quantities were released in the mid 1970s. For more details, see vino da tavola. In 1994 Sassicaia was granted its own DOC as an official subzone of Bolgheri (Bolgheri-Sassicaia DOC), the only wine from a single estate in Italy to enjoy this privilege.
Supertuscan
Term sometimes used by English speakers to describe the innovative wines labelled as vino da tavola made in the central Italian region of Tuscany which emerged in the 1970s. Prototype Supertuscans were tignanello and sassicaia, both initially marketed by antinori. The Vino da Tavola denomination was replaced by igt in 1994, but the term Supertuscan remains.
Bolgheri
Small town in the Tuscan maremma made famous by Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, who planted Cabernet Sauvignon vines for a house wine as early as the 1940s on his San Guido estate, labelling the resulting wine sassicaia. Bizarrely, the DOC created for Bolgheri in 1983 was only for whites and rosé, but it was amended in 1994 to include red wine and the subzone Sassicaia was created. Prior to this Sassicaia had to be labelled as vino da tavola, but due to its high quality it became known as a supertuscan, spawning many copies throughout Tuscany. The success of Sassicaia, Grattamacco (first vintage 1982), and ornellaia (1985) triggered an investment frenzy in the region, which expanded from 250 ha/618 acres at the end of the 1990s to more than 1,000 ha/2,470 acres in 2010 when it was home to more than 50 wine estates. The proximity to the sea gives a more temperate climate than that found in the central Tuscan hills, resulting in grapes that ripen earlier, often before the autumn rains arrive. The DOC’s red wine production is based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which are allowed as varietal wines or blends, while the indigenous Sangiovese may comprise no more than 50% of the wines. Unsurprisingly, most estates produce a classic bordeaux blend aged in barriques, a model which initially seemed to guarantee commercial success. The wines are generally of a high quality, but styles differ due to the diverse soil composition and location of the vineyards as well as differences in winemaking. Although once hailed as one of Italy’s future fine-wine regions, the lower elevations have proved too warm to produce wines of sufficient elegance to mimic Bordeaux, which seems to be the objective of most producers here.
Maremma
Long, loosely defined strip of tuscan coastline south of Livorno (Leghorn) extending southward through the province of Grosseto. (Lazio also has its part of the Maremma, between Civitavecchia and the border with Tuscany, but this is not a viticultural zone.) Since 1995 it has also been the name of an igt which was elevated to DOC in 2011 but, perversely, without more rigorous production rules. Within its borders lie no fewer than eight DOCs and four DOCGs, but although the area is extremely extensive, in 2012 only 1,665 ha/4,113 acres were declared DOC Maremma—modest in comparison with chianti classico’s 6,818 ha/16,847 acres. It cannot be used for declassifying wines from the many DOCs within the region, therefore it is potentially attractive only to producers in obscure DOCs whose names do not resonate with wine lovers. The Alta Maremma (Upper Maremma) is the highest part of the region in the north between Massa Marittima and Roccastrada where vineyards are situated at elevations between 150 and 500 m (490–1,640 ft), providing a cooler mesoclimate than the warm Maremma plain, and resulting in more elegant wines. In etymological terms, the word Maremma derives from the Latin mare, or sea, and is related to the French marais. Like the médoc in Bordeaux, the low-lying parts of the Maremma were swampy or marshy for much of their history with chronic problems of malaria. Production of bottled wine is consequently a recent phenomenon and quality wine can be said to date from the first bottles of sassicaia in the 1970s, although the zone of Morellino di Scansano, high and relatively malaria free, enjoyed a certain reputation in the past. Thanks to the success of Sassicaia and, later, ornellaia, the mid 1990s saw an investment boom in the Maremma, its apparent potential for large-scale vineyards on relatively inexpensive land attracting many prestigious producers. Because the much warmer climate here results in riper grapes, it quickly became a source of blending wine for beefing up other Tuscan DOCs. The history of the region is so recent that eight of its 12 DOCs and DOCGs did not exist prior to 1989 (Bolgheri itself having been elevated only in 1983), while several small DOCs owe their status to the success of remarkably few producers, Suvereto being an example. Sassicaia laid the foundation stone for successful Cabernet-based wines, and many estates tried to copy the style while often supplementing their vineyards with plantings of Merlot and Syrah, but the results often lack the elegance and age-worthiness of the prototype. barrique ageing is still the standard, although large oak casks are increasingly used instead. Even if almost every DOC within the Maremma has a provision for the production of international varieties, be it as an added percentage or as varietally labelled wines, Sangiovese is still the most common and mandatory ingredient in most of the wines here. In the Maremma there are three important areas, all promoted to DOCG in 2009. Morellino di Scansano DOCG is Maremma’s classic zone for Sangiovese near Grosseto around the town of Scansano. Vineyards rise up to 450 m while Sangiovese (here called Morellino) tends to be fuller bodied on lower-lying vineyards. Like Chianti Classico, the wines must contain a minimum of 85% of Sangiovese. Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG, north east of Grosseto and further inland than Morellino di Scansano, shares its provision of a minimum of 85% Sangiovese. Unremarkable in the past, it has attracted newcomers unable to afford vineyards in Chianti Classico and Montalcino who have begun to produce high-quality Sangiovese wines. Montecucco DOC is for whites based on Vermentino and reds with up to 60% Sangiovese. Val di Cornia Rosso DOCG on the Tuscan coast south east of Suvereto, on a spit of land jutting out into the Mediterranean, is for blends of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet while the Val di Cornia Bianco DOC is for whites made from Vermentino and Ansonica (the DOC Ansonica Costa dell’Argentario on the coast near the rocky promontory of Argentario is reserved for whites with a minimum of 85% Ansonica, the same variety as Sicily’s inzolia). The DOC Monteregio di Massa Marittima, extending over a large area between the coast and the town of Roccastrada, features Sangiovese for reds and Vermentino for whites, complemented by international varieties. Rising up to 500 m, the hills here are virgin vineyard land but the few wines produced here are generally elegant and fresh, suggesting that it has an interesting future. Bolgheri apart, the Maremma has not turned out to be the promised land it appeared to be in the mid 1990s, although it may eventually produce some excellent wines from vineyards planted with the right varieties and clones, and, crucially, in the best sites.
Carmignano
Historic central Italian red wine made 16 km/10 miles north west of Florence in a zone noted as one of tuscany’s finest for red wine production since the Middle Ages. The vineyards are located on a series of low hills between 50 and 200 m (160–650 ft) above sea level, unusually low for the sangiovese grape, which forms the base of the blend and gives wines with lower acidity and softer tannins than the wines of chianti classico. The wines were first given legal status by Cosimo III de’Medici—himself a major proprietor in the Carmignano zone at the villa of Artimino—who included them in his selection of four areas of superior wine production in an edict of 1716 which prohibited other wines from using the names of the selected areas. The grand-ducal wines were sent regularly to Queen Anne of England, who apparently appreciated their quality. The wines were also praised by Giovanni Cosimo Villifranchi (1773) and Cosimo Ridolfi (1831). The report of the Dalmasso Commission in 1932 (see italy and tuscany) assigned Carmignano to the nearby zone of Chianti Montalbano, where cooler temperatures and higher elevations result in Chianti wines of lighter body and higher acidity more suitable for early drinking. Independent status was restored in 1975, however, with the granting of a doc for Carmignano, the only Tuscan DOC to require the inclusion of cabernet sauvignon (up to 20%) in a Sangiovese-based blend years before its use became common in the so-called supertuscans and long before the production rules of Chianti and Chianti Classico were loosened to allow international varieties in the blends. It was awarded docg status in 1990. Bizarrely, a provision for up to 10% white wine grapes remains, but is hardly used by any quality-conscious producers. The wine must be aged for at least 12 months in oak or chestnut casks. The alleged tradition of Cabernet Sauvignon in the zone was of major assistance in detaching it from Chianti Montalbano. The vineyards of Ugo Contini-Bonacossi of Villa di Capezzana, who was instrumental in obtaining the DOC for the region, and the zone’s major producer, were grafted with cuttings from Ch lafite in the 1970s. He claimed to be reviving a local tradition begun by the Medici. This view is supported by the zone’s Consorzio, which maintains that Cabernet Sauvignon vines were planted here as early as the 16th century at the request of Catherine de Medici, then Queen of France. Although in the past many of the Carmignano wines were aged, at least partially, in French barriques, many producers have returned to ageing the wines in large oak casks, while Fattoria di Bacchereto uses clay amphorae with impressive results. The DOC for younger wines is Barco Reale (referring to the ‘royal park’, as distinguished in the Medici edict of 1716), the DOC which also applies to the zone’s sweet vin santo and its rosé often obtained by saignée. The rosé has a long history here as Vin Ruspo, a reference to peasants’ drawing off, or ‘robbing’, the pale juice from the cask at the beginning of fermentation.
Brunetto di Montalcino
Youngest of Italy’s prestigious red wines, having been invented as a wine in its own right by Ferruccio biondi-santi, the first to bottle it and give it a distinctive name, in 1865. Conventional descriptions of the birth of the wine stress Biondi-Santi’s successful isolation of a superior clone of sangiovese, the Sangiovese Grosso or brunello. an investigation begun by his father Clemente Santi. The 1865 vintage of a wine Clemente had labelled ‘brunello’ had been a prize-winning entry in the agricultural fair of Montepulciano in 1869, indicating that genetically superior material was available in the zone at an earlier date. (Some records show the wines of Montalcino referred to as Brunello as early as the 14th century; see tuscany, history.) Only four vintages—1888, 1891, 1925, 1945—were declared in the first 57 years of production, contributing an aura of rarity to the wine that translated into high prices and, in Italy at least, incomparable prestige. The Biondi-Santi were the only commercial producers until after the Second World War and a government report of 1932 named Brunello as an exclusive product of the family and estimated its total annual production at just 200 hl/5,280 gal. Until the 1960s the region was almost exclusively known for sweet and often sparkling moscadello. With the arrival of the American company Banfi at the end of the 1970s Brunello’s fortunes took a sharp turn. Banfi’s owners, the Italo-American Mariani brothers who had had huge commercial success with lambrusco, bought up whole swathes of land in the hotter, southern part of the zone which until then had never been vineyards, planting them with Moscadello for the production of a fizzy sweet white. The plan failed spectacularly, after which the vines were grafted over to Sangiovese and international varieties. Banfi started to produce Brunello in great quantity and had such commercial success with it that many outsiders were tempted to jump on the bandwagon. The region, which in the 1960s consisted of 11 producers on a mere 63.5 ha/157 acres swelled to almost 2,000 ha/4,940 acres shared by 258 producers in 2012. This dramatic increase was made possible by including land new to viticulture. in 1996 a new DOC, Sant’Antimo, was added to the production regulations to allow for the international varieties that inevitably turned up in the wake of the success of supertuscans. The question of Brunello’s true identity culminated in a blending scandal in 2008 when Italy’s financial police sequestered whole batches of wines from several producers after their investigations had shown that these wines were not the mandatory 100% Brunello, but illegal blends which contained international varieties. The scandal, known as Brunellogate (Brunellopoli in Italy), led to a controversial proposal, eventually rejected, to allow the addition of other varieties but actually highlighted the uncomfortable fact that the official Brunello zone may well include land unsuitable for Brunello vines. Climate and elevation are perhaps more significant factors than specific clones in creating the characteristics of the wine: the town of Montalcino, 112 km/70 miles south of Florence, enjoys a warmer, drier climate than the various zones of chianti. Indeed, it is the most arid of all Tuscan docg zones, with an annual rainfall of about 700 mm/28 in (compared with over 900 in central Chianti Classico). In addition, a cool maritime breeze from the south west ensures both excellent ventilation and cool evenings and nights. Sangiovese can reach its maximum ripeness here, giving fuller, more structured wines than anywhere else in Tuscany. The zone can be split roughly in two. On the galestro soils in the northern part of the zone, vineyards are at elevations up to 500 m, while in the south the soil has more clay, the average temperature is higher, and the wines tend to be fuller than the more aromatic wines from the north. Because of this some of the zone’s producers have vineyards in both the north and south to give them the balance they seek in their wines. However, winemaking practices differ widely between estates, resulting in myriad styles of Brunello but the finest examples manage the tricky balancing act of combining layers of red fruit, bold structure, and elegance. The DOC regulations of 1960, largely written by Biondi-Santi on the basis of the family’s oenological practices, include five to six years’ cask ageing for the riserva and established a model of Brunello as a full, intense, long-lasting wine, which was confirmed in 1980 by the docg rules. The minimum cask ageing period was lowered to 36 months in 1990 and then to two years in 1998. barrique ageing has become standard in Montalcino, however, as in much of Tuscany. Some producers balance the oak with the wine better than others, while many producers have returned to ageing in large oak casks (botti), which impart less or no oak flavour at all to the wine. The financial burden imposed by the lengthy ageing period has led to a corresponding increase in the production of rosso di Montalcino, the 100% Brunello DOC wine that can be marketed after one year. The existence of a second DOC into which lesser wines can be declassified has had a positive impact on the quality of Brunello di Montalcino, in addition to its obvious advantages for producers’ cash flow.