Coastal Landscapes Flashcards

1
Q

What is a wave?

A

Movement of energy through a body of water

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2
Q

What causes waves?

A

Wind blowing over the sea, friction between air and sea causes ripples and eventually waves.

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3
Q

What determines the wave size?

A

Strength of wind
Length of time wind has been blowing
The fetch

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4
Q

Describe a destructive wave.

A

Weak awash and strong backwash. This means material is taken from beach as erosion is stronger than deposition.

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5
Q

Describe a constructive wave.

A

Strong swash and weak backwash means deposition is stronger and material is deposited

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6
Q

What is swash?

A

Force of water going onto beach

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7
Q

What is backwash?

A

Force of water returning to sea

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8
Q

How long is britains coast?

A

5000km

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9
Q

What is erosion?

A

Wearing away of coastline by wave action

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10
Q

What is transportation?

A

Movement of eroded sediment along the coastline

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11
Q

What is deposition?

A

Dropping of sediment due to loss of energy

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12
Q

How does longshore drift occur?

A

Swash occurs in the direction of the prevailing wind meaning sediment is carried in this direction. Backwash carries the sediment back to the sea. This process continues and sediment is carried in the downdrift direction by longshore drift.

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13
Q

How do headlands and bays formed?

A

Occurs on discordant coastlines where layers of hard and soft rock both face the sea. As the sea hits the coastline soft rock erodes quickly as it is less resistant. This forms bays. The remaining hard rock is left as headland

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14
Q

What are the 3 categories for weathering?

A

Physical
Chemical
Biological

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15
Q

How does freeze thaw (physical) weathering happen?

A

Rainwater enters crack in rock.
It freezes and expands causing crack to grow in size.
This causes the rock to crack and crumble overtime

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16
Q

How does chemical weathering work?

A

Rainwater is acidic due to dissolved carbon dioxide.
Minerals react with it causing exposed rocks to break up.

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17
Q

How does biological weathering work?

A

Seeds blow into cracks
Crack gives moisture and shelter
Roots develop
Roots break up rocks
Trees grow

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18
Q

What is mass movement?

A

When a large amount of material shifts or moves down a slope under the force of gravity

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19
Q

What are the 4 types of mass movement?

A

Slide (landslide)
Slump (rotational slip)
Fall (rockfall)
Flow (mudflow)

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20
Q

Explain what happens at a concordant coastline?

A

Layers of soft and hard rock are layered facing the sea. The waves find a weak point in the hard rock and it is eroded. The soft rock behind is much easier to erode and a cove is formed

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21
Q

What is an example of a wave cut platform?

A

Kimmeridge Bay, Dorset

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22
Q

How are wave cut platforms made?

A

Sea attacks and undercuts cliff, forming wave cut notch. Weather weakens top of cliff. Notch becomes larger and weight causes it to collapse. Sea attacks base of cliff and line of cliffs retreats. Rubble is carried away and wave cut platform is left.

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23
Q

What is an example of stacks/slumps?

A

Old Harry Rocks, Dorset

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24
Q

How does a stack form?

A

Joint fault (weakness) found in rock. This is widened into a sea cave through erosional processes like … As it grows wider collapsed material is removed by waves. Eventually an arch will form. Arch is weakened by chemical and physical weathering and weakens arch. Erosional processes weakens base. Over time arch collapses and forms a stack. Stacks base is eroded by … and collapses to form a stump.

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25
Q

Why are sandy beaches shallow and almost flat?

A

Because dominant wave type is constructive. This means waves deposit sediment deep inland as they have a strong swash but weak backwash.

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26
Q

Why are pebble beaches steep?

A

Because dominant wave type is destructive. This means beaches are short as sediment is constantly eroded by the waves since they have a weak swash and strong backwash.

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27
Q

What is a spit?

A

An area of sand or shingle that extends from the shore out to the sea in the direction of longshore drift.

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28
Q

What is an example of a spit?

A

Hurst spit

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29
Q

Describe the formation of a spit.

A

Change in shape of land. Longshore drift continues in prevailing wind direction. Constructive waves deposit sediment because swash is stronger than backwash and a spit is formed.

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30
Q

What is a bar?

A

A landform caused by longshore drift and deposition that connects two areas of land.

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31
Q

What is an example of a bar?

A

Slapton Ley, Devon

32
Q

When does a bar become a tombolo?

A

When a spit joins onto island rather than a mainland

33
Q

How are sand dunes formed?

A

Obstacles cause wind speed to decrease so sand is deposited. Sand is colonised by pioneer species. Vegetation stabilises sand and encourages more sand to accumulate. Rotting vegetation adds organic matter making it fertile, more plants can grow. Another storm will form in front and provide shelter for existing dune.

34
Q

What is a pioneer species?

A

First species to colonise in the dune

35
Q

What is an adaptation?

A

Special features that enable the plant to survive in a particular environment

36
Q

What are perennials?

A

Plants that live for a long period of time

37
Q

What is humus?

A

Organic component of soil formed by decomposed vegetation

38
Q

What are the order of dunes in age?

A

Embryo
Yellow
Grey
Dune
Mature

39
Q

What are the features formed by erosion?

A

Stack/slump
Slumped coastline
Steep cliff
Cove
Wave-cut platform

40
Q

What features are made from deposition?

A

Sand dunes
Spit

41
Q

What are the 4 management options for the coast?

A

Do nothing
Hold the line
Advance the line
Managed retreat

42
Q

When might we do nothing?

A

When there is no serious threat of where the value of the land is low

43
Q

What does hold the line mean?

A

Preventing recession or flooding inland

44
Q

What does advance the line mean?

A

Extend land towards the sea

45
Q

What is managed retreat?

A

Allowing current coastline to retreat inland in a controlled way by allowing land to deliberately become flooded

46
Q

What is a sea wall and how does it protect the coast?

A

Concrete barrier along coast which absorbs energy of waves.

47
Q

What are the advantages and disadvantages of sea walls?

A

Very effective
Last long
Can become weakened
Look quite ugly and unnatural
Maintenance and repairing very expensive

48
Q

What is rock armour and how does it protect the coastline?

A

Made from granite or hard rocks. Placed at base of cliff to absorb energy but lets water run through.

49
Q

What are the advantages and disadvantages of rock armour?

A

Lasts around 120 years
Natural resources used
Still lets water through so some erosion
Look ugly
Easily moved by water

50
Q

What are groynes and how do they protect the coastline?

A

Wooden fences or walls built out in to sea. Reduce effect of longshore drift.

51
Q

What are the advantages and disadvantages of groynes?

A

Able to protect coast with extra beach
Erosion rates can increase down the coast.
Last around 30-40 years

52
Q

What are gabions?

A

Wire cages filled with boulders.

53
Q

What are the disadvantages of gabions?

A

Short term
Easily destroyed
Cages rust easily

54
Q

What is beach nourishment?

A

Sand is replaced along the beach

55
Q

What are the advantages and disadvantages of beach nourishment?

A

Can make beach more effective
Has to be continually carried out
Dredger is noisy and affects marine life

56
Q

What is involved in dune regeneration?

A

Sand dunes act as buffers
Marram grass can be planted
Areas can be fenced off

57
Q

What are the advantages and disadvantages of dune regeneration?

A

Maintains natural environment
Time consuming to plant and fence areas off
People do not respond well to being prohibited
Can be damaged by storms

58
Q

How does beach profiling work?

A

Shaping beach so that they absorb more energy during storms

59
Q

What are the advantages and disadvantages of beach profiling?

A

Give natural look
Needs to be continually carried out
Noisy and will scare wild life

60
Q

Where is Poole Bay?

A

It is in the south of England south west of London. It is in south Dorset, west of Bournemouth and Christchurch.

61
Q

What are the 3 methods used in the Poole Bay management scheme?

A

Groynes
Beach replenishment
Sea wall

62
Q

In how long would the sand disappear?

A

5-10 years

63
Q

How much is the sea eroding the beach per year?

A

Around 1 metre

64
Q

How long will the Poole Bay management scheme take?

A

17 years

65
Q

How much will the Poole Bay management scheme cost?

A

£50 million

66
Q

How much will the groynes cost?

A

£3.6 million

67
Q

How many groynes?

A

10

68
Q

How many beach areas were renourished?

A

7

69
Q

How much did the beach renourishment cost?

A

£11.6 million

70
Q

How much material was dredged and distributed?

A

705 500m3

71
Q

How do the groynes and beach renourishment work together?

A

Groynes reduce effect of longshore drift on the new dredged material. Reduces the erosion of the beach

72
Q

What is the role of the long groyne?

A

Beach material builds up around headland.
Reduces erosion to cliff face

73
Q

Why was the long groyne repaired?

A

It was raised in height to protect for another 100 years
Was regularly submerged in water
2019 inspection showed it was in very poor condition
Risk of localised collapse

74
Q

How many beach huts are protected along the Poole Bay frontage?

A

2500

75
Q

How much beach is protected from erosion?

A

18km

76
Q

How many commercial and residential properties have had their flood and erosion risk reduced?

A

6000

77
Q

What is meant by terminal groyne system?

A

Sediment builds up at long groynes, this starved beaches further east of sediment leading to very rapid erosion