Coastal Landscapes Flashcards
What is a wave?
Movement of energy through a body of water
What causes waves?
Wind blowing over the sea, friction between air and sea causes ripples and eventually waves.
What determines the wave size?
Strength of wind
Length of time wind has been blowing
The fetch
Describe a destructive wave.
Weak awash and strong backwash. This means material is taken from beach as erosion is stronger than deposition.
Describe a constructive wave.
Strong swash and weak backwash means deposition is stronger and material is deposited
What is swash?
Force of water going onto beach
What is backwash?
Force of water returning to sea
How long is britains coast?
5000km
What is erosion?
Wearing away of coastline by wave action
What is transportation?
Movement of eroded sediment along the coastline
What is deposition?
Dropping of sediment due to loss of energy
How does longshore drift occur?
Swash occurs in the direction of the prevailing wind meaning sediment is carried in this direction. Backwash carries the sediment back to the sea. This process continues and sediment is carried in the downdrift direction by longshore drift.
How do headlands and bays formed?
Occurs on discordant coastlines where layers of hard and soft rock both face the sea. As the sea hits the coastline soft rock erodes quickly as it is less resistant. This forms bays. The remaining hard rock is left as headland
What are the 3 categories for weathering?
Physical
Chemical
Biological
How does freeze thaw (physical) weathering happen?
Rainwater enters crack in rock.
It freezes and expands causing crack to grow in size.
This causes the rock to crack and crumble overtime
How does chemical weathering work?
Rainwater is acidic due to dissolved carbon dioxide.
Minerals react with it causing exposed rocks to break up.
How does biological weathering work?
Seeds blow into cracks
Crack gives moisture and shelter
Roots develop
Roots break up rocks
Trees grow
What is mass movement?
When a large amount of material shifts or moves down a slope under the force of gravity
What are the 4 types of mass movement?
Slide (landslide)
Slump (rotational slip)
Fall (rockfall)
Flow (mudflow)
Explain what happens at a concordant coastline?
Layers of soft and hard rock are layered facing the sea. The waves find a weak point in the hard rock and it is eroded. The soft rock behind is much easier to erode and a cove is formed
What is an example of a wave cut platform?
Kimmeridge Bay, Dorset
How are wave cut platforms made?
Sea attacks and undercuts cliff, forming wave cut notch. Weather weakens top of cliff. Notch becomes larger and weight causes it to collapse. Sea attacks base of cliff and line of cliffs retreats. Rubble is carried away and wave cut platform is left.
What is an example of stacks/slumps?
Old Harry Rocks, Dorset
How does a stack form?
Joint fault (weakness) found in rock. This is widened into a sea cave through erosional processes like … As it grows wider collapsed material is removed by waves. Eventually an arch will form. Arch is weakened by chemical and physical weathering and weakens arch. Erosional processes weakens base. Over time arch collapses and forms a stack. Stacks base is eroded by … and collapses to form a stump.
Why are sandy beaches shallow and almost flat?
Because dominant wave type is constructive. This means waves deposit sediment deep inland as they have a strong swash but weak backwash.
Why are pebble beaches steep?
Because dominant wave type is destructive. This means beaches are short as sediment is constantly eroded by the waves since they have a weak swash and strong backwash.
What is a spit?
An area of sand or shingle that extends from the shore out to the sea in the direction of longshore drift.
What is an example of a spit?
Hurst spit
Describe the formation of a spit.
Change in shape of land. Longshore drift continues in prevailing wind direction. Constructive waves deposit sediment because swash is stronger than backwash and a spit is formed.
What is a bar?
A landform caused by longshore drift and deposition that connects two areas of land.