Pattern Making

Question 1

When drafting the patterns what needs to be done to the 2 collars?

Answer 1

Nothing. Just write “Cut 2 interfacing on the upper collar”

Question 2

When drafting the patterns what needs to be done to the upper sleeve?

Answer 2

• Add half thickness of shoulder pad width to sleeve cap & ½” to under arm for the lining.
• Interface hem a ½” above foldline

Question 3

When drafting the patterns what needs to be done to the lower sleeve?

Answer 3

• Add ½ “ to underarm for lining
• Interface hem a ½” above foldline

Question 4

When drafting the patterns what needs to be done to the front?

Answer 4

• Add ½” to underarm for lining.
• Interfacing:
  - Starting at the hem, follow
  the dart edge that is
  closest to the center front.
  At the top of the dart
  create a curve that ends 2
  ½” down from the armhole
  hem a ½” above the
  foldline
  - Interface the welt pocket
  area - 2½” x 8 ½”
• Draw line for welt pockets 7 ½ ”
  from bottom edge, 1” from front edge
• Draw patch pocket placement
• Ensure that everything has a grainline

Question 5

When drafting the patterns what needs to be done to the lapel?

Answer 5

Nothing. Just write “Cut 4 fabric” and “Cut 1 Interfacing

Question 6

When drafting the patterns what needs to be done to the back for lining?

Answer 6

• Add 1 ½ ” to the center back starting at the neckline and going to 7” above vent. Curve into center back line to 3” above vent. Mark a notch at center back of the neckline
• Add a ½” to armhole for lining

Question 7

When drafting the patterns what needs to be done to the back for fabric?

Answer 7

• Add a 5”x1 ½” extension starting at the hem foldline for the vent. Add the ½” seam allowance to the vent, drawing it outside the rectangle. Make a “marking dot” at the seam line corners at the top of the rectangle.
• Back Vent Facing Pattern: Draw a rectangle 4 ½”x1 ½”. Cut 1 Fabric. Cut 2 interfacing
• Add ½” seam allowance to the back seam. Make a notch at the hem foldline.
• Yoke: 7” from center and draw the yoke line. Add notch to yoke line. Add the ½” seam allowance to each piece. Write “Cut 1 on fold”

Question 8

When drafting the patterns what needs to be done to the back for interfacing?

Answer 8

Create a piece that curves across the back of the jacket, 6 ½” down from the top edge of the neck at center back ending at 2 ½” down from the top edge at the armhole.
Interface Hem: ½ ” above foldline

Question 9

When drafting the patterns what needs to be done for the welt pockets?

Answer 9

• 5 ½ ”x1 ½” rectangle for welt and interfacing
  5”x 2 ½” rectangle for pocket facing and interfacing
• Draw a 5 ½ ” x 4 ½” rectangle for pocket bags. Add Grainlines. Cut 2 Lining

Question 10

When drafting the patterns what needs to be done for the patch pocket?

Answer 10

• Fabric: Draw a 4”x4” rectangle. Add ¼” seam allowance along bottom and sides. Add a 1 ¼” seam allowance at top of pocket
• Lining: Draw a 4”x4” rectangle. ⅛” seam allowance along bottom and sides. ¼” seam allowance along top
• Draw a 4”x4” rectangle for interfacing

Question 11

When drafting the patterns what needs to be done for the sleeve head?

Answer 11

Make a rectangle 10” x 1 ½”. Add bias grainline. Cut 2 Fabric