Shoreline Flashcards

1
Q

a common boundary where different parts of a

system interact.

A

Interface

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
2
Q

A group of interacting or interdependent parts that

form a complex whole

A

System

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
3
Q

the area that extends between the lowest tide level
and the highest elevation on land that is affected by storm
waves

A

Shore

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
4
Q
  • the area exposed when the tide is out (low tide)
    and submerged when the tide is in (high tide)

-region between mean high water and mean
low water marks of the tides

A

Foreshore

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
5
Q

the area that extends inland from the shore as far as

ocean-related features can be found.

A

Coast

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
6
Q

the area landward of the high-tide shoreline.

A

backshore

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
7
Q

the line that marks the contact between land

and sea

A

Shoreline

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
8
Q

– this marks the coast’s seaward edge, whereas
the inland boundary is not always obvious or easy to
determine

A

Coastline

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
9
Q

the zone that lies between the low-tide

shoreline and the line where waves break at low tide

A

Nearshore Zone

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
10
Q

the zone seaward of the nearshore zone.

A

Offshore Zone

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
11
Q

is an accumulation of sediment found along the

landward margin of the ocean or a lake.

A

Beach

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
12
Q

a ridge at the top of the beach that marks the

division between the foreshore and backshore area

A

Berm

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
13
Q

wet sloping surface that extends from the

berm to he shoreline

A

Beach Face

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
14
Q

the built up clasts that are washed up
the beach at the top of the foreshore, a back-beach gravel
ridge that is a distinctive feature of gravelly beaches

A

Beach Dune Ridge

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
15
Q

– the low-lying areas adjacent to seas. They
are part of the continental environment where there are fluvial, alluvial or aeolian processes of sedimentation and pedogenic modification

A

Coastal Plain

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
16
Q

the extensive area of beach deposits lies

directly adjacent to the coastal plain

A

Strand Plain

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
17
Q

typically have relatively steep gradients where a lot of the wave energy is reflected back into the sea from
the shoreline, both bedrock and loose material may be removed from the coast and redistributed by wave, tide and current processes

A

Erosional Coastline or Reflective Coast

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
18
Q

gradient is normally relatively gentle and a lot of the wave energy is dissipated in shallow water: provided that there is a supply of sediment, these dissipative coasts can be sites of accumulation of sediment

A

Depositional Coastline or Dissipative Coast

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
19
Q

develop either because an area experiences uplift or as a result of a drop in sea level.

A

Emergent Coast

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
20
Q

created when sea level rises or the land adjacent to the sea subsides

A

Submergent Coast

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
21
Q

are energy traveling along the interface between ocean and atmosphere, often transferring energy from
a storm far out at sea over distances of several thousand kilometers

A

Ocean Waves

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
22
Q

– the top of a wave.

A

Crest

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
23
Q

separates two crests

A

Trough

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
24
Q

halfway between crest and trough

A

Still Water Level

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
25
Q

vertical distance between crest and trough

A

Wave Height

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
26
Q

horizontal distance between successive crest

A

Wave Length

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
27
Q

The time it takes one full wave (one wavelength) to pass a fixed position

A

Wave Period

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
28
Q

when critical point is reached where waves grow

so tall that they topple over, forming ocean breakers

A

White Caps

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
29
Q

waves that are lower in height and longer in length and may carry thestorm’s energy to distant shores

A

Swell

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
30
Q

movement of waves as the water passes the energy

along by moving in circle

A

Circular Orbital Motion

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
31
Q

depth equal to one half the wavelength measured from still water level

A

Wave Base

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
32
Q

turbulent water created by breaking waves

A

Surf

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
33
Q

when turbulent sheet of water from collapsing breaks moves up the slope of the beach.

A

Swash

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
34
Q

when water flows back down the beach towards the surf zone when the energy of the swash has been expended

A

Backwash

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
35
Q

the impact of waves as it crashes along the shorelines

A

Wave Impact

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
36
Q

The sawing and grinding action of water armed with rock fragments

A

Abrasion

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
37
Q

-net loss or addition of sand depends on the wave activity

-mostly done by the swash and backwash action of
waves

A

Movement Perpendicular to the Shoreline

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
38
Q

bending of waves

-As most waves travel to shore at an angle, they are bent when they reach the shallow water of a smoothly sloping bottom and tends to move parallel to the shore.

A

Wave Refraction

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
39
Q

when the movement of water transporting sediments is in a zigzag pattern along the beach face.

A

Beach Drift

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
40
Q

currents that flows parallel to the shore

A

Longshore Current

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
41
Q

unconfined flow across the ocean bottom where backwash flows back to the open ocean

A

Sheet Flow

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
42
Q

concentrated movements of water that flow in the opposite direction from breaking waves

A

Rip Current

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
43
Q

cliffs formed due to the cutting action of the surf against the base of coastal land

A

Wave Cliffs

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
44
Q

a relatively flat, bench like surface

A

Wave Platform

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
45
Q

wave-cut platforms uplifted by tectonic forces

A

Marine Terrace

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
46
Q

ridges separating the valleys remain above sea level and project into the sea

A

Headland

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
47
Q

when two caves on opposite sides of a headland unite

A

Sea Arch

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
48
Q

isolated remnants formed when sea arch falls in

A

Sea Stack

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
49
Q

formed due to the further weathering of sea stack

A

Sea Stump

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
50
Q

an elongated ridge of sand that projects from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay

A

Spit

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
51
Q

– sandbar that completely crosses a bay, sealing it off from

the open ocean

A

Baymouth Bar

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
52
Q

ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland or to another island

A

Tombolo

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
53
Q

barrier of sediments that separates a lagoon from the open sea

A

Barrier

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
54
Q

barrier that is partially attached to a land.

A

Barrier Spit

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
55
Q

– barrier the is wholly attached to a land

A

Welded Barrier

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
56
Q

isolated barrier

A

Barrier island

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
57
Q

are daily changes in the elevation of the ocean

surface.

A

Tide

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
58
Q

occurs when the sun and the moon are aligned causing larger tidal bulges (higher high tides) and deeper tidal troughs (lower low tides), thus, producing a large tidal range

A

Spring Tide

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
59
Q

horizontal flow of water accompanying the rise and fall of the tide

A

Tidal Current

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
60
Q

tidal currents that advance into the coastal

zone as the tide rises.

A

Flood Current

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
61
Q

periods of little to no current

A

Slack Water

62
Q

occurs when the gravitational pull of the sun and moon
acts upon earth at a right angle therefore they partially offsets the gravitational forces of each other
producing less tidal range

A

Neap Tide

63
Q

tidal current generated by seaward-moving

water as the falls.

A

Ebb Current

64
Q

area affected by alternating tidal currents

A

Tidal Flats

65
Q

– formed at the landward inlet

A

Flood Delta

66
Q

deltas created by tidal currents

A

Tidal Delta

67
Q

formed at the seaward side of an inlet

A

Ebb Delta

68
Q

wave action can maintain a barrier system that can be more or less continuous for tens of kilometres.

A

Microtidal

69
Q

With the increased tidal range of _____ conditions, more exchange of water between the lagoon and the sea is required, resulting in more inlets forming, breaking up the barrier into a series of islands

A

Mesotidal

70
Q

Coasts that have high tidal ranges do not develop barrier systems because the ebb and flood tidal currents are a stronger control on the distribution of sediment than wave action

A

Macrotidal

71
Q

measure of the depth of water in oceans seas or lakes, the shape and depth of the sea floor

A

Bathymetry

72
Q

Very level area of the deep ocean floor, usually lying at the foot of the continental rise

A

Abyssal Plain

73
Q

ocean margins the transition from ocean crust to continental crust

A

Continental Rise

74
Q

lower and upper parts of the bathymetric profile
from the deep ocean to the shelf. Relatively steep,
usually between about 2° and 7°

A

Continental Slope

75
Q
  • junction between the shelf and the slope

usually occurs at about 200m below sea level at present-day margins

A

Shelf Edge Break

76
Q

large areas of continental crust that are covered by seawater, which are mainly bordered by land masses and connected by straits to the oceans

A

Epicontinental Seas (epeiric seas)

77
Q

shelf area, down to 200m water depth

A

Neritic Zone

78
Q

corresponds to the continental slope and extends from 200m to 2000m water depth

A

Bathyal Zone

79
Q

ocean floor below 2000m. (can also be

applied to up to 5000m)

A

Abyssal Zone

80
Q

deepest parts of the oceans

A

Hadal Zone

81
Q

beach environment

A

Littoral Zone

82
Q

defined as the region of the shelf between the low-tide mark depth to which waves normally affect the sea bottom.

A

Shoreface

83
Q

depth to which waves normally affect the sea bottom

A

Fair Weather Wave Base

84
Q

higher energy waves generated by storms that

affect the sea bed

A

Storm Weather Wave Base

85
Q

deeper shelf area between the fair weather

and storm wave bases

A

Offshore Transition Zone

86
Q

region below storm wave base and extends out to

the shelf-edge break at around 200m depth

A

Offshore Zone

87
Q

water that is closest to the moon experiences the largest gravitational attraction and this creates a bulge of water

A

Tidal Bulge

88
Q

any point on the surface the level of the water will rise and fall twice a day as the two bulges are passed in each rotation.

A

Diurnal Tide

89
Q

a point on the Earth will pass under one high bulge and a slightly lower bulge 12 hours or so later

A

Diurnal Tide Inequality

90
Q

sun and moon are in line with the earth

A

Syzygy

91
Q

during the four weeks of the moon’s orbit, it is twice in line and twice perpendicular

A

Near-Spring Tidal Cycles

92
Q

occurring when the three bodies are in line. The highest tidal range; occurs near the times of the new and full moons.

A

Spring Tide

93
Q

The lowest tidal range, occurring near the times of

the first and third quarters of the Moon

A

Neap Tide

94
Q
  • caused by the elliptical nature of the earth’s orbit
    around the sun. At the spring (vernal) and autumn (Fall) equinoxes, the Earth is closest to the Sun and the
    gravitational effect is strongest.
A

Annual Tidal Cycle

95
Q

point of zero amplitude of one harmonic constituent of the tide

A

Amphidromic Cell

96
Q

rotational pattern of the tidal wave within amphidromic cells results in a flow of water that follows a circular or elliptical pattern

A

Rotary Tide

97
Q

seen in a single vertical section produced by alternating directions of migration of ripples or dunes under favourable circumstances.

• results from a tidal current flowing predominantly in one direction for a period of time, probably many years, followed by a change in the pattern of tidal flow that results in another period of opposite flow

A

Herringbone or Bipolar Cross Stratification

98
Q

seen in a single vertical section produced by alternating directions of migration of ripples or dunes under favourable circumstances.

• results from a tidal current flowing predominantly in one direction for a period of time, probably many years, followed by a change in the pattern of tidal flow that results in another period of opposite flow

A

Mud Drapes

99
Q

there is one dominant direction of tidal current the bedforms migrate in that direction producing unidirectional cross-stratification.

• bedforms can be modified by the reverse current, principally by the removal of the crest of a subaqueous dune.

• When the bedform recommences migration in the direction of the dominant flow the cross-strata build out from the eroded surface. This leaves a minor erosion
surface within the cross- stratification.

A

Reactivation Surface

100
Q

associated strong surface winds, typically in excess

of 100km, and may affect both land and marine environments

A

Storm

101
Q

Japanese for ‘harbour wave’ and refers to waves with periods of 103 to 104 seconds that are generated by
events such as subsea earthquakes, large volcanic eruptions and submarine landslides

A

Tsunami

102
Q

currents that are driven by contrasts in temperature and/or salinity

A

Thermo Haline Current

103
Q

wind-driven currents related to the global wind systems, which result from differences in air mass
temperatures combined with the Coriolis force

A

Geostrophic Current

104
Q

a dark green mineral that is found quite commonly in

marine sediments. Potassium-rich mica

A

Glauconite

105
Q

material made up of any of these distinctive, medium to

dark green minerals.

A

Glaucony

106
Q

sedimentary rocks that are enriched in phosphorus to a level where the bulk composition is over 15% P2O5

A

Phosphorite

107
Q

mudrock that typically contains 1–15% organic

carbon

A

Black Shale

108
Q

are evidence of the activity of organism

A

Trace Fossil

109
Q

tracks of walking animals, trails of worms, burrows of

molluscs and crustaceans

A

Ichnofauna

110
Q

formed in

a. soft sediment
b. hard substrate

A

a. Burrows

b. Boring

111
Q

smaller vertical tubes in sands

A

Skolithos

112
Q

crawling trail produced by a multilimbed organism. Provides very strong evidence that trilobites formed these features.

A

Cruziana

113
Q

Ichnofossil

a. resting traces
b. feeding traces
c. grazing traces
d. crawling, tracks and trails
e. dwelling structures, burrows

A

a. Cubichnia
b. Fodinichnia
c. Passichnia
d. Repichnia
e. Domichnia

114
Q

formed by organisms moving up to the surface, are common in settings where there is rapid sedimentation
by storms or turbidity currents

A

Escape Burrows

115
Q

Assemblages

a. Littoral Zone
b. Shelf
c. Bathyal Zone
d. Abyssal Zone

A

a. Skolithos
b. Cruziana
c. Zoophycos
d. Nereites

116
Q

Evidence of organisms disturbing sediment

A

Biotur

117
Q

Scale of Bioturbation Intensity

a. between 30% and 60%
b. a few discrete traces
c. less than 30%
d. over 90%
e. totally reworked
f. between 60% and 90%

A

a. Grade 3
b. Grade 1
c. Grade 2
d. Grade 4
e. Grade 6
f. Grade 5

118
Q

(a) forms if the rate of sedimentation is relatively slow
and a firmground forms (b)

(c) forms at even slower rates of sedimentation complete lithification of the sea floor occurs (d)

A

a. Firmground
b. Glossifungites
c. Hardground
d. Trypanites

119
Q

shallow region of high biogenic productivity

A

Carbonate Factory

120
Q

fundamental controlling factor in the formation of evaporite deposits

A

Climate

121
Q

if the platform is attached to a continental mass

A

Carbonate Shelf

122
Q

formed above a subsiding volcano island

A

Carbonate Atoll

123
Q

with gentle slope (<1⁰) down deep water with no break in slope

A

Carbonate Ramp

124
Q

Flat-topped with a sharp change in slope at the edge forming a steep margin

A

Rimmed or Nonrimmed Shelf

125
Q

are coastal bodies of water that have very limited connection to the open ocean only through a channel to the sea or via seepage through a barrier.

A

Lagoons

126
Q

an area of hypersaline shallow water that

precipitates evaporate minerals.

A

Saltern

127
Q

are sites of fine-grained sedimentation forming
layers of carbonate mudstone and wackestone with
some grainstone and packstone beds deposited as
washovers near the beach barrier.

A

Carbonate lagoons

128
Q

lies above the mean high water mark and is

only inundated by seawater under exceptional circumstances, such as very high tides and storm conditions

A

Supratidal Zone

129
Q

Arid Coast

A

Subkha

130
Q

are carbonate bodies built up mainly by framework- building benthic organisms such as corals

A

Reef

131
Q

carbonate build-ups that form

a. dome-shaped reefs
b. tabular shaped reed

A

a. Bioherms

b. Biostromes

132
Q

Low energy areas shelfward of the reef flat zone, where fine sediments winnowed from the reef settle out.

A

Back Reef

133
Q

Very shallow-water surface immediately shelfward of the reef crest.

A

Reef Crest

134
Q

Extends from the surf zone into deeper water (<100m) where growth of massive corals grades into sediments of the fore reef zone.

A

Reef Front

135
Q

Little or no light penetration

A

Fore-Reef

136
Q

are linear reef forms that parallel the shoreline, but lie at a distance of kilometres to tens of kilometres offshore: they create a back-reef lagoon area which is a
large area of shallow, low-energy sea

A

Barrier Reef

137
Q

are built out directly from the shoreline and lack an

extensive back-reef lagoonal area

A

Fringing Reef

138
Q

localised build-ups in shallow water areas such as

epicontinental seas, carbonate platforms and lagoons.

A

Patch Reef

139
Q

is a sediment body consisting of structureless or crudely bedded fine
crystalline carbonate.

A

Carbonate Mud Mounds

140
Q

are distinguished from lagoons in that they are basins

capable of accumulating hundreds of metres of evaporite sediment

A

Barred basin

141
Q

setting exists where a basin is well below sea level

but is only partly filled with evaporating seawater, which is periodically replenished.

A

shallow-water to deep-basin

142
Q

setting is one in which evaporites are deposited in salterns but continued subsidence of the basin allows a thick succession to be built up.

A

shallow-water to shallow-basin

143
Q

is a basin filled with hypersaline water in which
evaporite sediments are formed at the shallow margins and are redeposited by gravity flows into deeper parts of the basin. Normally graded beds generated by turbidites and poorly sorted deposits resulting from debris flows are evidence of redeposition

A

deep-water to deep-basin setting

144
Q

If the barred basin is completely enclosed the

water body will gradually shrink in volume and area. Most soluble salts in the basin center

A

Bullseye Pattern

145
Q
  • If equilibrium is reached between the inflow and the
    evaporative loss then stable conditions will exist across the basin and tens to hundreds of metres of a single mineral can be deposited in one place
A

Teardrop Pattern

146
Q

Poorly-sorted, clast-rich, muddy deposits, where the
clast are transported down slope.

  • Rock types are matrix-rich conglomerates
A

Debris Flow Deposit

147
Q

Are the most important process for transporting sand

to deep sea;

A

Turbidity Currents

148
Q

This is fine-grained material derived from the
platform and resedimented by suspension into the
slope and basinal environment.

A

Hemipelagic Carbonate

149
Q

Sediments is deposited by slow suspension of

material biochemically produced in surface waters

A

Pelagic Carbonate

150
Q

These deposits can originate from the reef, reef wall, or lower on the slope

A

Slump Deposit

151
Q

Sand is transported down steeps slopes by dispersive pressure.

  • Grain-to-grain interaction
A

Grain Flow Deposit