Tune Up Flashcards

Question

What happens to grips lubricated with rubbing alcohol after installation?

Answer 1

They will slip for a number of days until the alcohol evaporates.

Answer 2

Punch a hole in the ends and inflate them with an air compressor.

Answer 3

installation, in reverse.

Answer 4

5mm hex key.

Answer 5

You can cut them off.

Answer 6

Cover the opposite end of the handlebar while inflating.

Answer 7

To maintain or change the bike's direction by applying force

Answer 8

The front wheel changes direction

Answer 9

Handlebars, stems, and headsets

Answer 10

Remove the handlebar end plug

Answer 11

Use a thin screwdriver

Answer 12

Loosen the grip pinch bolts

Answer 13

Use an air compressor to blow them off

Answer 14

rubbing alcohol

Answer 15

Cut it off with a knife

Answer 16

Inject rubbing alcohol under the grip with a syringe

Answer 17

To make the simple process of steering possible

Answer 18

Cover the end of the handlebar with your hand

Answer 19

If the grip is shot

Answer 20

Squirt rubbing alcohol inside the grip ## Footnote Rubbing alcohol lubricates well and dries quickly, facilitating easier installation.

Answer 21

Lubricates well and dries quickly ## Footnote Water dries slowly, causing the grip to slip for a few days.

Answer 22

Cut off the closed end ## Footnote You may also want to shorten the grip to adjust to hand size or adapt to a twist shifter.

Answer 23

Scissors, tin snips, or a knife ## Footnote A groove may be present on some grips to indicate where to cut.

Answer 24

Hit the end of the grip with a mallet after installation ## Footnote This method creates a clean hole in the grip end.

Answer 25

They are shorter than standard grips ## Footnote This design is necessary because part of the hand sits on the twist grip.

Answer 26

Tighten the screws on the collar on each end ## Footnote This secures the grip in place.

Answer 27

True ## Footnote However, it is harmful to breathe and can set up permanently.

Answer 28

twist ## Footnote This helps in securing the grip on the handlebar.

Answer 29

It will start moving as the ends twist ## Footnote This indicates the grip is being successfully installed.

Answer 30

Loosen the bolts securing the stem to the fork steering tube, align the stem with the front wheel, and tighten the stem bolt(s) again.

Answer 31

Loosen the single vertical bolt on top of the stem about two turns and tap the top of the bolt with a hammer.

Answer 32

Loosen one, two, or three horizontal bolts pinching the stem around the steering tube.

Answer 33

Do not loosen the bolt on the top of the stem cap.

Answer 34

The headset is too loose.

Answer 35

Adjust the headset.

Answer 36

The headset is pitted and needs to be replaced.

Answer 37

The headset is too tight.

Answer 38

The front wheel should swing easily from side to side when you lean the bike or lift the front end.

Answer 39

Refer to the instructions in section 12-14.

Answer 40

Disc brakes stay cleaner as mud and water are thrown away from them by the tires, resulting in little drop-off in performance in wet conditions.

Answer 41

Hydraulic and mechanical (cable-actuated).

Answer 42

By pressure applied to one end of a column of non-compressible liquid.

Answer 43

Disc brakes require less maintenance because the tire does not drag mud into them.

Answer 44

A spacer or a chunk of corrugated cardboard.

Answer 45

At least the thickness of a dime (about 1.2mm).

Answer 46

Squeezing the lever, as it can push a caliper piston too far out.

Answer 47

The disc-brake calipers, both cable-actuated and hydraulic, and on hydraulic levers and hoses.

Answer 48

hydraulic.

Answer 49

Follow the directions in the chapter carefully.

Answer 50

2.5mm ## Footnote Some brakes provide a pad-wear gauge to assist in this measurement.

Answer 51

Digital caliper or micrometer ## Footnote This is necessary because the thickness change is minimal, specifically over 0.2mm.

Answer 52

Remove the wheel ## Footnote Some top-loading pads can be removed without removing the wheel.

Answer 53

To spread the pads apart ## Footnote This allows for easier removal of the pads.

Answer 54

Cotter pin or bolt ## Footnote This may include a threaded bolt or a pin with a retaining clip.

Answer 55

Sand them face down on a flat piece of drywall-sanding screen ## Footnote This allows material removed to fall through instead of being rubbed back onto the pad.

Answer 56

True ## Footnote This helps to avoid damaging the pads during the removal process.

Answer 57

Over 0.2mm removed from the rotor thickness ## Footnote This change is often subtle and requires precise measurement.

Answer 58

Pull a tab on the pad toward the center of the caliper slot ## Footnote This is often done from underneath the caliper and can be challenging.

Answer 59

Slip a plastic pad spacer or flat-head screwdriver between the pads ## Footnote This is done carefully to avoid damaging them.

Answer 60

Clean, check for pad wear, scoring, or glazing ## Footnote These checks are crucial to avoid damaging the rotor or compromising braking effectiveness.

Answer 61

Brakes fade ## Footnote This can lead to blue discoloration of the rotor and glazing of the pads, indicating breakdown of the resin.

Answer 62

Blue discoloration of the rotor and glazing of the pads ## Footnote Glazed pads must be discarded as their material has broken down.

Answer 63

Clean around the pistons with a Q-tip soaked in brake fluid ## Footnote This should be done before replacing the pads.

Answer 64

Install the new pads the way the old ones came out ## Footnote Left and right pads may differ, and it should be obvious if a pad is installed incorrectly.

Answer 65

Either onto a nub on the piston with a wire catch or magnetically ## Footnote The installation method may vary based on the specific brake model.

Answer 66

They may not snap back into place ## Footnote This is due to the piston being offset from the center of the cutaway for the pad.

Answer 67

Align the ears on the pads with the cotter hole ## Footnote If reversed, they will not line up properly.

Answer 68

It pushes the pads apart ## Footnote This allows for easier installation when making a sandwich of the new pads and the spring.

Answer 69

Buy pads meant for the exact make and model of the brake ## Footnote There are many shapes of disc-brake pads, and they are not interchangeable.

Answer 70

Metallic pads and resin pads ## Footnote The choice should be based on the type of riding you do.

Answer 71

They deal better with heat generated by high-speed descents ## Footnote This makes them suitable for aggressive riding styles.

Answer 72

They provide better modulation and control of wheel speed ## Footnote However, they wear out faster than metallic pads, especially in wet conditions.

Answer 73

They need to be burnished (or burned in or bedded in) ## Footnote This involves repeated braking to condition the pads.

Answer 74

You can damage them ## Footnote This prevents the pads from achieving their full performance potential.

Answer 75

To ensure full power and reduce squeal problems ## Footnote This process involves braking firmly and evenly without overheating the brakes.

Answer 76

20 to 40 stops ## Footnote The exact number can vary by manufacturer.

Answer 77

10-12 mph ## Footnote After initial braking, increase to 15-18 mph for subsequent stops.

Answer 78

Bringing the bike to a dead stop ## Footnote This helps maintain the effectiveness of the bed-in process.

Answer 79

The brake doesn't retract the pads fully ## Footnote This may indicate contamination that requires cleaning around the piston.

Answer 80

Square-cross-section O-ring seal ## Footnote This seal surrounds the waist of the piston.

Answer 81

Fluid is forced in behind the piston, causing it to move ## Footnote This movement is essential for braking action.

Answer 82

Push the pistons back in ## Footnote This may require removing the pads or using a spacer.

Answer 83

Plastic tire lever or flat-head screwdriver ## Footnote Ensure not to gouge the pads while doing this.

Answer 84

Plastic pad spacer ## Footnote This is important to maintain space between the pads.

Answer 85

Remove the pads first ## Footnote This allows for easier access to push the pistons back in.

Answer 86

ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE ## Footnote This refers to a specific brake model mentioned in the text.

Answer 87

The square seal twists out into the tapered section of the groove ## Footnote This action is crucial for the proper function of hydraulic brakes.

Answer 88

Dirt can inhibit piston retraction by: * Breaking the seal * Creating more friction around the sides of the piston ## Footnote Contamination can lead to increased maintenance issues.

Answer 89

Clean around the piston and lubricate it ## Footnote This helps maintain the seal and ensures proper function.

Answer 90

Remove the pads and use a plastic tire lever or box-end wrench to push the piston out for lubrication ## Footnote This procedure helps in maintaining brake performance.

Answer 91

You can crack the piston ## Footnote Using improper tools can lead to costly damage.

Answer 92

Open the bleed screw slightly while pushing the piston back, then close it immediately ## Footnote This prevents air from entering the hydraulic system.

Answer 93

To wipe off grime and ensure proper movement of the piston ## Footnote Proper lubrication is essential for the longevity of hydraulic components.

Answer 94

False ## Footnote This can exacerbate the problem by pushing dirt further under the seal.

Answer 95

A lever that is not firm when pulled and/or becomes more firm with repeated pumping.

Answer 96

Dirt getting past the seals due to usage in dirty conditions.

Answer 97

It will improve performance.

Answer 98

Patience and extreme cleanliness.

Answer 99

In a well-lighted area with clean tools.

Answer 100

A clean sheet to catch any dropped parts.

Answer 101

Observe the notes and cautions regarding DOT fluid.

Answer 102

Remove the wheel.

Answer 103

A spacer block.

Answer 104

To apply hydraulic pressure while keeping the pistons pushed back in their bores.

Answer 105

Fluid, which will ruin them.

Answer 106

Specific instructions that come with a brake's bleed kit.

Answer 107

To replace brake pads during the bleeding process ## Footnote The bleed block is installed to prevent the pistons from moving while the brake system is being bled.

Answer 108

Gas bubbles form in the hydraulic lines, leading to vapor lock ## Footnote Vapor lock prevents the caliper pistons from being pushed effectively.

Answer 109

Let go of the lever to cool the brake and replace the fluid if using DOT fluid ## Footnote With mineral oil, simply allow the brake to cool down.

Answer 110

DOT fluid can absorb water and dissolve paint, while mineral oil does not ## Footnote It is important to use the correct type of fluid as mixing them can damage seals.

Answer 111

Shimano bleed kit, syringe, clear tube, oil funnel, and plug ## Footnote These tools are essential for the bleeding procedure.

Answer 112

Rotate the brake lever to horizontal and secure it ## Footnote This ensures proper fluid flow during the bleeding process.

Answer 113

Use only fluid from a container that has never been opened ## Footnote Exposure to air can lower the boiling point of DOT fluid significantly.

Answer 114

boiling point ## Footnote Different DOT fluids are designed to operate within specific temperature ranges.

Answer 115

False ## Footnote Viscosity, purity, and boiling point can vary among different mineral oils and DOT fluids.

Answer 116

Clean them with rubbing alcohol ## Footnote This helps maintain braking performance.

Answer 117

A condition where the brake fluid boils and gas bubbles form, preventing braking ## Footnote It occurs when the caliper gets too hot during use.

Answer 118

3mm hex key

Answer 119

Install the bleed funnel

Answer 120

Shimano brake oil

Answer 121

Slightly open the caliper bleed screw

Answer 122

No more air bubbles appear in the funnel

Answer 123

Pull the syringe off of the clear tube

Answer 124

To collect oil and air bubbles

Answer 125

Open and close the caliper bleed screw

Answer 126

Tilt the brake lever up and down

Answer 127

Check the system and ensure proper brake operation

Answer 128

SRAM bleed kit

Answer 129

DOT 4 or DOT 5.1

Answer 130

Point each syringe up and push the plunger

Answer 131

Turn the pad-contact knob to the 'out' position

Answer 132

Torx T10 key

Answer 133

Refill and de-gas the syringes again

Answer 134

To free any bubbles sticking to the sides

Answer 135

Plug the funnel with the stopper

Answer 136

Zip-tie the lever around the handlebar overnight

Answer 137

Close the clamp on the lever syringe

Answer 138

Pull the brake lever to the handlebar and secure it with a strap or rubber band

Answer 139

To draw air bubbles up through the fluid in the syringe

Answer 140

Holding the brake lever to the bar, remove the band around it

Answer 141

Push the caliper syringe plunger in while slowly allowing the brake lever to open

Answer 142

Don't overtighten the tiny T10 bleed screw

Answer 143

Open the lever syringe clamp, turn the syringe upright, and firmly pull on its plunger

Answer 144

Lightly push the syringe plunger

Answer 145

Replace the lever bleed screw

Answer 146

Wipe it first, then spray it with water or isopropyl alcohol and wipe again

Answer 147

Squeeze the levers hard and look for fluid appearing around joints

Answer 148

To check for fluid leaks

Answer 149

Return them to previous settings

Answer 150

Pads glazed or improperly bedded-in, vibration, oil or road de-icer on rotor and pads ## Footnote Squealing can indicate several issues, including contamination or improper installation of brake components.

Answer 151

Flexing of cable-actuated brake arm, stretching of cable, compression of brake housing, insufficient coefficient of friction, oil and grime on discs and pads, hydraulic system leak or air in it ## Footnote Each of these factors can contribute to a decrease in braking efficiency.

Answer 152

Air in system, pad-contact adjustment out too far, excessive pad spacing ## Footnote These issues can lead to a feeling of excessive lever travel before brakes engage.

Answer 153

Cable too long, worn brake pads, excessive pad spacing ## Footnote Adjusting these factors can improve brake responsiveness.

Answer 154

Replace pads, true a bent rotor, tighten loose rotor, center caliper, try different brake pads, tighten caliper-mounting bolts, check suspension play ## Footnote These steps help address various disc brake issues.

Answer 155

Duct-tape a dowel-rod strut triangulating the brake-mount area ## Footnote If squealing stops, it may indicate a need for frame reinforcement.

Answer 156

Clean rotor with rubbing alcohol ## Footnote Using rubbing alcohol is essential to avoid damaging brake components.

Answer 157

Sand them facedown on drywall-sanding screen ## Footnote This technique helps reveal a clean layer of the pad.

Answer 158

Organic pads offer higher power; metallic pads offer greater durability ## Footnote Choosing the right type of pad depends on the specific needs of the rider.

Answer 159

PADS RUB ROTOR BECAUSE OF OFF-CENTER CALIPER, OVERLY TIGHT BRAKES, OR UNTRUE ROTOR ## Footnote This can lead to increased wear and decreased braking efficiency.

Answer 160

Cable or hydraulic pistons sticking ## Footnote Lubrication and cleaning can help restore proper function.

Answer 161

Mounting bolts on brake caliper and caliper adapter are loose ## Footnote Tightening these bolts is essential for safe braking.

Answer 162

Sounds like there is sand on the pads ## Footnote It often suggests contamination or wear that needs to be addressed.

Answer 163

Air in hydraulic brake system ## Footnote This issue requires checking for leaks and bleeding the system.

Answer 164

Causes of squealing include: * Pads glazed * Pads worn * No pad toe-in with flexy brake arms * Vibration causing squealing or howling * Front cantilever shudder ## Footnote Squealing often results from improper maintenance or installation issues.

Answer 165

Causes of low power include: * Sticking cable * Stretching of cable * Frayed cable * Compression of brake housing * Insufficient friction between pads and rim * Oil and grime on the rim and pads * Air in hydraulic rim brake * Poor pad alignment * High straddle-cable angle * Flexing seatstays or fork legs * Flexing of brake arms ## Footnote Low power can significantly affect braking performance.

Answer 166

Reasons for too much lever travel include: * Cable too long * Brake pads worn * Poor pad alignment * Air in hydraulic rim brake ## Footnote Check the cable length and pad condition to address this issue.

Answer 167

Pad drag can be indicated by: * One pad rubs * Both pads rub ## Footnote This can lead to reduced braking efficiency and increased wear.

Answer 168

Causes include: * Cable sticking * Sharp bends in cable housing * Frayed cable * Lip on top edge of pad ## Footnote Ensuring smooth cable operation is crucial for effective brake function.

Answer 169

A loose brake arm may rattle or clunk. ## Footnote Regular checks can prevent this issue from affecting performance.

Answer 170

Grinding noise may indicate: * Sounds like there is sand on the pads ## Footnote This often requires cleaning or replacing pads.

Answer 171

Air in hydraulic brake system ## Footnote This condition can lead to ineffective braking.

Answer 172

Steps include: * Check for leaks * Bleed the system ## Footnote Proper maintenance of hydraulic systems is essential for safety.

Answer 173

Replace pads or sand the surface of the pads. ## Footnote Worn pads significantly affect braking performance.

Answer 174

Align pads with rim and adjust the angle of brake arms and straddle cable. ## Footnote Proper alignment is critical for effective braking.

Answer 175

Cables transfer braking force from the levers to the wheels

Answer 176

The brakes will not work properly

Answer 177

The cable should be replaced

Answer 178

Offers easy adjustment of cable tension

Answer 179

shortened to keep the pads in close proximity to the rims

Answer 180

Back out the barrel adjuster by loosening its locknut and turning it counterclockwise

Answer 181

Tighten the locknut against the lever body while holding the barrel adjuster

Answer 182

Tighten the cable at the brake

Answer 183

Replace the cable

Answer 184

Molybdenum disulfide grease

Answer 185

Open the brake, pull each section of cable housing out, and rub lubricant on the cable

Answer 186

Check that the lever cannot be squeezed all the way to the grip

Answer 187

Tighten the locknut clockwise against the lever body to lock in the adjustment

Answer 188

Replace the cable and possibly the cable housing

Answer 189

To adjust the distance for easier reach of the levers ## Footnote It is particularly useful for individuals with small hands.

Answer 190

It moves the cable end in or out relative to the lever pivot, affecting leverage and cable pull ## Footnote Closer cable position to pivot increases leverage but reduces cable pull.

Answer 191

It indicates the position with the weakest leverage ## Footnote This is where the cable head is farthest from the pivot.

Answer 192

A long screw for leverage adjustment ## Footnote This allows for fine-tuning of the cable position relative to the pivot.

Answer 193

By installing, relocating, or removing a series of inserts ## Footnote This provides flexibility in adjusting the leverage settings.

Answer 194

A 3mm hex key ## Footnote This is used to loosen a small bolt for adjusting the lever arm.

Answer 195

'L' indicates lowest leverage and 'H' indicates highest leverage ## Footnote 'L' is where the cable path is farthest from the lever pivot, and 'H' is where it is closest.

Answer 196

It adjusts the cable-head position relative to the pivot ## Footnote This affects the leverage by changing the distance of the cable path from the pivot.

Answer 197

Mentionally low leverage ## Footnote This is necessary due to the high leverage of the long brake arms.

Answer 198

Adjusted to the lowest leverage ## Footnote This means starting with the cable passing farthest from the lever pivot.

Answer 199

True ## Footnote This can result in improper braking and potential accidents.

Answer 200

It allows for maximum performance with minimum application effort ## Footnote However, the lever must be positioned for forefinger reach to avoid excessive braking.

Answer 201

Less power and mechanical advantage ## Footnote A hard feel means the rider is doing most of the work.

Answer 202

More leverage and less work required to stop the bike ## Footnote This allows for easier stopping.

Answer 203

Loss of some pad travel ## Footnote This occurs because the cable hook is moved closer to the lever pivot.

Answer 204

Inboard on the handlebar so the tip is under the forefinger ## Footnote This allows for better grip and relaxed arms while braking.

Answer 205

Three fingers (and thumb) on the handlebar, pulling the lever with the forefinger ## Footnote Pulling on the end of the lever maximizes leverage.

Answer 206

Trigger shift levers with a separate band clamp ## Footnote The band clamp can restrict the lever's movement, affecting braking efficiency.

Answer 207

Position the trigger shifter outboard of the brake lever ## Footnote This may help improve function and finger clearance.

Answer 208

The bends in a riser bar may be too far outboard ## Footnote This can prevent the shifter and brake lever from moving inboard sufficiently.

Answer 209

more leverage

Answer 210

False ## Footnote A hard feel indicates less mechanical advantage and requires more effort.

Answer 211

Maintenance operation ## Footnote It is not a repair operation.

Answer 212

When there are broken strands, kinks, or fraying ## Footnote This should be done before cables break.

Answer 213

Replace the housings ## Footnote This ensures proper function and aesthetics.

Answer 214

At least as much length as the ones being replaced

Answer 215

Cables that stretch minimally and housings that do not compress ## Footnote Indexed housing is protected by an external vinyl sheath.

Answer 216

Parallel steel strands of thin wire ## Footnote This is different from brake housings which use steel coil.

Answer 217

Cable crimp caps and tubular cable-housing end ferrules ## Footnote Caps prevent fraying and ferrules prevent kinking.

Answer 218

To prevent dirt and water entry into the housing

Answer 219

Park IR-1 or IR-1.2 magnetic internal-routing tool ## Footnote If not available, thin plastic tubing can be used as a guide.

Answer 220

Slide a long piece of tubing onto the old cable as a guide for the new cable

Answer 221

Multiple crosses of the cables inside the down tube ## Footnote This can cause undue friction and misoperation.

Answer 222

A special cable-housing cutter ## Footnote Standard side cutters are not suitable.

Answer 223

Cut to the same lengths as old ones or ensure smooth curves ## Footnote Avoid sharp bends, especially for seatstay cables.

Answer 224

Allow enough length for the derailleur to swing freely

Answer 225

The cut should be square

Answer 226

Disconnect the old cable at the derailleur and clip off the end cap.

Answer 227

L position inside the indicator window.

Answer 228

Paper clip or thin knife.

Answer 229

Remove the large plastic Phillips screw plug.

Answer 230

Disconnect the old cable at the derailleur and clip off the end cap.

Answer 231

SRAM trigger levers.

Answer 232

Open each plastic sleeve end with a sharp tool such as an awl.

Answer 233

Guide the cable through each housing segment and cable guide.

Answer 234

Disconnect the old cable at the derailleur and clip off the end cap.

Answer 235

Replace the lever cover.

Answer 236

cable-access hole.

Answer 237

Moving the brake lever laterally downward.

Answer 238

Moving the brake lever laterally upward.

Answer 239

External cables.

Answer 240

To cover the cable-access hole.

Answer 241

Push the old cable free

Answer 242

Snap the head of the new cable into the cable hook

Answer 243

Shift the lever to its maximum cable pull position

Answer 244

To push the cable out through the barrel adjuster

Answer 245

Close the cover and tighten the screw gently

Answer 246

Ensure each housing segment has a ferrule on the end

Answer 247

A plastic cover over the wire-end hook

Answer 248

Turn it so that its cable slot is lined up with the slot in the shifter body

Answer 249

Install the new cable by slipping the cable head into the cable hook

Answer 250

Buy the thin double-headed cables and housings from Shimano

Answer 251

The worm spring will become dislodged

Answer 252

Move the brake lever away from the shifter

Answer 253

A 2.5mm or 3mm hex key

Answer 254

Recycle or otherwise discard the old cable

Answer 255

To help feed it through the adjuster and into the end of the cable housing

Answer 256

Tighten the little pinch bolt on the collar gently

Answer 257

Ensure each housing segment has a ferrule on the end

Answer 258

Run the cable through each of the housing segments or through the frame until you reach the cable-fixing bolt on the derailleur.

Answer 259

Click the rear shifter to the setting that releases the most cable.

Answer 260

Tighten the barrel adjusters all the way, then back it out one turn.

Answer 261

A 4mm or 5mm hex key, a Torx T25 key, or an 8mm box wrench.

Answer 262

On the cog that the derailleur return spring pulls it to.

Answer 263

On the largest cog.

Answer 264

Shift the chain to the inner chainring.

Answer 265

Place the cable into its groove under the cable-fixing bolt while pulling the cable taut with pliers.

Answer 266

Cable-housing end ferrules with rubber seals to keep contamination out.

Answer 267

Clip cables about 1-2 cm past the cable-clamp bolts.

Answer 268

Some models require housing to run the full length of the cable to the front derailleur.

Answer 269

Remove the top and pour in the solvent up to the fill line.

Answer 270

Reinstall the top so that the chain runs through it.

Answer 271

Turn the bike's crank backward to run the chain through the unit's brushes.

Answer 272

Let the solvent settle, decant the clear portion, and discard the sludge.

Answer 273

Repeatedly disassembling the chain weakens it.

Answer 274

Chain breakage due to conditions and the narrow width of higher-speed chains.

Answer 275

Shifting the front derailleur while pedaling hard.

Answer 276

Expands the size of the rivet hole, allowing the rivet to pop out more easily.

Answer 277

To prevent problems when reassembling chains.

Answer 278

* SRAM * Wippermann * Taya * KMC * FSA * Shimano

Answer 279

Drop the chain into a jar or water bottle half-filled with solvent.

Answer 280

Leaving the chain to soak for extended periods.

Answer 281

Every 500 to 1,000 miles.

Answer 282

It concentrates the load on individual gear teeth, causing them to wear out.

Answer 283

Using a chain length gauge.

Answer 284

To check chain elongation at various spots along the chain.

Answer 285

The chain needs to be replaced.

Answer 286

Chains running on aluminum and titanium cogs.

Answer 287

It helps extend the life of chainrings and cogs.

Answer 288

[deformed teeth]

Answer 289

Rubber gloves and a respirator meant for volatile organic compounds.

Answer 290

A chain hook with two hooked prongs ## Footnote This feature allows easier insertion of a connector pin or assembly of a master link.

Answer 291

Feedback Sports ## Footnote Feedback Sports also offers this gauge under the KMC brand.

Answer 292

½ inch ## Footnote This measurement is used to assess chain wear.

Answer 293

12 links ## Footnote Each complete link consists of an inner and an outer pair of plates.

Answer 294

Replace the chain ## Footnote It's also recommended to replace if it's 12/6 inches or greater.

Answer 295

1 percent ## Footnote This equates to ½ inch in 50 complete link pairs.

Answer 296

Place any link over the back teeth on a chain tool ## Footnote This applies to all standard derailleur chains except those with a master link.

Answer 297

Leave 1mm of rivet protruding inward ## Footnote This allows for reassembly of the chain.

Answer 298

Save them in your spare-tire bag ## Footnote This provides spares in case of chain breakage on the trail.

Answer 299

Compare it with the old chain or use overlap method ## Footnote The overlap method involves wrapping the chain around the big chainring and biggest cog.

Answer 300

One and a half more links ## Footnote This is necessary for systems with a huge rear cog (40-tooth or larger).

Answer 301

They have a system to vary the distance from the crank to the rear hub ## Footnote This allows for chain tension adjustment.

Answer 302

Sliding rear dropouts ## Footnote These systems offer a more elegant solution for varying drivetrain length.

Answer 303

False ## Footnote Master-link-equipped chains can be opened by hand.

Answer 304

Replace it ## Footnote This comparison helps assess chain wear.

Answer 305

To tension the chain by rotating the crank toward or away from the rear hub ## Footnote The eccentric cylinder clamps into the oversized bottom-bracket shell and is adjusted using pinch bolts, setscrews, or wedge bolts.

Answer 306

By sliding the wheel or sliding dropouts all the way forward or rotating the eccentric bottom bracket ## Footnote This positioning ensures the bottom-bracket spindle is close to the back of the bottom-bracket shell.

Answer 307

The chain should not be taut like a drumhead or so loose that it can fall off ## Footnote Excess tension creates pedaling resistance and premature wear, while excessive slack can cause the chain to derail.

Answer 308

A chain tensioner that pulls a slack chain taut, often spring-loaded with a single jockey wheel or roller ## Footnote It typically bolts into the rear-derailleur hanger on the dropout.

Answer 309

To keep the chain tight by pushing up or down on the chain coming to the bottom of the rear cog ## Footnote The tensioner may use two springs to allow for different orientations of the roller.

Answer 310

A device that clamps around the chainstay and has a roller to vary the pressure on the chain ## Footnote This clamp can be slid back and forth to adjust the tension applied to the chain.

Answer 311

It should maintain enough chain length so that the jockey wheels are not fully stretched in a straight line ## Footnote This setup prevents excessive slack while ensuring proper tension.

Answer 312

Shift into small-small by placing the chain on the smallest cog in the rear and the smallest chainring in front ## Footnote This setup prepares the chain for proper routing through the derailleur.

Answer 313

Through the rear derailleur, starting with the pulley farthest from the derailleur body ## Footnote This pulley will be the bottom pulley once the chain is taut.

Answer 314

To ensure proper routing before connecting the chain ## Footnote This step is crucial for the overall function of the drivetrain.

Answer 315

SRAM PowerLink, SRAM Power Lock, Shimano Quick Link, FSA Drive Link, Lickton's SuperLink, KMC Missing Link ## Footnote These links function similarly in connecting and disconnecting chains.

Answer 316

Two symmetrical link halves with a single pin on each and a keyhole in the center ## Footnote Each plate tapers into a slot on the end opposite the pin.

Answer 317

They are designed to be non-openable but can be opened with master-link pliers ## Footnote Some links were recalled in late 2009.

Answer 318

Put the pin of each half of the link through the hole in each end of the chain ## Footnote One pin goes down and the other goes up.

Answer 319

Pull the links close together and insert each pin into the keyhole in the opposite plate

Answer 320

Convex edges must face inward toward the sprocket teeth

Answer 321

Squeeze the master-link plates toward each other and push the chain ends toward each other ## Footnote This brings the pins to the center hole in each plate.

Answer 322

Master-link pliers

Answer 323

It can be hard to open due to a lack of sufficient grip ## Footnote Alternative methods include using clothespins or Vise-Grip pliers.

Answer 324

Its link plates are not symmetrical, requiring specific orientation

Answer 325

The taller convex edge should be away from the chainring or cog

Answer 326

The convex edge may cause the chain to skip under load

Answer 327

heart shape

Answer 328

When the chain is on the top of the cog or chainring

Answer 329

The convex link edge should face outward from the chain loop

Answer 330

It should run over the spacers on the smallest cogs without lifting the chain

Answer 331

Connect the chain ends with the plate that has two rivets sticking out of it

Answer 332

Flex the plate with the protruding rivets so that the ends of the rivets are closer together

Answer 333

Flex the master link so that the pins come closer together

Answer 334

oval holes

Answer 335

To scrub the chain with a solvent while it is on the bike

Answer 336

Clear plastic

Answer 337

Two or three

Answer 338

Allows cleaning the chain without removing it from the bike

Answer 339

Shortens the chain's life significantly

Answer 340

It allows for easier separation of the chain

Answer 341

Nontoxic, citrus-based solvent

Answer 342

Wear gloves and glasses, ensure good ventilation

Answer 343

Used diesel fuel

Answer 344

Citrus chain solvents

Answer 345

It can displace the oil from inside the rollers

Answer 346

The chain may dry out and become squeaky

Answer 347

Straightforward

Answer 348

Remove the top and pour in the solvent up to the fill line.

Answer 349

Place the chain-cleaning unit up against the bottom of the chain.

Answer 350

Turn the bike's crank backward.

Answer 351

To clean the chain.

Answer 352

Remove the unit from the chain.

Answer 353

Lubricate the chain as in 4-1.

Answer 354

Let the solvent settle, decant the clear portion, and discard the sludge.

Answer 355

Wipe it down frequently, lubricate it, and wipe off the excess lube.

Answer 356

Before every ride.

Answer 357

Softens it, which is then driven out of the chain when riding.

Answer 358

The chain will pick up new gunk.

Answer 359

Grab the chain with a rag.

Answer 360

Between the bottom of the chaining and the rear-derailleur lower jockey wheel.

Answer 361

Turn the crank backward a number of revolutions.

Answer 362

Rotate the rag to present a cleaner section to the chain.

Answer 363

Rubber gloves, a rag, and some chain lube.

Answer 364

Put on gloves, wipe and lube the chain.

Answer 365

Chainrings, cogs, front derailleur, and jockey wheels.

Answer 366

Remove the old brake lever and shifter

Answer 367

Put the right shifter on the right side

Answer 368

Slide the grip back into position

Answer 369

Rotate the brake lever to the position you like

Answer 370

Tighten the brake-lever fixing bolt

Answer 371

Click the shifter to release the maximum amount of cable

Answer 372

Unbolt the old shift lever from the brake-lever body

Answer 373

Exactly as the old one was positioned

Answer 374

Install the cable

Answer 375

On the tip of the bar end with a 2mm hex key

Answer 376

Remove the old shifter

Answer 377

Replace the brake lever

Answer 378

Loosen and slide the brake lever inward

Answer 379

Squeeze the two tabs together to release the Half Pipe retaining washer

Answer 380

Tighten the bar end and brake lever in the positions you want

Answer 381

In the position that is comfortable for you

Answer 382

Allows easy access to the cable barrel adjuster and free cable travel

Answer 383

Attachment to various MatchMaker clamps

Answer 384

Pointing inward

Answer 385

Plastic washer

Answer 386

No, it is integrated within the shifter

Answer 387

The plastic washer or the grip

Answer 388

Either a 2.5mm or 3mm hex key

Answer 389

Remove the bar end, grip, brake lever, and old shifter

Answer 390

[replacement shifter]

Answer 391

To ensure proper installation and prevent seizing ## Footnote This is a standard practice to enhance the ease of future adjustments.

Answer 392

Off ## Footnote This is important for derailleurs equipped with a clutch lever switch.

Answer 393

Rotate back (clockwise) so the b-screw is behind the flat on the derailleur hanger ## Footnote This applies to most derailleurs except for certain models lacking a b-screw.

Answer 394

8-10 N-m ## Footnote This torque range ensures the derailleur is securely mounted.

Answer 395

That it is the correct length ## Footnote Refer to sections 4-8 to 4-11 for guidance on chain length.

Answer 396

5mm hex key, Torx T25, or 8mm box wrench ## Footnote These tools allow for secure attachment of the cable.

Answer 397

They mount to the axle of the rear hub instead of the dropout derailleur hanger ## Footnote This design is intended for enhanced performance in rough, gravity-riding conditions.

Answer 398

Shadow design and removable b-link ## Footnote The removable b-link allows for direct mounting after removal.

Answer 399

False ## Footnote Some inexpensive derailleurs feature a nonadjustable tab instead.

Answer 400

Grease the derailleur's mounting bolt threads

Answer 401

Follow the adjustment procedure described in the next section

Answer 402

Install the rear wheel into the dropouts and push the axle through it from the nondrive side.

Answer 403

Grease the threaded, drive-side end of the axle.

Answer 404

Ensure that the derailleur's end stopper is in the dropout slot adjacent to the hub axle and that the b-screw is behind the dropout-hanger tab.

Answer 405

Make sure that the chain is the correct length.

Answer 406

5mm hex key, Torx T25, or 8mm box wrench.

Answer 407

To stop the derailleur so that the lower pivot cannot hit the chainstay.

Answer 408

Lubricate or replace the chain.

Answer 409

To prevent damaging the frame, rear wheel, or derailleur by shifting into the spokes or jamming the chain.

Answer 410

The outward movement of the rear derailleur.

Answer 411

It is usually the upper of the two screws and may be labeled.

Answer 412

Adjust the cable tension or the high-gear limit screw.

Answer 413

Loosen the high-gear limit screw one-quarter turn at a time until the chain drops quickly.

Answer 414

The inward movement of the rear derailleur into the spokes.

Answer 415

Check which limit screw is being engaged by the derailleur.

Answer 416

Shift the chain to the inner chainring on the front

Answer 417

Shift the rear derailleur to the largest cog gently

Answer 418

Tighten the low-gear limit screw

Answer 419

Loosen the low-gear limit screw one-quarter turn

Answer 420

Ensure the cable tension is not too high

Answer 421

Turn the barrel adjuster clockwise or loosen the cable-fixing bolt

Answer 422

Whether the derailleur moves to the proper gear with each click

Answer 423

Shift the rear derailleur to the smallest rear cog

Answer 424

Increase the tension in the cable by turning the barrel adjuster counterclockwise

Answer 425

Retighten the barrel adjusters and pull slack out of the cable

Answer 426

Decrease the cable tension by turning the barrel adjuster clockwise

Answer 427

Precise and quick movement of the chain

Answer 428

It should shift easily on all but the largest one or two cogs

Answer 429

Derailleur performance will worsen as you ride

Answer 430

Apply anti-seize compound on the threads

Answer 431

Cable tension is too high in large cogs and too low in small cogs

Answer 432

Create a shim from aluminum to adjust the spacing

Answer 433

0.1mm thick

Answer 434

Try adding another beer-can shim

Answer 435

To remove slack in the cable and ensure the derailleur moves with the shift lever immediately ## Footnote Proper cable tension is crucial for effective shifting.

Answer 436

Tighten the cable by turning the cable barrel adjuster counterclockwise or adjusting the cable-fixing bolt ## Footnote This ensures better responsiveness in shifting.

Answer 437

About 6mm ## Footnote This gap helps maintain shifting precision.

Answer 438

The position of the derailleur against the derailleur-hanger tab ## Footnote Proper adjustment can improve shifting performance.

Answer 439

With the chain on the middle chainring and largest cog, the chain gap should be 1 to 1¼ links ## Footnote One link is a complete male-female link pair.

Answer 440

5-6mm ## Footnote This gap ensures optimal shifting for Shimano systems.

Answer 441

8-9mm ## Footnote This adjustment is necessary for proper chain alignment.

Answer 442

They specify a chain gap of 15mm ## Footnote The design helps maintain a constant chain gap across all cogs.

Answer 443

To control chain bounce on rough terrain ## Footnote Increasing tension brings the upper jockey wheel closer to the cogs.

Answer 444

Adjust the clutch instead ## Footnote This is more effective for minimizing chain bounce.

Answer 445

False ## Footnote Disassembly is required for this complex adjustment.

Answer 446

derailleur's position against the derailleur-hanger tab

Answer 447

It starts making noise or bumps against each successive tooth ## Footnote This indicates that the chain gap is too small.

Answer 448

It controls chain bounce ## Footnote This is achieved by applying pressure on the chain through the jockey wheels.

Answer 449

It allows disassembly of the pivot without disconnecting the derailleur from the cable and chain. ## Footnote This feature simplifies maintenance but it's still recommended to remove the derailleur first.

Answer 450

A 2mm hex key. ## Footnote This is necessary to access the pivot assembly.

Answer 451

Pull the jockey cage away from the spring and move the spring to the next spring hole to increase tension. ## Footnote This adjustment helps in fine-tuning the derailleur's performance.

Answer 452

There is no setscrew on the lower-knuckle housing. ## Footnote This makes the adjustment process more complicated compared to newer models.

Answer 453

Remove the tall stopscrew that prevents the jockey cage from twisting all the way around. ## Footnote This step allows access to the spring for adjustments.

Answer 454

The derailleur or derailleur hanger on the frame dropout may be bent. ## Footnote Checking for bends is crucial in troubleshooting shifting problems.

Answer 455

It increases chain retention but makes downshifting heavier and harder for multi-shifting. ## Footnote This trade-off is important for performance in different riding conditions.

Answer 456

Use the clutch lever switch located atop the clutch housing. ## Footnote This switch allows for quick adjustments based on riding conditions.

Answer 457

Get a new cover to prevent the clutch from filling with water and dirt. ## Footnote A missing cover can lead to rapid failure of the clutch mechanism.

Answer 458

Not exceeding 0.25 N-m of torque. ## Footnote This low torque prevents damage to the adjustment mechanism.

Answer 459

Digital or beam-type torque wrench, or a clicker-type torque wrench. ## Footnote Using the right tool ensures accurate adjustments.

Answer 460

Set it to 4 N-m. ## Footnote This setting helps determine the right clutch torque before final adjustments.

Answer 461

Increase the torque and do this trial and error in an increasing direction.

Answer 462

3.5-5.4 N-m

Answer 463

Gently turn the clutch adjuster screw with the 2mm hex key clockwise.

Answer 464

Turn the clutch adjuster screw counterclockwise.

Answer 465

There must be grease on the clutch shaft or the cam is in the wrong position; overhaul the clutch to fix it.

Answer 466

Adjustment-screw cover

Answer 467

Line up the notches on the cover and the tabs on the housing, then turn the cover clockwise until its central rib is parallel to the face of the clutch housing.

Answer 468

5mm hex key, Torx T25, or 8mm box wrench ## Footnote These tools are used on the band-clamp bolt for position adjustments.

Answer 469

1-2mm ## Footnote This measurement is approximately 1/16-1/8 inch.

Answer 470

Deflate the rear shock and swing the swingarm up and down ## Footnote This ensures the derailleur cage will not hit the chainring.

Answer 471

Forcing the derailleur out to the high-gear position ## Footnote It should be left in place during the height adjustment step.

Answer 472

Parallel to the chainrings ## Footnote This is checked by sighting from above when the bike is in high gear.

Answer 473

Stop the derailleur from throwing the chain to the inside or outside of the chainrings ## Footnote They are usually labeled L for low gear and H for high gear.

Answer 474

False ## Footnote The low-gear screw is usually closer to the frame.

Answer 475

out a bit ## Footnote This applies to some derailleur models where the cage flares wider at the tail.

Answer 476

When on the inner chainring and largest cog ## Footnote The tail of the inner cage should be a bit in from parallel with the plane of the frame.

Answer 477

Trial-and-error method ## Footnote Shift the chain to the inner ring and tighten one of the limit screws to observe the movement of the front derailleur.

Answer 478

Shift back and forth between the middle and inner chainrings ## Footnote This helps in assessing the chain's movement relative to the inner chainring.

Answer 479

Tighten the low-gear limit screw one-quarter turn ## Footnote Then try shifting again to check the adjustment.

Answer 480

Loosen it counterclockwise one-quarter turn ## Footnote Repeat the shift to see if the adjustment has improved the chain's movement.

Answer 481

Ensure it is not preventing the derailleur from reaching the inner limit screw ## Footnote Adjusting cable tension may require turning the shifter barrel adjuster clockwise.

Answer 482

Shift the chain back and forth between the middle and outer chainrings ## Footnote This helps in assessing the chain's movement relative to the outer chainring.

Answer 483

Tighten the high-gear limit screw one-quarter turn ## Footnote After tightening, repeat the shift to check if the adjustment is effective.

Answer 484

Loosen the high-gear limit screw counterclockwise one-quarter turn ## Footnote Repeat the shift after loosening to assess improvement.

Answer 485

Remove any excess cable slack ## Footnote This can be done by turning the barrel adjuster counterclockwise.

Answer 486

The chain should shift smoothly and repeatedly from the middle to the inner chaining ## Footnote This ensures effective shifting performance.

Answer 487

The derailleur should start to move as soon as you move the shifter ## Footnote This responsiveness is essential for proper shifting.

Answer 488

False ## Footnote This adjustment will work for both indexed and friction shifters.

Answer 489

Increase spring tension by turning the cam screw clockwise ## Footnote This adjustment is applicable for front derailleurs with a cam screw.

Answer 490

The chainline discussion in the troubleshooting section ## Footnote This may help diagnose and resolve persistent shifting issues.

Answer 491

The chaining teeth for wear, chaining bolts for tightness, and chainings for trueness

Answer 492

They have much taller teeth for improved chain retention

Answer 493

Between fat and thin teeth

Answer 494

The chainring needs to be replaced

Answer 495

A worn chain rapidly wears the teeth into a hook shape

Answer 496

Don't be deceived by seemingly erratic tooth shapes designed for shifting

Answer 497

Lift the chain from the top of the chaining and check how far it separates

Answer 498

Try bending it back carefully with pliers or an adjustable wrench

Answer 499

Teeth reluctant to let go of the chain

Answer 500

Ensure bolts are tight by turning them clockwise while holding the nut

Answer 501

5mm hex key or Torx T30 key and a two-pronged chainring-nut tool

Answer 502

Wobbling back and forth relative to the plane of the front derailleur

Answer 503

Adjust the bottom bracket

Answer 504

Straightened with an adjustable wrench

Answer 505

Unscrew the chaining bolts

Answer 506

The outer chainring's protruding pin must line up with the crankarm

Answer 507

Serious back-and-forth wobble after installing a new chainring

Answer 508

Away from the spider arm tabs

Answer 509

The shift ramps will not work

Answer 510

Reposition the front derailleur for proper chainring clearance ## Footnote Refer to Chapters 5 and 6 for detailed instructions on repositioning the front derailleur.

Answer 511

Granny gear

Answer 512

5mm hex key or Torx T30 wrench

Answer 513

Under the crank-arm

Answer 514

Lube and tighten the bolts

Answer 515

Cranks that come on and off as a set or are not removable

Answer 516

Slip-on spider system

Answer 517

Special lockring tool

Answer 518

Chainrings riveted to the crank or to each other

Answer 519

Either the entire crank or the chaining set

Answer 520

Replace the crankarm

Answer 521

Go ride your bike

Answer 522

Remove the jockey wheels by taking out the bolts with a 2.5mm or 3mm hex key ## Footnote Catch the parts as they fall.

Answer 523

Wipe all parts clean with a rag ## Footnote A solvent is usually not necessary but can be used.

Answer 524

If the teeth on the jockey wheels are broken or worn off ## Footnote This indicates that the wheels are no longer functioning properly.

Answer 525

To ensure smooth operation and prevent wear ## Footnote Grease should be applied over each bolt, sleeve, and inside each jockey wheel.

Answer 526

The larger part of the cage plate should be at the bottom jockey wheel ## Footnote Some Shimano jockey wheels have a rotation-direction arrow for guidance.

Answer 527

Remove the jockey wheels by taking out the bolts with a 2.5mm or 3mm hex key ## Footnote Catch the parts as they fall.

Answer 528

A single-edge razor blade or box-cutter knife ## Footnote This should be done carefully to avoid damage.

Answer 529

Use a toothbrush and citrus-based solvent ## Footnote Wear gloves and glasses to protect skin and eyes.

Answer 530

Blow the solvent out with compressed air or a tire pump, and allow the parts to dry ## Footnote Ensures that no solvent remains in the bearing.

Answer 531

Replace the covers ## Footnote This seals the bearing and ensures it is lubricated.

Answer 532

Orient the inner cage plate properly ## Footnote The larger part of the cage plate should be at the bottom jockey wheel.

Answer 533

Clean the derailleur as well as you can with a rag. Be sure to get in between the parallelogram plates.

Answer 534

Drip chain lube on both ends of every pivot pin.

Answer 535

Grease the spring contacts. If there is a clothes-pin-type spring in the parallelogram, put a dab of grease where the spring end slides along the underside of the outer parallelogram plate.

Answer 536

Clothes-pin-type spring

Answer 537

They are not designed to be disassembled by the consumer.

Answer 538

Squirting a little chain lube inside every now and then.

Answer 539

You'll need to get a new shifter unit.

Answer 540

The brake lever.

Answer 541

Just bolt the new Rapidfire shifter to the brake lever.

Answer 542

You will be replacing the entire hydraulic brake master-cylinder and shifter-lever unit.

Answer 543

[new shifter unit]

Answer 544

[hydraulic brake master-cylinder and shifter-lever unit]

Answer 545

Chain jams between small cog and frame ## Footnote This issue often leads to shifting problems.

Answer 546

Chain falls between spokes and large cog ## Footnote This can cause significant damage to the derailleur and wheel.

Answer 547

Tighten cable ## Footnote Reference steps 5-2e and 5-2d for detailed instructions.

Answer 548

Turn high-gear limit screw clockwise ## Footnote See step 5-2b for more details.

Answer 549

Tighten cable ## Footnote Follow step 5-2e or 5-2d for guidance.

Answer 550

Check derailleur-hanger alignment ## Footnote Refer to step 17-5 for alignment procedures.

Answer 551

Replace with a longer one ## Footnote A short chain can lead to shifting issues.

Answer 552

Replace cage or derailleur ## Footnote See step 5-40 for more details on replacement.

Answer 553

Tighten cable ## Footnote Reference step 5-2e for more details.

Answer 554

Overhaul derailleur clutch ## Footnote Refer to step 5-36 for detailed instructions.

Answer 555

Chain falls off to outside ## Footnote This can disrupt shifting and chain alignment.

Answer 556

Check derailleur position ## Footnote Detail can be found in step 5-5a.

Answer 557

Turn low-gear limit screw clockwise ## Footnote See step 5-5c for specific instructions.

Answer 558

Shifting sluggish to big chainring ## Footnote This can indicate misalignment of the derailleur.

Answer 559

Loosen cable ## Footnote Refer to step 5-5e for more details.

Answer 560

inner cage plate ## Footnote Proper adjustment is crucial for smooth shifting.

Answer 561

Turn high-gear limit screw counterclockwise ## Footnote Follow step 5-5d for guidance.

Answer 562

Replace or lubricate cable ## Footnote This can improve shifting performance.

Answer 563

Removing it from the frame every few months

Answer 564

Wipe down, regrease, dry out and grease the inside of the frame's seat tube

Answer 565

To keep it clean and moving freely for adjustability

Answer 566

It can get stuck in the frame

Answer 567

A very nasty and potentially serious problem

Answer 568

Wipe down, regrease, and dry out the seatpost and seat tube

Answer 569

It can rust out from the inside

Answer 570

stuck in the frame

Answer 571

Section 14-8

Answer 572

Section 14-13

Answer 573

Check the seatpost clamp bolts and reestablish saddle position and tilt ## Footnote If the clamping mechanism is damaged, replace the post

Answer 574

Worn keys or guide blocks in the dropper post ## Footnote Overhaul the seatpost and replace the keys or guide blocks

Answer 575

A stuck seatpost ## Footnote Follow specific instructions to avoid damaging the frame

Answer 576

Smooth leather or plastic moving against metal parts or grit in rail attachments ## Footnote Lubrication can help eliminate the noise

Answer 577

Greasing or powdering the contact area with talcum ## Footnote Roughing up the leather at contact points can also help

Answer 578

In the three points where the rails are inserted into the plastic shell of the saddle ## Footnote This helps if grit is causing noise

Answer 579

Movement of the clamp holding the saddle or movement of the shaft against the seat tube ## Footnote A dry seatpost can also cause creaks

Answer 580

Shorten the seatpost with a hacksaw ## Footnote Ensure at least 3 inches of seatpost remains inserted for security

Answer 581

The inside of the seat tube, the seatpost sizing shims, and the seatpost itself ## Footnote Friction paste can also be used

Answer 582

Check the clamp bolts and lubricate the bolt threads ## Footnote This allows for tighter fastening

Answer 583

Grease the sides of the inner shaft and the elastomers inside ## Footnote This can help reduce squeaking

Answer 584

Tighten the frame binder bolt ## Footnote This is often the simplest solution

Answer 585

Friction paste, also known as carbon assembly paste or spray ## Footnote It is especially useful for carbon seatposts

Answer 586

The seatpost diameter and the condition of the seat-binder lug ## Footnote An incorrect diameter or an oversized seat tube may be the issue

Answer 587

A piece of aluminum from a pop can ## Footnote Cut a 1 × 3-inch piece, grease it, and insert it with the seatpost

Answer 588

Bend the top lip of the shim over ## Footnote Experiment with shim dimensions to find a suitable fit

Answer 589

To increase the life of the seals and the time between fork overhauls ## Footnote Fork boots protect the inner legs from dirt and moisture, reducing wear and tear.

Answer 590

A dry or dirty dust seal rubbing on a dry or dirty inner leg ## Footnote This condition can lead to poor performance and handling.

Answer 591

They rely on wiper seals instead of fork boots to keep dirt out ## Footnote Wiper seals are designed to prevent dirt from entering the lower legs.

Answer 592

It can wear through the hard-anodized surface of the inner leg, leading to permanent performance loss ## Footnote This highlights the importance of maintaining clean seals and inner legs.

Answer 593

Wipe clean the exposed upper tubes and the seal atop each lower leg ## Footnote This helps ensure that dirt does not enter and cause damage.

Answer 594

A thin coat of Teflon-fortified lubricant ## Footnote This lubricant helps reduce friction and wear.

Answer 595

put back into position ## Footnote Proper reinstallation of boots is crucial for continued protection.

Answer 596

Needle-nose pliers ## Footnote This tool helps in fitting the boot correctly around the outer leg.

Answer 597

To straighten a wheel that has a wobble caused by loose spokes.

Answer 598

Replace the rim.

Answer 599

A spoke wrench of the right size for the spoke nipples.

Answer 600

Feel for spokes that are so loose they flop around.

Answer 601

Check if the rim is dented or cracked in that area.

Answer 602

Replace the rim.

Answer 603

The wheel will clunk side to side when flexed.

Answer 604

Check for broken or loose spokes.

Answer 605

In a truing stand or on the bike suspended or upside down.

Answer 606

Tighten the spokes that come from the opposite side of the hub and loosen those from the same side.

Answer 607

Always adjust spokes in pairs.

Answer 608

About one-quarter turn at a time.

Answer 609

You are turning the spokes in the wrong direction.

Answer 610

Twist the spoke in the correction direction, then twist back half as far.

Answer 611

A Y-wrench with hex sockets or a specialty wrench for internal spoke nipples.

Answer 612

Use a special spoke wrench to access them.

Answer 613

Set it to scrape the most out-of-true spot on the wheel.

Answer 614

A certain amount of wobble.

Answer 615

Get a new spoke of the same length and thickness.

Answer 616

The cassette cogs or freewheel.

Answer 617

Use a new nipple.

Answer 618

Tighten it about as snugly as the neighboring spokes.

Answer 619

Tighten just this one spoke until the wheel is true again.

Answer 620

To strung together the rim and allow the wheel to turn freely around the axle ## Footnote Spokes support and align the rim through tension.

Answer 621

Allows the wheel to turn freely around an axle ## Footnote The hub contains bearings that facilitate this movement.

Answer 622

Support for the tire and a braking surface ## Footnote This is crucial for both stability and effective braking.

Answer 623

A rear hub with a built-in freewheel that allows the wheel to spin while coasting ## Footnote It engages when forward force is applied to the pedals.

Answer 624

Replace the rim ## Footnote Cracks can lead to severe consequences while riding.

Answer 625

A marking that shows when the rims have worn too thin ## Footnote This helps prevent rim failure and maintains safety.

Answer 626

At the spoke holes, the valve hole, and the seam ## Footnote These areas are particularly vulnerable to defects.

Answer 627

The tire can force the sidewalls out, causing braking and tire-retention issues ## Footnote This can lead to a dangerous riding situation.

Answer 628

They have markings or small holes that indicate when too much sidewall material has been worn off ## Footnote Some rims have a dark spot or hole that appears when worn.

Answer 629

Severe consequences, potentially leading to accidents ## Footnote Ensuring rim integrity is crucial for rider safety.

Answer 630

To maintain rims, true wheels, overhaul hubs and freehubs, maintain and replace freewheels, and maintain and replace cogs ## Footnote This is covered in Chapter 15.

Answer 631

True ## Footnote These holes indicate that too much sidewall material has been worn off.

Answer 632

A dark hole opposite the valve hole ## Footnote This is also identified by a sticker.

Answer 633

Provide grip and traction for propulsion and steering ## Footnote Tires also serve as the first line of suspension due to the air pressure within them.

Answer 634

Schrader valve and Presta valve ## Footnote Schrader valves are commonly found on car tires, while Presta valves are thinner with a small threaded rod.

Answer 635

Deflate it ## Footnote This is necessary before attempting to remove the tire.

Answer 636

Push down on the valve pin with a thin object ## Footnote Suggested objects include a pen cap or paper clip.

Answer 637

Unscrew the little nut a few turns and push down on the thin rod ## Footnote After deflation, tighten the nut again for riding.

Answer 638

Longer valves or valve extenders ## Footnote Valve extenders are thin, threaded tubes that screw onto Presta valve stems.

Answer 639

Remove the wheel ## Footnote If using a Cannondale Lefty one-legged fork, this step can be skipped.

Answer 640

Push up on the sidewall with your thumbs adjacent to the valve stem ## Footnote This method reduces the risk of damaging the tube and tire.

Answer 641

Insert a tire lever between the rim sidewall and the tire ## Footnote Be careful not to catch the tube under the lever.

Answer 642

Three levers ## Footnote The three-lever method is a tried-and-true approach for difficult tire removals.

Answer 643

Hook the lever onto the nearest spoke or hold it down ## Footnote This helps keep the tire bead in position while using additional levers.

Answer 644

No ## Footnote You only need to remove one side of the tire to access the tube.

Answer 645

Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance

Answer 646

Near the valve stem

Answer 647

Beads of the deflated tire can fall into the dropped center of the rim

Answer 648

The circumference is larger, making it harder to remove the tire

Answer 649

Starting at the valve stem and letting the opposite tire bead fall into the rim valley

Answer 650

It can damage the thin sealing flap along the tire bead

Answer 651

Finish at the valve stem and push up on the valve

Answer 652

It can blow the tire off the rim upon inflation

Answer 653

It can temporarily deafen you

Answer 654

It can strand you with a torn-open tube

Answer 655

Small holes; round patches work for holes smaller than the eraser end of a pencil

Answer 656

Remove it from the tire and inflate it

Answer 657

Inflate until it is two to three times larger than its deflated size

Answer 658

Inflate to 25-50 psi and listen/feel for air leaks

Answer 659

Submerge it in water to look for air bubbles

Answer 660

To ensure better adhesion of the patch

Answer 661

High-quality patch kit with thin, gummy edges

Answer 662

Let the glue dry until there are no shiny, wet spots

Answer 663

Patch the inside of a tubeless tire versus the outside of a tube

Answer 664

They are fast to use and do not require dried-up glue

Answer 665

Check for sharp objects inside the tire

Answer 666

Replace the rim tape

Answer 667

To prevent the tube and tire from adhering to each other

Answer 668

[valve hole in the rim]

Answer 669

Keep some air in the tube

Answer 670

Any part of the tube protruding from under the tire bead

Answer 671

It can blow the tire off the rim

Answer 672

Risk of a pinch flat, or 'snakebite'

Answer 673

Small holes; round patches work for holes smaller than the eraser end of a pencil

Answer 674

Remove it from the tire and inflate it

Answer 675

Inflate until it is two to three times larger than its deflated size

Answer 676

Inflate to 25-50 psi and listen/feel for air leaks

Answer 677

Submerge it in water to look for air bubbles

Answer 678

To ensure better adhesion of the patch

Answer 679

High-quality patch kit with thin, gummy edges

Answer 680

Let the glue dry until there are no shiny, wet spots

Answer 681

Patch the inside of a tubeless tire versus the outside of a tube

Answer 682

They are fast to use and do not require dried-up glue

Answer 683

Check for sharp objects inside the tire

Answer 684

Replace the rim tape

Answer 685

To prevent the tube and tire from adhering to each other

Answer 686

[valve hole in the rim]

Answer 687

Keep some air in the tube

Answer 688

Any part of the tube protruding from under the tire bead

Answer 689

It can blow the tire off the rim

Answer 690

Risk of a pinch flat, or 'snakebite'

Answer 691

The concave or V-shaped scooping edges of the tread blocks should be pointed forward.

Answer 692

The scooping edges should be oriented backward.

Answer 693

An arrow indicating rotation direction.

Answer 694

Hold the tire above your head and look at the tread as the ground sees it.

Answer 695

Braking and driving.

Answer 696

Fit of the bike ## Footnote It is crucial to ensure that the bike fits your body to avoid discomfort.

Answer 697

Your body will protest ## Footnote Riding an ill-fitting bike can lead to discomfort and inefficiency.

Answer 698

A bike without sufficient stand-over clearance ## Footnote Lack of stand-over clearance can lead to discomfort in sensitive areas.

Answer 699

Ensure enough reach ## Footnote Adequate reach helps maintain comfort while riding.

Answer 700

Properly over the wheels ## Footnote Proper weight distribution prevents going over the handlebars on downhill stretches.

Answer 701

Inefficiency and discomfort ## Footnote Riding a bike that does not fit properly affects performance and comfort.

Answer 702

1. Checking your fit at a bike shop 2. Taking body measurements ## Footnote The first method is simple, while the second allows for precise calculations.

Answer 703

False ## Footnote While you may adapt to some aspects, fit is crucial for comfort.

Answer 704

inefficient ## Footnote Efficiency is significantly impacted by bike size.

Answer 705

To ensure that the rider can jump off the bike safely without hitting their crotch.

Answer 706

At least 2 inches off the ground.

Answer 707

* Slope of the top tube * Bottom-bracket height * Manufacturer's frame size measurement methods

Answer 708

* Center-to-center measurement * Center-to-top measurement * Measurement to the top of the seat tube

Answer 709

Consider a bike with 24-inch wheels.

Answer 710

The distance ensuring that your knees do not hit the handlebar while riding.

Answer 711

Check while standing out of the saddle and seated, with the front wheel turned slightly.

Answer 712

That the reach feels comfortable and you can easily grab the brake levers.

Answer 713

Threadless headsets.

Answer 714

A bike with 29-inch wheels.

Answer 715

The risk of your toe hitting the front tire when turning sharply at low speeds.

Answer 716

It can result in the front wheel turning sharply as the feet pass by.

Answer 717

No, because you cannot turn the front wheel sharply enough to hit the foot.

Answer 718

To determine the frame size for a bike.

Answer 719

Stand with feet 2 inches apart and measure from the floor to a level held firmly in your crotch.

Answer 720

The distance from the floor to a mark made by a pencil held horizontally at the jugular notch.

Answer 721

Measure from the lateral tip of the acromion to the wrist bone with the arm at a 45-degree angle.

Answer 722

Subtract 36-42cm from your inseam length.

Answer 723

Use a shorter seat-tube length for sufficient stand-over clearance.

Answer 724

A higher bottom bracket reduces stand-over height, affecting seat-tube length.

Answer 725

Look for a bike with a curved top tube or smaller wheel sizes (26-inch or 24-inch).

Answer 726

Consider bikes with 29-inch wheels.

Answer 727

Subtract inseam from inseam-plus-torso, add to arm length, then multiply by 0.47 to 0.5.

Answer 728

Casual riders use 0.47; aggressive riders use 0.5.

Answer 729

Measure horizontally from the center of the seat tube to the center of the head tube.

Answer 730

Multiply arm-plus-torso length by 0.085 to 0.115.

Answer 731

Tall riders: 180mm or longer; short riders: 170mm or shorter.

Answer 732

To accurately reflect body position while riding.

Answer 733

A frame with a steeply up-angled top tube, where seat-tube length is less relevant.

Answer 734

Saddle height is crucial for achieving a biomechanically efficient pedaling position, ensuring the knee locks without rocking the hips at the bottom of the pedal stroke. ## Footnote Saddle height can be determined by either observing knee position or using inseam measurement multiplied by 1.09.

Answer 735

Saddle setback can be measured by dropping a plumb line from just below the kneecap to the crankarm, ensuring it touches the crankarm or is up to 2cm behind it. ## Footnote This position encourages smooth pedaling and can be adjusted for climbing efficiency.

Answer 736

Handlebar height adjustment depends on flexibility, riding style, overall size, and type of riding preferred. ## Footnote Aggressive riders may prefer lower handlebars, while beginners might favor higher handlebars for comfort.

Answer 737

Start with a 4cm drop for general cross-country riding and adjust based on comfort and performance needs. ## Footnote The drop affects climbing dynamics and wind resistance.

Answer 738

Handlebar reach is subjective and can be assessed by dropping a plumb line from the back of the elbow to ensure it is 2-4cm ahead of the knee when the crankarm is horizontal. ## Footnote It is important to vary reach by changing stem length, not saddle position.

Answer 739

Performance riders should position bar ends between horizontal and 15 degrees up from horizontal. ## Footnote This positioning allows powerful pulling during climbs and a lower seated position.

Answer 740

Casual riders often prefer a higher angle for bar ends, around 45 degrees, to maintain a straight wrist while seated. ## Footnote This angle facilitates comfort while pulling against the bar ends.

Answer 741

Inner bar ends provide support for the shoulders and allow for a more relaxed arm position compared to outer bar ends. ## Footnote They enable a comfortable, aerodynamic position while maintaining brake access.

Answer 742

False. ## Footnote Bar ends are not a solution for poor bike fit; proper adjustments should be made to the bike itself.

Answer 743

To achieve a higher hand position, use a taller or more up-angled stem and/or a higher-rise handlebar. ## Footnote This ensures better steering control and brake accessibility.

Answer 744

[personal preference]. ## Footnote Adjustments should be made based on comfort and efficiency.