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Milady Study Guide > Chpt. 18 - Chemical Texture Services > Flashcards

Chpt. 18 - Chemical Texture Services Flashcards

0
Q

BASE SECTIONS

A

Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section

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1
Q

BASE RELAXERS

A

Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer

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2
Q

BASIC PERM WRAP

A

Perm wrap in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal size bases; all base sections are horizontal with the same length and width as the perm rod.

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3
Q

BOOKEND WRAP

A

Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope

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4
Q

BRICKLAY PERM WRAP

A

Perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row

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5
Q

CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXING

A

Rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form

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6
Q

CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICE

A

Hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair

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7
Q

CONCAVE RODS

A

Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.

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8
Q

CROQUINOLE PERM WRAPS

A

Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped at an angle perpendicular to the perm rod, in overlapping concentric layers.

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9
Q

CURVATURE PERM WRAP

A

Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head

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10
Q

DISULFIDE BONDS

A

Chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms into adjacent protein chains are joined together. disulfide bonds can only be broken by chemicals and cannot be broken by heat or water.

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11
Q

DOUBLE FLAT WRAP

A

Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one is placed over, the strand of hair being wrapped

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12
Q

DOUBLE-ROD (PIGGYBACK) TECHNIQUE

A

Prewrapped in which 2 rods are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other

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13
Q

ENDOTHERMIC WAVES

A

Perm activated by an outside heat source usually a conventional hood-type dryer

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14
Q

EXOTHERMIC WAVES

A

Creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing

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15
Q

GLYCERYL MONOTHIOGLYCOLATE (GMTG)

A

Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions

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16
Q

HALF-OFF BASE PLACEMENT

A

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90° (perpendicular) to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base

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17
Q

HYDROGEN BONDS

A

Week physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat as in thermal styling, and reform as the hair dries or cools

18
Q

HYDROXIDE NEUTRALIZATION

A

The neutralization of hydroxide relaxers is an acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp. hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds

19
Q

HYDROXIDE RELAXERS

A

Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13. the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers

20
Q

LANTHIONIZATION

A

Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; breaks the hairs disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair

21
Q

LOOP or CIRCLE ROD

A

Tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod

22
Q

LOW-pH WAVES

A

Perms that work at a low pH and use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfite as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate

23
Q

METAL HYDROXIDE RELAXERS

A

Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen

24
Q

NO BASE RELAXERS

A

Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream

25
Q

NORMALIZING LOTIONS

A

Conditioners that restore the hairs natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing

26
Q

OFF-BASE PLACEMENT

A

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45° angle below perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned completely off its base

27
Q

ON-BASE PLACEMENT

A

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45° angle beyond perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned on its base section.

28
Q

PEPTIDE BONDS or END BONDS

A

Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains.

29
Q

POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS

A

Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds

30
Q

SALT BONDS

A

Relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electric charges; easily broken by changes in pH as in permanent waving and re-form when the pH returns to normal

31
Q

SIDE BONDS

A

Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together. Side bonds are responsible for the elasticity and incredible strength of the hair.

32
Q

SINGLE FLAT WRAP

A

Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped.

33
Q

SOFT BENDER RODS

A

Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. These soft foam rods have a stiff wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape

34
Q

SOFT CURL PERMANENT

A

Combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on existing curls larger and looser

35
Q

SPIRAL PERM WRAP

A

Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the the length of the rod, similar to the grip on a tennis racket.

36
Q

STRAIGHT RODS

A

Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area.

37
Q

THIOGLYCOLIC ACID

A

Colorless liquid with a strong unpleasant odor; provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions

38
Q

THIO NEUTRALIZATION

A

Stops the action of a permanent waving solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form

39
Q

THIO RELAXERS

A

Use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving but at a higher concentration and the pH above 10

40
Q

THIO-FREE WAVES

A

Perms that use cysteamine or mercaptamine instead of ammonium thioglycolate as the primary reducing agent.

41
Q

TRUE ACID WAVES

A

Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0, require heat to process (endothermic), process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves.

42
Q

WEAVE TECHNIQUE

A

Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.

Milady Study Guide (25 decks)

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