Lecture 15 Flashcards Preview

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Flashcards in Lecture 15 Deck (22):
1

What is another name for backshore?

Supratidal

2

What is another name for foreshore?

Inter-tidal

3

What is another name for nearshore?

Sub-tidal

4

What is surf beat?

Groups of waves larger due to combined wave swells

5

Describe wind waves

High energy short and do most work over longer period of time

6

Define fetch.

The distance of wind blowing long fetch more waves more energy

7

What is the wave motion offshore?

Oscillatory motion

8

Describe wave motion nearshore.

Waves begin to feel the bottom and stand up

9

Where are eddies?

In a wave motion

10

What is a swash zone

Water uprush on a beach

11

What are the 3 main wave modification processes

Refraction
Diffraction
Reflection

12

What is refraction?

Change in direction due to shoaling in shallow water. Waves bend to parallel to the shore. It also focuses erosion on headlands

13

What is diffraction?

Waves bending around objects and recombine constructively and destructively

14

Define wave reflection.

Some incoming wave energy is reflected by steep beaches and sea walls

15

What is a tombolo?

A diffraction landform which is a strip of land connecting mainland to an object-called an isthmus

16

Do shallow beaches dissipate more or less energy steep beaches?

Shallow beaches dissipate more energy

17

Steep beaches reflect _______ energy than shallow beaches

More

18

What factors on a beach dissipate energy?

Sand particle
Beach steepness
Friction
Shoaling
Slope activity

19

Can incoming and reflective waves combine?

Yes destructively and constructively

20

What is a spring tide?

It is the biggest tide occurring because the sun and moon gravitational pull is constructive

21

What is a neap tide?

Sun and moon are perpendicular to eachother causing destructive low tides

22

Are beaches sensitive to changes in climate?

Yes