Chpt. 18 - Chemical Texture Services

Question 0

BASE SECTIONS

Answer 0

Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section

Question 1

BASE RELAXERS

Answer 1

Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer

Question 2

BASIC PERM WRAP

Answer 2

Perm wrap in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal size bases; all base sections are horizontal with the same length and width as the perm rod.

Question 3

BOOKEND WRAP

Answer 3

Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope

Question 4

BRICKLAY PERM WRAP

Answer 4

Perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row

Question 5

CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXING

Answer 5

Rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form

Question 6

CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICE

Answer 6

Hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair

Question 7

CONCAVE RODS

Answer 7

Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.

Question 8

CROQUINOLE PERM WRAPS

Answer 8

Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped at an angle perpendicular to the perm rod, in overlapping concentric layers.

Question 9

CURVATURE PERM WRAP

Answer 9

Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head

Question 10

DISULFIDE BONDS

Answer 10

Chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms into adjacent protein chains are joined together. disulfide bonds can only be broken by chemicals and cannot be broken by heat or water.

Question 11

DOUBLE FLAT WRAP

Answer 11

Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one is placed over, the strand of hair being wrapped

Question 12

DOUBLE-ROD (PIGGYBACK) TECHNIQUE

Answer 12

Prewrapped in which 2 rods are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other

Question 13

ENDOTHERMIC WAVES

Answer 13

Perm activated by an outside heat source usually a conventional hood-type dryer

Question 14

EXOTHERMIC WAVES

Answer 14

Creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing

Question 15

GLYCERYL MONOTHIOGLYCOLATE (GMTG)

Answer 15

Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions

Question 16

HALF-OFF BASE PLACEMENT

Answer 16

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90° (perpendicular) to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base

Question 17

HYDROGEN BONDS

Answer 17

Week physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat as in thermal styling, and reform as the hair dries or cools

Question 18

HYDROXIDE NEUTRALIZATION

Answer 18

The neutralization of hydroxide relaxers is an acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp. hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds

Question 19

HYDROXIDE RELAXERS

Answer 19

Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13. the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers

Question 20

LANTHIONIZATION

Answer 20

Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; breaks the hairs disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair

Question 21

LOOP or CIRCLE ROD

Answer 21

Tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod

Question 22

LOW-pH WAVES

Answer 22

Perms that work at a low pH and use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfite as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate

Question 23

METAL HYDROXIDE RELAXERS

Answer 23

Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen

Question 24

NO BASE RELAXERS

Answer 24

Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream

Question 25

NORMALIZING LOTIONS

Answer 25

Conditioners that restore the hairs natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing

Question 26

OFF-BASE PLACEMENT

Answer 26

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45° angle below perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned completely off its base

Question 27

ON-BASE PLACEMENT

Answer 27

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45° angle beyond perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned on its base section.

Question 28

PEPTIDE BONDS or END BONDS

Answer 28

Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains.

Question 29

POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS

Answer 29

Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds

Question 30

SALT BONDS

Answer 30

Relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electric charges; easily broken by changes in pH as in permanent waving and re-form when the pH returns to normal

Question 31

SIDE BONDS

Answer 31

Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together. Side bonds are responsible for the elasticity and incredible strength of the hair.

Question 32

SINGLE FLAT WRAP

Answer 32

Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped.

Question 33

SOFT BENDER RODS

Answer 33

Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. These soft foam rods have a stiff wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape

Question 34

SOFT CURL PERMANENT

Answer 34

Combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on existing curls larger and looser

Question 35

SPIRAL PERM WRAP

Answer 35

Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the the length of the rod, similar to the grip on a tennis racket.

Question 36

STRAIGHT RODS

Answer 36

Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area.

Question 37

THIOGLYCOLIC ACID

Answer 37

Colorless liquid with a strong unpleasant odor; provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions

Question 38

THIO NEUTRALIZATION

Answer 38

Stops the action of a permanent waving solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form

Question 39

THIO RELAXERS

Answer 39

Use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving but at a higher concentration and the pH above 10

Question 40

THIO-FREE WAVES

Answer 40

Perms that use cysteamine or mercaptamine instead of ammonium thioglycolate as the primary reducing agent.

Question 41

TRUE ACID WAVES

Answer 41

Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0, require heat to process (endothermic), process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves.

Question 42

WEAVE TECHNIQUE

Answer 42

Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.